Glad you had a good trip Virginia!

I'm glad it all worked out for you. I look forward to reading more.

Baan Rai Lanna...now *there* is a place I haven't heard mentioned in a LONG time!

We stayed there on our very first trip to Asia in 2006, shortly after an expat Brit named Scott had opened it. It was amazing then--but it switched owners later on and subsequently I heard it had gone downhill. But, looking at more recent TripAdvisor reviews--and from your description--it seems that things have gotten much better.

So happy to hear you liked it! Can't wait to hear more about your trip.

Thanks!
filmwill- BRL was a wonderful surprise. It was a last minute decision and a shot in the dark, based solely on how far we wanted to drive that day. It was updated, peaceful, clean and had a lovely setting with an infinity pool so inviting we delayed our morning departure to enjoy it. Breakfast was included, but non-descript. Staff was lovely, too.

we enjoyed meeting you for that brief breakfast (BTW, no cost to me, as we encountered problems there and they eliminated all food charges).

anxious to read your detailed report
bob

Chapter I-Chiang Mai: our pick-up from the airport by Baan Orapin went smoothly with the exception of confusion that we were arriving domestic, not international. Taken to Baan Orapin and oriented. We went for lunch down the street at The Gallery-great setting on the river with good food. Took a nap, went to the pool and then, to friend's for dinner. Day 2, we walked around the old city, visiting a few wats and took a songthaew to Doi Suthep. We met up with relatives, also in Thailand on vacation, at River Market Restaurant for a glorious meal. Day 3 was spent at Siam Rice Thai Cookery School in a day of cooking with a great, small group, delicious food and good instruction. Day 4 was spent at Thai Elephant Home (small, well organized day of bareback riding, mud baths and swimming with the elephants) and Duke's for dinner. Day 5 was an "easy" day recovering from our elephant experience and shopping around at The Healing Arts Center, Sop Moi Arts, and to the Northern School for the Blind for massages. For lunch, we took a taxi to Talat Thanim Market (pg. 268 Lonely Planet). The early evening was spent at Monk Chat at Wat Suan Dok and meeting friends at Ginger for dinner-we were under-whlemed with the service.

Chapter IIa: The North: Day 1-Flew to Mae Hong Son via Kan Air in a small plane with great mountain views and a dramatic landing. We were met by our guide, Charlie -asianwaytours@hormail.com, and the 11 seater van and driver. What a lovely way to go! We checked into Fern Resort (beautiful) with great accommodations right along the water on one side with rice fields on the other. We met about our itinerary and off we went. Starting off with a delicious lunch at Fern Restaurant, we visited the temples in Mae Hong Son near the lake, visited a mud "spa" and did a facial and went into the mineral waters (great views), ate dinner at the night stalls and bought a lantern and sent it off near the lake and the night market. The next day, we went to Mae Surin waterfall, to see the Mexican sunflowers in bloom in the surrounding mountains and to the newly rebuilt WWII museum-Khun Yuam Near Mae Hong Son. It had not "officially" reopened, and was pristine and well organized, with English info and a good video. We then returned to MHS and regret that we didn't just go back to Fern Resort and have a relaxing dinner there and maybe a swim. We went back to the market for dinner and walked around a little, but were tired.

More soon-sorry this is taking so long, but through jet lag, we returned back to work...

take your time, we love the story

Chapter IIb: The North Day 3, 4, 5: Mae Hong Son to Mae Salong: We visited Pha Sua Waterfall and the Tham Pla Fish Cave. We fed the fish at both places and hiked around Tham Pla--nice hike, but watch your step. The Coffin Caves were then reached by a hike up a long ladder and then, some more rock climbing. The coffin remains are remarkable--about 2,500 years old. We checked into Soppong River Inn, which is very dimly lit at night. It's beautiful and the rooms were nice, but small. The walkways were slick. Soppong closes up early, so an early dinner is necessary. We had a good dinner at Soppong River Inn. Next day, we went to Mae La Na to the diamond cave. On the way, we saw Shan children in traditional clothing (every Friday) working in the fields at their school. Our guide was required to hire a local guide to take us to that cave. Tham Lod caving was done in a bamboo raft, again separately guided, with optional hikes. Passed through Pai, eating at Na's Kitchen (very reasonable and good) with some falafel from the kabob place across the street. We traveled, evening time, in the dark, through twisted roads to Mae Taeng and stayed at Baan Rai Lanna Resort-lovely bungalows with infinity pool. After a relaxing morning in the pool, we went to Chiang Dao, the cave with lots of buddhas and a easy path. At Tha Thom, we drove up to the Temple, which is new at 9 years old, with lovely viewpoints. Then, on to Mae Salong, checking into Little Home Guesthouse (small, clean rooms, well-located for the early morning market, but noisy). Dinner was at a Chinese restaurant.

sounds very backwater, but interesting... lots of bug problems?

"Backwater"? Please explain. No bug problems, but our clothes were treated & we were conscientious with repellent. Also, used mosquito netting as provided.

backwater=less travelled

ahhh... Yes, we were on the roads less traveled, but not heavily trekking, per se. It was excellent to have our guide and driver and local ones, as needed. Charlie was great, showing us hilltribe villages where he had family that were not on the tourist path and restaurants where locals ate, etc.

i'll continue to enjoy 4-5* and travel with you thru fodors, etc.

Well, in an effort to make this the best trip report, it has not gotten done. So, I am going to quickly finished and will happily fill in details as needed.
North Day 6: Little Home Guesthouse was clean and very basic. Unfortunately, it was noisy, so sleep. The restaurant, though, looked as though it would be good. It was conveniently located for one to hop out of bed and go down to the market at 6AM (it only goes to 8) and enjoy some warm goat's milk and fried "donuts"--delicious, enjoying sunrise. There were tribespeople from surrounding districts and a colorful market display, including pig's heads, etc. Later in the day, we stopped at a market in the southern end of town that goes all day. Afterwards, we walked to a fuller breakfast. Charlie then took us to hike up 718 steps to Wat Santikhiri for great views. Then we visited a tea salon and the fields of tea were a lovely sight. We had tea buns, etc., and tasted a variety of teas.

Prior to the tea plantation, Charlie took us to a quiet village where we saw rice being dried and shafted and peanuts drying, etc., with grandmothers holding swaddled babies. We also stopped at a agricultural residential high school, saw children fishing in the stream and had lunch at their cafe with food locally produced. We helped plant some seedlings.

Wanna cry..

?!? PaganiPilot. I think I will ignore your comment and move forward.

Sorry that wasnt intended for ur post

We went to DoiTung Royal Villa and the Mae Fah Luang Botanical Gardens. The ceiling in the building covered with the constellations was wonderful! The gardens, orchids and bamboo walkway were exquisite. Then onward to Chiang Rae and to a night market (with good evening entertainment) and the Clock Tower-great light show in the evening. Designed by White Temple artist. Stayed at Baan Soontree-nice suite, pool, good breakfast.

North Day 7: Charlie was not available this day and we hired another guide who took us to three different hilltribe villages-lieu, Lahu and Karen (not long-necked). We played with, and brought some supplies and snacks, to children whose teacher had not appeared that day. At the Lisu village, lunch was prepared for us in the village. Visited the White Temple and back to the night market.

North Day 8: Charlie provided a driver for us who took us to Wat Phra Kaew, the Black House, and Chiang Saen. We climbed to the Temple ruins and had a nice lunch overlooking the Mekong River. Being in the area, we made a brief stop at the Golden Triangle overlook. We met Charlie for a great dinner along the waterfront in Chiang Rai.

Bangkok Day 14 of the trip: Flight to Bangkok went without issues. Ratt, our guide, met us at the airport and off we went! First stop, lunch at Jim Thompson House and visit there. Wat Pho, Wat Arun, canal boat ride with the driver's daughter and her school friends, dinner at the night market, and rest at Evergreen Place, where we would be for 3 nights. Good apartment, although we were promised 2 twin beds in the second bedroom and they only had one with a double, so we had to get a cot for the living area as no other suites were available.

Day 15: took 1/2 day tour proveded by hotel to Grand Palace. Guide was good, but jewelry factory tour was not appreciated. Beware. Lunch at pleasant riverside Indian restaurant. We were given inaccurate information the the barge museum was closed by the guide, making it so we went back with them and to the factory... Great massages followed and fabulous dinner in Chinatown after a nighttime ferry ride to see Bangkok lit up.

Day 16: Day trip to Ayutthaya with Ratt was great. Hot, but amazing ruins made it worth withstanding the heat. Used the audio guide some. Ratt took us to a great lunch and, later, to the floating market "mall"-not quite what we had hoped for. Tried to get to the Skybar upon our return to Bangkok and were denied entry because, although we we wearing skirts, we had open-toed sandals which were unacceptable... Had quick, cheap dinner and went to bed.

Singapore- 4 days. Prior to flying to Singapore, we had a quick, wonderful meetup and coffee with fellow Fodorite, Bob (rhkkmk )and his wife, who had helped us plan so much of this trip. It was a treat to spend a too-short visit with them!

Day 1: Great foot massage at the airport again. Our dear friend, who lives in Singapore, met us at the airport. After checking into the Marriott, she took us to a hawker center for a great, enormous amount of food (dumplings, skewers, veggie rolls, roti, fried noodles) and walked around downtown, business area and waterfront, marveling at the lights, helix bridge, casino, etc.. Very pretty, modern city-state abounds.

Day 2: small hawker area for breakfast near the Marriott for some local fare and Singapore's national breakfast-kaya toast- a thick concoction of fresh eggs, coconut milk and sugar, infused with the heady scent of pandan leaves, kaya is served slathered between crisp slices of toast that hide a generous chunk of salted butter. Balancing out the calories are one or two soft-boiled eggs, drizzled with dark soya sauce and white pepper, all washed down with a cup of strong coffee. Then, we went to the Singapore Botanical Gardens with an abundant orchid display.

we wish we had more time to talk with you...

enjoying the report

Love this virginiafish! Your choices interest me a lot. I'm thinking about Thailand for next winter, and your style of traveling seems similar to mine - or, as rhkkmk said, "backwater"!

I'm thinking of Bangkok/northern Thailand/Angkor Wat for next year, and many of the places you went sound wonderful. Is there anything you would do differently if you went back?

Thanks for this!

Paule

Paule,
OMG! I am sitting here with the Lonely Planet India Guidebook. It is on our list for travel soon. I will read your trip report.
Your question is one on which we need to ponder. It may be good if we could talk.

Virginiafish,
That would be great. You can email me at paulesue@gmail.com and we can talk sometime.
Paule