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Old Apr 11th, 2009, 02:54 AM
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Tokyo by a nerd who loves museums, art galleries and amusement parks.

A light hearted trip report on Tokyo.
Here is an abridged account of my 12 day trip to Tokyo last year. I had an overnight stay in Taiwan. I loved every minute of my stay, even getting lost! This account is reported from the view of a nerdy middle aged woman on a tight budget who loves museums, art galleries and amusement parks so keep that in mind if it’s not your idea of a holiday! This was my first solo trip.
I stayed at the Aizuya Inn, 2-17-2 Kiyokawa, Taito-ku, in the smallest room you can imagine and sleeping on mats on the floor but I found it all surprisingly comfortable and ‘freeing’. Very cheap at under $50 Au a night. Had it not been for the financial crisis, it would have only been about $35 Au. It did have a TV and air conditioning and I highly recommend it and its friendly staff. I have no wonderful recommendations for fine dining as the trip was done on the cheap and I mostly ate at the 7/11 with the occasional authentic meal, including some genuine Japanese Maccas.

Taiwan airport
I slept reasonably well at Taiwan Airport. It was very bright. The lights overhead had an interrogation feel to them. It was a bit noisy too. You know the story - the old guy shouting into his mobile phone because he still can't believe that anyone in the next town can hear him through this wireless contraption so he had better talk extra loud so they can hear him even without the phone! Me and several other transetters bunkered down on surprisingly comfortable padded benches and slept as best we could. Next morning I observed another old guy pull out a hospital type urinal and go off and empty it. Glad I didn't see him use it! Obviously a prostate sufferer as the toilets were a 30 second walk away! Had a delicious chocolate biscuit breakfast and booked in for the flight to Tokyo.

As I get older the actual travelling/airport thing is getting less appealing. I feel more like just sitting down rather than lugging all my stuff around everywhere I go. No matter how little you try to pack, all your stuff becomes an albatross around your neck very quickly.

Oh hang on - my love of airports has just been revived! I have just spotted a lovely Chang Kai Chek and Madam Chang Kai Chek wedding day coffee mug. Now that's something you can't get back in Australia!

Those Wacky Japanese!
Day One begins and I don't know where to begin my sightseeing so I think I will just stay in and watch TV. Only kidding, but Japanese TV is everything I hoped it would be. Those wacky Japanese!

On one show that I watched, two plump guys were standing next to a fridge. After stripping to their underpants, they had to take out a frozen solid jacket and jeans and somehow put them on! Further humiliations ensued for the hapless pair usually involving food and trying to impress women, all rated by a panel of attractive celebrities. Hilarious!

Show two was some sort of a guessing contest. Four people started off with Guess the Weight of my Steak in ounces. That was the easy part. After that it was ` Eel or no Eel `where contestants had to guess what they were eating though the audience knew it was Eel but cleverly disguised by various cooking methods. In between, the contestants were forced to drink a mysterious liquid that resembled urine. Anyone that got sick lost valuable points. After that they had to eat some sort of a mushroom. At least I think that is what is was, as , in its uncooked state it resembled a penis. All this occasioned much joking and mirth among the contestants though some did look a little flustered when they found out what they had actually eaten. The contest closed with the contestants picking a card from a box with a picture of an aging pop star, usually Japanese though the only woman got Michael Jackson, and then doing an impression of the pictured celebrity. No one scored on that one. Hilarious!

But my favourite was a team of male celebrities wearing women’s wigs and bright, tight jumpsuits with cute little satin skirts who had to sneak into someone’s booby trapped bathroom without setting off the alarms and getting caught. If they did, which was usual, a fat man dressed as a giant pussycat leaped out on them and licked their ears or pretended to maul their genitals. This caused much laughter and some trepidation amongst the celebrities. Hilarious! After that, they had to sneak into various other rooms, all without alerting the giant catman. I kid you not! You couldn't make this sort of thing up now, could you! I have pictures to prove it for all you doubters out there.

I also briefly observed that, as I had been told , no one eats or blows their nose in public as this is considered very impolite, though I did see a teenage schoolboy blow his nose on the subway, But I guess that as teenage boys are not yet considered human in any society ,that was OK.
However, everyone sleeps on the train so I guess that is perfectly acceptable.

Well, after writing this, I think I may go to another museum on day 2.

Polite society and Japanese manners
Day 3 and I am off to Disneyland. I have had a great day visiting the Natural History and Western Art museum. ( Ueno Park area)

I am still observing the niceties of Japanese society. It certainly does seem to be that no one eats in public. At one stage I was starving and could not find where to eat and my sandwiches were burning a hole in my pocket. I finally found an outdoor spot where one couple were picnicing though every one around them just seemed to be sitting. Just to be certain my barbarian ways did not offend, I ate quickly with my back to the general populace. Just when I thought that I would never see it, I observed a well dressed man eating some chocolate on the train! Obviously some anarchic rebel out to corrupt society. But it was a quiet revolution as he was at the back of the train and certainly not making a big show of thumbing his nose at the rest of the world! However, I finally saw a teenage girl eat a WHOLE lunch on the train! She did look like the type of girl who really didn't care for the niceties of polite society.

I saw a couple of Japanese men with a sign saying Workers of the World Unite! Back on the train I wanted to get up and shout Eaters of the World Unite! but thought better of it. As half the train was asleep, I didn't want to cause alarm.

Disneyland is NOT the happiest place on earth!
Me and Disneyland are destined to be a bit of a failure though-First Paris with the transport strike then Tokyo. Oh, I got there this time OK but it rained! You think everyone would go home but they didn’t! As it’s pretty crowded anyway, I left early rather than line up in the rain. But I did get to go on my favourite ride Pirates of the Caribbean twice which has amazing animatronics. All complete with a sulky looking Johnny Depp look alike signing autographs! What could be better!

Asimo
Miraikan Science-- National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation Nippon Kagaku Miraikan

Saw Asimo the robot today! He truly is amazing. You almost think there must be a person inside! The rest of the interactive science museum was a bit of a let down as it was all in Japanese with little English so I indulged in a lot of indiscriminate button pushing - as you do- and still only managed to work the interactive floor plan. I should have collared one of the many school children there as they would have known what to do. But it was all worth it seeing Asimo. I got there early and stood at the front of the stage so I would get a great view of him. I began to wonder where everyone else was until an attendant motioned to me to move back and I saw I was standing out like a shag on a rock with a large crowd behind me standing behind another barrier and all getting a great view of my back! Talk about embarrassment!

I then went to the Maritime Museum ( a short walk away) which had some excellent models and displays but again all in Japanese. The building itself is amazing. Shaped like a huge ship. Rather a flash foyer too, resembling a luxury liner. Complete with an out-of-place, moth-eaten stuffed dog!

I am eating well at the 7/11. I have a salad every day and at least 2 packets of mini donuts. Just discovered a great meal - Beef curry in a plastic pack for a $1Au! Not bad either so I guess I will be eating a lot of that.

I am on friendly terms with the police here. There are two police stations in this street and we give each other a friendly nod as I pass. It’s a great idea here that the police stations are right on the street and the officers are often standing right outside. Should do that in Australia.

Kerry and the Tokyo police


Well another episode to add to my novel’s longest chapter on my run-ins with the police. I am now officially known to the Tokyo police who have my name, address and age on record. However, I hasten to add I have done nothing wrong. I passed by an old man lying in a car park who I suspected was drunk but decided to tell the police in case he was hurt. After doing my best impression of a drunk for the three officers at the local station, one policeman asked me to show him where the victim was and, as this officer was unusually, a great deal bigger than me, I trailed after with him, all the while trying to look very smiley in case anyone thought I was being arrested. As it turned out the old man was hurt though not badly, and another officer was already on the scene. The police officer asked for my name, telephone number and my age, which he first wrote down rather flatteringly as 45 rather than 55. After this, he bowed to me and then saluted me! I bowed and saluted back rather awkwardly before going on my way. Since then I discovered that he was not so much impressed with my civic mindedness as just very polite as I was also saluted after asking directions of other police officers!

After this, I got horribly lost and sat down in a small playground to collect myself. Looking over, I saw a man sitting on a bench holding in his arms, a white cat , just like it was a baby, which was lying on its back and looking up at the man with adoring eyes as he stroked it. Very cute so I took a photo. Then I saw a pet shop with a cage full of cheerful Aussie Budgies chattering away, so much heartened by these lovely sights, I went on. The Japanese seem to love animals and you can see every breed of dog from French Poodles to Welsh Corgies. It occurred to me that there is no racism between dogs and people. Admiring someone’s pet is also a great way to meet people!

I had a wonderful time at the MOT or Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo (Tokyo-to Gendai Bijutsukan) ,when I finally found it. I particularly liked photographer Shimabuku`s work such as "Tour Of Europe With One Eyebrow Shaved Off" where he explained that he shaved off one eyebrow in the London Underground then toured Europe, shocking many people but also making many friends. His short film" Then I Decided To Give A Tour of Tokyo to an Octopus from Akashi “was a tour de force. He caught the octopus, put it in a plastic bag, took him on an all expenses paid , reserved seating, no smoking railroad ride to all the tourist hot spots in Tokyo. Unfortunately people he met wanted to eat the octopus. But after introducing it to a local Tokyo octopus that the seller warned was very high spirited (unlike the octopus from Akashi), he eventually released it back into the wild. Some of the art was far less comprehensible so I was not surprised to read a previous comment on the gallery in the guest book from a Japanese visitor-"I couldn't understand it". Obviously he hadn’t been to too many modern art galleries as they all like that.

I next went to the Bridgestone Art Collection which was one of the best small collections I have ever seen. A must see as it has a bit of everything from Egyptian antiquities to French Impressionism. But all paled into insignificance compared to the wonderful toilets. The electronic panel next to the toilet boasted pre recorded flushing sounds where you could adjust the volume to very loud, presumably to disguise the sound of actually going to the toilet. The heated seat was comfortably warm but best of all was the inbuilt bidet where you could control the water pressure. The strongest jet of water was- how can I put this delicately- somewhat intimate, some might say intrusive, in its intensity and direction. I could barely keep myself from laughing out loud but tried very hard not to, as even the loudest setting of the pre recorded flushing noise would not have drowned me out once I started! I have actually seen some very clever toilet ideas here in Tokyo but this took the cake. However, there is another gallery I have yet to see which the guide book says has a toilet designed by some famous artist which is a must to see, so I am looking forward to that one!

Just been watching some more wacky Japanese TV. The show is called Macho Ado about Love where a group of men dressed as women try to win a date with an attractive, real girl. Presumably they are trying to prove that even dressed as women, they are still macho. The men are already behind the eight ball as far as looks go but combine blond ringlets, French maid outfits, Little House on the Prairie bonnets with beards and five o clock shadows, and well- its none too pretty!All of this is accompanied by much laughter, joking and guwaffing gufawing? (Spell checker now working-it is guffawing!) Wish I could speak Japanese so I could get the jokes! It seems to be hilarious here to cross dress though the dressing up is less Drag Queen and more Pantomime Dame.

Anyway, that is about all for now. I have just discovered there is a 100 yen shop nearby so I am going to check that out tomorrow where I hope to be in discount heaven.

Looking for La La land
I am still on good terms with the police. They seemed pleased to see me this arvo. I stopped and shook hands with the smiling officer on duty before heading off to yet another museum. I still haven't done any shopping yet. I was told there was a good 100 yen shop at La La land or rather La La Terrace but I am yet to find it.

Kerry finds happiness in La La land.
Well, I found LaLa Land so I will be bringing home do-dads, knick knacks and assorted wigwams for gooses bridles for you all . At last ! Shops as I know them!


Another Day, Another Museum.
Saw two beautiful gardens yesterday. Hama Rikyu Garden Koishikawa Korakuen Garden - I can certainly see why the Japanese are famous for them! Both are well worth seeing.

One museum, the Fukagawa Edo Museum, had a full scale mock up of a street in Tokyo 150 years ago. There was an animatronics cat on one of the roofs who kept on letting out a most plaintive cry every so often - a bit disconcerting but added to the realism of the place.

Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum .I had a great time at the architectural museum today. They have moved houses there that have cultural or style significance, mostly from the 30s to 50s and its like being able to wander through someone’s' private home when they are out and have a stick beak. Very interesting!

Everywhere here in Tokyo, they play lively little tunes- at the station, in the shops, when you cross the road etc. But last night as I was crossing the street, the signal tune that is was safe to cross was that old ‘Japanese favourite’ - Coming Through The Rye! Sure beats those beeps we have at home so blind people know when to cross! Some of the tunes are so catchy .There is one they play at the 7/11 and sometimes I just want to dance up the aisle between the biscuits and the packaged noodles! I did find at Disneyland that the relentless cheery tunes did get a bit depressing, especially lining up in the rain. Disneyland is definitely not the happiest place on earth then!

Out of it with the in crowd
After a cheerful exchange of waves to the police as I passed, I had a wonderful time visiting Mt Fuji. Magnificent! And it was only one of the 60 days a year where you got a clear view so I was very fortunate. Beautiful cruise on a volcanic lake and amazing cable car ride too. Lovely autumn colour here that was not yet in Tokyo. It would be criminal not to take a day trip to Mt Fuji!

On the way the guide told a joke about the Japanese Prime minister .He spoke no English and practiced saying -"Hello ,How are you ?" -when he was to meet Bill Clinton, then president. He was told Bill would say -"Very Well" and the Japanese Prime minister was to reply "Me too". But instead the Japanese PM asked -"WHO are you?" Bill jokingly replied- "Oh, I am Hilary s husband" -to which the Japanese Pm enthusiastically said- "Me Too!"

We also passed a dog park where Tokyoites take their dogs for a romp and, if you are in an apartment and can't have one, you can hire a dog by the hour for about $7! Great idea - I think I might start a small business and hire out my dog Amy! Cut rate for a naughty dog, maybe? I'd like to hire my cats out too but not sure if there would be much demand.

I went to a popular shopping center last night. It was surreal! I felt like I had stumbled into an MTV Music Video! Everyone was uber hip and trendy. It's like an extreme sport here to be super cool - I was a middle aged frump surrounded by pop stars and rock gods. I sat in McDonalds where fortunately at least the staff still looked like your average teenager but the toilets had been transformed into a hairdressing salon for teenage Lolitas and I felt really disoriented and out of place. Then a sweet little old Japanese Granny and Grandpa walked in and I knew I had not been transported to another, more superstar world. Or had I? Anything can happen in a music clip. I am off to more shops later where I hope I will be able to buy less trendy items. So far, most women’s' accessories seem to be trimmed with cat fur! Where do the old people shop!

The subway is quite involved and very tiring. If people are not endlessly playing MP3s, PSPs and Ipods , they are sleeping! I propped up a schoolboy yesterday who was sound asleep on his feet. If I hadn't stood where I was, he would have fallen over!

The Thunder Dolphin-Scarier than it sounds!
Well my last day in Tokyo and I decided to do something major and ride the huge rollercoaster here known as the Thunder Dolphin. Now I know that doesn't sound as terrifying as say, the Thunder Tiger or Thunder Dragon or some other more macho name but believe me it looked terrifying! Its unusual in that it is part of a shopping complex in the Tokyo Dome. You walk into the shopping mall and look up high - very, very high, above you and there it is. It also goes right through the centre of a giant Ferris wheel, apparently the only one of its kind that has no centre hub. What turns it around beats me. I nearly chickened out but, when I saw some older people than me front up, well, I couldn't resist the challenge! It was not nearly as scary as I thought it would be and, if it hadn't been so expensive, I would have had another ride. But at about $15 Au for about 15 seconds of exhilaration, it was a bit much to spend more money on. What I liked was that the attendants do a little dance and cheered you off when it started and then applauded when you returned!

It’s a small world. On my last day at the hostel, I am sitting next to an Asian girl whose Aunt is living in my hometown of Wollongong and a young guy and his mother just left who also come from Wollongong!
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Old Apr 11th, 2009, 06:09 AM
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Great report. Your frolicking nature came through loud and clear. While I cannot wrap my mind around 7-11 dining, your adventures were exhilerating. Thanks.
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Old Apr 11th, 2009, 07:45 AM
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Actually Gpanda you would be surprised at the quality of the foods in the Japanese version of the 7/11. Unlike the frozen/microwave US version, there are some in the rural areas and tourist towns that will stock all kinds of fresh/home made style comfort foods along with the frozen food stuffs we are all used to. The Japan 7-11's are great stops for simple meals especially if you are on a budget or traveling by yourself throughout Japan.

Love your report! Thank you for taking the time. It is good to see Japan through another set of eyes and you are obviously the observer. We also tend to people watch....I could(and have)spend hours doing so.

I tire easily of going through a museum in Japan because of the lack of English but after all you are in Japan.....I wish they would have more English signage around.....oh well. Thanks again, loved it!

Aloha!
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Old Apr 11th, 2009, 07:21 PM
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Thanks for the report. We're heading to Japan in a few days and are also going to Tokyo Disney as well as the Miraikan - we're hoping to see Asimo!
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Old Apr 11th, 2009, 09:27 PM
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Note for LMGSONIC on Asimo included below.

Thank you Gpanda, LMGSONIC and Hawaiiantraveler,
I hesitated for some time before posting a report as my travel style is more backpacker and my experiences seemingly quite different from most other Fodorites but, like Jayc, wanted to give back a little for the help I have received. I have just read a report by ekscrunchy with her glorious descriptions of food and know that I cannot match that. I am on a disability pension and, by necessity, must travel on a very tight budget. As my philosophy has always been to have as much possible fun on as little possible money, it has not been too much of a hardship for me! I appreciate your kind comments and feel heartened to post more reports, possibly on previous trips if they are not outdated. I hope to go to Shanghai later this year and will try to post on that trip. I will be there for about 2 weeks as the nature of my disability means I must take things slowly with time off in-between. It will be on a similar budget, I’m afraid but I have yet to be in an exotic place I didn’t love no matter what the circumstances!

I agree wholeheartedly on the quality of the food at the 7/11 in Japan. The produce was very fresh and delicious, even the simple fare I ate. I was not staying in a touristy area and found that freshly prepared nutritious meals both Japanese and Western style and largely purchased by the locals, could be bought very reasonably and heated by the obliging staff.

I had wanted to go to Japan for many years, ever since my Grandmother went 40 years ago and loved it, but I had always thought it would be way beyond my finances. I have Japanese relatives by marriage and friends previously living in Japan who convinced me that it could be done even more cheaply than many European cities and I have traveled to Europe very cheaply indeed! Using the Internet has really widened my horizons as it is now possible to find some incredible bargains in accommodation and other necessities. Plus the Fodor’s web site and forum is wonderful and I recommend it to all my traveling friends regardless of their budgets.
Thanks again, everyone!

Just a note for LMGSONIC. I saw Asimo at the Miraikan but with a quick search it seems he is also at the Honda Welcome Plaza . Apparently there are 46 of them! All ready to take over the world soon? See the Wikipedia extract below. But he does get around a bit so check his official web page at http://asimo.honda.com/Events.aspx under TRAVELS .
I found him unmissable. (Us Nerds love robots and I do own two robotic vacuum cleaners but I really want a robot cook. If the price drops, I’m in!) He was one of the main reasons I went to Tokyo so track him down if you can. You will also enjoy the films on other robots too. The child/toddler robot was particularly enchanting!
Wikepedia.As of February 2009, there are over 100 ASIMO units in existence.[3] Each one costs just under $1 million (¥106,710,325 or €638,186 or £504,720) to manufacture,[4] and some units are available to be hired out for $166,000 (¥17,714,316 or €105,920 or £83,789) per year.[5]
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Old Apr 12th, 2009, 02:20 AM
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Hi Kerry, I found your trip report interesting to read. I am considering travelling to Japan this year or next and wondered what it would be like to travel on my own. I am a 35 year old Aussie woman, who doesn't speak a word of Japanese. I have spent time in London and New York on my own and didn't feel worried at all, although I spoke the language there and didn't go out at night. How did you feel travelling on your own and not knowing the language?

Like you, I tend to eat from cheap places like supermarkets when travelling to save money.

Did you have any problems with the language, or getting around? (this is my first time on the Japanese board) Are all the street names and subway stations purely in Japanese script, or do some of them have signs written in English style script? I didn't have problems in France or Italy, but at least the words are easy to read.

Who did you fly with? I notice Jetstar often have cheap flights to Japan.
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Old Apr 12th, 2009, 05:00 AM
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KerryAJ - thank you for such a great report! We have similar travel styles and chuckled at some of the same experiences ie eating in public (we did the same thing you did!), the 100-yen store and the uber-trendiness of the Tokyo young. You've also given us some good things to check out next time we visit there.

And yes, please post more trip reports if you can. I too hesitate to post my Asia trip reports as we don't travel in the style like a majority of the folks here. Reading your thoughts about what you are experiencing is fun and encouraging. Thanks again.
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Old Apr 12th, 2009, 09:01 AM
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Thank you for the additional information on Asimo, as well as the other information in your report. It's nice to read reports from budget travelers - we need more reports like that so there's a balance of information on Fodors.

We travel at a step above backpacking - we tend to stay in very inexpensive hotels (but not hostels), and we generally try to eat very cheaply so we can spend a little more on sightseeing and souvenirs, so we will be seeing a lot of the 7-11's, Lawsons, and department store basements in Japan! Glad to hear there is yummy and healthy food to be had there.
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Old Apr 12th, 2009, 09:41 AM
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Thank you bkk95!

Hi Speckles,

I would have no hesitation in traveling to Tokyo on my own again. A very safe city - which is what one might expect from a city with a police station practically on every corner! Check out the modern architecture of one station at Ueno Park.

I cannot speak any Japanese either. I did attempt to learn a few polite phrases but I have little talent for languages so relied on bowing a lot in order to appear polite. I was surprised at how few Westerners and fellow tourists I saw. Just a handful a day at mainly tourist places but I really enjoy the differences. Contrary to what I expected, I personally didn't meet too many Japanese people who spoke English but I still find that a friendly, respectful demeanor works wonders as far as communication.

The subway is excellent with signs in English and Japanese. Colour coded and as easy to navigate as in London. The hardest part was knowing which entrance to use when emerging from the underground. Even when I had been to the same place several times, I still got confused after I got off the train. I was told a compass might have proved useful but the railway staff often pointed me in the right direction. I did get lost a lot but this in no way ruined my experience. I just made sure that I allowed plenty of time getting from place to place. One thing that is difficult is that the street numbers are not sequential but rather are numbered at the time of construction. Even the taxi drivers (many of whom now have GPS) couldn't find the address of a church that I wanted to go to. Fortunately I had a phone number and rang ahead. One of the congregation stood outside and flagged the taxi down. But all the main tourist attractions are all clearly signposted in English plus the hostel staff were very helpful. I am assuming you will find similar help wherever you stay.

The police are very helpful too. At one of the many ubiquitous stations everywhere, which I mistook for a railway information booth, the obliging officer even crossed the street and waited with me so I would get on the right bus. No signs of any police brutality here!

Like you, I avoid going out late at night in a city I don't know as I learnt from a trip to LA that you can easily wander into a risky neighborhood if you are unfamiliar with the area. But I chose Tokyo as my first solo trip because I was confident that, by using common sense, I would be quite safe. I may be a big girl of 55 but my 75 year old parents still see me as a little girl! Assuring them that the city had a reputation for low crime helped ease their concerns.

I flew China Airlines which is based in Taiwan as Jetstar were not flying directly into Tokyo in October last year. I think Jetstar would be the way to go now as I have noticed they have some excellent specials. If you have not done so already, sign up for their email newsletter to get the best deals as soon as they come out.

A bit more on catching a taxi. I usually take the subway in any city I am, but on only my 2nd night in Tokyo, I wanted to go to a church which I thought was near the Australian Embassy. A friendly fellow Aussie from the Embassy persuaded penny-pinching me to get a taxi. I rarely use taxis anywhere so wondered if there was a taxi rank or depot nearby. I wandered into a shop and asked the young assistant how one caught a taxi in Tokyo. She looked at me very strangely and then conferred with her friend out back before returning, looking at me strangely again and then raising her arm and shouting “Taxi”! ...Just what anyone in anyplace would do! She must have wondered what planet I came from but I bet her and her friend had a good laugh later.

Oh, and enjoy the 7/11 food. It is really good!

Kerry
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Old Apr 12th, 2009, 09:09 PM
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Enjoying your report...
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Old Apr 13th, 2009, 02:33 AM
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Hi Kerry

Thanks for all the additional information. Sounds like it's not too hard to get around with the English signs in the subway and tourist sites. I was thinking of going to Tokyo, Kyoto and maybe one or two other cities, just to get a taste of Japan. First, I have to work out when I can afford to do it and what time fits in with work. Another poster on here went late November and their pictures are full of autumn colour, which would be a nice time to see the Japanese gardens.
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Old Apr 13th, 2009, 02:33 AM
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Loved your report, very charmingly written and really conveys the hilarity and specificity of Japan, particularly with the description of the octopus and his "reserved seating, no smoking" train seat!

Would love to see your photos too, please post a link!
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Old Apr 13th, 2009, 02:53 AM
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Kerry,

Thanks for the reports. While it's true that this forum doesn't [yet?] have many backpackers, I suspect that more than a few of us plush-travelers were once traveling exactly as you are. (Except without benefit of the Internets.)
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Old Apr 13th, 2009, 03:25 AM
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Thanks everyone! I am delighted and surprised that you enjoyed my trip report.
Speckles-I would recommend Autumn in Japan or anywhere else for that matter. I always travel then. Less visitors and you get the lingering of summer warmth as well.
Mishkah. Dispute coming from a family of photographers, some of them professionals, I am not very good - the man and cat was very cute though! I did fluke a few reasonable ones and wonder where I should post them. Is there a web site where it would be easy to upload them , bearing in mind that I have rather slow dial up? Kerry.
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Old Apr 13th, 2009, 01:57 PM
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Hi Kerry

I'd recommend either:

1. Google Picasa Web albums; https://www.google.com/accounts/Serv...in?service=lh2

or

2. Flickr; www.flickr.com


Let us know if you have any Qs, happy to help as am dying to see the cat with the adoring eyes!!
mishkah is offline  
Old Apr 14th, 2009, 10:04 AM
  #16  
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Hi Mishkah,
I am posting some travel pictures soon. Will let you know where and when. The man looks more adoring than the cat, but that is such typical cat behavior! They really lap up attention, don't they! I noted that even stray cats seem to be treated with affection in Tokyo. Quite a few hung out in the parks and on several occasions, I saw people stopping and patting them. One picture I have is of a stray cat grooming himself at an outdoor cafe while the diners quite happily tolerated his ginger self plonked under their chairs. Just before I took the picture a young man eating there stooped and rubbed the cat under the chin. Now as I noted in my report, many womens' accessories looked to be trimmed with cat fur so perhaps they were about to put them into a sack and sell them to a local clothing manufacturer! Only kidding as I think it was really rabbit fur. I did see a few stray rabbits too but did not observe anyone patting them!

to Everyone - a question and some stories.

I have just been checking my previous trip information and doubt I that I have enough to make a comprehensive report that would be of any help to Fodorites and it is probably pretty outdated now. I lost a lot of travel data in a computer crash as well. Before I really got into the Internet and started sending daily emails such as from Tokyo, I used to write little stories of my travel experiences for my own amusement so I would not forget particular incidents. I found a few stories that I wonder might start some interesting new discussions. I don't know whether they are topics that have been done to death but I am interested in what other travelers have found to be either their most moving overseas experience or their funniest travel story. It's amazing what makes a good forum story - I have been really enjoying the Honk Kong camouflage prints topic ! ( Apparently perfectly acceptable as long as they are 'cute'. ) Anyway, I have enclosed the two stories. What do you all think? Should I start a new discussion on these two topics?

And a warning - I am somewhat given to the overuse of superlatives!

Twenty five years ago, I went to the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, not knowing what I would see there. I came across the Cast Room. I'll tell you what it all is in ordinary terms. It's full scale plaster casts of all the great monuments of the world, in just two rooms. But in extraordinary terms, it is every treasure imaginable jammed together in glorious profusion. One's eyes can't help but dart from one fabulous object to another. Trajan's Column dominates, too large for even for the first huge room, so it is displayed in two sections. Flying angels protrude from the walls, horses strut the aisles and medieval couples sleep peacefully amidst the confusion. It is a breathtaking and unforgettable sight when you first turn the corner and come upon that room.

I was fortunate to return last year and it was every bit as fantastically gorgeous as I had remembered. I was wandering back to the entrance when a young Asian woman and her little girl entered the room. The little girl's eyes widened a large as saucers and her mother instinctively dropped down beside her and together, on the same level, they drank it all in with the most beautiful look of wonderment on their faces. I knew I had only a split second to capture this, so whipped out my camera and took their picture. It was a terrible photo! Blurry and dark and requiring quite a bit of work to make it viewable. But even in this imperfect state, it showed everything that makes moments like this priceless. Through their eyes, I relived the first time I saw the Cast Room and , for that one magical moment alone , it was well worth going half way around the world .

I remembered too that, due to the delicate nature of the casts and also since it would now be impossible to duplicate these Victorian era masterpieces, children were not allowed into these rooms twenty five years ago. How glad I was that this was no longer the case!



One of the funniest incidents among many of them occurred in Florence. This really happened to me, exactly as written here! My apologies if I give the impression that I am typecasting Americans as loud. This lady may have been from somewhere else and anyway, I can be pretty loud myself at times. I've lived too long with elderly, deaf people, I think!

Most people know that Michelangelo's statue of ‘David' is very large. Yes, size does matter and this whole sculpted person is about 18ft tall. And yet one American couple narrowly missed seeing him. They almost tripped over him, so to speak, and without instantly recognizing that they were so close to Art's most famous giant.

I was gazing in rapture at `David’, unable to tear my eyes from him , so human that he looked like flesh turned to stone and half expecting him to turn his head and look at this insignificant human who was perusing him so intimately. You know how it is. You stare at someone for long enough and they seem to sense it and look back at you. Yet as lost as I was in my quiet reverence, the spell was broken by the strident yet strangely melodic, very strangely melodic, tones of an American lady, who asked the attendant , "Scuse me, Honey, but can you tell us where Michelangelo's `David' is?"

Try to imagine this spoken in the broadest accent that you can conceive and slightly louder than would be acceptable in a crowd of aggressive rabble.

The attendant was speechless. He merely nodded towards the 18 ft high structure a mere 20 feet away, his face a picture of unmitigated disbelief. Was he being sent up? Were they trying to make him appear foolish? Were these people really that blind?

She strode up to 'David', her spouse following dumbly in her wake. She sashayed around it a half a dozen times and then approached me.

"We thought it was just some itty, bitty little picture or something." She whispered in a confidential tone that caused all other spectators to look her way. I just smiled, not wishing to be disturbed.

She perused it again, this time with the rapt expression of an amateur detective. I would not have been surprised if she had pulled out a magnifying glass !

"How do they know that this REALLY is Michelangelo's David?" She asked me.

Slightly lost for words at this penetrating and perceptive question, I answered in kind.
"Well, they just know." I replied.

Unsatisfied, she surrounded `David' again and asked much the same question.

"Yes, but how do they really know for sure - it's so old and all," adding for good measure, "and I can't find any name on it anywhere."

Here I felt confident that I would be able to impress her by my reply and hopefully put an end to the matter by informing her that Michelangelo had never signed any of his works except `Pieta' and then only to dispel doubts, possibly from ladies such as herself, who could not conceive that such a masterful work could have been executed by a mere 23 year old. I felt at this point that I would finally be able to satisfy her unquenchable thirst for information.

I was wrong. A moment later she was at my side again, still yearning for clarification of her mind's innermost workings.

"I still can't know, how they can know, that he really did make It!" she said shaking her head.

At this point, I motioned towards my husband and said that, as he was an art teacher, he would be able to answer any further questions she may have had and quickly made my escape!
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Old Apr 15th, 2009, 08:30 AM
  #17  
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Hi Mishkah, Thanks for your help.I have posted some photos on http://picasaweb.google.com/kerryajs. I hope that's right - they are not very good.The only two good photos I have ever taken are hanging in my bathroom so that gives you an idea! Kerry.
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Old Apr 15th, 2009, 11:58 AM
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Thanks for sharing...that cat in the man's lap is so cute!
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Old Apr 15th, 2009, 11:01 PM
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Your photos are great..love the cat ones in particular! Thanks for posting them.
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 05:13 AM
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Hi Kerry. Partly on the back of your reassurances that a non-Japanese speaking, single, Aussie female can get around Tokyo okay, I have booked my trip. Malaysian have great deals at the moment from Australia. I paid AU$725 (including credit card fees) for a return flight in November. I depart for Tokyo on the 5 Nov and leave from Osaka 21 Nov. It was only $10 more to go through the travel agent who was able to get me in and out of different cities. If I booked direct on the Malaysian website I could only choose one city. I checked out the place you stayed. It looked good for a hostel, but I don't think I could handle the shared bathroom arrangements.
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