Bonita

Hello all, Namaste!
I just thought to post a little hello/Namaste to all. I haven't posted in awhile as have been very busy leading a group thru INdia and Nepal. I am presently in kATHMANDU and flew in yesterday from VAranasi on Indian Airlines which is again flying this route! Last year only Cosmic Air was flying VAransi to kathamndu on the smaller Flocker planes, but this season India Airlines is back. Generally speaking i am not the biggest fan of Indian Airlines, but in this circumstance i far prefer this carrier to the former Cosmic, it is all relative..

Anyways, i am at my fave hotel in the valley, the Hyatt which is located very close to the great Buddhist Stupa and Tibetan area of Boudnath. I have a superb room with a great view of the Stupa. I am here with a American group for a few days and always wonderful to be back.

I actually lived in kathamndu for a year back in 93 doing volunteer work,am conversent in Nepalese too, so always a grand homecomming to be chAT in Nepali too.

And yes, things are looking brighter with the recent peace agreement between the govt and Maoist, and there is defiantely a feeling of optimism in the Country! Let's hope and see!

Today i took my group to my fave of the three cities in the valley, Bhaktapur or Bhagdon, and also to the small mountail town of Nargokot. Tommorow we are off ON EARLY morning mountain flight, then to Patan, MOnkey temple(my fave), and Kathmandu Durbar Square. Evening time i will take my group to a hip resturant in Thamel.

I will post more at a later date about both he situation in Kathmandu and also recent updates in India on the North India tour circuit as i just completed another loop, but for now just wanted to say a small Namaste.

Also, a few Fodorites have emailed me recently and i will get back to all/everyone in a few days after i finish my tour.

And, anyone planning a trip to India or Nepal, feel free to drop me a line and can give u a more detailed update or offer any help. [email protected] I have excellent local contacts both in Nepal and India as this region is my second home, or rather, adopted homeland.

take care, a warm greeting and Namaste..Bonita.

Cosmo

Thanks Bonita your postings are always helpful.
For anyone else looking for flights to Kathmandu from Varanasi - Spicejet is now flying the route. Weve booked seats for February at a great price due to a special being offered for the new route. - The tickets can be booked on line spicejets.com.
They fly daily departing 11.30am.

Bonita - we have booked to stay at International Guesthouse in the north side of Thamel (location says Kaldara and map says near 7 corner) Do you know this area - is it an ok area as far as location, looks, convenience and noise?
I look foward to hearing in more detail how your days in the Valley go... Ill be taking notes to copy! hee Thank you again for all your postings. I have made my shopping list in India based on your postings!

Kathie

Namaste, Bonita. I have been carefully following the developments in Nepal, and am pleased to hear that the Maoists and the government have agreed to a truce. If things continue to go as well, I may return to Nepal next year.

A couple of quick questions:

What changes (if any) do you see on the ground in the Kathmandu Valley as a result of the accord?

I am aware that the esteemd Yak and Yeti closed earlier this year. Any word on whether (or when) it might re-open?

Cosmo

Bonita - wondering if you give any information on the new Trekking Registration Certificate TRC that was implemented last month?

Is it causing a downturn in independent trekkers I wonder?

Are the local independent guides and porters now out of work or having to take low money by now having to go on wages thru agencies? -Love to hear your perception of this big change in the industry.

divediva

aloha bonita....
we are seriously considering adding kathmandu to our india itinerary and
are also interested in the intl guest house for accomdations.

look forward to your email when you have the time.

kai

Bonita

Greetings again from kathamndu!
All seems realtively calm in the valley, and today started the group on the 7 am mountain flight and then visited Patan, Tibetan REfugee Center, MOnkey Temple, Kathamndu Durbar Square,Durbar marg(KIngs road)and then left my group exasuted to wander in Thamel.

Cosmo, u ask about a hotel in thamel. I do not know that one, but there are zillions in this district. And sure, i know the area very well as i lived in a guesthouse myself back in 93 for almost a year on/off in the area.

Thamel is the budget backpacer area, but also has plenty of good smaller hotels..And of course many opf the young Nepalese also frequent this area for its great cafes,, jazz bars, resutrants, etc, etc, etc..And of course, plenty of Shops, espeically the ubiquitous Kashmnir shops, and great bookstores too..

And yes kathie, the "esteemed" Yak and Yet Hotel is again open for business after closing down for so called "internal problems"/labor disputes, etc. But i would say the hotel has seen better days and there are cenrtainly better places to stay..But yes,the hotel does have a superb location and holds alot of history too. I have stayed many times there, but do prefer Hyatt.

These days i would say the best rooms in the Valley would be found at the Hyatt, but the HOliday Inn Crown Plaza it is said has the better service of the lot. The Radisson is also a good decent and centrally located property, ..I have stayed at all, and of course i began my days in the valley at the humble and simple places in Thamle too..so a full circle..

Cosmo, about the Treking situation certificate, i do not know much on that subject so maybe someone else will chime....I do know a treking permit was alwasy required, and I do beleive the fees have increased but can not speak further on the subject..

About Kathmandu today...What i can say is that things seem much better thus far in the Valley then the past three/four years and tourism too is slowly rebounding..I remember being here last year at the Hyatt and the hotel was literally empty, about 20% capacity..Now i would say it is up to ABOUT 80%..

Actually,I have been comming TO nEPAL here thru thick for over 15 years and Nepal always holds a place in my heart. So far things on the ground level look very calm these days, and i no longer see all the police/pressence that was lurking around the valley the past few years. Anyways, i will be comming to the valley almost every two three weeks over the next few months so i will post with any updates or changes or info..

But for now, the people seem reasonably optinmistic, the hotels seem full, tourists are returning, and let's hope for the best!

And to let those know, a visa for Nepal for three nights or less is free on Arrival at the airport!

And yes, Spice jet is launching a Varanasi-Kathmandu flight, so that is good too!

Anyways, i gotta get some rest, as i am back to Delhi tommorow. Namaste.

Kathie

Thanks for the info, Bonita. If I return to Nepal next year, I'd like to spend a couple nights at the Yak and Yeti, but will likely spend most of the nights at the Hyatt. If you do have a chance to look at the Yak and Yeti, I'd be interested in the condition of the hotel and its rooms. When I stayed there in 1994 it was lovely. And is the Chimney Room serving dinner again?

Bonita

Hello again..
Kathie, I am leaving tommorow and will not go back and visit the Hotel this time, but i have stayed at the Yak and Yeti about 10 times in the past few years! MY last stay was last nOVember 2005, so i know the property quite well..

IN my last visit i felt the hotel was no longer up to par excellence! I also had complaints from my clients about facilites and food!

Of course the hotel is filled with history, folklore and legend, but in terms of service i was dissapointed!@

However, the location can not be beat so if u spend much time in the valley, yes, u may want to divy up your time..

if u do stay at teh yak and yeti you defiantely want to stay in the New wing, and not in the old wing! The old wing, the traditonal Newari wing has really seen better days, and i would say the bathrooms and carpet are outdated, and there were complaints of the rooms being old, dirty and a smell from my clients..I sadly have to agree..

OH, and the beds are rock hardQ!

However, **If u stay at the yak and yeti by all means book into the New wing, the Darbari wing..this is much much better, no comparison! the rooms here are very Nice, comfortable and new!

Oh, **just for YOU< i CALLED the Yak and Yeti hotel tonight and found out that the Chimmney Room resturant is still closed and unforutnately tHEY ONLY have the cafe operational..I beleive it is called the Sunrise CAfe..

However, i was told that the Chimney Room resturant should likely open sometime in January..Let's see!

Anyways, i will keep u updates with any happenings..

Namaste.

Cosmo

Thank you Bonita - much appreciated.