cococo

Hi I’m travelling to South East Asia (Malaysia, Brunei and Indonesia) with work in a couple of weeks’ time. In between work, I am interested in sightseeing, culture as well nature and scenery. A beach is fine but I couldn’t lie there all day! I am splitting up my time between Kuala Lumpur, Brunei, Sabah and Indonesia…tips appreciated!

So far the itinerary looks like:

16th May – Arrive Kuala Lumpur afternoon after a long flight – rest (Traders Hotel?)
17th May- Kuala Lumpur: Work
18th May – Miri/Brunei: Fly to Miri on Thursday morning- drive through Brunei and work. Stay Miri/Brunei? (Brunei – Capital Residence Suites)
19th May- Miri- My colleague has a meeting here, alternatively I could stay in Brunei.
20/21st- Weekend- Free. My colleagues are going to Kota Kinabalu
23rd Fly to Jakarta
24th- Work Jakarta.
25th- return KL, airport hotel overnight?
26th – Fly home from KL

Questions would be:

1. I take it is probably more worthwhile to spend the weekend in Kota Kinabalu rather than KL in that I will probably have the opportunity to go back to KL but not KK ( I know there will be a lot of attractions in KL though obviously)

2. I have a friend in Brunei who said she could show me around Bandar Seri, Begawan and the water village but unfortunately she is only available on the Saturday/Sunday. So I can either spend a couple of days in Brunei OR stay in Miri OR spend more time in KK.

3. Ideally I’d like a night in Miri and then 1 in Brunei but I don’t think it is feasible to travel there and back again. So I may have to spend 2 nights in Brunei (skip Miri really) and then go to KK later i.e. Saturday night. It would be ideal if my friend was available on Friday rather than Saturday but that’s life. I’ve heard that Brunei isn’t perhaps the most exciting destination but I’m not looking for nightlife, etc.

Any opinions appreciated of how to best plan my time.

Thanks

Kathie

KL is the least interesting of the Asian capitals. Contrary to your assertion, there are not a lot of attractions in KL.

Do you have work to do In Brunei? I'd spend as little time as possible there.

For your free weekend, I'd recommend either Kuching or Kota Kinabalu.

Unfortunately, since this is a work trip you don't have time to explore this fascinating part of the world.

crellston

I havent been to Brunei so can't comment but I have spent a fair amount of time in both Kota Kinabalu and Kuala Lumpur.

I disagree with Kathie's comments regarding KL. it is a great place to spend a few days - especially if you are a foodie! Traders hotel is a good place to stay. Make sure to go for sundowners in the bar overlooking the petronas towers. The best view in KL by far. Merdeka square has some interesting British colonial and Islamic architecture. The Islamic Arts Museaum is worth a few hours.

KK is a pleasant enough city for a weekend. Spend a day island hopping in Tunku Abdul Rahman NP - boats are easily arranged from Jessleton pier right in town. The Filipino market has some of the best fish restaurants in Asia and Mount Kinabalu is just a couple of hours away and well worth a visit even if you just hike some of the trails at the base and visit the hot springs.

Miri is basically just another oil town and hardly worth a visit. The main reason for visiting is as a jumping off point for Mulu but it doesn't seem as if you will have enough time.

marmot

Miri is about 1.5 hours to the Niah caves. The caves themselves are quite interesting and not too difficult to access though there are quite a few steps. To get to the cave entrance you walk along a rsised wooden walkway for several kilometers through dense rainforest. You will see lots of wildlife. Your hotel in Miri can arrange a guide and transport.

CaliforniaLady

I have been to all the places you have mentioned, including Brunei. So let's break this down by your questions:

For your day off, you should go with your colleague to Miri. As marmot mentioned, the Niah caves are quite interesting and peaceful. I had a driver arranged via the Miri Marriott who picked me up at the airport, took me to the caves, and then to my hotel. I had a slightly better impression of Miri than crellston, it's a nice city with wonderful Chinese food.

For your weekend off, it's all a matter of who you like better. If you like your work colleagues, then by all means go to KK. Since there are three of you, the price of a driver will be reasonable--I recommend going to Mount Kinabalu and seeing the beautiful scenery. Alternatively, if you think your friend in Brunei can show you a good time, then by all means stay there. However, I was there for one full day only--I had a driver bring me for the day from Miri--I had thought it was enough. I took a boat out to the water villages, but if you've seen them in other parts of Asia, then they are underwhelming.

Like crellston, I am quite fond of KL, perhaps because we have a family friend there who takes me to cool places when I visit. He's Chinese-Malay, so he knows the best places to eat. The city is not super charming, the there are a handful of important sites to see.

cococo

Thanks for the responses.

Forgetting Miri for a moment, Ulu Temburong ( a day trip from brunei) looks really interesting - I think you have to organise a tour for this? If any one has done this, would appreciate tips.

Do you know how dis/similar is it to the trails around the base of Mt Kinabalu (eg Ligawu etc) and the hot springs, canopy walkway there, etc and it is easy enough to get here from KK?

Depending if work approves it, thinking of 2 nights in Brunei (not ideal but want to see my friend) so 1 day and a bit to see the town and Kampong Ayer + maybe one to Ulu Temburong. Then the rest of the weekend in KK. If not, can do Miri but my colleagues will be in meetings with Shell on Thurs so I don't think I can really say 'bye, I am away to the caves while you work!'

No issue re. who I stay with, one colleague is Malay-Malay and we get on well, he could show me KK but is maybe playing golf on the Sun! he's asked me what I want him to show me in KL although I won't have much time as I am sure we will pretty shattered when we arrive and then in full day meetings the next day but I'll hopefully get back to KL with him in August for a week. But if there are any recommendations where it would be best to have a local to see a particular sight of KL that would be good. The other colleague is fine but I think he'll just want to relax but I have no issue doing things myself.

CaliforniaLady

I am going to share the excellent Miri-based travel agent I used for the Niah Caves, airport pick up, and day trip to Brunei:

Allen Ting at Minda Travel
[email protected]

Like many posters here, I am generally weary of travel agents, but he Allen to be excellent and reasonably priced. Allen can make arrangements for you to get to other places in Brunei, I am sure. And no, I only went to BSB, but I believe some of the other areas, including the national parks, are quite beautiful. Be warned that prices are higher in Brunei than they are in Malaysia. In fact, people in Brunei typically go to Miri to shop.

For your question about Mount Kinabalu, I made the mistake of signing up for a mini bus day tour from my hotel. I should have spent the extra money for a private driver, and it was awful--one Korean family, and another from China with small children getting car sick in the van--ewwwww. Anyway, the botanical gardens are beautiful, and the canopy walks are fun. I thought the hot springs were "icky"--they were tubs of water in cement, so I just dipped my feet in. It's a full day trip from KK to see all of that, but really, hire a driver for the day.

Regarding KL, I enjoyed our eating tour in Chinatown. It's also fun to see the towers, and even go inside the fancy mall there (we ate dinner at a really good Malaysian restaurant on the top floor of the mall). We also visited the Batu Caves, which were nice. During my last visit, we did a walking tour of the colonial buildings, and visited the National Museum.

As Kathie mentioned, try to visit Kuching during one of your trips. Kathie had recommended the orchid garden there, and it was my favorite site.

crellston

We got the bus from KK to Mt Kinabalu. It took about two hours and dropped us right at the park gates. We were going to get the bus back but a very nice elderly man stopped when we were waiting at the bus stop and offered us a lift. He remove like a madman but we made it in one piece, just! A car with drive or a self drive hire would be a better option for a day trip.

The walks around the base are really nice and reasonably well signposted. We did two, both of which are detailed on our blog above. How similar they are to those around Ulu Temberong I couldn't say

cococo

For a private driver though, I guess you wouldn't get a tour? The prices to Kinabalu Park are a lot cheaper than the Ulu Temburong in Brunei although I think I will do that as well (canopy walk, fishes in the falls, etc)

Did anyone do the Orangutan sanctuary at Shangri La? Or any other day trip?

I emailed Allen re. Brunei but no response but I think I have a tour there - as long as they can get other people on it or I risk paying double!

Kathie

Personally, I wouldn't get a tour, I'd get a private driver as I don't like tours. But do what seems best to you.

I have not been to the "orangutan sanctuary" at the Shangri-La. Note that there are a number of places that call themselves "Rehab Centers" or "Sanctuaries" but borneo, we avoided such places and put our time and energy into seeing orangutans in the wild, which we were able to do in the Danum Valley. You don't have time for that so a "sanctuary" or "rehab center" may be your only way to see orangutans.

cococo

Sorry a typo there - when I said private driver I meant you wouldn't get a guide?

I take it safety is not a problem - I am a lone, white female in my 20s. I would use common sense but my Malaysian colleague told me of his safety concerns in Sabah.

Yes, only really have two days to see anything of the country unfortunately.

cococo

Or the rafflesia reserve or the islands around...

CaliforniaLady

Regarding Allen at Minda Travel, he sometimes takes groups around, so be patient. However, it has been almost two years since I worked with him, so you could possibly contact the Miri Marriott, where he has his office, and see what the story is.

I found drivers in Malaysia truly exceptional. They won't just drive to a stop and wait--they seem to want to act as guides, with tireless enthusiasm, so no, you don't need a guide, just a driver.

I'm not suprised that the prices you have found for Brunei are much higher than Malaysia. However, I agree with Kathie in that I will never again take a group tour, even for a day. To get to Mount Kinabalu, I would either higher a driver, or take the bus, as crellston did.

I traveled alone on that trip, and I never felt unsafe. The men were all friendly, and extremely respectful. However, my hotel owner in Kuching told me that one of his guests had her purse snatched on the street, so it never hurts to be careful.

Kathie

cococo, no, I wouldn't get a guide for any of the places you are considering. Really, no need. Do read about your destinations before you go, as you will then have a better idea of what you would like to do/see.

cococo

Thanks for the replies - the problem is there are too many things I want to do! I will maybe see how I feel when I arrive.

I would like to arrive at Kinabalu park for the ranger walk at 11am (could take bus if up early enough) and ideally see the rafflesia at Poring as well which would require a taxi/driver.

I guess drivers are easy to find through a hotel and relatively inexpensive?

Kathie

yes, drivers are easy to find, through your hotel, or just walk out of your hotel and talk with one. I found that the drivers had a standard fare to popular spots like Kinabalu Park.

CaliforniaLady

For a day trip to Mt. Kinabalu, I would arrange a driver via my hotel. You are going to be spending an entire day with this guy, so you want someone who comes highly recommended.

I stayed at the Jesselton Hotel in Kota Kinabalu, and they quoted me 400 - 450 MYR for a driver, including car, gas, and up to eight hours. This is with their trusted driver. They also quoted me 190 MYR for the group trip I took, and I truly wish I had sprung for the extra cost of the taxi.

Whatever hotel you are staying at, they probably have a trusted driver. I have been using drivers alot lately on my trips, and find them from various sources. However, I have found the drivers recommended by the hotels to be the most reliable.

crellston

A driver to Kinabalu park would save a lot of hassle, especially if you want to go to Poring as well. As a lone woman I would suggest you only go with someone recommended by a decent hotel.

Going by bus is easy enough but you would have to get to and from the bus station first which is a few kms from the centre and adds time You would have to leave early to get there for the ranger walk. We stayed at http://www.eden54.com in KK which was very reasonable and very comfortable. The staff were amongst the nicest and most helpful we encountered during our travels in Malaysia! Although we didn't use them for any tours, I am sur ether could sort something out for you. As you are tight on time I would suggest you email your accomodation in advance to arrange transport.

As an alternative to the ranger walk it is easy enough to follow the trails in the park using the maps provided from the HQ office. Although you would be alone and likely not see another soul on the trails. There are usually plenty of mountain guides at around the office and I m sure you could get one of the ode to guide you for a few ringgits.

cococo

Thanks again but not 100% sure if I want a driver by myself for the whole day. Do you know roughly how much a taxi would cost from Kinabalu Park HQ to Poring Rafflesia park?

Waiting on hearing where my colleagues are staying (conference is at Sutera hotel but don't think they are staying there) might be Hilton but hopefully Le Meridien or Hyatt.

crellston

There is a shuttle bus between park HQ and Poring. I think it costs around 18/20rm. Takes around an hour.