Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Asia
Reload this Page >

Banjaar Tola - Kanha National Park, India - TIGERS Trip Report

Search

Banjaar Tola - Kanha National Park, India - TIGERS Trip Report

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 28th, 2010, 06:23 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Banjaar Tola - Kanha National Park, India - TIGERS Trip Report

Banjaar Tola – Kana National Park – MP India
Mission: See Tigers in the wild.

After 4 hrs of sleep at the Taj Lands End in Mumbai (Bombay), we were picked up from the hotel reception by our driver arranged by India Safari’s for a very short and traffic free journey to the Mumbai domestic airport. Check in was surprisingly easy and after a single sex security thorough check (the even pick up match boxes – smokers no lighters of any kind) we waited in a rather bleak and noisy (constant announcements) for our Jet Light flight to Nagpur. The plus side is free WIFI. Boarding is via air-conditioned buses a rather new 737 all economy class no frills service that was polite and friendly. An hour and fifteen minutes later we arrived in Nagpur airport and were greeted by 40 degrees (c) heat and an overwhelmed bus service to the terminal (we walked). Nagpur Airport is a rather modern airport by Indian standards.

We were met by our driver who for the next six hours only spoke three words of English, and hooted more times than the number of words he probably knew in Hindi The car was an air-conditioned Toyota Nova which had two recliner seats in the back with our breakfast in between the seats. Breakfast consisted of a few bags of crisps, biscuits, juice, diet coke and bottled tepid water. With culinary delights in hand, we set of on our six-hour journey to Banjaar Tola. The journey goes through urban areas, villages and rural areas. Between snoozing, and trying to figure out where we were (all signs are in Hindi) we eventually made it to Banjaar Tola. Along the way there really is no opportunity for any clean comfort stops, so it was a race to the bathroom more than to the Tigers.

Banjaar Tola is divided into two camps – East and West. Each consists of 9 suits, swimming pool, common lounge and dining areas, and a satellite kitchen. There is a main kitchen near the staff village, which serviced both camps. Each camp has its own camp manager and butlers, with an overall general manager.

We were received with smiles and cold wet towels and refreshing glasses of lime water (which was given every time you returned to camp to avoid help rehydrate your body).

We were taken to our sumptuous suite and shown around. There are three distinct areas – bathing / dressing, sleeping / living and outdoor. The bathing area was a good 30Sqm with a large luggage rack, two separate wardrobes (one with a safe), two hand washbasins, a freestanding deep soak tub and a large open shower area. The toilet was in a separate closed area. Toiletries were sublime and luxurious. It was all aryu Vedic, consisting of a hair wash, Hair softener, shower gel, bath salt and a moisturizing after shower / bath cream. The best bit was an oily orange jar of a body scrub. Also supplied was bath soap, washing powder, cotton butts and sarongs, cotton bathrobes, bathroom slippers, and oodles of fluffy white towels that were replaced twice daily. There was a separate air-conditioning unit and fan in for this area.

The sleeping area was around 50 Sqm and consisted of a large circular bed (odd design) with down pillows and duvet, a large headboard where you could dump things. A cabinet with a mini bar (stocked to your requirements – included in your room price), another cabinet with light exercise equipment and torches. There was a separate writing desk, and a on the opposite side a comfortable seating area. This area had its own air-conditioning unit and ceiling fan. It also had a very interesting butlers hatch where morning tea / coffee would be left.

Laundry was included in the room price, and any given the evening before was returned by lunchtime the next day, and any given in the morning by evening, and twice we sent laundry at lunchtime, and it was returned the same evening. This service was brilliant, and allowed us to carry minimal luggage.

The deck was around 25 sqm. and had two day beds, and outdoor fan, a table and two chairs. This overlooked the Banjaar River. Often we would see the local tribal women, children and men wash their laundry and bath. Sometimes we could see monkeys, spotted deer, cows and domesticated buffalos.

The pathways between all the suits and main areas are sand, which are lit up at night lanterns. The common area has an indoor air-conditioned longer area and a separate indoor air-conditioned dining area. Between these two there is an outdoor seating area and on front of all three of these areas is an elongated dining deck overlooking the Banjaar River.

Meals can be served in your suite or in the common areas. After an early morning wake up call (with coffee / Tea and biscuits in your suit) , guests meet in the outdoor deck for porridge (served with whiskey, nuts, jaggery or raisins all served on the side). You can also request for eggs, toast etc. The departure for early morning game drives can be anywhere from 5:15 am onwards (this is pre-arranged with your naturalist). On the game drive a packed breakfast is carried which usually consists of biscuits, Muffins, Indian savories , juice, Tea and coffee, but you can also request for boiled eggs, sandwiched etc. Unlike on African safaris, there are designating picnic zones which are crowded.

You are normally back at camp anywhere between 11 am – 12 noon where you are asked what time you would like to have your lunch. We always headed back to the suite to cool down and freshen up, before we headed back for lunch. We started with a soup (the cold ones were the best). Lunch always consisted of very interesting salads (over five lunches not one salad was repeated, and by western standards they were different but very refreshing and tasty). They have a very large kitchen garden that produces lots of different salads, herbs, tomatoes, cucumbers and Indian vegetables. Also served at lunch were two different types of kebabs (one veg and one non veg), fresh fruit and a dessert. You could also ask for a western meal if you preferred. The food was not greasy, or too spicy. This was always served with hot buttered tandoori naan or roti, and a dhal and a vegetable curry of the day.

In the evenings, we normally returned to camp between 6:30 and 7:00 pm. After an adventurous, dusty and hot afternoon we always headed back to our suite for a long welcome shower and change of clothes. Cocktails were served in the lounge area at any time after 7:00 pm with canapés (always a veg and non veg kebab). Dinner was always a themed affair. One night we had a BBQ in the open with traditional dancers and a fire, another night was around the pool with food cooked in Haandi’s (clay pots), etc. Food was always excellent. Even at dinner, we always started of with a soup, and then the main course, followed by desert. Service was attentive, and within one to two meals, they knew your drink preferences, how spicy you liked your food, etc. At the end of dinner, your morning wake up call and hot beverage selection would be noted.
At Banjaar Tola, all your drinks – beer, house wine, spirits, juices, sodas and water were included in your room price. There was a choice of local spirits or imported (Bombay Saphire, Absolute Vodka, etc.). What was surprising was that there was no wine list. The quality of glassware was excellent.

Banjaar Tola is owned by Taj Hotels (which is owned by the TATA group), and have gone into partnership with &Beyond (formerly CC Africa). Taj provides all the training for service while &Beyond has provided the expertise on a bush experience, and more importantly training for the guides and guidance on the design of the tents, layout of the camp and the vehicles.

We were not too sure of two things.

1. Will we understand the guide, and after exceptional safari experiences in Africa, and how would our dream of wanting to see Tigers in the wild live up?

2. What would the game viewing experience, and management of the park be like.

The vehicles used are like the open land rovers used in Africa. They made by TATA (who now own Land rover), and have six individual seats at the back. All the other camps in the area used the Mahindra Jeeps that looked cramp and low. So this was a bonus straight away.

The park opens at sunrise (6:00 am) until 11:00 am and in the afternoon from 3:30 pm to sunset (6:30 pm). As there are no camps inside the park, all guests have to enter the park and leave the park within the above times. They are very strict (which is a good thing). While we were there one vehicle was reported to have left the park 5 minutes late, and the driver was banned for three months, while the vehicle was banned for one month from entering the park. Each vehicle is licensed and a limited number of licenses are issued for each zone.

All guests who wish to enter the park must have been pre-booked online. Banjaar Tola had handled this for us. We would queue up outside the gate, and our naturalist would go off to get us registered. We would then be assigned a park guide who would be with us for the duration of our game drive. Banjaar Tola had very experienced Naturalists (guides), but they respected the rules of the park, and always sought opinion of the park guides. They never dismissed the park guides. At 6:00 am the gates would open on the dot, and there would be a rush of vehicles going in. While they did not speed, nor overtake, it was quite funny to watch.

We found that Tiger viewing was much better in the other zone (which was 40 – 60 minutes away), so the vehicles heading there would rush off. The vehicles staying in our zone would usually head to the Elephant Camp, where we would be registered for the elephant safari/ride. We would then head off on our game drive.
It was quite surprising at how well managed the park was. There are fire breaks throughout the park that are regularly cleared, they monitor tiger movement from elephants and jeeps, there are officials who stay in the park and monitor all movement (human and animal), off roading is not permitted (and this includes parking off the side of the road to watch animals. You must remain on the road at all times), no alcohol or smoking, no speeding, no picnicking except at designated sites, etc, and all monitored.
The game drives are reasonably well managed, until there is a sighting. The vehicles rev back and forth, and push in front of each other. At times, guests were hoping from on vehicle to another to get a better view.

We were very blessed. On 10 game drives, we had 11 tiger sightings, and counted 8 individual cats. We saw them cross the road, from the back of an elephant, walking, stalking, drinking, sitting in water, and entering water. It was truly amazing. We spent anywhere between 3 minutes to over an hour at the various sightings.

Other game that we saw included one leopard, chital (spotted deer), wild pigs, barasingha (swamp deer), sambar (like a huge buffalo), jungle fowl (wild chickens), and lots and lots of birds. The game drives were amazing.

In regards to the elephant, we would try and get back to the elephant camp before 9 am. If the mahouts had found the tigers, they would wait for them to settle by 9 am. If they had not settled, there would be no viewing. If they had settled, they would radio to the elephant camp, who would radio the warden for approval to allow tourists to go for elephant safaris. If approved, we would be given a receipt, and told which direction the elephants are in. Off we would go. When you get to the spot, you get onto an elephant (using a ladder) in the order you had booked early in the morning. There were four elephants, and each one would take two adults plus the mahout. Off you would go (usually a 3-7 minute walk away), and have a look at the Tiger. We got to spend between 3-8 minutes when we went, viewing the tigers.

What the Indian Government has achieved with the management of their parks (we are assuming all are the same) is quite extraordinary. We thought they would have been mismanaged.

Hats off to Taj Safari’s and what they are doing with Safaris in India. Their partnership with &Beyond is a great marriage and the camps are truly warm and genuine. The staff are exceptional.

We can’t wait till we get to go on a Tiger Safari in India again with Taj Safari’s.
roadwarriorafrica is offline  
Old Apr 28th, 2010, 06:28 AM
  #2  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
One thing I forgot to add, is when would be the best time of the year to go?

The park is closed from July to September inc. so the camp is closed as well.

In the cooler months of October to February, as the park may be wet, the Tigers can be seen more often on the road. In the drier months March to June, there are fewer watering holes, so they concentrate around there.

We went end March/early April for 5 nights. It was hot and dusty during the day. If we were to go again, it would be late April/May when it is even hotter and drier.
roadwarriorafrica is offline  
Old Apr 28th, 2010, 06:37 AM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for your report. A few questions. Was this an all-inclusive package in and out of Mumbai (air, transport to the camp, lodging, etc)? Can you give us an idea of cost? DId you do game viewing in both zones?

And lastly, did they really serve whisky with porridge for breakfast?
Kathie is offline  
Old Apr 28th, 2010, 06:42 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,501
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for an interesting report. Our positive experience with &Beyond in Bandhavgarh was very similar except that we didn't get to see as many tigers as you did. We only saw 3 in 6 game drives and considered ourselves very fortunate since people were leaving without having seen any. (We did share the park with 450 school children...) The chaos when a tiger is found is amazing. The park naturalist told us to stand on the jeep seats for a better view! Imagine doing that in Africa...
Marija is offline  
Old Apr 28th, 2010, 08:56 PM
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Kathie. We booked our own flights from Mumbai, but the return transfers, lodging, mealsm game drives, etc., was all organised for us by India Safari's. They charged INR 43000 (US$900) per double per night plus the transfer for INR 33,000 (US$700) return.

We did view game in both zones. The Kanha zone, which is nearest to the lodge is very bushy and lots of trees, but we had some great sightings here. The other zone (can't remember the name) has lots of plains, so when the Tigers are sighted, they are usually in the open.

They did have whisky at breakfast to pour a tot onto your porridge

Marija - I totally agree with the chaos. I would suggest to avoid weekends and Indian school holiday periods, as there are many families with children in the parks.

What was very surprising was the number of local Indians who holiday domestically. It was great to see them seeing their own country, which is very rare in Africa, especially East Africa.
roadwarriorafrica is offline  
Old Apr 29th, 2010, 05:43 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the info, roadwarrior. The whiskey at breakfast must be a British thing.
Kathie is offline  
Old Apr 29th, 2010, 09:04 PM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi roadwarriorafrica,

Thank you for posting your report! Fantastic trip!

One quick question: Is India Safari the same company as Taj Safari? You mentioned India Safari handled your booking except for the domestic flight, but then by the end of the report you said you'd go again with Taj Safari. I am curious because I found India Safari in Google and I have e-mailed them regarding an itinerary based on your report. I am wondering if I contacted a different company now.

Thanks!
ngodeia is offline  
Old May 2nd, 2010, 05:57 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Here is their new website: http://www.andbeyondindia.com/

The old website (with their legacy India Safaris name) is: http://www.indiasafaris.com/

Both sites will get you to the same lodges and tour company (Taj Hotels and &Beyond partnership). Very friendly and knowledgeable people.

We used &Beyond in Africa (Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana, and Zimbabwe) for a long safari trip last year, and they were spectacular. We're looking forward to staying in one of the India lodges later this year.
Newlyweds08 is offline  
Old May 2nd, 2010, 06:24 AM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,501
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Note that you can usually save quite a bit of money by making your own arrangements for transfers to/from the airport/train to the safari lodges. Unlike Africa where small commuter planes whisk you around, in India you are faced with long drives to the lodges.
Marija is offline  
Old May 2nd, 2010, 09:37 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the report. I'm also a big fan of andbeyond and am keeping an eye on their prroperties in India while waiting for the right time (for me). Pity that it no longer seems like they will be expanding to Latin America.
Femi is offline  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 06:56 AM
  #11  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I booked through Taj Safari's who are also know as India Safari's. You can email Daljeet Kaur at [email protected]. She was great.

Thanks for all the feedback.
roadwarriorafrica is offline  
Old May 30th, 2010, 10:54 AM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I had been hoping for a report just like yours. Thanks so much! Very positive comments.

Those 450 school children are certainly busy in the parks of India. I hope that leaves enough time for their education.

Your comparisons to Africa are helpful to some of us, like me. Don't know that I can get used to whiskey at breakfast, but I'll do my best.

Can you put a number (either Celsius or Fahrenheit) on the hottest point of your day? I plan to be in Kanha and some other parks in April next year.

With 10 game drives, was that 4 nights in Kanha?

I'm so glad I saw this.

What luck you had and mission accomplished!
atravelynn is offline  
Old May 30th, 2010, 11:15 AM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I missed the 40 midday heat--that's the answer I needed.

How far in advance did you book?
atravelynn is offline  
Old Jun 4th, 2010, 06:51 PM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
RoadWarrior, you need to drive on back to this thread!
atravelynn is offline  
Old Jun 5th, 2010, 02:41 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
6 tigers, wow! I don't recall anyone on this board seeing more. I'm so spoiled by Africa I've never been sure I'd enjoy this. Maybe I should rethink.
LAleslie is offline  
Old Jun 5th, 2010, 10:33 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think the mindset that you [and I] have to get over, LA, is that we have to <i>share</i> our animals with a screeching horde - unlike in Africa, where all my mega-sightings were almost one on one, for prolongued periods, off-road and very, very close.

Everything else about the AndBeyond experience would be pretty darn good, I reckon.
dogster is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2010, 07:20 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,501
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Forget the tigers. The giant anteater of the Pantanal is the most amazing animal I've ever seen. It makes a wildebeest appear carefully designed. No hordes. Just you and the anteaters. No danger unless you try to climb on their backs or outrun them for the ants.
Marija is offline  
Old Jun 12th, 2010, 10:36 AM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think if you got too familiar with that snout you might endanger yourself as well.

LAleslie, I have rethought and will give India's parks a try! If the 450 school children stand me up, I'll almost feel slighted.

We can turn any thread into a tribute to the Giant Anteater, right Marija?
atravelynn is offline  
Old Jun 29th, 2010, 11:11 AM
  #19  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sorry for falling asleep. Too much work travel. And just got back from the Mara witnessing a spectacular early migration.

@atravelynn - It was 40 Celsius. We booked around 12 months in advance. We made sure that we spent 4 nights, 5 days of pure Tiger searching. We would leave earlier then most, and come back later then most. Dedication paid off.

We are hoping on going back in 3 years. 2011 will be Serengetti and Selous in Tanzania.
roadwarriorafrica is offline  
Old Jul 1st, 2010, 06:40 PM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks Roadwarrior!
atravelynn is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rhbphoto
Asia
9
Jul 20th, 2018 09:30 PM
atravelynn
Asia
102
Jun 7th, 2011 07:55 AM
BYoung4u2
Asia
21
Oct 22nd, 2009 06:57 PM
emdee
Africa & the Middle East
18
Aug 29th, 2008 09:39 PM
HariS
Africa & the Middle East
31
Nov 16th, 2007 01:06 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -