roadwarriorafrica

Flight
Nairobi - Johannesburg
Kenya Airways KQ 460
Business Class – Boeing 767-300
Seating Configuration 2-1-2. Seat 4B
Depart 07:40 Arrive 10:40

Having used the Kenya Airways on-line check in the night before, we turned up at the airport at 6:00 am. There were two security lines to get into the check-in areas. We waited around half an hour to get through. There were two Business Class check in counters open, and we once again waited close to twenty minutes to get served. Once at the counter, the process was quick. Immigration had 6 counters open, and we waited around 20 minutes there. By the time we got up into the departure hall, it was already 7:15 am, and the flight was being called. We were one of the last passengers to board.

We were shown to our seat, and offered a glass of juice or water and papers. After take off, we were given a breakfast menu (Fruit Salad, Cereal with cold milk, Fruit Yoghurt, poached eggs with Florentine potatoes or scrambled eggs in vol-au-vont and sausage, bread and croissants, tea and coffee.). At the same time, a tray of juice was brought around. We asked for Champagne, and were told it was not chilled, and would have to wait half an hour. However two glasses were brought 5 minutes later with an ice cube in each one. I found that quite odd.

Individual Video players were handed out as well, and there was a choice of around 10 movies, and some TV programmes. These worked well, except when you had your food tray on the table, the video player had to be carefully balanced on the armrest. We were also asked to give an order for drinks 90 minutes prior to landing. I said that I would order a drink if I was awake, and see what mood I was in, the stewardess did not like that and replied ‘if you are sleeping, we will not wake you’. Like I want to be woken for drink!!! (Sometimes I would, but the night before I had less then 3 hours of sleep). I found that quite odd to take drink orders for before landing.

Breakfast service was prompt and efficient. The champagne kept flowing (without ice cubes). The poached egg (not eggs) were tasty, and the bread fresh.

KQ Business Class seats are excellent for an African carrier on the 767 and 777. They are virtually flat, and being 6 foot, I was very comfortable. They need better pillows and blankets to make it a more comfortable seat to sleep in.

We landed at a remote stand, and had to wait for the bus to fill up (J only had 12 passengers, so we had to wait for Y passengers). Immigration in JNB is messy with long snaking lines (everyone just jumped under the barriers). Immigration was quick.

We waited around 20 minutes for the bags to appear (priority tagging worked its wonders and our bags were among the last to come off). Customs was a breeze, and we were out into a fresh sunny Johannesburg winter day.

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Intercontinental Sandton Johannesburg Towers

We had booked online through the Southern Sun website, and got a deal of ZAR1805 (USD260) per night BB. This was a great deal in my opinion.

Check in was very efficient, and we were up in our room in no time. The porter showed us around the room, and how things work. This was a great improvement on previous stays. We felt service had tremendously improved.

What I like about the rooms in this hotel is their size. They are large. There is a separate L shaped sofa with a coffee table, King size bed on the other side of the room, a big plasma screen that rotates, so you can watch it from bed, the sofa, etc., a writing desk and chair. The bathroom is huge. There is a separate dressing area that you walk through to get to the bathroom. There is a separate toilet, and a separate shower with a power head. Twin vanity’s, a bathtub, and lost of towels. There are also shelves on either side of the vanity that have tea/coffee making facilities. The safe is large enough to accommodate a laptop.

The hotel is undergoing room refurbishment. And during our stay did not experience any noise or disturbance.

Our bed and breakfast rate allowed us to also have room service breakfast. So we had room service two mornings in a row. Food was delivered on time, and the waited showed us what the different items were. The portions were huge, and very tasty and fresh. The trolley was well laid out.

What I like about the hotels location in the proximity to the Sandton Shopping Mall (via an air bridge through the Southern Sun Hotel), as well as Nelson Mandella Square (full of good restaurants). It allowed us to catch up on some shopping for the safari, and good meals at the Butchers Shop & Grill.

After two wonderful nights, check out was a breeze. I had organised a hotel car to have us dropped off at the airport.

Flight
Johannesburg - Maun
Air Botswana BP 212
Economy Class – BAe-146
Seating Configuration 3-3. Seat 10E
Depart 10:10 Arrive 11:50

On arrival at the airport, we engaged the services of a porter. We had 2 rucksacks, and 2 camera bags. I paid him around ZAR30 (USD4), and it was well worth it. As we had bought goods in Johannesburg, and wanted to claim back tax, I told the porter, and he zipped us off to a Customs Counter that had no queue (we passed others that had at least 7 people waiting in line). We cleared Customs in no time, and were at the check-in counter at 8:00 am.

The counter did not open until 8:30 am, and check in was fast. Immigration and security had short queues, and it took around 15 minutes to get the VAT refund processed. We grabbed a coffee at the Newscafe, which had extremely slow / non-existent service.

We were at one of the far gates, where boarding takes place via a bus. The aircraft was a BAe-146, fairly new aircraft. The flight load was around 30%, so we had 3 seats to ourselves (middle one spare). The flight was on time, and we were served a drink and a very small sweet roll. Service was polite.

We arrived into Maun at 11:00 am. Maun airport is a small building, with 1 immigration line, and a bench where your bags get delivered to. Customs was a breeze, and within 15 minutes of landing, we were with Sefofane, who were providing our internal transfers in Botswana.

Flight
Maun – Duba Plains (via Jao, Mombo and Vumburra)
Sefofane Air Charters
Cessna Caravan 1-2.
Approx. 1 Hour

This was around a one hour flight, as we dropped off and picked up passengers along the way. Sefofane operate a very safe flight, and the pilot very clearly explained to us where the exits were, etc. He also showed us on a map (aerial photograph) the route we were taking.

Whenever we landed at an airstrip, Sefofane had their own staircase, so we used the cargo door, as well as a barrier near the propeller to avoid people walking into it. The plane also carried an extra employee who would load/off load luggage.

Having flown many charters in East Africa, I was impressed with their professionalism, and service.

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Duba Plains Camp – Wilderness Safari’s – 6 nights

When we landed, we were collected at the airstrip by our guide, Rueben in a customised Land Rover. There were three rows of 3 seats, with the last row having less depth for your legs. Rueben briefed us on safari safety and drove us to the camp. Every time your vehicle approaches camp, the guide radio’s ahead, and you are always met by at least 2 smiling faces.

We were greeted by two camp manager’s – Dardley and Tabby. Our bags were taken to the room. Dardley took us to the lounge area which is next to the bar. The dining room is a few steps above the bar, and in front of the lounge is a ‘star’ deck with a pit fire. A walkway from the lounge leads to the common washroom, and up the stairs to a small plunge pool, and a deck for brunch. Further on down the stairs along a walkway is a ‘hide’.

Wilderness Safari’s operate 3 levels of camps. Premier, Classic, and Exploration. The Premier camps are top of the line (we stayed at Kings Pool), Duba Plains was Classic (as was Little Vumbara), and Exploration Camps are mobile camps.

The common areas were very well appointed and extremely comfortable. Staff were always on hand to help you, and if not, you could hop behind the bar and help yourself to a drink. Next to the dining table was a tea and coffee station available all day.

Dardley briefed us on the camp (no fences so animals come in), our daily schedule (up at 5:30 am, continental breakfast at 6:00 am, game drive at 6:30 am, brunch at 11:30 am (or whenever you return), afternoon tea at 3:00 pm, game drive at 3:30 pm, and dinner when you return), hot water (available all the time through either solar or generator), laundry (same day service – weather permitting), etc. It was a very informative briefing.

We were shown to Tent 5. There are 6 tents (max. 12 guests). Each tent is on a raised platform. They are frames with canvass, and doors (not tent like zip entry). The front deck has views of the Delta (we saw elephants when we arrived), and two safari chairs to laze in. Inside there is a writing desk with 4 different shaped power points (great idea), an easy chair, and twin beds pushed together (only tent 6 is a King bed). Behind the bed is a twin vanity and two large cupboards, and then behind these, a heavy curtain a shower and toilet. A rear door leads to a private raised pathway to an secluded outdoor shower.

The toiletries used are Charlotte Rhys. The towels were very small and did not absorb water well. Washing powder is provided for your ‘smalls’ with a small clothesline on the back walkway. The indoor shower was small, and the shower head did not spurt out enough water. The outdoor shower was much better, and views to die for.

Electricity is available 24 hours a day (with a warning that at night it operates on batteries that have been charged during the day time, and may run out). There is a ceiling fan above the bed. The bed was very very comfortable, with a heavy duvet, and blanket (which were both needed together with a hot water bottle, as the nights were cold).

The tents were extremely comfortable and well appointed. Laundry was collected daily and returned the same evening. One day when we returned for brunch, we were advised that there was no water in the tents, as some elephants had dug up one of the main water pipes. This was however fixed in no time.

We were booked to stay for 4 nights, and extended another 2 nights.

Our day always began at around 5:30 am. After putting on 5 layers of clothes, we would wait on the deck (still dark outside) for one of the guides to come and get us, so we could head to the common area. He would always start at Tent 6, and work down to 1. Within 1 day, all the guests became good friends, and we talked and joked a lot.

Breakfast was buffet style and consisted of porridge, toast, muffins, fresh fruit, juice, yoghurt, cereal, tea and coffee. Some guests had it at the table, and others by the bonfire. At all meals, we always had at least one guide, and some managers (full time and trainee) join us. This is a great idea, as the interaction is invaluable.

6:30 am, we all started heading to the cars. Duba Plains has 3 vehicles (one for private use at US$500 per day), and the other two for all guests. Each one takes 6 guests with a window (they don’t exist) seat. We were offered rain/wind proof ponchos that were lined with a blanket on the inside. These helped ward off some of the cold.

Duba Plains is where Relentless Enemies was filmed. This is a National Geographic documentary filming the interaction of a huge herd of buffalo (1200 +), and two pride of lions – Tsaro and Skimmer. Most of the game drives involved drives through water (at places the whole engine of the land rover was submerged), for up to one kilometre at a time. Game drives were always in the same area (in front of the camp), and involved crossing a bridge over the river. The guides were very competent and skilful drivers, and we never felt unsafe in the cars.

We were at Duba to see the ‘swimming lions’. These cats follow the buffalo through land and water. We went on a total of 12 games drives (6 morning and 6 afternoon).

The Tsaro Pride was very famous for the Duba Boys – two massive male lion brothers. Last year one of the males was killed by a buffalo, and the remaining male lost the Tsaro Pride to a Skimmer male, who is now the dominant male in both prides. On our first morning, we witnessed the lions kill a sub-adult male buffalo. The buffalo lagged behind the herd, and was swiftly killed. One of the young females from Tsaro has been banished from the pride by the Skimmer male, and she was chased away several times by him in the 6 days we were there. Also one of the sons of the Duba Boys – Junior was chased away many times, but once he put up a fight and actually pinned down the Skimmer male, clubbed him across the chest and then ran off. After the kill, the Duba Boy returned, and was chased away by the Skimmer male through water. We followed by vehicle through water, and the chase was thrilling to watch lion run and swim through water. All the game drives were very fruitful. We saw another 5 attempted kills, but with the Skimmer male chasing off junior, the young female, and then honeymooning the pride was dis-jointed. Silver Eye attempted a few times on her own, but the buffalo proved too big and too numerous for her.

On our last morning, we watched the Skimmer male come and take over the killing of a newborn calf. He did a botched up job, and started eating while the calf was alive.

The game drives were awesome. We had Rueben, James and Carlton guide us over the 7 days. We also got to see Aardwolf 3 times (once in the evening, and twice during the day time). Other animals included lots of elephant, Red Lechwe, Tsessebe, wart hogs, and a zillion birds.

Most of our morning game drives ended at around 10:30 – 11:30 am, and we would then head back to camp for Brunch and a siesta.

Brunch always started off with a drink or two, and once all the guests were back, we would go to the Brunch Deck. Brunch consisted of fresh bread, a hot meat dish (pie, etc), a hot vegetable dish and 3 salads. On the table there was a cheese and fruit platter. Brunch was always a communal meal, again with a combination of guides and managers joining us. It was always a jovial affair, and we all talked heaps. The food was not brilliant, and many times the hot dishes would run out. Once we had cold ‘hot’ food, as some guests had an early flight, so ate around 2 hours before us. It would have been good to have more breakfast items (eggs, bacon, sausage, etc.).

After Brunch we would hang around for another drink, and then head to the tent. An outdoor shower, followed by a snooze was the order of the day. There were a couple of days when we needed more water, etc., and as there is no communication in the tents, had to head back to grab some.

At around 3:00 pm we would head back to the common area for afternoon tea. One afternoon, we literally walked into an elephant, and had to head back to the tent, and wait for a guide (James) to come and get us.

Afternoon tea always had a sweet and savoury dish, as well as iced tea and coffee. We were asked what we wanted for our sundowner drink, which was packed into cooler boxes.

We would set of at around 3:30 pm, and usually head back to where we had left the lions in the morning. I would suggest you always carry warm clothing for the evening drives, because when the sun goes down, the temperature drops. The afternoon drives always ended in drinks at sun down (many times in the car next to the lions), and there were always some snacks to go with the drinks.

We would start heading back to camp around 6:30 pm, and always resulted in a night game drive under a very clear sky showing millions of stars. These evening drives were very special.

The guides, not only at Duba Plains, but all the Wilderness Camps are very knowledgeable. They have not only studied and trained their trade, but are so passionate about it. They know birds, animals, grasses, frogs, tree’s, stars, constellations, etc. They made the whole safari experience very special.

We would be back at camp by 7:30 / 8:00 pm. Most guests headed for their tents to ‘freshen’ up. We would always head to the bar to ‘freshen’ up. The camp fire could be seen in the distance on the rive back to camp, and it was very welcoming to sit around it with a drink. Many of the staff would join us around the fire (not with a drink), and they would engage in some really lively conversations and debates. This was very refreshing to get a true perspective of the people of Botswana. Once all the guests were in the common area, an announcement would be made that dinner was ready, and if we could make our way up to the dining table.

Once again, dinner would be on a communal table. Some staff would join us, and there would be interaction between guests and also guests and staff. Dinner was always a 3 course affair, with the starter being pre plated and served at the table. After the starter plates were cleared away, the chef for the evening would come and announce what the main course and desert were for the evening. The main course was always a buffet style meal, consisting of a hot meat dish, a hot vegetable dish, sauces, and other hot vegetable sides. One of the staff members would announce if ladies or the gentlemen would go first and help themselves. You would always have to carry your napkin, as the plates were hot. Dinner was always served with some excellent South African wines (in fact the wines were available at all times). Dinner was always very tasty, and the vegetables extremely fresh. During the wet season (when the water levels are high), fresh produce gets flown in once a week, while dry goods come in by truck every quarter (imagine the forward planning). Once the main course plates were cleared, desert was served at the table, and tea/coffee orders were taken.

Many evenings we had the staff entertain us with songs and dance. These were very special moments. Most guests would retire to bed after dinner, and there was always a guide on hand to escort you back to your tent. A really smart idea was having hot water bottles in the lounge area, stored in a cooler box, so you went back with a hot bottle, and not find a warm/cool bottle left in your bed hours ago.

The nights were cold, but the beds were comfortable, with a huge stack of duvets and blankets. There was a lot of bush noise, but this noise was heaven to our ears.

Our six night stay was extremely memorable. We felt like we were staying at a friends home. We helped ourselves to the bar, and made drinks for other guests. Highlights of Duba would be the staff, the knowledge of the guides, the water, the lion/buffalo interaction, and the camp it self.

Would I go back again? Most definitely. Would I recommend it to my best friend? Without any thought I would, as long as they would take me

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Flight
Duba Plains – Vumbara
Sefofane Air Charters
Cessna Caravan 1-2.
Approx. 7 minutes

The flight arrived over 40 minutes late, and the pilot was in a rush. Within 3 minutes of the door being opened, we were shoved in, and the door was shut with us taxing up the runway. The flight took around 7 minutes, and the disembarkation was also very fast. I would estimate that it took as around 15 minutes from the time we got off the land rover at Duba to getting on the land rover for Little Vumbara.

Little Vumbara Camp – Wilderness Safari’s – 2 nights

Little Vumbara is a water experience. Within the concession it is located in, there are two Premier Camps – Vumbara North and Vumbara South. We were met at the airstrip by Lazarus (Laz), who drove us the 45 minutes to the ‘Boat Shed’. To access Little Vumbara, you park the car at the ‘Boat Shed’, and take a speed boat to a jetty at the camp. The boat ride was always thrilling, and the boats were equipped with huge engines.

We were greeted at the Jetty by around 8 staff, who were all singing a welcome song in Setswana. That was very moving. We met Sarah who was the camp manager, together with other staff.

The common areas at Little Vumbura are larger then Duba Plains. As you come off the jetty, there is a lounge to the left, and further up, a library. To the right is an open area (used for brunch dining), a bar, dining area, and further away to the left a plunge pool, and to the right a start deck and fire. There is also a gift shop, and two common unisex toilets.

We were given a fairly through briefing on the camp, and it operated similarly to Duba Plains. There are also 6 tents here, with number 6 having a King bed, while all the others have twin beds.

We were escorted to our tent (again number 5). Little Vumbara has raised walkways. Everything looked very new.

The tents are made of canvas and wood, with a wooden door. Once you enter, to the left was the twin bed, and to the right a large wardrobe, single leather lounge chair with foot stool, and a twin vanity. In between these areas was a writing desk with the 4 way electricity adapter, and chair. There was also a large deck in front with a sunken area that had a sofa. The views overlooked the water. To the left of the twin vanity was a huge shower that was open (only had meshing) to the views. The shower head was huge. To the right of the twin vanity was the toilet (behind a door), again with nice views. The towels were very plush and large. Laundry was included in the rate. We were told that it would be returned the following day, but we always had ours come back the same evening. The tent was comfortable. The bed was surrounded with mosquito netting, and there was a wall mounted fan.

Like Duba Plains, our daily schedule was up at 5:30 am, continental breakfast at 6:00 am, game drive at 6:30 am, brunch at 11:30 am (or whenever you return), afternoon tea at 3:00 pm, game drive at 3:30 pm, and dinner when you return. Hot water was available all the time through either solar or generator, and there was electricity 24 hours a day.

We did not find the stay here as warm as Duba Plains. Dinner the first night was around the camp fire. The chairs were damp, as was the table linen, cutlery and crockery. There was no common table, so we felt very left out, as there were two main groups staying at the camp who all sat together. Also brunch tables were set up for each group that was there (so 2’s, 3’s, etc.). Our second dinner was communal, and we had 2 English couples from Duba Plains there that night, and we celebrated one couple’s 40th wedding anniversary.

Continental breakfast was the same as Duba Plains. Brunch was slightly more elaborate, with an egg station, and more breakfast items including bacon and very yummy sausages.

We ended up seeing lion, Sable, Elephant, Tsessebe, lots of impala, warthog, among other animals. The bird life was not as intense as Duba Plains. On our first afternoon we went out on a Mokoro (traditional canoe). It was a great experience. We did not see much wildlife, but the polers were excellent guides, and taught as about the day/night water lilies, frogs, the reeds, etc. It was a bit rocky until you got used to it, but the polers kept excellent balance.

Overall it was a good experience.

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Flight
Vumbara – Chobe (Kings Pool airstrip is underwater)
Sefofane Air Charters
Cessna 172.
Approx. 40 minutes

The pilot had arrived early, and had a bit of a go at us for the size of the bags we had, as we were now on a Cessna 172. Sorry mate, our bags were well within the weight allowance, and we were not aware that there were dimensions as well. We flew from Vumbara to Mombo to collect one guest, and then on to Chobe for Kings Pool. The flight was smooth.

Kings Pool Camp – Wilderness Safari’s – 2 nights

We were collected at the airstrip by Alex. We waited another 10 minutes for another flight to come in, and an English couple joined the three of us. As it was already past 3:30 pm, and the Camp was a good 45 minute drive away, Alex suggested that we go on a game drive. We all had no problem with that, and we were off. We saw elephant by the river. On the other side is Namibia.

We got to the camp at around 7:00 pm. The welcome was warm, but not like the other camps. Kings Pool is a Premier Camp. We had a seat in the lounge area. The whole common area is under a huge slopped roof. In the middle is a double sided bar that would fit in well in any major capital city. In front of the bar in the open is a fire deck with a large fixed circular seat around it. To the left of the bar is a dining area, and to the right in the open is a small infinity edged pool. Being in the bush, the whole place felt intimidating. Maybe the Premier Camps attract a particular clientele that likes the uber bling and luxury in the bush???

We were given a quick briefing on the camp, and shown to our tent (number 2). Tents 1-5 are to the left of the bar, and 6-10 on the right. To access them, you walk on raised walkways. At one point, the raised walkway sloped down to ground level, and it was open on either side, to create a walkthrough for hippo (very cool). We passed tent 5, 4 and 3. Near each tent (actually these are not tents, but rooms), they have left of some of the railing to allow elephants to cross (the walkway is at least a meter of the ground).

The door to the room is huge. It swings out, and when you enter, the first thing I saw was the huge size of the room, and the high ceiling. In front were twin beds (the mattresses were very springy and felt old. The pillows were hard and not comfortable to sleep on) swathed in mosquito netting. Behind the bed was a long buffet type table (excellent to leave your cameras, hats, etc.). To the left, adjacent to the door was a writing desk and chair. Beyond that was the bathroom with a twin vanity (Charlotte Rhys toiletries), and a huge double shower (yes two rain shower heads). To the right of the entrance was a cupboard, and a door leading to a toilet with a view. In front of the bed was a lounge area with a leather sofa chair and footstool, as well as a sofa and coffee table. To the left was another writing desk and chair. To the left of the bed, and in front of the bathroom was a deck with a plunge pool, two sun beds, and beyond that was a day bed mattress, and an outdoor shower. The whole place was huge, and plush. Most of the walls were huge windows, and there were 4 doors leading out to the deck from the room and bathroom. I felt we were not shown the bedroom amenities properly, as we had to look for the toilet, and also figure out the laundry basket rules. The views from the room, bathroom and deck were stunning. Overlooking a river and the other side was Namibia.

Electricity was available 24 hours, but there was one tiny plug to charge anything. What I had been advised was to carry my own power board for the safari, which was not needed in the Classic Camps, but in a Premier Camp???

At Kings Pool and we learnt also at other Premier Camps, the guest like a later start then the Classic Camps. Wake up was at 6:00 or 6:30 am, so game drives did not begin till around 7:00 or 7:30 am. Continental breakfast also included eggs and cold meats. The really cool thing at breakfast was the long bench type table where everyone sat facing the river. The juice was fresh, as were the bakery items (buttery, flaky croissants).

Dinner was on a communal table, with a set starter that was served, and then a choice of plated main course, and set desert. Food was not exceptional. Brunch had a choice of buffet salads, cheese, cold meats and desert, with a choice of a plated hot course. It was a nice touch, but not ‘premier’.

The vehicles had three rows of seats with only two seats on each row, that were separated by a large storage bin with a lid in the middle. This was a great place to keep camera bags, jumpers, etc. The game drives in this area were like Vumbara. On our last game drive, as we had a short one, as we were flying out, we were given another guide, as all the other guests wanted to go and see the Savuti channel flow. We decided to leave camp by 6:30 am. In the concession are three camps, and each clearly have their own areas for game drives. On the final morning, we heard on the radio that one of the other camps were following a pride of lion headed in our direction. We came across their vehicles, and a young male and female lion, who were very near around 30 giraffe. The other vehicles got bored and left. All of a sudden the two cats ran off, and we followed. We heard a loud bray and grunt. We came across 3 young males and 2 females, who had just started bringing down a stallion zebra. One of the females jumped on the back, and they started to kill the zebra. We called the other vehicles who took time to get back. Wilderness have a policy where a maximum of three vehicles can be at any one sighting. We saw the best bit, and left graciously to allow other vehicles in, but the kill was over.

One afternoon, I was snoozing on the day bed, when a large bull elephant came grazing. I was woken slowly, and when I looked, the elephant was less then 15 cm on the other side of the woven wooden wall. It is the closest I have been to an elephant. He was not at all fazed by us being there. It was an awesome experience. He had also crossed over the raised walkway where there was no railing.

One of the reasons we stayed at Kings Pool was to experience a Premier Camp. Was it worth it? I would say no. The safari experience was not as raw as the Classic Camps. The place felt colder, more modern, and guests dressed for dinner. The Classic Camps were fun, and much more laid back. The Premier Camps are for some guests, clearly not us. The experience was in no way terrible, but just not what we would want in the bush. Wilderness have clearly made a product that sells to a certain clientele, or market segment, and I would commend them for that.

After two relaxing nights, we left for the airstrip. We had seen lion, a leopard, elephant, ostrich, kudu, impala, tsessebe, bat eared fox, warthog, zebra, and lots of other animals and so many birds. We saw a kill and had a close encounter with an elephant.

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Flight
Chobe (Kings Pool airstrip is underwater) - Maun
Sefofane Air Charters
Cessna 172.
Approx. 40 minutes

We were collected in a Cessna 172, and being experienced in packing flat had no problems on this sector. We were running late by around 40 minutes, and still had to collect two more people. Nearing the second airstrip, we were advised another plane had collected them so we proceeded to Maun. We landed at 2:30 pm, with a connection on Air Botswana to Johannesburg at 3:40 pm. We were assured that Air Botswana would wait for us.
Flight
Maun - Johannesburg
Air Botswana BP 211
Economy Class – BAe-146
Seating Configuration 3-3. Seat 6B
Depart 15:40 Arrive 16:40

There is one check in counter at Maun airport, and the porter from Sefofane charters helped us with check in. We were advised that the incoming flight had come in one hour late, but our flight was on time, however was being routed via Gabarone, as one of the Air Botswana planes was being serviced and they had cancelled the morning flight from Maun to Gabarone.

At security, we lost one of our camera bags on the conveyor belt. There was such a rush, that one of the Sefofane porters had taken it, thinking it was for his client. Good thing we found it on their trolley.

We were one of the last to board the plane, and all the passengers dis-embarking in Gabarone were told that it was free seating for them. The flight was 100% full.

After take off, we were served a packet of Marula sticks (sweet fruit sticks), and then a packet of mixed peanuts and raisins, and then a packet of beef biltong. A drink was also served. Service was quick and efficient.

The flight to Gabarone was around 45 minutes. At Gabarone airport there was a change of crew, and all the passengers for Gabarone dis-embarked. Transit passengers stayed on board. Glasses of water was handed out. After about ˝ an hour, we were told that there was a problem with one of the engines, and could not take off. Some passengers were worried, as they had connecting flights to Cape Town, London, etc. After 15 minutes, the Capitan came on the PA, and announced that there was another plane parked behind us that was leaving for Johannesburg, and they had 30 spare seats. Could connecting passengers please move to that plane. It was a free for all, and most passengers on BP 211, and we had to wait by the side of the plane to identify our luggage and throw it into the back of a pick up.

We then got on board a leased Fokker 28 from Interair, operating Air Botswana flight BP 202. The few passengers on board must have got a shock to see us all get on board, and ruin their peaceful flight. I turned out that too many passengers got off BP 211, so some had to be turned back, and have their luggage off loaded.

We finally took off at 5:30 pm. Flight service was exactly the same as BP 211, and we landed in Johannesburg at 6:00 pm. The Captain told us that BP 211 had managed to take off, and was 15 minutes behind us. We parked at a remote stand, and waited for a bus to take us to the terminal building. We ran to immigration, as a flight had just landed from China and we did not want to get stuck behind them. Immigration was quick.

Bags took around ˝ hour to come through, and customs as usual was a breeze.

D’Oreale Grande Hotel, Emperors Palace – 1 night

We were collected at the airport by a representative of Magic Bus, who had organised our private transfer to the hotel. We needed to go to KLM to change our return tickets, so he showed us where to go. KLM changed our flights, and we were out of the airport waiting for our transfer. The driver took around 15 minutes to get to us, as there was a long queue in the parking lot, and we were at the D’Oreale Grande Hotel within 10 minutes.

D’Oreale Grande Hotel is located within the Emperors Palace Casino complex very close to the airport. There are several hotels there. Dressed in safari clothes, we felt a bit out of place, but no one minded.

I had lost the copy of our reservation voucher, and instead gave my passport at the check in desk. Our reservation could not be found. I called our travel agent, who spoke to the front desk manager. Eventually it was found as it was booked under my first name and not surname. Everyone makes mistakes. For our patience, we were up-graded to a junior suite.

The suite was on the 5th floor. You enter into the lounge room. There is a 3 seater sofa, a single sofa, coffee table, dining table with 4 chairs, a mini bar area (you can ask to have the mini bar stocked) and an entertainment unit. The entertainment unit had its own DSTV (Satellite) decoder, so you could change channels at will (ours was not working, and the maintenance guy had it fixed in less then 5 minutes), Plasma TV screen, DVD and CD player. There was also a cloakroom for the lounge.

The bedroom had a king bed (not comfortable at all) with blankets (not duvet), a separate plasma TV, writing desk and chair. The bathroom was huge with a separate Jacuzzi bath, twin vanity, large power shower and toilet. There were plenty of towels and fluffy robes.

We went to the Emperors Palace Casino complex for dinner. The complex is large, with gaming rooms, slot machines, children’s crèche and lots of restaurants. You could sign back to your room from any of the restaurants, except the fast food places. After having been in the bush for 10 days, the place was very bright, and noisy. Casinos are usually not our cup of tea. We had dinner at Nando’s (perri perri chicken), and then headed back to the room.

The room did not have adequate sound proofing, and in the morning you could hear the aircraft, as well as cars on the highway.

Breakfast was a grand affair. We were shown to the table, but the layout of the buffet was not explained. We had to ask to be served coffee three times, as the waiters seemed to busy talking to each other. The food however was great. Lots of hot items including an egg station, good fruit, juices (not fresh), pastries, waffles and pancakes, sushi, Chinese food, etc.

The hotel has a nice pool area, and gym.

We still had another 2 nights in Johannesburg, but decided against spending time at this hotel, as there was nothing to do except gamble.

tripgirl

road,

Did we overlap our stay with you at LV?

We had Tent 6 and we were there during the stay of the two English couples.

If we did overlap I am so truly sorry I did not introduce myself.

We were there June 8-June11th.

I am going to put together my trip report later this weekend, but we really liked LV and found the camp to really nice. Overall we had a great experience there. Wasn't Sarah so nice and fun to talk to.

We had an extremely close encuonter with an elephant on our last night at LV, right outside our door. Will tell all the juicy details on my trip report, but boy oh boy was that fun!!!

roadwarriorafrica

Hi Tripgirl. Were you there for you wedding anniversary? We were there with the two English couples for their first night.

tripgirl

Yes, we were, actually our wedding anniv was June 13th when we got to Singita, but we used the trip as a way of celebrating at all locations.

Did we overlap.

I am short with long salt and pepper hair and my husband is slender with grey hair.

isabel25

Wow, fabulous report!!!! I love all of the detail. It sounds like you had some truly extraordinary sightings! I've talked to folks who have gone on several trips to Africa and have never witnessed a kill; you saw several.

You really did a great job of explaining why you preferred the classic camps over the premier one. It's great to hear, b/c the premier camps were out of our budget, especially since we're travelling with our thirteen year old. I had always secretly felt that I would enjoy the extra luxury of the premier camp, but after reading your report, I'm happy that we are heading to a Classic one!

I'm surprised that you were able to extend your stay at Duba so easily; I guess they are not as booked up as they claim.

Your description of the the Air Botswana flight from Maun to J'Burg makes me very nervous; we have a fairly tight connection back to the states. Oh well, I guess the worst thing that can happen is that we'll miss our connection and have to stay a few extra days.

Thanks for sharing the details of your wonderful trip!

Dana_M

Wonderful report Road Warrior. I love reading about Duba Plains. Your report brings back fond memories of my trip there last year. Even if you didn't enjoy LV or Kings Pool as much as Duba, you certainly had some excellent game viewing at all of the camps.

roadwarriorafrica

DanaM and Isabel 25 - We safari in Kenya all the time (we live there), and the Classic Camps were more luxurious, friendly and fun then the camps here. The Premier Camps were over the top for us, but many of the clients who were there preferred that level of luxury. I loved the intamacy of the Classic Camps. A lot is also to do with how outgoing you are. Remember that the staff work for 3 months straight, and then get one month leave. If you are outgoing, they love to sit and talk. It is their contact with the outside world. If you can take some chocolate and also newspapers/magazines. The papers can be outdated by a week or two, but it is still news.

Tripgirl, we were the couple from Kenya who had a late night celebrating. Great to see Fodor's works.

tripgirl

Ok.. I'm an idiot.

Of course you are the couple from Kenya and we saw you again on the plane from Botswana.

If I had known you were a fodorite, I would have spent alot more time talking with you.

I know Allan spent time talking with you and found you very fun and fascinating to talk with.

So sorry I was not more forward to talking with you as well.
glad your trip was great. I'm in the mdst of my Report right now.

roadwarriorafrica

your trip report looks interesting so far. good luck in completing it.

tindoo_lindoo

Hello Road Warrior Africa!

We were at Duba Plains with you (4 of us, Gregg, his wife, his sister and her partner) and love your trip report. Your comment that staying at DP was more like staying with friends hits home - we felt the very same way. From Duba we went to Linyanti Tented Camps, which I think would have been very appealing to you - also a Wilderness Safari camp, a bit more rustic than Duba, but also more intimate (or maybe that's because we were the only guests there - awesome!) I can understand your culture shock at Kings Pool - we had the same reaction to Simbambili in Sabi Sands, South Africa, which was our last stop before heading back to the US. Compared to the Botswana camps, this felt more like a Disney theme park than a safari camp. Actually, I think I would classify it as a resort rather than a camp.

We are already planning to return next year to Duba and area, that's how in love we fell with the Wilderness Safaris experience.

Linda

atravelynn

I just read the Duba part so far. Good to know Junior is holding his own. I think of him every now and then. You had some exciting lion activity and it appears you did the traditional game drive time frame, not staying out all day waiting for something to happen. That's great to know because it is less expensive than getting a private guide and hanging out with the lions all day.

atravelynn

I had the same thoughts on the Duba-Vumbura transport. Up and down.

Nice you saw sable at Vumbura.

Your comment that drives start later at 6-Paw camps was the first I knew about that. That is an important point for anyone considering a 6-Paw.

Again 6 nights at Duba was a brilliant idea!

Kavey

Have only read to end of Duba Plains stay so far... really appreciating all the details and of course, your reports on the game viewing... sounds just wonderful!

roadwarriorafrica

Linda - I remember you. Greg and us had a great time on the deck (some were puffing away). You guys were good fun. We were the two from Kenya in Tent 5. Great to hear you had fun on the rest of your trip

We are also trying to get up to 10 nights at Duba next year. Fingers crossed

Lynn - Thanks for the feedback. With the late start on the game drives, we found it was more the guest's preference, and not the camp.

At Duba we found that if we wanted to spend the full day out on the game drive, as long as the other guests in your vehicle were cool about it, then the camp would send brunch to you. If I am not mistaken Linda and her family did that the day before we arrived. (They set the kill up for us).

Kavey - Enjoy the rest of the report

tindoo_lindoo

RWA - you are correct about staying out longer if circumstances warrant it - which is one of the nice features of Wilderness Safaris - they are not tied to a schedule at the expense of the experience. Your point about the passion of the guides is dead-on - Carlton, our guide, did not want to give up on the lions that first day, and finally at 2:00 another Duba jeep came along with a picnic lunch - that was fabulous. That was also the day when I realized that a bandana soaked with water would have been a good item to have, as those jeeps were uncovered!

For the benefit of those following your thread, the day before the kill was very interesting. The buffalo had not been in the area for several weeks, I believe, and re-appeared the first full day we were there. We got to see the various factions of the lion prides as they worked around the herd and each other, and watched a couple of misses (except Skimmer Male did end up with a snack of a still-born calf). Watching the kill the next morning was only one part of the experience - having Carlton explain the nuances of the interactions between the lions, and seeing Skimmer Male taking control of Duba Boy's territory, was fascinating and moving, and a little sad.

Linda