Buenos Aires Restaurants

1. El Cuartito

This iconic pizza parlor is frequented by porteños who worship the pies topped with fresh tomato sauce and a mile-high pile of oozing mozzarella. Every square inch of wall space is dedicated to memorabilia of sports legends, musicians, tango dancers, and actors, and every local has their cherished dining spot. The best pizza is the classic mitad-mitad, or half and half—one side a straightforward tomato sauce and cheese, the other swimming with anchovies. Dessert here is a winner, with the classic flan leading the pack.

2. Restó SCA

A haunt for foodies who adore the creative, contemporary Argentine cuisine and beautiful presentation, there's nowhere better in the neighborhood for lunch or an atmospheric dinner. The star of the lineup is the roasted, stuffed whole quail with squash. Service is very efficient and a top sommelier is in charge of the wine list, heading a young dynamic team.

3. Tomo I

One of the city's more sophisticated dining rooms, Tomo I is a bastion of modern French-Argentine cooking. Dishes lean towards less-is-more, and truly shine with updated versions of classic French dishes, like kid with broad beans.

4. Bengal

Stepping into the wood-paneled dining room, with tables draped in white linens and a ceiling tented with a colorful carpet, you may feel like you've entered a British officers' club from the late 1800s. During the day the clientele seem to be mostly embassy employees and foreign-service workers, which just adds to that atmosphere. At night it changes over to a mix of neighbors and tourists enjoying the offbeat menu that's half Italian and half Indian. For those in the mood for spice, a half-dozen reasonably hot curries are on offer (the fish and prawn curries are the stars). For something milder, pasta is the thing, and the excellent lasagnas are the house specialty. The waitstaff is trained to sell and can sometimes seem a little pushy.

5. Café Tortoni

Take a seat amid the Tiffany lamps and marble-topped tables, and contemplate the fact that you may be sitting in a chair once occupied by a former president, a renowned tango singer, or a world-famous artist or writer while they nibbled an exquisite pastry. The place and setting are from another age, thankfully well preserved, but you may have to wait for a table at the oldest—and highly popular—café in Buenos Aires. Reservations are a must for the dinner-hour tango show.

6. Chan Chan

Peruvian dishes at bargain prices have made a name for Chan Chan. The deep-fried corn kernels they bring while you wait are almost a meal in themselves.

7. Dadá

An intimate and artsy setting are the backdrop for a short but creative menu, which includes house specialties like phyllo-wrapped Morbier cheese salad as a starter and the perfectly cooked ojo de bife (rib-eye steak). Relax, enjoy a glass of wine, read the paper, and eat well.

8. Down Town Matías

On a prominent corner of the downtown business district, Down Town Matías is the flagship of a group of Irish-themed pubs. Drop in at lunchtime for a simple steak with mushroom sauce, a well-prepared piece of fish, or a simple sandwich. Pints of ale on tap and plenty of noise, particularly at dinnertime, are the order of the day. Weekday evenings there's an early happy hour followed by live music, generally local rock groups, which can make dinner conversation a challenge. At the other locations outside of downtown, the ambience is a bit more laid-back, and prices are a touch lower.

9. El Federal

An homage to the rugged terrain of the Argentine wilds, every surface in this downtown eatery seems to be rough wood or tanned leather. Chef Paula Comparatore turns out modern twists on classic regional dishes, often making use of rarely seen ingredients. Her tehuelches, a type of Patagonian empanada named after a near-extinct southern tribe, are among the best in the city, and her classic slow braises of lamb, goat, and beef are simply divine. For those with something lighter in mind, there are indigenous fish preparations and even a vegetarian dish or two.

10. El Globo

Much like the neighborhood in which it resides, El Globo is touristy but good. Hearty pucheros (mixed boiled meat dinners), roast suckling pig, squid, and other Spanish-Argentine fare are served in a large dining area, as they have been since the restaurant opened in 1908. The cazuela de mariscos (seafood stew) is another specialty.

11. El Imparcial

This is the city's oldest restaurant, dating back to the 1860s. The name, which translates as "impartial," was meant to offer up neutral territory for various Spanish and Basque factions that emigrated to the city during the mid-19th century. The menu is a mix of local Argentine fare and classic Spanish dishes. You're not necessarily going to be wowed by anything, but you're also never going to be disappointed. The paella and other rice dishes, particularly those with seafood, are the way to go. At lunchtime there's a three-course prix-fixe menu that comes in at less than the price of an à la carte appetizer. Don't miss the natilla madrileña (custard with caramel) for dessert.

12. El Palacio de la Papa Frita

No frills doesn't mean no charm at this longtime porteño favorite. Steaks, pastas, and salads are the draw, but don't miss the papas soufflés, meaning puffed-up french fries. If you want to go full-tilt local style, order them à la provençal and they'll arrive at your table tossed with minced garlic and parsley. After all, this place and the other three branches around town (Palermo, Recoleta, and another in Centro) aren't called the Palace of the French Fry for no reason.

13. El Palacio de la Papa Frita

14. Filo

Crowded and lively, particularly at lunch, Filo is the place for pasta and wood-oven pizza in the downtown area. The Neapolitan-style pies with thin, charred crusts are among the best in the city. For a real treat, order the Filo, a wheel of a pizza with each slice a different topping according to the pizzero's whims. Pastas are served perfectly al dente—a rarity in town—and come with both classic and creative sauces.

15. Gran Bar Danzón

The city's longest established cocktail and wine bar is a dimly lit lounge that attracts the local wine-geek set as well as hard liquor aficionados. They serve some of the best lounge food in town, including great sushi (don't miss the crispy prawn rolls), appetizers such as ceviche, and a great selection of wines by the glass. Note that it's a two-story climb up steep stairs to get here.

16. Iñaki

When Iñaki first opened its doors, it was one of the city's more expensive Basque eateries. Over time it's kept the price increases to a minimum, and today it's one of the most reasonable spots to enjoy this spectacular Spanish cuisine. Killer paella and fried calamari—not the usual battered version, but a much more elegant dish dusted in herb and pepper flour and flash fried—are among the must-try choices. If you want something a little spicier, order raxo, a delicious pork dish in a red chili sauce that's paired, strangely enough, with french fries. The service is cheerful and helpful.

17. Las Cuartetas

Not known for its decor, this simple spot with tightly packed tables and fluorescent lights is filled with locals who love the coal-fired deep-dish pizza—a style you don't find frequently in this city. It's a great place to go on your own, as solo diners aren't uncommon. Not to be missed is the spinach and white-sauce pizza, a neighborhood favorite. For meat eaters there's the española layered with longaniza sausage, the city's answer to pepperoni. It can take awhile to get the staff's attention, and friendliness is not the first order of the day, but the wait and the attitude won't matter once you sink your fork into one of these slices.

18. Mercado de los Carruajes

Opening at the start of 2022, the long-waited Carriages Market is already being touted as Buenos Aires’ answer to NYC’s Chelsea Market. With more than 40 store fronts housed at this refurbished 19th-century carriage house, this gourmet food and retail marketplace aims to help bring the city center back to life. Stop by for a quick bite, a pint or a glass of wine, and soak up the ambience.

19. Mr Ho

A cheery spot that has lifted Centro’s dining options, this family-run spot serves up delicious and authentic Korean dishes. First generation migrant Martín Ho cooks while daughter Abi runs front of house, and together they run an efficient K-food ship, serving up well-priced soups such as Budae Jjigae as well as popular meaty main Bulgogi. There’s also a wide and tasty selection of veggie dishes too. This is an ideal spot for early eaters as dinner starts at 6 pm and ends at 9:30 pm. 

20. Piola

This old-school pizzeria empire, which now has outposts in a dozen countries, made it big by turning out tasty pizzas, one after another. It's not Argentine-style pizza—the crust is too thin, the sauce too plentiful, and the cheese too sparse—more like an echo of the pizza from the chain's home base in Treviso, Italy. It attracts locals looking for something different and visitors from afar who recognize the name. There's a second branch at Gorriti 5751 in Palermo.