After a long stretch of overtourism, it's now the perfect time to head to Big Sur.
From the gorgeous ocean vistas overlooking rugged, rocky beaches, to the Coast Redwood forests that exist only in a narrow swath along the Pacific coastline, Big Sur is inarguably one of the most beautiful places on Earth.
Long a secret hideaway visited only by those in the know, tourism to Big Sur exploded in the 2010s, culminating in many travel publications, including this one, advising travelers to stay away. “Locals lament the lack of public bathrooms and the disgusting roadside consequences of the scarcity of these facilities, not to mention the illegal camping occurring in a state where the deadliest and most destructive wildfires get deadlier and more destructive each year,” wrote the Fodor’s editors back in November of 2019 in including Big Sur on our 2020 No List. What a difference three years can make.
Only four short months after we wrote that, tourism—and the world—changed forever in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic. Locations that struggled with overtourism were empty. Businesses that had previously made their livelihood on the influx of tourists found themselves in dire straits, with many having to close temporarily.
Despite being an outdoor, road-trip-worthy destination, Big Sur still got hit, says Emily Evans, Public Relations Manager for Monterey County Convention & Visitors Bureau, which includes Big Sur. “Travel restrictions and lockdowns during the pandemic caused a noticeable decline in visitors worldwide, and Big Sur was no exception. While this did alleviate the impact of crowds and traffic at popular stops along the coastline, many hotels faced economic consequences. Big Sur did see temporary closures.”
Recommended Fodor’s Video
Evans adds, though, that Big Sur “was able to rebound well” and things were looking good heading into 2023. Then something happened that nobody in drought-stricken California could have predicted—it rained. And rained. And rained.
In California as a whole, rainfall totals are 167% above average this year, with some parts of the state seeing totals of over 300% above average. And with this much rain hitting landscapes recently ravaged by wildfires, mudslides and road collapses soon followed. California State Highway 1, the only road into or out of Big Sur, was closed for almost two months at the beginning of the year. These slides prevented any access to the town at all—supplies had to be airlifted in.
The good news: The slide north of Big Sur has been cleared and supplies—and tourists—are able to come in. But the road south of Big Sur remains closed due to slides in three separate locations.
“The severe storms this year caused slides along Highway 1, resulting in temporary road closures, predominately blocking access to Big Sur from the south,” Evans explains. “During the storms and in the weeks following, visitation has seen a decline…[and] closures north of Treebones Resort, Limekiln, and Plaskett Creek campgrounds are still in effect.”
A CalTrans news release issued on April 14 states that some sections of CA-1 may be closed for months yet, with an expected reopening of July 14.
Ironically, the road closures mean that now is the perfect time to visit Big Sur.
“Due to the closure of the southern section of Big Sur, potential visitors are likely unaware or hesitant to travel to Big Sur,” Evans says.
While the closure of CA-1 made big news when it happened, the subsequent reopening has been relatively quiet in terms of media coverage. As a result, Big Sur, while far from empty, is about as uncrowded as you’ll ever see it, with lots of hotel and campground vacancies and prices relatively low. This is bound to change once the highway is cleared and word spreads that Big Sur is once again open for business.
Evans expects a strong summer season. “Big Sur remains open and is fully accessible through Monterey County [from the north]. Visitors can enjoy the breathtaking views and the warm hospitality of our hotels, restaurants, and attractions, and still enjoy the splendors of Big Sur. Travelers should stay informed by checking current highway conditions on the CalTrans website. While in Big Sur, remember to leave no trace, camp only in designated areas, and practice responsible travel by taking The Big Sur Pledge.”
How to Get to Big Sur Right Now
Access from Northern California (including San Francisco, Oakland, San Jose, and Monterey airports) is the same as it’s always been—take CA-1 south from Monterey for an hour and you’re there.
From Southern California, things get a little more complicated. Instead of the famous drive up the beautiful coastal highway, you need to take a more circuitous and much less scenic inland route: take Interstate 5 north, then cut west on Route 46, north again on Route 101, and west again on Route 68 into Monterey, before finally taking CA-1 an hour south into Big Sur. Depending on traffic, it’s a bit over 6 hours in the car, which isn’t all that bad when you consider that at the end of it, you’re in one of the most beautiful places in the world.