Dumpling order #7 gives you entry to this 1920s-inspired speakeasy.
As a first-timer in Vancouver, the last thing I anticipated was finding myself inside a secret back-of-the-house restaurant eating wild boar wontons. I’d put little effort into researching my way down the rabbit hole of speakeasies tucked into the heart of the city in favor of quintessential coastal landmarks like Granville Island, but when I was last minute put in charge of finding something off the beaten path, I quietly obliged.
The rise of speakeasies has deadened the allure that created them. Learning of their existence is as easy as typing in “speakeasy in Vancouver” in a search engine. And with your findings comes a tiny bit more digging to find the password to enter such supposedly secret hideouts.
But I’m not here to deglamorize the concept—because it’s what you experience when you step behind the curtain that continues to be quite appealing and, really, otherworldly.
While some speakeasies exist within a larger establishment, where some patrons unknowingly sit at a bustling bar with their beer while others slip past them, through a refrigerator, and into a velvet-laden lair to drink handcrafted cocktails, Blnd Tger doesn’t even look like it could entertain such stealth behind its facade. And that’s where the magic here unfolds.
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Discovering the Hidden Passage
Blnd Tger—the rustic dumpling shop in Vancouver’s Chinatown—looks like nothing more than a takeout joint. Unknowing passersby would be hard-pressed to see the opportunity to slip into anything behind it. Even as a journalist who had done minuscule research to find myself outside of said speakeasy, I was second-guessing my Uber driver’s drop-off location. But there I was, ushering my friends to this tiny storefront, reassuring them and myself that the nonexistent menu item I was about to order would open up a world of possibilities—or at least a door to the elusive Laowai.
Before I tried my luck at ordering the secret menu item I read online would grant me access to the speakeasy behind Blnd Tgr called Laowai, I pinpointed the large menu displayed on the wall behind the counter. The entirety of the offerings consisted solely of dumplings—and there were only six to choose from. Ah, now it makes sense.
I then watched a couple ahead of me nervously look at the employee taking orders, asking her about the speakeasy they heard existed here. The woman shrugged, exuding a dismissive demeanor that made me squirm. While the couple shifted aside to regain their composure, I stepped up, looked at the intimidating, slightly rude employee who asked me, “What can I get for you?” and replied with gumption, “I’ll have the dumpling order number 7.”
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A slight smirk struck her face, immediately shifting the energy exchange between us. Her voice lightened into a hospitable tone as she welcomed us through a comically large freezer door behind the counter. As she rattled off a series of directions to take note of during our experience, my eyes widened with intrigue. This is what a speakeasy should look like, I thought.
Behind the Veil
With a subtle, albeit shaky, shift, the rustic charm of the dumpling shop faded, unveiling the opulent elegance of Laowai. This isn’t your typical speakeasy. The moment you cross the threshold, you’re transported to an opulent enclave reminiscent of 1920s Shanghai, evoking a grandeur seldom seen elsewhere. My group was mesmerized by the flock of painted golden birds seemingly soaring along one wall, along with an illuminated bird lighting fixture cascading from the ceiling.
Within Laowai’s embrace is a surprisingly spatial symphony. Guests can choose from 12 seats at the bar, 20 in the front room, and 30 in the back lounge. There’s also a private room called “Eight” that’s reserved for a lucky 15 guests. Here, off-menu concoctions and novel libations take shape, promising an unparalleled, bespoke drinking experience for those fortunate enough to partake.
A handsome bartender took over for the front-of-house employee. Dressed in a stylish, utility-style apron, he joyfully led us to our table—a plush, emerald green crescent booth right behind the entertainment for the night: a hipster pianist floating off his seat as his fingers pounced on the keys.
We were each given a small booklet that read like a cocktail novel. Every beverage was showcased within its own expansive two-page display, adorned with an intricate catalog of ingredients, flavor profiles, captivating illustrations, and a narrative recounting the tale of the influential historical persona who served as the muse, intricately tied to Shanghai’s effervescent nocturnal landscape. I ordered the Dance Monkey—a rich and bold concoction made with Angel’s Envy bourbon, house-blended peach liqueur, whiskey vinegar, Ms. Betters Mt. Fuji Bitters, and Bittermens Krupnik Honey Bitters.
I wasn’t even hungry until the one-page food menu arrived. Items like “cumin lamb dumplings,” “bison momos,” and the aforementioned “wild boar wontons” danced off the page, imaginatively tantalizing my senses. So we got one of everything. The array of rich meats, tangy, spicy sauces, and sharp, fresh herbs lived up to the hype I had created for myself.
The Unspoken Rules of Laowai
There are a few things to keep in mind if granted access to Laowai. Here, the house rules echo whispers of a bygone era—no phones allowed, a request to preserve the essence of the 1920s speakeasy vibe. I did find a few opportunities to snap pictures (I’ve read that so long as you capture moments discreetly and sans flash, you won’t get kicked out). Admittance during entertainment windows means a mandatory fee will be added per person to the bill. There’s also an ambiguous dress code to “wear proper attire,” which isn’t all that picky but insinuates you don’t look like you just got out of bed or off the beach.
Laowai isn’t a place to show off; it’s a destination so dimly lit that you won’t be able to capture quality photos of your experience for bragging rights. Put down your phone, sidle up to the bar or into a booth with your closest friends, and spend time exploring the odyssey of a cocktail menu before you. Come hungry and indulge in the authentic Chinese cuisine. Open your ears and eyes and enjoy the sights and sounds that celebrate a bygone era and the Chinese culture alike.