Carate is literally the end of the road. The volcanic black-sand beach stretches for more than 3 km (2 miles), with dramatically high surf that's perfect for boogie boarding and body surfing. Swimming is best and safest around low tides. The main entertainment at the beach is watching the noisy but magnificent scarlet macaws feasting on nuts in the beach almond trees that edge the shore. Though remote, lodges now have Wi-Fi and some mobile phone coverage.

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