Fodor's Expert Review Lhardy

Opened in 1839, Lhardy—with its spiral staircase, varnished leather walls, gleaming chandeliers, and marble fireplaces—is one of Madrid's most treasured restaurants, and it maintains much of its original decor despite being acquired by a local restaurant group in 2021. Meals, as always, begin with hot consommé poured from a silver samovar and spiked with a chispín (sip) of sherry and continue with French-inflected dishes, ranging from duck à l'orange to sole in champagne sauce. Though the kitchen is still ironing out a few kinks, the grand museum-like surroundings more than make up for any foibles, especially if you stick to the cava, charcuterie, and pastries in the downstairs bar.