The history of this engaging complex of Renaissance architecture and sculpture begins in 1339, when the Neapolitan nobleman Gualtiero Galeota donated a few houses and a vegetable garden to the Augustinian monks who ministered to the poor neighborhood nearby. The church’s name is a nod to its location near the city’s medieval trash dump, where refuse was burned and, hence, carbonized.
Because San Giovanni is off the path of tour groups, you can absorb its ordered beauty in relative peace. The drama begins with an elliptical, double-run, piperno-stone staircase, which was modeled after a 1707 design by Ferdinando Sanfelice and which is similar to such impressive stairways as the Spanish Steps in Rome. Cross the courtyard to the left of the main entrance and enter the rectangular nave. The first thing you see is the chapel monument to the Miroballo family, which was finished by Tommaso Malvito and his workshop in 1519 for the Marchese Braciglian. Magnificent statues in a semicircular arch set the tone for this repository of first-class Renaissance sculpture.
Dominating the main altar, which has been stripped of its 18th-century Baroque elements, is the 59-foot-tall funerary monument to King Ladislaus and Joan II, finished by Marco and Andrea da Firenze in 1428. A gate underneath it leads to the Ser Caracciolo del Sole chapel, with its rare and beautiful original majolica pavement. The oldest produced in Italy, from a workshop in Campania, it shows the influence of Arab motifs and glazing technique.
The dating of the circular Caracciolo di Vico chapel, to the left of the altar, is the subject of debate. Usually given as 1517, with the sculptural decor complete by 1557, the design (often attributed to Tommaso Malvito) may go back to 1499 and thus precede the much more famous Tempietto in Rome, by Bramante, which it so resembles. Here, impressive 16th-century elements include a splendidly restored Crucifixion by Giorgio Vasari, colorful frescoes by an anonymous master, and an intriguing sculpture of a knight taking a nap in his armor.