La Calcina
Many notables (including Victorian-era art critic John Ruskin) have stayed at this hotel, though they might not recognize it after its series of upscale renovations; it has an enviable location along the sunny Zattere, as well as comfy rooms and apartments with parquet floors, original 19th-century furniture, and firm beds. You can reserve the rooftop altana (wooden terrace) for sunbathing or a private retreat, or enjoy an afternoon tea in one of the lounge's quiet corners with flickering candlelight.