Place des Lices
Enjoy a time-out in the social center of the Old Town, where a symmetrical forest of plane trees shades cafés and restaurants, skateboarders, children, and grandfatherly pétanque players. Also called Place Carnot, the square becomes a very affordable feast for both eyes and palate during the morning Tuesday and Saturday markets. At night, a café seat is as coveted as a quayside seat during the day.
Toward the Vieux Port area, boutiques line Rues Sibilli, Gambetta, and Clemenceau (where you can taste the most decadent tarte tropézienne at Marcel & Cavazza)—you never know when that photographer from Voici will be snapping away at the trendoisie. If you're here on the first weekend in May, check out Les Chefs de Saint-Tropez's ( www.leschefsasainttropez.com) three-day fêtent les producteurs event featuring local produce, culinary demonstrations, tastings, and a chef's pétanque competition.