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Nothing, but nothing, can push you into the current of Parisian life faster than a few hours of shopping. Follow the lead of locals, who slow to a crawl as their eyes lock on a tempting display. Window-shopping is one of this city's greatest spectator sports; the French call it lèche-vitrine—literally, "licking the windows"—which is fitting because many of the displays look good enough to eat.
Store owners here play to sophisticated audiences with voracious appetites for everything from spangly flagship stores to minimalist boutiques to under-the-radar spots in 19th-century glass-roofed passages. Parisians know that shopping isn't about the kill, it's about the chase: walking down cobblestone streets looking for items they didn't know they wanted, they're casual yet quick to pounce. They like being seduced by a clever display and relish the performance elements of browsing. Watching them shop can be almost as much fun as shopping yourself.
And nowhere is the infamous Parisian "attitude" more palpable than in the realm of fine shopping—the more haute the more hauteur.
Parisians are a proud bunch, and they value decorum. So dress to impress—and remember your manners. You must say bonjour upon entering a shop and merci, au revoir when leaving, even if it's to no one in particular. Think of it more as announcing your coming and going. Beyond this, protocol becomes less prescribed and more a matter of good judgment. If a salesperson is hovering, there's a reason; let him or her help you. To avoid icy stares, confidence and politeness go a long way.
As for what to buy, the sky's the limit in terms of choices. If your funds aren't limitless, however, take comfort in knowing that treasures can be found on a budget. And if you do decide to indulge, what better place to make that once-in-a-blue-moon splurge? When you get home and friends ask where you got those to-die-for shoes, with a shrug you'll casually say, "These? Oh . . . I bought them in Paris."
This is a go-to address for top-quality Parisian fashion staples that always look of-the-moment but have the lasting power to remain stylish season after season. Ready-to-wear separates in silk, cotton, wool, cashmere, and leather come in pleasing prints and chic solids that look great on women of all ages. Look for standout leather jackets and well-priced accessories.
These colorful totes are the choice of royals, blue bloods, and the like (clients have included Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Gregory Peck, and the duke and duchess of Windsor). Parisians swear by their durability and longevity; they're large enough to transport a baguette and durable enough for a magnum of champagne. Dog owners won't want to miss the "Le Chic du Chien" boutique farther down at No. 352.
This opulent address is a fitting home for Paris's first—and most famous—perfumer. Still the only Paris outlet for legendary perfumes like Shalimar and L'Heure Bleue, it has added several new signature scents (including Myrrhe et Délires and Cuir Beluga). Personalized bottles in several sizes can be filled on demand, or, for a mere €30,000, a customized scent can be blended just for you. Sybarites will also appreciate Guerlain's makeup, scented candles, and spa featuring its much-adored skin-care line. There's an elegant gourmet restaurant for lunch or tea, too.
The originator of the renowned caramel au beurre salé, Henri Le Roux pairs a Breton pedigree with Japanese flair. Brilliant confections result.
These functional, beautifully designed, and highly flattering separates in neutral tones and toned-down sherbet colors rival the Row for wearability and price. The Shanghai-based brand scours the earth for the most exquisite luxury fabrics for their frankly gorgeous separates, whose classic minimalist designs in top-quality cashmere, wool, silk, and cotton never go out of style.
The clothes from this full-fledged design star rock out bohemian French stylishness. The separates skim the body without constricting: look for layered miniskirts, loose peekaboo sweaters ready to slip from a shoulder, and super full-length shearling vests to pair with slouchy boots. The secondary line, Étoile, offers a less expensive take.
This place isn't called the épicerie du monde for nothing. Izraël is a one-stop shop for any spice under the sun, plus those hard-to-find items you'd otherwise spend days tracking down. Bins overflowing with every variety of candied fruit, nuts, beans, olives, pickles, and preserved fish give this tiny shop the air of an exotic bazaar. You'll also find all manner of canned goods, candies, rare spirits, and baking necessities.
Genin offers great chocolate: not too sweet, with handpicked seasonal ingredients for the velvety ganaches. The tea salon is a great spot to sample one of Genin's masterful takes on classic French pastries and a voluptuous chocolat chaud.
These are last season's models, but no one will guess; savings on these handbags are 30% to 60%.
Master chocolate-maker Jean-Charles Rochoux has several superb collections of artisanal chocolates. His seasonal and holiday sculptures are most impressive with original works for Valentine's Day, Easter, and other chocolate-centric holidays. If you love chocolate-covered strawberries, hit the shop on a Saturday morning. Otherwise, treat yourself to a classic box of everyday favorites.
Forty masterful varieties of chocolate and some of the best pastries in Paris earned Jean-Paul Hévin his world-class chocolatier status. Devotees will be pleased to know that there are several other outposts in the capital, including one nearby at 108 rue St-Honoré. The all-chocolate tartlet is a must.
Jérôme Dreyfuss has captivated Paris with his vibrant hand and shoulder bags that are available in an endless variety of shapes, sizes, and colors, all made with noble materials, including suedes, sparkling and subdued leathers, and the occasional faux-leopard. All are practical and impossibly chic. If you're already a fan, the boutique now has a vintage service in which they buy and sell certain older models.
This is the place for vampy stilettos, strappy flats, and biker boots. Recent Belle de Jour–inspired kitten heels are a nice respite from the famous mile-high styles that put Choo on the map. Beautiful bags, clutches, and small leather items in animal print, reptile, and metallics are deservedly popular.
Representing 100 artisanal perfumers, Jovoy is the largest independent purveyor of fragrances in the world—indeed, the brand calls itself the "embassy of rare perfumes." Owner François Hénin is often on-site expounding on the unique qualities and fascinating histories of different fragrances, some of which date back hundreds of years, and many of which are exclusive to the boutique. The shop also carries fragrances for the home and a range of beautifully packaged scented candles.
This Rue de Sevigné boutique is Paris's touchstone for edgy, up-to-the-second styles. L'Eclaireur's knack for uncovering new talent and championing established visionaries is legendary—no surprise after 30 years in the business. Hard-to-find geniuses, like leather wizard Isaac Sellam, coexist with luxe labels such as Ann Demeulemeester, Jil Sander, and Maison Margiela.
L'Habilleur is a favorite with the fashion press and anyone looking for a deal. For women, there's a great selection from Harley of Scotland, Wax London, and Henrik Vibskov. Men can find elegant suits from Scandinavian designers.
Cheese fans will fall in love with this little shop steps from Les Cave du Louvre, a wine cellar run by the same team. The open plan of the fromagerie allows shoppers to get up close and personal with a wide range of cheeses, from time-tested favorites like Comté and Brie to house specialties like peat whiskey–aged tomme de Savoie. And unlike many other Parisian cheese shops, it's open on Monday. The shop also offers customizable picnic boxes for one to four people that feature a selection of cheeses and charcuterie.
Less artisanal than the other chocolate shops in this neighborhood, the silky ganaches still have subtlety and flavor. See the website for a full list of Paris locations.
LMDW has more than 1,000 items to entice collectors of whiskey, as well as all kinds of fine spirits from around the world, including 400 types of rum.
This enchanting shop dates from 1761 and is the oldest continuously open confectionary in Paris. Though it has gone the way of the chain, with multiple boutiques in Paris, À la Mère de Famille retains its authenticity and is well versed in French regional specialties as well as old-fashioned bonbons, chocolates, marzipan, ice creams, and more.
Working in the vaults of the Viaduc des Arts, this artisan shoemaker crafts fully sur-mesure shoes in the age-old Parisian tradition for discerning buyers. Customers meet with the artisan-designer to decide exactly what they’re looking for and to choose the skins, colors, laces, and other features of their dream shoe. There’s also a selection of ready-to-wear shoes you can try on and take with you.
This shop has the largest selection of wine in one spot in Europe—more than 6,000 wines and spirits from all over the world, ranging from the simple to the sublime. There are expert English-speaking sommeliers on-site to help you sort it all out, as well as a wine-tasting bar, a bookshop, and a restaurant.
With a history that dates back to the 16th century, the Marché St-Germain has undergone many transformations in its lifetime. The current structure of stone arcades, which wrap around an entire city block, was built in 1817. The ground floor of this elegant complex is now home to an Apple store, a Uniqlo, and an appetizing grocery store that connects to a gourmet food court called the marché couvert St-Germain, an indoor space for epicureans. This indoor market is home to greengrocers, a fishmonger, a cheesemonger, a butcher, a florist, and a number of international food stalls. It's open every day except Monday.
Le Monde Sauvage is a must-visit for home accessories. Expect reversible silk bedspreads in rich colors, velvet throws, hand-quilted bed linens, silk floor cushions, colorful rugs, and the best selection of hand-embroidered curtains in silk, cotton, linen, or velvet.
White tea, green tea, black tea, tea from China, Japan, Indonesia, South America, and more: you can expect a comprehensive tea experience here. Try one of the flavored varieties, such as Hammam, a traditional Turkish recipe with date pulp, orange flower, rose, and red berries.
One of the best wine shops in Paris, Les Caves Augé has been in operation since 1850. It's just the ticket, whether you're looking for a rare vintage, a select Bordeaux, or a seductive bubbly for a tête-à-tête. English-speaking experts are on hand to guide you through an excellent collection of small-producer, organic, and natural wines, as well as select grower-producer champagnes.
This small flea market is a hit with the fashion and design set. It specializes in easily portable items (like textiles or clothing) and collectible objects that include books, posters, postcards, and glassware. With tables sprawling along both sides of the sidewalk, there's an extravagant selection—just be sure to bargain with vendors. It's open only on weekends from 8 am to 2 pm, but come early for the real deals as good stuff goes fast.
Dating to 1520s Venice, this venerable bookstore opened in Paris in 1801 and was the first to specialize in English-language books. Its present location, across from the Tuileries Garden on Rue de Rivoli, opened in 1856, and the wooden bookshelves, creaking floors, and hushed interior provide the perfect atmosphere for perusing Paris's best collection of contemporary and classic greats in English and French, plus a huge selection of gorgeous art books.
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