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Nothing, but nothing, can push you into the current of Parisian life faster than a few hours of shopping. Follow the lead of locals, who slow to a crawl as their eyes lock on a tempting display. Window-shopping is one of this city's greatest spectator sports; the French call it lèche-vitrine—literally, "licking the windows"—which is fitting because many of the displays look good enough to eat.
Store owners here play to sophisticated audiences with voracious appetites for everything from spangly flagship stores to minimalist boutiques to under-the-radar spots in 19th-century glass-roofed passages. Parisians know that shopping isn't about the kill, it's about the chase: walking down cobblestone streets looking for items they didn't know they wanted, they're casual yet quick to pounce. They like being seduced by a clever display and relish the performance elements of browsing. Watching them shop can be almost as much fun as shopping yourself.
And nowhere is the infamous Parisian "attitude" more palpable than in the realm of fine shopping—the more haute the more hauteur.
Parisians are a proud bunch, and they value decorum. So dress to impress—and remember your manners. You must say bonjour upon entering a shop and merci, au revoir when leaving, even if it's to no one in particular. Think of it more as announcing your coming and going. Beyond this, protocol becomes less prescribed and more a matter of good judgment. If a salesperson is hovering, there's a reason; let him or her help you. To avoid icy stares, confidence and politeness go a long way.
As for what to buy, the sky's the limit in terms of choices. If your funds aren't limitless, however, take comfort in knowing that treasures can be found on a budget. And if you do decide to indulge, what better place to make that once-in-a-blue-moon splurge? When you get home and friends ask where you got those to-die-for shoes, with a shrug you'll casually say, "These? Oh . . . I bought them in Paris."
A household name in Paris, agnès b. has earned rock-star status among two generations of fashionistas. Her artsy-yet-classic aesthetic translates to a slew of well-made staples for women, men, and children in quality fabrics that you'll mix and match for years to come. Look for the signature striped cotton T-shirts, travel clothes that never wrinkle, and irresistible accessories.
Slinky silhouettes, bare midriffs, sequins, crystals, frills, and furbelows, not to mention plenty of silver, patent leather, and cutouts: in other words, Balmain is not for shrinking violets. This may sound like a break from the couture house's ultrafeminine backstory (a favorite of '50s Hollywood idols), but in the hands of Olivier Rousteing, being feminine translates to being at home in your skin first, then dressing it up—his glamorous, highly Instagrammable flights of fancy are catnip for models, singers, and reality stars. The elegantly minimal boutique in the heart of the Golden Triangle carries the full collection and is a lovely backdrop for these opulent street wear–meets–boudoir fashions.
Like the ready-made Duchamp "artwork" for which it is named, the Broken Arm projects a minimalist cool that puts the concept back in concept store. A hypercurated selection of A-list brands for men and women includes vivid separates from the likes of Martin Margiela, Prada, and the sublime Lemaire. A choice selection of objects and accessories (books, shoes, jewelry, and leather goods) elevates the everyday to art.
Poetically binding thousands of strips of washi (Japanese paper) into handcrafted, one-of-a-kind lighting fixtures has made Céline Wright a familiar name in Paris's art and design community. Her famous "cocoon" lamps reflect artisanal, eco-friendly traditions while evincing a thoroughly modern sensibility.
If new Parisian designer duds are a bit out of your price range, you might consider this classy depot-vente (consignment shop), where chic neighborhood ladies and men deposit last year's barely worn loot. Its clean, artfully displayed stash of A-list designer clothing, accessories, jewelry, scarves, watches, and shoes can be had for half or less than retail, plus some stellar vintage wear is also for sale. Standouts have included a crocodile Hermès Birkin bag, Cartier watches, and a Chanel leather coat.
This is the only hatmaker in Paris where you can see jaunty cloches, fedoras, and flat-topped straw boaters being made with centuries-old techniques in an on-site atelier. Classic models in straw, wool, rabbit felt, or silk in a huge range of colors come in a dozen styles, from a charming pillbox to an elegant wide-brim model so light and graceful it could easily pair with an evening suit or wedding gown.
Do not hesitate to run for that taxi in a pair of superchic pumps, flats, or booties from Patricia Blanchet, which are neither too high nor too low but just the right height. Though the designer doesn't swerve from her five or six basic styles, her beautifully hued leathers, including metallics and exotic skins like pony and stingray, change with the season. Booties may come with metallic piping or colorful insets and cutouts, and are cut low for a sexy peek at the ankle.
Designer Emma François's main inspiration is traveling to faraway places, where she picks up ideas for the textures, prints, and colors of her versatile collection of fashion staples for women. Separates range from neutral basics—a lace inset top or camisole, a wraparound jumpsuit, a knitted cape—to brilliantly colored or natty print sweaters, trousers, blouses, and blazers. The collection is completed with a gently priced line of shoes, boots, scarves, and accessories. The Rue de Charonne concept store, the largest of her Paris shops, also has a gallery featuring the work of French artists and artisans and a selection of handmade textiles, housewares, and jewelry.
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