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Nothing, but nothing, can push you into the current of Parisian life faster than a few hours of shopping. Follow the lead of locals, who slow to a crawl as their eyes lock on a tempting display. Window-shopping is one of this city's greatest spectator sports; the French call it lèche-vitrine—literally, "licking the windows"—which is fitting because many of the displays look good enough to eat.
Store owners here play to sophisticated audiences with voracious appetites for everything from spangly flagship stores to minimalist boutiques to under-the-radar spots in 19th-century glass-roofed passages. Parisians know that shopping isn't about the kill, it's about the chase: walking down cobblestone streets looking for items they didn't know they wanted, they're casual yet quick to pounce. They like being seduced by a clever display and relish the performance elements of browsing. Watching them shop can be almost as much fun as shopping yourself.
And nowhere is the infamous Parisian "attitude" more palpable than in the realm of fine shopping—the more haute the more hauteur.
Parisians are a proud bunch, and they value decorum. So dress to impress—and remember your manners. You must say bonjour upon entering a shop and merci, au revoir when leaving, even if it's to no one in particular. Think of it more as announcing your coming and going. Beyond this, protocol becomes less prescribed and more a matter of good judgment. If a salesperson is hovering, there's a reason; let him or her help you. To avoid icy stares, confidence and politeness go a long way.
As for what to buy, the sky's the limit in terms of choices. If your funds aren't limitless, however, take comfort in knowing that treasures can be found on a budget. And if you do decide to indulge, what better place to make that once-in-a-blue-moon splurge? When you get home and friends ask where you got those to-die-for shoes, with a shrug you'll casually say, "These? Oh . . . I bought them in Paris."
The city's major marché biologique, or organic market, is on Boulevard Raspail between Rue du Cherche-Midi and Rue de Rennes. Bursting with fresh produce, baked items, and eco-friendly products, it's open every Sunday from 9 am to 2 pm. A very delicious nonorganic market operates at this location on Tuesday and Friday, from 8 am to 2 pm.
One of Paris's oldest and most colorful market streets, with its roots in the 12th century, still harbors addresses that hark back to the 18th century. To get the full effect, start at Rue Réaumur, and walk this cobbled pedestrian street all the way to the Forum des Halles, past shops displaying every French delicacy, from cheese and chocolate to oysters and pastry, interspersed with bustling cafés. Stop in at Société des Huîtres d'Étretat (1777), at Nos. 61–63, purveyors of oysters to Marie-Antoinette, or grab a divine pastry at Stohrer (1730) at No. 51.
Once a sordid spot where grifters convened to count the daily take, this minuscule street, tucked away in the up-and-coming Sentier neighborhood in arrondissement 2e, is now foodie central. It all began with the Frenchie empire—takeout, wine bar, and gastronomic restaurant—then their suppliers followed. Now, the cobbled street is lined with chic eateries and purveyors of everything from fresh fish and fruits to tempting breads and pastries, and boasts one of Paris's best gourmet coffee shops (L'Arbre à Café, No. 10).
With a history that dates back to the 16th century, the Marché St-Germain has undergone many transformations in its lifetime. The current structure of stone arcades, which wrap around an entire city block, was built in 1817. The ground floor of this elegant complex is now home to an Apple store, a Uniqlo, and an appetizing grocery store that connects to a gourmet food court called the marché couvert St-Germain, an indoor space for epicureans. This indoor market is home to greengrocers, a fishmonger, a cheesemonger, a butcher, a florist, and a number of international food stalls. It's open every day except Monday.
Paris's largest market is as much an event as a place to shop. Blocks of specialized stalls—including ones devoted to rare wines, regional cheeses, game, seafood, and flowers—cater to scores of Parisian chefs and epicures. It's open Thursday and Sunday 8:30 am to 1:30 pm.
Built in 1799, the city's oldest extant arcade has become a foodie paradise, with no fewer than a dozen gourmet destinations, including Racines, Alstair, Caffé Sterne, and Coinstot Vino wine bar.
This passage is full of eclectic shops selling toys, Asian furnishings, cinema posters, and more. Pain d'Épices, at No. 29, specializes in dollhouse decor.
Across from Passage Jouffroy, Passage Verdeau has shops carrying antique cameras, comic books, and engravings. Au Bonheur des Dames, at No. 8, has all things embroidery.
Near Parc Monceau, this is one of Paris's more vibrant and oldest market streets, dating back to the 1600s. Though some cut-rate boutiques lately encroached, you'll find plenty of the authentic good stuff, from cured Iberian ham to every French specialty under the sun.
This colorful market street near the Jardin des Plantes reflects its multicultural neighborhood: vibrant, with a laid-back feel that still smacks of old Paris. The street market is best on weekends (although it closes Sunday afternoon and Monday as well).
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