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Nothing, but nothing, can push you into the current of Parisian life faster than a few hours of shopping. Follow the lead of locals, who slow to a crawl as their eyes lock on a tempting display. Window-shopping is one of this city's greatest spectator sports; the French call it lèche-vitrine—literally, "licking the windows"—which is fitting because many of the displays look good enough to eat.
Store owners here play to sophisticated audiences with voracious appetites for everything from spangly flagship stores to minimalist boutiques to under-the-radar spots in 19th-century glass-roofed passages. Parisians know that shopping isn't about the kill, it's about the chase: walking down cobblestone streets looking for items they didn't know they wanted, they're casual yet quick to pounce. They like being seduced by a clever display and relish the performance elements of browsing. Watching them shop can be almost as much fun as shopping yourself.
And nowhere is the infamous Parisian "attitude" more palpable than in the realm of fine shopping—the more haute the more hauteur.
Parisians are a proud bunch, and they value decorum. So dress to impress—and remember your manners. You must say bonjour upon entering a shop and merci, au revoir when leaving, even if it's to no one in particular. Think of it more as announcing your coming and going. Beyond this, protocol becomes less prescribed and more a matter of good judgment. If a salesperson is hovering, there's a reason; let him or her help you. To avoid icy stares, confidence and politeness go a long way.
As for what to buy, the sky's the limit in terms of choices. If your funds aren't limitless, however, take comfort in knowing that treasures can be found on a budget. And if you do decide to indulge, what better place to make that once-in-a-blue-moon splurge? When you get home and friends ask where you got those to-die-for shoes, with a shrug you'll casually say, "These? Oh . . . I bought them in Paris."
This shop has been at the heart of the Parisian locavore movement since 2008, when it began uniting innovative chefs with small local producers. Today, Terroirs d'Avenir also caters to individuals, with no fewer than five shops on the tiny Rue du Nil: a bakery (No. 3), butcher shop (No. 6), cheesemonger (No. 8), greengrocer (No. 7), and fishmonger (No. 8). Even if you're not planning a purchase, the picturesque cobbled street is worth a stop for a photo op.
If you don't find something you absolutely love among the color-coordinated racks jam-packed with vintage designer and simply fabulous clothing here, we'll eat our cashmere beret. Look for Hermès, Courrèges, Vivian Westwood, Yves Saint Laurent, and so much more for both men and women. Check out the new arrivals of the week on the website, but don't get there too early, as the boutique is open from 2 pm to 8 pm, Monday through Saturday.
Le Passage des Princes—one of the city’s historic covered passages—is home to Paris’s most comprehensive toy store. Part of a large French chain, the two-level Village JouéClub carries all the usual suspects (Barbie, Disney, Hello Kitty, and the like) plus the better traditional European brands, including Vilac, Moulin Roty, and L'Atelier du Bois. It’s made up of more than 10 “shops,” each of which is dedicated to a different age group or toy genre. Virtually every kind of plaything is here, so be prepared to linger.
Irresistible is the word for this shop's scintillating collection of jewels—from an assemblage of top-echelon international designers—that ranges from the daintiest of diamond rings, bracelets, and necklaces to brilliantly colored stones in edgy settings. This spare boutique, a stone's throw from concept store Merci, may be tiny, but it's had a big impact on fashion jewelry in Paris. If you're looking for a piece to be worn every day or a statement piece that goes from day to night, this is your place. Trunk shows and openings are held at WHITE bIRD's first and larger boutique at 38 rue du Mont Thabor, just off the Rue St-Honoré.
Yamamoto's voluminous, draped, and highly coveted Y's label fully expresses itself in this sleek backdrop of white and chrome. Don't expect a varied palette; the clothing comes mostly in his signature black, with splashes of red, beige, and white. But do expect sophisticated, classic clothes for women and men that never go out of style.
With a knack for pairing gems of varying sizes, brilliance, and texture, Yves Gratas allows each stone to influence the design. Whether it's a spectacular necklace of sapphire beads to be worn long or doubled, or a simple agate sphere tipped in gold and dangling like a tiny planet, these stellar jewels feel like one organic whole.
Located between the Bourse and the Palais-Royal, Galerie Vivienne is the most glorious glass-capped arcade in Paris. The 19th-century beauty is home to an array of interesting boutiques as well as a lovely tearoom (A Priori Thé) and a terrific wineshop (Cave Legrand Filles et Fils).
Parisian chefs have been coming here for their kitchen needs for more than a century, from plates and glasses to pans and wooden spoons. The section for pastry-baking accessories is one of the best in the city. There's also a great selection of white porcelain baking and tableware.
The A.P.C. brand may be antiflash and minimal, but a knowing eye can always pick out its jeans in a crowd. The clothes here are rigorously well made and worth the investment in lasting style. Prime wardrobe pieces include dark indigo and black denim, chic jackets, leather bags, and comfortable shoes. There is a second boutique nearby at 171 bd. St-Germain. Their surplus store at 40 rue Jacob has a sampling of last year's accessories, shoes, and clothing at reduced prices.
A surplus store steps away from Sacré-Coeur, there's no need to wait for sales here; funky classics can always be found for up to 50% off.
AB33 is like a sleek boudoir—complete with comfy chairs and scented candles—and the clothes here are unabashedly feminine. Separates in luxury fabrics from top designers, irresistible silk lingerie, dainty jewelry, and a selection of accessories celebrate that certain French je ne sais quoi.
Paris's Canadian bookstore has books on Canadian history as well as new and secondhand Québécois and English-language novels. The Canadian Club of Paris also organizes regular poetry readings and literary conferences here.
A loyal clientele has been devoted to agnès b. since the clothing brand was created in 1975. The simple-yet-innovative modern designs are paired with lasting quality in pieces like the signature "snap" cardigan available in a variety of colors, fitted T-shirts, and leather bags and jackets that last for decades. Her men's clothing collection is next door at No. 10.
A household name in Paris, agnès b. has earned rock-star status among two generations of fashionistas. Her artsy-yet-classic aesthetic translates to a slew of well-made staples for women, men, and children in quality fabrics that you'll mix and match for years to come. Look for the signature striped cotton T-shirts, travel clothes that never wrinkle, and irresistible accessories.
This brand embodies the quintessential French approach to easy but stylish dressing. There are many branches, and the clothes are also sold in department stores, but for the fullest range go to Rue du Jour, where agnès takes up much of the street (women's and children's wear are at No. 6, menswear at No. 3). For women, classics include sleek black leather jackets, flattering black jersey separates, and trademark wide-stripe T-shirts. Children love the two-tone T-shirts proclaiming their age. And the stormy-gray velour or corduroy suits you see on those slouchy, scarf-clad men? agnès b.
Alexandre Biaggi specializes in lamps, tables, and chairs from the 1920s and 1930s and also commissions pieces from such talented designers as Patrick Naggar and Hervé van der Straeten.
If prices at the boutiques on the Golden Triangle or Faubourg St-Honoré have your head spinning, check out this most exclusive of dépôt-ventes (secondhand shop) for designer accessories that are just as wonderful as new but ever-so-slightly reduced for resale. Brands include the likes of Hermès, Gucci, Chanel, Celine, and Rolex.
This boutique with its own spa sells tailor-made skin-care products popular with top models. Products feature seaweed and trace elements as well as essential oils.
A former model, Anouschka has set up shop in her apartment (open by appointment only, Monday through Saturday) and has rack upon rack of vintage clothing dating from the 1930s to the '80s. It's the perfect place to find a '50s cocktail dress in mint condition or a mod jacket for him. She calls this a "designer laboratory," and teams from top fashion houses often pop by looking for inspiration.
This bright, fuchsia-color store is packed with an international assortment of eclectic objects and items from Antoine & Lili's own clothing line for women. There's a global-rummage-sale feel, with old Asian posters, small lanterns, and basket upon basket of inexpensive doodads, baubles, and trinkets for sale. The clothing itself has simple lines, and there are always plenty of raw-silk pieces to pick from.
Dating back to 1803, Arthus-Bertrand has glass showcases full of designer jewelry (including medals, bracelets, rings, necklaces, pendants, and more) and many wonderful objects to celebrate all kinds of occasions.
Come here for tongue-in-chic interpretations of 18th-century table settings and furniture. You can live out your Baroque or Empire fancies with lots of mahogany and milk-white china sets made in the artisan ceramic workshop—the only one of its kind in Paris. The paper goods come from France's last typographic printer on the outskirts of the city. Moody candles, incense, and bespoke perfumes complete the atmosphere.
Lille-based pâtissier Frédéric Vaucamps riffed on an 18th-century cake recipe called the “merveilleux” and found himself at the helm of a Europe-wide empire. His version of the meringue-based confection replaced the traditional butter cream for an ethereal dome of whipped ganache in modern flavors like praline, speculoos, rose, and coffee feathered with white or dark chocolate shavings. The merveilleux come in four sizes—the smallest can be boxed for gifts. There are also brioches and breakfast pastries and the traditional Lille gauffres, delectable cream-filled waffles. You’ll know his boutique by the giant, glittering chandelier and lines snaking down the sidewalk.
Head to Avant-Scène for original, poetic furniture. Owner Elisabeth Delacarte commissions limited-edition pieces from artists like Mark Brazier-Jones, Franck Evennou, Elizabeth Garouste, and Hubert Le Gall.
Slinky silhouettes, bare midriffs, sequins, crystals, frills, and furbelows, not to mention plenty of silver, patent leather, and cutouts: in other words, Balmain is not for shrinking violets. This may sound like a break from the couture house's ultrafeminine backstory (a favorite of '50s Hollywood idols), but in the hands of Olivier Rousteing, being feminine translates to being at home in your skin first, then dressing it up—his glamorous, highly Instagrammable flights of fancy are catnip for models, singers, and reality stars. The elegantly minimal boutique in the heart of the Golden Triangle carries the full collection and is a lovely backdrop for these opulent street wear–meets–boudoir fashions.
The Bensimon brothers started their brand over 40 years ago with their now iconic “tennis Bensimon,” flat canvas sneakers with rubber soles and tips, which they bought from an army surplus store and dyed in a variety of colors. The shoes were an instant hit, whose popularity has continued to endure, and the brand has since expanded into prêt-à-porter, accessories, and home decor. The simple, classic designs favor cheerful, solid colors, which are wearable day after day and year after year.
One of the more creative French chains for women's clothing, Berenice has made an international splash for its of-the-moment styles, quality fabrics, and the kind of classic tailoring Parisians adore. Separates run the gamut from bold and bright to streamlined and understated, but they're always versatile and suitable for a wide range of ages. Accessories include shoes, belts, and bags in fun materials, like python-print or studded leather.
The company has been making exquisite and expensive men's shoes for more than a century. "Nothing is too beautiful for feet" is Olga Berluti's motto; she even exposes her creations to moonlight to give them an extra-special patina. One model is named after Andy Warhol; other famous clients of the past include the Duke of Windsor, Fred Astaire, and James Joyce.
This is your one-stop shopping destination for all of those dreamy French household textiles beloved by design magazines. Sheets of softest cotton, damask, or linen in gorgeous solid colors or romantic prints feel totally luxurious, and elegant table linens turn any table into a conversation piece. They are worth the investment, as they'll last generations (at the June and January sales, you can nab great bargains at 30%–50% off).
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