The Northeast

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TRAVEL GUIDE

For many Britons, the words "the Northeast" provoke a vision of near-Siberian isolation. Although there are wind-hammered, wide-open spaces and empty roads threading the wild high moorland, the Northeast also has simple fishing towns, small villages of remarkable charm, and historic abbeys and castles that are all the more romantic for their often-ruinous state.

This is also where you'll find two of England's most iconic sights: the medieval city of Durham and the stark remains of Hadrian's Wall.

Even the remoteness can be relative. Suddenly, around the next bend of a country road, you may come across an imposing church, a tall monastery, or a Victorian country house. The value found in the shops and accommodations, the uncrowded beaches ideal for walking, and the general friendliness of the people add to the appeal. Still, outside of a few key sights, the Northeast is off the well-trodden tourist path.

Mainly composed of the two large counties of Durham and Northumberland, the Northeast includes English villages adjacent to the Scottish border area, renowned in ballads and romantic literature for feuds, raids, and battles. Fittingly, Durham Cathedral, the seat of bishops for nearly 800 years, was once described as "half church of God, half castle 'gainst the Scot." Hadrian's Wall, which marked the northern limit of the Roman Empire, stretches across prehistoric remains and moorland. Not far north of Hadrian's Wall are some of the most interesting parts of Northumberland National Park. Steel, coal, railroads, and shipbuilding created prosperous towns such as Newcastle upon Tyne, now one of the country's cultural centers.

The region's hundred or so miles of largely undeveloped coast is one of the least visited and most dramatic shorelines in all of Europe. Several outstanding castles perch on headlands and promontories along here, including Bamburgh, which according to legend was the site of Joyous Garde, the castle of Sir Lancelot of the Round Table.

County Durham. Durham—the first major Northeastern town on the main road up from London—is by far the region's most interesting historic city. Its cobblestone streets and towering cathedral make it a charming place to visit. The city is surrounded on all sides by scenic countryside, ruined castles, and isolated villages.

Newcastle upon Tyne. Linked by seven bridges over the River Tyne, the city of Newcastle upon Tyne and the town of Gateshead together form the region's largest, liveliest, and most cosmopolitan urban hub. It's also home to a number of art highlights, from outdoor sculptures to world-class indoor galleries.

Hadrian's Wall Country. A formidable line of Roman fortifications, Hadrian's Wall was the Romans' most ambitious construction in Britain. The land through which the old wall wanders is wild and inhospitable in places, but that only adds to the powerful sense of history it evokes. Museums and information centers along the wall make it possible to learn as much as you want about the Roman era, while nearby market towns like Hexham make a great base for exploration.

The Far Northeast. Extraordinary medieval fortresses and monasteries line the final 40 miles of the Northeast coast before England gives way to Scotland. Northumbria was an enclave where the flame of learning was kept alive during Europe's Dark Ages, most notably at Lindisfarne, home of saints and scholars. Castles abound, including the spectacularly sited Bamburgh and the desolate Dunstanburgh. The region also has some magnificent beaches, though because of the cold water and rough seas they’re far better for walking than swimming. The three-mile walk from Seahouses to Bamburgh gives splendid views of the Farne Islands, and the two-mile hike from Craster to Dunstanburgh Castle is unforgettable. A bit inland are a few other pretty towns and castles.