You'll need to walk a few miles, and it might be cold and wet, but eventually, you'll indulge in all the oysters you desire at the Wadden Sea National Park.
It is quite chilly in the morning on the Wadden Sea–it’s even cold during the rest of the day, to be honest. But considering it is a portion of the Atlantic Ocean, on the border between Denmark and Germany, it is rather normal for this time of year. What is not normal, or rather I would say, out of the ordinary, is the excursion I am about to undertake: the Oyster Tour is a very particular experience, an original way of exploring the Wadden Sea National Park, one of the most important wetlands in Northern Europe and a UNESCO Heritage site. The area stretches along a coastline of about 300 miles between Blåvandshuk in Denmark and Den Helder in the Netherlands, covering a surface of almost 3,500 square miles with a changing, unique landscape of salt marshes, high sands, mudflats, and dunes.
The meeting is at 9:30 a.m. at the Nature Centre Vadehavscentret, a modern design structure built in 2017 based on a project by award-winning architect Dorte Mandrup. She drew inspiration from the landscape and local tradition to create a beautiful tree building with a straw roof. Huge windows allow light to stream into the white-painted halls and rooms. The place deserves a visit itself, as it houses a very interesting exhibition about migrating birds and the natural environment of this peculiar place.
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Eat Oysters to Help the Environment
The guide is a distinguished gentleman. If it weren’t for the giant binoculars around his neck, he would look like a government official. We all gather around him. The group is quite large and made up of people from all over: a Dutch couple, a Swedish gentleman, many Danes. He explains to us what the excursion consists of, how long it will last, and so on, and above all, he emphasizes what we care most about: we will be able to eat all the oysters we want and take away as many as we can carry.
As a matter of fact, by doing so, we will be doing the environment a big favor: the beds of “Pacific oysters” out there really shouldn’t be there. They were brought here from their original area (Japan and Southeast Asia) as part of an aquaculture project and placed four miles from the coast. Shortly after, they started to multiply and spread, infesting the area, and there was no way to get rid of them. What is nothing less than a gastronomical paradise for us is a plague for the natural environment of the Wadden Sea and one that is rapidly expanding–in 2018, scientists calculated that there were almost 79 short tons of oysters out there, and new banks are continuously forming.
Since 2008, oysters have become a tourist attraction in this area. Every year, from October to the end of March (it is not safe to consume oysters in the summer due to poisonous algae that may accumulate inside the shell), hundreds of oyster lovers travel to the Wadden Sea. In addition to the oyster safaris arranged by the Vadehavscenter, there are other oyster excursions, such as the boat tour on the Mandøpigen, sailing comfortably to the reefs. Participants are equipped with buckets and knives, allowing them to pick the oysters themselves, which will later be served on the boat along with a glass of sparkling wine.
I observe the expressions on the faces of my adventure companions and realize that they, too, can’t wait to contribute to the protection of the environment, so we set off.
Endless Sand Stretches, Birds, and Nordic Light
After a short drive, we reach the dunes that border the coast. In this season, they are powdered with snow, and the dry straws are adorned with drops of frost. The Wadden Sea stretches endlessly before us. The Danish name, Vadehavet, literally means “the sea where you walk,” and the reason is that this portion of sea, formed in the aftermath of the last glaciation about 10,000 years ago, undergoes incredible variations in level. Every day, the tides displace approximately 530 billions gallons of water, uncovering 230 square miles of muddy sand and, indeed, oyster reefs. And you can reach them on foot.
Now the tide is receding, and the guide carefully observes the phenomenon to determine the precise moment when we can move. To reach the oyster banks, it is essential to rely on authorized guides who can calculate the tide times to avoid any possible risks. I assume that everyone living in this area possesses specialized knowledge of the tides. The 27 residents in the tiny village on Mandø island, for instance, must know precisely when they can venture along the Låningsvejen, a muddy track connecting them to the rest of the world, which is submerged by water twice every day. Uncertain tourists can call the owner of the local grocery, an elderly woman who has been living on the island her entire life.
The seabed of sand and mud, known as slik, is soft and not easy to walk on, but the scenery is phenomenal: a flat, infinite, and sparkling expanse. The sky reflects in pools of water covered with a very thin layer of ice, creating the illusion of being surrounded by thousands and thousands of mirrors as far as the eye can see.
During fall and spring, you can enjoy the sight of flocks of geese, ducks, and many other species flying overhead in tight formations. Every year, up to 12 million migratory birds pass through this area, which, according to the Ramsar Convention, is crucial for the survival of tens of populations of 41 migratory waterbird species. For almost a million of these birds, this is the best place in Europe to spend the winter. The number is enormous, but there is an abundance of food for them here, such as mussels and snails. Since the area is protected, there is nothing to fear from hunters or other ill-intentioned individuals.
Walking towards the banks is pure joy for anyone interested in birdwatching. It is possible to spot up to 80 different species of birds, including redshanks, cranes, various sorts of ducks, and white-tailed sea eagles.
An Oyster Lover’s Paradise
I suppose that if I were a bird, I would consider this place a vast pantry. On the other hand, for humans, the Wadden Sea is a respectable pantry too. That is if you enjoy oysters.
After a final effort, we arrive, and around 40 foodies in high boots jubilantly launch themselves into the assault on the oysters. Some of us have a bottle of sparkling wine and lemon for an even tastier experience. Many oysters are quite large, around 6-8 inches (the largest oyster in the world, almost 14 inches, was found here in 2013), and they are very tasty, a true delicacy. After learning how to safely open the shells, we eat and drink to fullness; if we were in a restaurant, they would bring us a bill with many zeros. When we undertake our way back, we leave a trail of open shells behind us, the mother-of-pearl interior sparkling in the pale sunlight in beautiful chromatic contrast with the gray of the reefs.
It’s time to exchange opinions, compare the sizes of our catch, and decide which recipe to follow to prepare the oysters once home. I have always eaten oysters raw, but now I learn that there are several ways of cooking them; for example, on a grill with plenty of butter and parsley. A Danish couple tells me they take the tour every year and bring almost 45 pounds of oysters back home with them. But, they underline, it is not only because of the oysters. They love this amazing tour in the brilliant winter light, the endless flat land stretching towards the horizon, the sounds of the birds, and the feeling of fatigue in their legs. As I walk back in the now dimming light, I can only agree.