3 Best Sights in Vukovar, Slavonia

You'll want to bring a steady set of nerves to this site. During the siege of Vukovar, the top four floors of the hospital were destroyed by consistent bombing, despite being designated as an official safe zone. Staff continued to work in the basement and bomb shelter, helping civilians and soldiers, operating even without running water. After Vukovar fell in 1991, and despite an agreement that the hospital would be safely evacuated, more than 200 people were removed from the hospital by a Serbian militia and brought to Ovčara farm, where they were beaten, tortured, and eventually executed. Others were sent to prisons or refugee camps. Today, the hospital is back in operation while the areas used during that period have been converted into a chilling multimedia museum/memorial. The entrance to the memorial is marked by a giant red cross flag full of holes.

On November 20–21, 1991, more than 200 soldiers and civilians were brought from the hospital to this former agricultural hangar, 4 km (2½ miles) outside the city and surrounded by fields of crops, by a Serbian militia. They were beaten, tortured, and eventually executed at another site 1 km (½ mile) away. The mass grave was exhumed in 1996, and 194 bodies were identified; among the dead were men ranging from 16 to 77 years old, one woman, a prominent radio journalist, and a French volunteer. Ovčara Memorial is a somber powerful site; it respectfully pays homage to the victims as well as conveys the horror that took place here. To get to the site, follow signs along the road to Ilok for 6 km (4 miles) past the Memorial Cemetery of Homeland War Victims, the largest mass grave in Europe since World War II—eventually turning right and driving another 4 km (2½ miles) down a country road.

Visible from everywhere in Vukovar is its most famous symbol: the water tower. Rising 150 feet into the air, the imposing red-brick structure, built between 1963 and 1968, once had a restaurant at the top with lovely views. Though it had no strategic importance, its sheer size made it a frequent target during the siege; it was hit with artillery more than 600 times which put gaping holes on all sides. But it never crumbled, instead coming to symbolize the strength of Vukovar itself.

A massive renovation project began in 2017, and in 2021, after standing empty for more than 25 years, the water tower finally reopened to the public. You can now visit two levels within the structure; the first features a stirring multimedia exhibit about the siege of Vukovar. The second level is the very top of the tower, where you can walk around outside for 360-degree views of the town, the river, and the surrounding fields. The reopening of the water tower is both an impressive and emotional achievement for Vukovar, made even more impactful by the fact that while the interior has been completely rebuilt, the facade remains unrepaired as a constant testament and reminder of the war's destruction.