Rincon and the Porta del Sol

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TRAVEL GUIDE

"La Porta del Sol" is how tourism officials describe the island's western coast—but the Gateway to the Sun is still not nearly as well known as the area around San Juan. Even in Rincón, which has the lion's share of lodging, the beaches are delightfully deserted. And in places like Aguadilla and Isabela, two sleepy towns on the island's northwestern edge, it's easy to find a stretch of shoreline all to yourself.

Since the time of Christopher Columbus, adventurers have been drawn to the jagged coastline of northwestern Puerto Rico. Columbus first stopped here on his second voyage to the Americas in 1493. His exact landing point is the subject of ongoing dispute: both Aguadilla, on the northernmost tip of the coast, and Aguada, just south of Aguadilla, claim the historic landing, and both have monuments honoring the explorer.

Less than a century ago, western Puerto Rico was still overwhelmingly rural, with a few large fruit plantations along the coast and coffee fincas (farms) dotting inland hills. The slow pace of agrarian life began to change in the mid-20th century, as new roads brought development to once-isolated towns. They also brought international surfers, who were amazed to find some of the world's best waves in Rincón, Isabela, and Aguadilla. Now there are top-notch hotels, interesting natural areas to explore, and almost every kind of water sport imaginable.