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Creole cooking is the result of a fusion of influences: African, European, Indian, and Caribbean. It's colorful, spicy, and made up primarily of local seafood and vegetables (including squashlike christophenes), root vegetables, and plantains, always with a healthy dose of pepper sauce. Favorite appetizers include accras (salted
Creole cooking is the result of a fusion of influences: African, European, Indian, and Caribbean. It's colorful, spicy, and made up primarily of local seafood and vegetables (including squashlike christophenes), root vegetables, and plantains, always with a healthy dose
Creole cooking is the result of a fusion of influences: African, European, Indian, and Caribbean. It's colorful, spicy,
Creole cooking is the result of a fusion of influences: African, European, Indian, and Caribbean. It's colorful, spicy, and made up primarily of local seafood and vegetables (including squashlike christophenes), root vegetables, and plantains, always with a healthy dose of pepper sauce. Favorite appetizers include accras (salted codfish fritters), boudin (highly seasoned blood sausage), and crabes farcis (stuffed land crabs). Langouste (lobster), lambi (conch), chatrou (octopus), and ouassous (crayfish) are considered delicacies. Souchy (Tahitian-style ceviche), raw fish that is "cooked" when marinated in lime juice or similar marinades, is best at seafront restaurants. Moules et frites (mussels in broth served with fries) can be found at cafés, both in the Marina in St-François and Bas du Fort Marina. Many of the best restaurants are in Jarry, a commercial area near Pointe-à-Pitre. All restaurants and bars are smoke-free, as decreed by French law.
Diverse culinary options range from pizza and crepes to Indian cuisine. For a quick and inexpensive meal, visit a boulangerie, where you can buy luscious French pastries and simple baguette sandwiches. Look for the recommendable chain Baguet. Good news: while menu prices may seem high, prices include tax and service, but a small extra tip in cash is expected, just as in France. In most restaurants in Guadeloupe (as throughout the Caribbean), lobster is the most expensive item on the menu.
What to Wear: Dining is casual at lunch, but beach attire is not appropriate except at the most laid-back beachside eateries. Dinner is slightly more formal. Long pants, collared shirts, and skirts or dresses are appreciated, although not required. Guadeloupean ladies like to "dress," particularly on weekends, so don't arrive in flip-flops—they'll be in heels.
At this charming hideaway, you'll see the churning sea below and hear waves crashing against the coral rock upon which Le Zawag sits. The interior architecture is all hardwood, with matching furniture and white linen napkins at dinnertime. Primarily a grill, the restaurant's simplicity is reflected in the food offerings. Kids are particularly fascinated when the lobster net is dipped into the tank and the thrashing begins. The catch of the day is fresh from the waters below, often accompanied by creole or tropical-fruit sauces. Creole dishes and sides that were gently contemporized by a French chef, are offered as nightly specials. Presentations are beautifully exotic. And what's a Zawag? Why, that's a tropical fish that swims in the water that guests can gaze upon through the open shutters.
Pointe de la Verdure, Grande-Terre, 97190, Guadeloupe
You may hear that one of the best tables on the island is found at the small hôtel de charme La Rose du Brésil---and the rumor is true. Shellfish abounds here, and desserts are inspired by the island's tropical fruits. First, order a fresh-squeezed lime daiquiri. You will likely want two.
Rte. du littoral, D 203, Marie-Galante, 97140, Guadeloupe
Dining here is truly a departure: the open-air pergola, the blue gates, the pungent aromas, and the bust of Ganesha. Within the paisley-covered menu, you'll find authentic Indian dishes alongside adaptations for other palates. Vegetarians are catered to, with eggplant purée one of the better options. Children may be too stuffed for kulfi, Indian ice cream that's topped here with ginger confit. The welcome here is always warm and the service dignified. The Indian chef-owner, Karious Arthur, has a culinary degree from Paris and worked for years in France. Consistently good, the restaurant is always packed on weekends—so be sure to make a reservation.
This fine-dining restaurant in St-François offers consistently good, Franco-fusion cuisine. The French couple who owned a Parisian restaurant for eight years before setting up shop here don't always extend the same hospitality to English-speaking tourists as to French patrons; but that (and the impractical, silky, maroon napkins) aside, this open-air venue is cozy and inviting with displays of vintage corkscrews and other knickknacks. The wine cave doubles as a bottle shop.
17 Saline Est, Grande-Terre, 97118, Guadeloupe
0590-21–31–14
Known For
Terrine de foie gras with currants
Grilled lobster
Chocolate tart with cassava ice cream
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Thurs. No lunch, Reservations essential
Guests may at first be attracted to the gorgeous views of dive boats going to Pigeon Island but return again and again for food. After climbing the worn yellow stairs, diners take a seat on the open, multilevel deck for a delicious meal and the gorgeous panorama. Fish is fresh off the boat and your best bet here, though meat and poultry are not neglected. The menu is extensive. Select your lobster from a pool. Both servers and managers are friendly and efficient for such a busy place; one or more will be English-speaking. Make a reservation if you want the best view.
Even if there's a downpour, the overhanging gingerbread roof over your terrace table will keep you dry as the food and music keep your spirits high. The family-owned restaurant overlooking crystalline Deshaies Bay is a dream fulfilled, and much of its success is directly related to the varied international experiences of the family members. Emilia, the matriarch who is Portuguese and lived in Angola for years, brings the African decor and name. Vincent Potiron, the patriarch who is French and was a candy maker in Switzerland, is the chef and pastry chef. Daughter Tatiana is the welcoming, English-speaking server. Chef Vincent prides himself on using the freshest fish and produce. Lobster must be ordered in advance, as he orders them only as needed and does a simple preparation with parsley butter. Some diners feel that Savane is expensive, but quality ingredients coupled with creativity make for happy forks.
238 Blvd. des Poissonniers, Basse-Terre, 97126, Guadeloupe
0590-91–39–58
Known For
Pumpkin and sweet potato soup
Chicken with peanut and honey sauce
Ouassous in coconut milk with red curry
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Wed. No lunch in low season. No lunch Mon.–Fri. in high season, Reservations essential
A historic sugar mill is the backdrop for refined French preparations paired with local produce. The lunch menu is a mix of classic restaurant food and lighter dishes. A prix-fixe menu including a main course and a starter or dessert is available. At dinner a more classically French menu, with Caribbean influences, offers both meat and seafood. It is a marriage of tradition and modernity, with rich flavors and Creole specialities. Desserts are dazzling, with the pastry chef turning out towers, sauces, and glacés. On Friday and Wednesday nights, there's piano music in the lounge. Hotel guests also eat breakfast here and on the terrace overlooking the sea. Some dinner tables are now set out there, too.
Rte. de Montauban, Grande-Terre, 97190, Guadeloupe
Chef Xavier Simon is remarkably inventive with fresh local produce and seafood, with grilled lobster the signature dish of his restaurant in Terre-de-Haut. But the menu isn't limited to fish; meat, vegan, and gluten-free offerings are also on the small but ever-changing menu. Much effort has gone into the well-chosen wine list, along with a full range of aged rums from Guadeloupe. Desserts dazzle. Contemporary dinnerware brought from France complements the menu and presentation. Service is on the verandah, where the night sounds of the tropics vie with jazz and French music.
480 Rue de la Savane, Terre-de-Haut, Iles des Saintes, 97137, Guadeloupe
0590-99–50–99
Known For
Verandah dining
Ouassous flambéed in aged rum
Profiteroles
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No lunch, Reservations essential
This small, convivial waterfront restaurant is artsy and fun, with contemporary, original works on the wall, hanging plants, and hip music. But you will also like the excellent French cuisine: fresh grilled fish—plus authentic pomme frites—makes an ideal meal out on the beach terrace. Le choucroute de la mer, a Caribbean-accented version of the Alsatian specialty, is also a great choice: fish, scallops, and mussels in a white wine sauce. Desserts are also divine, but note that soufflés must be ordered in advance. There are two well-priced, three-course, prix-fixe menus (one with lobster) to help keep prices in check.
10 Rue Benoit Cassin, Terre-de-Haut, Iles des Saintes, 97137, Guadeloupe
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