Diving and Snorkeling

Cayman Brac's waters are celebrated for their rich diversity of sea life, from hammerhead and reef sharks to stingrays to sea horses. Divers and snorkelers alike will find towering coral heads, impressive walls, and fascinating wrecks. The snorkeling and shore diving off the north coast are spectacular, particularly at West End, where nearby coral formations attract all kinds of critters. The walls feature remarkable topography with natural gullies, caves, and fissures blanketed with Technicolor sponges, black coral, gorgonians, and sea fans. Some of the famed sites are the West Chute, Cemetery Wall, Airport Wall, and Garden Eel Wall.

The South Wall is a wonderland of sheer drop-offs carved with a maze of vertical swim-throughs, tunnels, arches, and grottoes that divers nickname Cayman's Grand Canyon. Notable sites include Anchor Wall, Rock Monster Chimney, and the Wilderness.

Notable diving attractions around the island include the 330-foot MV Capt. Keith Tibbetts, a Russian frigate purchased from Cuba and deliberately scuttled in 1996 within swimming distance of the northwest shore, accessible to divers of all levels. Many fish have colonized the Russian frigate—now broken in two and encrusted with magnificent orange and yellow sponges. Other underwater wrecks include the Cayman Mariner, a steel tugboat, and the Prince Frederick, a wooden-hulled twin-masted schooner that allegedly sank in the 19th century.

Oceanic Voyagers, a 7-foot-tall bronze statue created by world-renowned marine sculptor Dale Evers, depicts spotted dolphins cavorting with southern stingrays. It was sunk off the Brac's coast near Stake Bay in January 2003 as part of the Cayman Islands' yearlong quincentennial celebration. An artist named Foots has created an amazing underwater Atlantis off Radar Reef.

Other top snorkeling/shore diving spots include the south coast's Pillar Coral Reef, Tarpon Reef, and Lighthouse Reef; the north shore counters with Greenhouse Reef, Snapper Reef, and Jan's Reef.

Brac Scuba Shack. Partners Martin van der Touw, wife Liesel, and Steve Reese form a tremendous troika at this PADI outfit, whose selling points include small groups (10 divers max on the custom Newton 36), flexible departures, valet service, and computer profiles. The 30-foot central console Big Blue takes no more than five divers and does double-duty for deep-sea fishing. Courses range from Discover Scuba through Divemaster Training, as well as such specialties as wreck, nitrox, and night diving. Rates are par for the course ($110 for two-tank dives), but multiday discounts are available. West End, Cayman Brac, KY1-2001. 345/948–8472; 345/925–3215; www.bracscubashack.com.

Reef Divers. Pluses here include five Newton boats from 42 to 46 feet, valet service, and enthusiastic, experienced staff; slightly higher rates reflect the extras. Certified divers can purchase à la carte dive packages even if they aren't hotel guests. They also arrange snorkeling tours. Cayman Brac Beach Resort, West End, Cayman Brac, KY2-2001. 345/948–1642; 345/948–1323; www.reefdiverscaymanbrac.com, www.caymanbracbeachresort.com.