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WHere to drive and where not to drive in N. California?

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WHere to drive and where not to drive in N. California?

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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 06:12 AM
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WHere to drive and where not to drive in N. California?

I am planning our trip to California wine country and San Francisco for June 08. We plan on starting out by
flying into SFO then driving to Carmel then up to Sonoma and Napa. Then back to San Francisco. Most of our route and lodging is planned after much research on the net but I have a couple questions that only someone who lives or is familiar with Ca can answer. I wanted to drive up the coast on Hwy 1 then head east along the Russian River into Santa Rosa. Is this a good idea or will it take much longer and the traffic much heavier?
Also I have not picked a hotel in SF yet. We want something nice with great views.
Thanks for any suggestions.
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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 08:12 AM
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If you take highway 1 from Sausalito to the Russian River, it will take you much longer than taking 101 because it is a narrow very winding road (it probably doubles the distance).
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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 08:12 AM
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For approximate times and distances, use MapQuest.
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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 08:16 AM
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...but Hwy 1 North of the Golden Gate is one of the most spectacular drives in the World. Well worth the time, if you like scenery.
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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 10:36 AM
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If you have the time, take the drive up the coast on Highway 1. It's a little longer as noted in another post, but we found very little traffic along there last April. The scenery however was fantastic. We also drove Highway 1 up to Fort Ross north of the Russian River and that was even more spectacular.

I'm not sure how long it would take driving straight through since we stopped at the Marin Headlands, Point Reyes, and other places along the way for sightseeing and lunch.

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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 10:59 AM
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Others have commented on Hwy 1 from SF to the Russian River - but neglected the road from Carmel to SF. Taking 1 on this leg could be faster than the inland route because of rush-hour traffic between San Jose & SF. It's also quite scenic from Santa Cruz to SF. We drove this section last week (we live within 20 mins of it), and the average speed of our car was around 50 from Santa Cruz to Half Moon Bay - where I recommend you stop (on Main st) for lunch & a little browsing.

Hwy 1 north of the Golden Gate is spectacular, as noted. However, all of Hwy 1 could be completly fogged-in during June.

Stu Dudley
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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 11:35 AM
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Thanks Stu,
I was wondering that exactly. When looking at the route that google maps gave me I thought that in the morning, when I plan on starting out, it might be more traffic inland due to rush hour.
I know Hwy1 will be a great trip but I don't want to be driving into the night. Thanks to all for their comments.
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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 12:24 PM
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No chance you'll leave Carmel in the AM & arrive in Healdsburg (Sonoma Co) after dark in June. That route will probably take you labout 7 hrs if you dawdle a bit along the coast between Santa Cruz (assuming you don't stop in Santa Cruz) & Half Moon Bay, stop in Half Moon Bay for brunch or lunch (we like the sandwiches at the San Benito House), stop for the views at Devil's Slide north of Montara (don't stop at the bathing suit optional beach), stop for the views on the north side of the GG bridge, views from the GG Natl Rec area up-up-up on top of a hill just past the GG bridge (best view in Bay Area, IMO), views at Muir Beach, Stinson Beach, then to jenner & Russian River to Sonoma.

Here is a write-up I did a few years ago.

Head north across the Golden Gate Bridge. Just past the bridge, take the Alexander Av. exit towards Sausalito. When you get to the stop at the end of the freeway off ramp, turn left & go under Hwy 101. Continue on like you are going back across the bridge to SF, but take the road to the right that goes up-hill, just before actually getting on 101. There will be a sign that says you are entering the Golden Gate National Recreational area. Continue up on this road. You will see what is (in my opinion) the best views of San Francisco – The GG Bridge in the foreground & The City behind it.. This area was formerly a military area that is still laced with bunkers, gun turrets, underground tunnels etc. It was opened up in the ‘70s. The views of The City, the Bridge, and the Golden Gate are breathtaking. You can see all the way down the San Mateo Coast from up here. Go all the way to the top and you hit a much smaller one-way road. On the way up, get out & enjoy the sights. The kids will love the bunkers & gun turrets. At the top where the main road ends, there is the largest gun turret, where you can climb up to for an almost 360 degree view. This view is best in the evening when the sun is in a better position to light up the bridge & highlight downtown. If you plan to pass this way again later in the day, skip this venue now & do it later. If there isn’t any fog, perhaps do it now because you never know when the fog will roll in & make viewing impossible.

Return the way you came up to this area. When you get to the junction just past the tunnel under 101, head straight to Sausalito. Just follow your nose (bearing right whenever possible), until you end up on Bridgeway – the main road along the bay in Sausalito. Drive along Bridgeway, enjoying the views back to the City. Sausalito has gotten a little tacky in the last few decades with all it’s mediocre art shops & cheep souvenir stands, but the setting is lovely & there’s some nice architecture. Continue North on Bridgeway until it joins 101 North again (towards San Rafael).

Take the Blithdale exit off 101 to Mill Valley. M.A.S.H. fans will recognize this place as the hometown of B.J. Hunnicut. Keep following Blithdale as it worms around a little in some not-so-picturesque areas before it reaches the center of Mill Valley (you’ll know when you get there). Turn left & park the car where you can. Walk around the area – there are some interesting shops. There’s kind of a central square in town (a good place for a latte if you’re ready for one). The south-west side of the square is Miller Ave. When you’re finished browsing, take Miller Ave. South. Shortly after the double road section of Miller Ave ends, take a right on Shoreline Highway – this is also the famous Ca Highway #1. Follow this to Muir Beach & Stinson Beach. This is a pretty drive. After a couple of miles past the Miller/Shoreline junction, there is a turnoff to Panoramic Hwy and the Muir Woods redwood grove. If you want to visit Muir Woods, do so but remember that it gets overwhelmed with day trippers from SF in the summer.

Continue on Shoreline (Hwy #1) past Muir Beach & on to Stinson Beach. There are some nice views of the ocean along this route. There’s a lookout over Muir Beach.

Stay on Hwy #1 past Stinson Beach. You will start to see a large land mass to your left (ocean side) This is Point Reyes National Seashore, where you could spend several days exploring the wildlife & natural beauty of this area. Drake’s Bay, on the west side of Pt Reyes, is where this Northern California area was first discovered – long before San Francisco Bay was discovered by Spanish explorers. Hwy #1 will go past a long lagoon (Tomales Bay). Just past the lagoon, Hwy #1 will turn inland.

Continue on Hwy 1 past Valley Ford. When it intersects the Bodega Highway, turn right (inland/east) & go to Bodega. This is where Alfred Hitchcock filmed several scenes from “the Birds”, including the schoolhouse scene.

If you are touring in the summer, there is a very good chance that you will be inundated by fog & not much of the coastline will be visible. If you have had enough fog, continue east on the Bodega Highway to Sebastopol. This is actually a nice drive (at the beginning). At Sebastopol, head north on #116 toward the Russian River. Just before Forestville, stop at Kozlowski Farms (on your left) if you want to pick up a sandwich. They have a large selection of jams, jellies, vinegar & other gourmet delights. Continue on #116 until it hits the Russian River at Guerneville (somewhat of an interesting town). Turn right & proceed east along the Russian River on River Road. I will continue to describe the remaining drive in the Wine Country section.

Back at Bodega, if the fog isn’t so bad & you want to see some more coast, stay on Hwy #1 to Bodega Bay. Continue north on #1 until it reaches Jenner. At Jenner, you can go north on #1 to Fort Ross to tour an early Russian fur trading fort – it is quite interesting. After visiting Fort Ross, return to Jenner & head east along the Russian River to Guerneville.

Wine Country
From Guerneville, head east along River Road. Stay on River Road as it crosses over the Russian River just past Hacienda – which will still be River Road. About 4 miles past crossing over the river, turn left on Wohler Road. You will start to see some vineyards now & there are some cute B&Bs close by. Stay on Wohler Rd as it crosses the river (again) on a very narrow 1 way bridge. Just past the bridge, turn right on to Westside Rd towards Healdsburg. You will see lots of vineyards on the way to Healdsburg.

You are now in the Sonoma County Wine growing area. In contrast to it’s more famous neighbor to the east (Napa), you will find the Sonoma wineries more inviting & less hectic – I actually like them better. In the Napa Valley, there are very few wineries where you can take a picnic lunch & spread out on the lawn. In Sonoma, they seem to go out of their way to invite you to use their facilities. On Westside Road, stop at Rochioli (one of the best Chards in Calif), Hop Kiln to see an interesting former kiln turned into a winery, and perhaps Armida, or Mill Creek. Just past Mill Creek winery, Westside Road will turn right (east) to head into Healdsburg just in front of the Madrona Manor. Turn left into the Madrona Manor Hotel, park the car & explore the lovely gardens & the exterior of this fantastic Victorian manor house. Go inside & poke your nose into some of the common rooms & pick up a brochure for your next visit to this area. It has a lovely dining room with excellent cuisine. It’s a popular wedding spot. Exit Madrona Manor and turn left and head north on West Dry Creek Road (not straight to Healdsburg).

You are now in the Dry Creek appellation of Sonoma County & it’s my favorite area in the wine country. Continue north on West Dry Creek Road (there’s a Dry Creek Rd which you will follow later). Stop at Lambert Bridge winery – this is one of the wineries that “invites” you to picnic on their lawn (they have lots of picnic tables). Just past Lambert Bridge winery, turn right on Lambert Bridge Rd & proceed a couple 100 yds to Pezzi King Winery. Stop & explore this winery too (great Zins). Return to West Dry Creek Rd & head north again. Continue on this road until you see a sign for Preston Vineyards. This is another winery that “invites” you to picnic. It has very pretty grounds – explore the outside bread oven, boules court, vegetable garden, flowers, and cats. The tasting room is quite nice – my wife likes their Rose wine. Return to West Dry Creek Road & continue north until the road ends. This is a pretty drive – would you like to own one of the houses near this dead-end? Turn around & head south. Turn left on Yoakim Road & then turn left (north) where it dead ends at Dry Creek Road. Proceed north on Dry Creek Rd & stop at Ferrari-Carano winery. This is the most "extravagant" winery in this area – it received a lot of criticism from locals (we know a few) when it was built. However, it is quite impressive. It has lovely gardens, a large “Tuscan” type villa, and a pretty tasting room (good Sauvignon Blanc). Exit Ferrari Carano & turn right (south) on Dry Creek Road towards Healdsburg. This is another pretty drive.

Healdsburg is our favorite town in the wine country – including anything in Napa. When you go under the freeway (on Dry Creek Rd) turn right when you hit Healdsburg Blvd & continue south until you see the town square – it’s obvious. Park the car & get out & explore. Tour the square & several blocks north & south of the square on Healdsburg Ave. There is a produce market Saturday morning west of the big hotel. This is a wonderful town to spend the night in. There is a new (overdone, in my opinion) large hotel (expensive) on the west side of the square – I think it’s called Healdsburg Hotel or something like that. There is also a B&B on the south side of the square & there are other B&Bs scattered throughout town. For dining in Healdsburg, we like Ravenous, Bistro Ralph, and Charcuterie which are all very popular with the locals. We also like Manzanita. Madrona Manor is less than 5 mins away, by car.

Day 2

If you’re staying near the square in Healdsburg, go to the Downtown Bakery (on the east side of the square) early in the morning & rub elbows with the (lucky) locals. Have a sticky bun &/or a scone. This bakery is very well known throughout the area. There are benches outside the bakery where the “bench bunch” meets each morning to chew the fat.

On to Napa Wine Country

Here is a beautiful drive that will get you to the Napa Valley. Head out north on Healdsburg Ave and once it gets out of town, it will curve to the right and connect with Alexander Valley Rd & passes Jimtown. This route goes through the beautiful Alexander Valley & Knights Valley. Turn right on Hwy #128 towards Calistoga. This section is lovely. Hanna is a nice winery to visit while driving through this area.

Proceed on to Calistoga.

Most tour books describe the Napa Valley thoroughly. As far as driving through this area is concerned, drive down Hwy 128 from Calistoga to Yountville and then east on Yountville Cross Rd to the Silverado trail & go south to Chimney Rock Winery. Turn around go north back to Calistoga on the Silverado Trail. Oakville Cross Rd, Rutherford Cross rd & the others linking #128 with the Silverado Trail are quite pretty.

There are lots of world famous wineries in this areas. I recommend visiting:

Robert Mondavi for the most complete tour on the grape growing & wine making process. Reserve a couple of days ahead at 707 968-2166 www.robertmondavi.com

Berringer for some lovely grounds & a very pretty Victorian “Rhine House”, but they don’t make wine at this site.

Sterling for the best views, but the line for the gondola ride to the tasting room will sometimes have a long wait.

Domaine Chandon to learn how Champagne (sparking wine) is made and for nice grounds & a lovely terrace to buy & taste some champagne & relax.

Neibaum-Coppola for the best gift shop & movie mementos (Francis Ford Coppola owns the winery) and very pretty buildings & grounds.

Silver Oak to taste the best Cabs (if available for tasting).

Clos Pegas for some unusual art & a lawn where you can picnic.

Silverado Vineyards for another good view of the Valley.

There are scads of great restaurants in the area. I find myself going back to:
Terra
Mustards
Martini House
Tra Vigne to wander around & pick up a picnic lunch (not a real fan of the cuisine). The building & grounds are quite nice. If you are not a “foodie”, this probably be the most fun place for a nice dinner in the Napa Valley.

Reserve at least a week ahead for all the above restaurants – perhaps more than 2 weeks ahead on summer weekends. Serious foodies will like Terra & Martini house the most & they are a little more formal. Families with kids will probably prefer Mustards or Tra Vigne.

Stu Dudley



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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 02:13 PM
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Hi Starolife
Sorry for the hijack
But I just want to say to StuDudley you write the best stuff about that section of California keep up the great work your advice is alway right on!

Have Fun
GP
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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 02:59 PM
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Yes, Stu is right on.

I am not sure from your message whether you are trying to land at SFO, then drive to Carmel and then drive to Napa/Sonoma. in the same day.

I would not advise this, you will be driving, not seeing anything.

If this is not the case, each trip is a good day trip from the city.

Here is a day trip I often take guests on.

Driving up Highway 1 to the Russian River and then east you will not run into heavy traffic. On the way you will pass by Muir woods (redwoods). Skip this for now. Then you pass the Point Reyes National Seashore, which is worth a day in itself.

From here, the road skirts Tomales Bsy...stop at the oyster beds...and eventually you come back to the coast at Bodega Bay. Stop here to browse the gourmet food store or have a bite at Lucas Wharf. There may be fishing boats in.

The next ten miles, to the Russian River, you will pass several state beaches, which are accessible. Save yourself until just before you cross the river and take the road down to Goat Rock State Beach. This is where the Russian River enters the ocean and it can be quite spectacular depending upon the winds and the tide.

After crossing the river you can turn right on Hwy 116. When you get to Guerneville, find Armstrong Grove Redwoods State Park, which is why I told you to skip Muir Woods. This is much larger in acreage, has better trees, and you won't run into crowds and tour buses.

From here go to Santa Rosa. Then take the Hwy 12 exit and drive through the Sonoma Valley. There are over 44 wineries in its 18 mile length, if that interests you. Even if you are not into wine, take a short detour to Glen Ellen. The Benziger winery has a very interesting tram tour of its sustainable vineyards.

On to the town of Sonoma, which is built around an historic 11-acre Plaza from the Mexican occupation days. There are still many of the original adobe buildings, now housing boutiques, hotels, restaurants, gift shops. There are several excellent restaurants here...The Girl and the Fig, The General's Daughter, Cafe La Haye.

You are now about 45 minutes from the Golden Gate Bridge.

An alternative, for a spectacular drive, is to turn left after crossing the Russian River, go to the coast at Jenner, and drive Hwy 1 to Fort Ross, which is 10 miles of the most spectacular driving you will ever have. Think of the auto ads on TV where you see an automobile down below, winding high above the ocean on the cliffs.

Fort Ross was a Russian outpost in the 1820's or so to protect their otter fur industry from Spanish intrusion. It is well restored and interesting. Go three miles further north to the Timber Cove Inn and relax in its high-beamed lobby with a cuppa, or something. Great views from here.

You will need to retrace your steps to get back to Jenner and on your way to Santa Rosa, but if you take Timber Cove Road, just across from the Inn, up to the ridge, you can have a pretty drive back down, almost to Jenner, without the curves, for the most part.

I hope this is feasible for you. It would be a great day trip.
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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 03:28 PM
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Thanks to all, especially Stu and JT.
Your info and opinions are exactly what I wanted. I'm not going until June but I wanted to have it all planned by the end of this year. I'm going for my 50th birthday so I don't want to rush it to much but I have to say, I can't wait.
I'll write my adventures when I return.
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Old Jan 6th, 2008, 06:02 PM
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bookmarking...

Stu, what would we do without you? And I already thought you were a God while in Provence.

Thanks.
eholden
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Old Jan 6th, 2008, 09:20 PM
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>>Stu, what would we do without you? And I already thought you were a God while in Provence.>>

Wait a few days. While we've had these storms forcing us inside, I've worked on enhansing my Provence itinerary, and I'll post something about the new version in a day or two.

Stu Dudley


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Old Jan 7th, 2008, 08:02 AM
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We drove north on Hwy 1 from San Francisco and can't reinforce how beautiful the drive is.

Make sure however you have a FULL tank of gas when leaving SF. As I recall, there weren't a tremendous amount of gas options north of the city.
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