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WendyWhy's Big Island Trip Report

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WendyWhy's Big Island Trip Report

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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 04:47 PM
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WendyWhy's Big Island Trip Report

Just got back from 6 days on the Big Island - and I wanted to post my report since it seemed as though the BI doesn't get as much love on these boards as the other Hawaiian islands, especially when you're searching for information to plan your trip!

About the travelers: DH and I are in our mid-late twenties and booked the trip as a way of celebrating our 5th year anniversary and the end of a grueling intern year. We've been to Maui and Oahu - but this was our first time to the Big Island. Since our trip was fairly short, we decided not to visit Hilo, which didn't really sound like our thing anyway. Also, we are definitely budget travelers - so no reviews of the Four Seasons here

Day 1: Flew direct from SFO to Kona on United - and for some reason, United told us that we wouldn't be able to reserve our seats until we got to the airport. We checked in on-line and found out that our seats were thankfully together (unlike other couples we saw) but were in the last row of seats on the plane so we weren't able to fully recline our seats...We tried switching but were told that those were the ONLY seats together on the plane. It seemed so silly - there were couples who sat apart, and even families with children were split up. On the flight back, we were able to reserve our seats together and we had much more leg room and actually able to recline our seats.

We rented our compact car from Alamo. For any car rental, you hop onto a shuttle to take you to the area to pick up your car - very easy, no problems.

We stayed at the Sheraton Resort in Keauhou. It was a perfect location for us because we stayed mostly on the Kona side and it was close to a lot of the places we were most interested in - Places of Refuge, Kahaluu beach, downtown Kona, and a slightly shorter trip to the Volcano. The Sheraton was a really good value - we were upgraded to an ocean front room and had a daily breakfast buffet and luau included in our package. Also, DH had mentioned that it was our anniversary when confirming our reservation and there was a bottle of champagne chilling in our room when we first arrived. The room was not fancy but still very nice - lovely lanai with gorgeous views, little fridge which was convenient. I love their Sweet Sleeper bed too. The lobby is really beautiful and there is a area for viewing manta rays at night from the Crystal Bar. We found the staff to be friendly and helpful.

After checking into the hotel, we stopped at the Wendy's in Keauhou - we were starving and the view was amazing. We also went grocery shopping at the KTA market in the Keauhou shopping center - picked up water, lillikoi ice tea, japanese style crackers/chips, hawaiian sweetbread, and some california rolls and other deli foods for a light dinner later at the hotel.

We viewed the Manta Rays from the Crystal Bar area - it was really amazing when you see the first one. They are huge and kind of ghostly and we could see them from our hotel room as well.

Day 2: The daily breakfast buffet was really convenient for us because we were able to get an early start to the day and not have to think about where to go eat. The breakfast was pretty basic - I would not have paid $18 a person for it - but since it was included, it was great. One morning they had fresh lychees which were yummy, and they have an omelet station but otherwise it was fairly unexciting. On our first full day, we got an early start and wolfed down a big breakfast and drove down to the Volcanoes National Park. To be honest, neither of us were really excited to go...we were tempted to just go the beach and relax but figured it was something we SHOULD do since we were here - and we're glad we did. On the way, we stopped at the Punaluu Black Sand Beach - it was beautiful. The most exciting part happened when we were walking along the beach, enjoying the beautiful view, and then I looked down and screamed bloody murder - I almost walked into a HUGE sea turtle and didn't even realize it was there. We scrambled away and thankfully I don't think the sea turtle was too traumatized about almost being walked on. I am so surprised that the people standing nearby didn't warn us - they seemed pretty amused by my surprise. Of course, after that we kept a respectful distance.

We got to the Volcano National Park by 10AM and drove into the visitors center where a person was sending people away to the Jagger Museum because the parking lot was already full. We managed to find a parking spot anyway and went in to grab a map, asked about the lava flow, & watched a little bit of the movie. We then drove to the Thurston Lava Tube which was a great stop for some cool pictures. We then did the Kilauea Iki hike - the first part through the shaded fern rainforest was easy and beautiful, the rougher part was walking through the caldera,and of course the toughest part was huffing back up through the rainforest again. We drove down Chain of Craters Road and parked close to the area where the hike to the lava starts. We only walked part way when we decided we didn't need to hike all the way to the lava...we got some great shots of the steam coming from the vent and from the ocean where the lava was dropping in.

On our way back, we stopped in Naalehu and went to the Punaluu bake shop - it was a perfect place to stop and had large, clean restrooms. DH appreciated having a place to wash the ick off his face after all the sun and sweaty hiking at the park. Picked up some yummy taro sweetbread, and had some ice cream too (kona coffee and vanilla macadamia nut). YUM. Unfortunately, at this stop we happened to notice a nail in one of the tires - but had no problems switching cars after we got back to Kona - fairly painless and it only took a few minutes.

Definitely a long drive back, but worth it for us - we didn't really have a desire to spend more time at the park and saw most everything we were really interested in. We got back in the late afternoon b/c we didn't want to make the drive back in the dark - lots of curving roads. Took a dip in the pool back at the hotel before driving to Alii drive for dinner. We went to a fish & chips place, and it was surprisingly good - I had calamari and DH had guava chicken. We walked along Alii Drive and watched a volleyball match for a bit before turning in for the night.

Day 3: After breakfast, we went to Kahaluu beach for snorkeling. We were really glad we brought our own snorkels and didn't have to suck on rental equipment. We tested them in a pool before we came so we knew they fit properly. I can't swim so I have to wear a lifevest in the water - I felt self-conscious at first, but I was having so much fun I didn't even care after a minute. The "beach" is basically a black rock - but the water is amazing - tons of brightly colored fish and turtles! I later saw another woman also in a life vest and conmiserated with her about the indignity of not knowing how to swim - even the kids were sans life-vest in the water!

Afterwards we went shopping on Palani Road - I got a really cool muu-muu. Yes, that's right - a muu-muu. It's such a shame that no one wears these anymore - they are so comfortable! I got one in a size small - so it was fitted through the shoulders and the rest of me was swimming in it - it's going to make a really cute house-dress. We had lunch at Bale Vietnamese sandwich shop - I had shrimp summer rolls, and DH had a combo plate with BBQ chicken, a BBQ korean rib, and garlic shrimp - it was so good. Total hole-in-the-wall kind of place but YUM.

That afternoon we hung out at Hapuna Beach and just chilled and watched the sunset. As a non-swimmer, I can only snorkel and DH didn't feel like getting in the water again. For dinner, we went back to Alii Drive and went to Huggo's on the Rocks for a light dinner. I had a thai shrimp pizza and DH had mahi-mahi tacos. They had live music - which was fantastic - this is a great place to relax after an active day of sightseeing.

Day 4: After breakfast, headed to Mauna Kea Beach. Got there about 9:30AM and had no problems parking. This was probably our favorite beach - it's the kind of beach you dream about. Soft sand, palm trees, turquoise water - and because they restrict public access, it's not crowded. The snorkeling was great. We snorkeled along both sides of the beach and both were really good - I saw an eel in addition to all the amazing fish.

After a couple of hours, we drove through Waimea to get to the Waipio Valley for a hourseback ride with Naalapa Stables. During the drive we were pretty nervous because it was really wet and rainy through Waimea - but thankfully the sky was clear by the time we arrived at the Waipio Valley. We met up with the rest of the group and drove down into the valley in a 4WD- the views are incredible. The stable is deep in the valley and it was a 2.5 hour trot through beautiful rainforest and the horses were amazing - they know the route and could probably do it without the guides! You see the taro patches, wild coffee, banana, avocado, coconut & guava trees. The guides' dogs come on the trip - and they are really funny - they love avocado and coconut as much as the horses. There are a few companies that provide this ride - it's a must do in our book. You might find a better deal if you are able to find a coupon in one of the tourist brochures around.

By the time we get back to the hotel, we have just enough time to change clothes before getting down to the Origins Luau at the hotel. We have both been to an excellent luau before (Old Lahaina Luau in Maui) and wouldn't have planned on doing this one - but since it was included in our package, of course we went. You are greeted with a lei, have your picture taken (available for $20 at the end of the luau) and there is a mai-tai hour with open bar. There is a live band playing hawaiian music and someone teaches hula - later they have some kids and women from the audience come to the front to demonstrate...The buffet wasn't spectacular but decent. The great thing about a luau is that you do get to sample a great variety of foods that you might otherwise not get to try. There was poi, lomi lomi salmon, lau lau and kalua pork, huli huli chicken, mahi mahi, salads, tropical fruits, a prime rib station, and a dessert table. The people at our table were over the moon about the food - they thought it was absolutely amazing and were exclaiming about how good it all was. I wish DH and I were as excited about the food but we have fairly high standards - we get to eat at great restaurants at home (SF Bay Area). The pork was salty, the mahi mahi dry, and the dessert table was really underwhelming. The salad and fruits were good - they had lychees and dragonfruit. The prime rib was excellent.

As for the entertainment - it was cheesy but definitely fun. The dancers were great - they performed Tahitian, Maori, and Samoan dances. There was also a flame thrower who did some pretty amazing tricks. Between the dances, the "star," Danny Couch would sing and do a kind-of lounge act - pure kitsch - but still fun. He sang Tiny Bubbles! There was a local family at our table and they had told me that in Hawaii he's very well-known and had previously been part of a famous Hawaiian music band - I had to take their word for it.

Day 5: After a leisurely breakfast, we drove down to the Place of Refuge for my favorite activity - snorkeling. DH says the reason I love snorkeling so much is because I CAN'T swim - so it's that much more exciting for me...to him, it's less of a big deal, plus he's having to constantly keep an eye on me so I don't get into any trouble. We didn't go into the actual Place of Refuge, because I just wanted to play in the water. When you drive towards the park, make a right at the hydrant and park anywhere along the street. The amount of brightly colored fish you see are amazing. You can see the fish from the rocks! We also saw a TON of turtles. Fun, fun.

For lunch, we drove to the Coffee Shack in Captain Cook for the view. Good sandwiches and the coffee you drink is from the beans on that property. The service is slow...but friendly. Afterwards, we went to the pier in Kealakekua Bay. I was too nervous (again, as I can't swim) to try kayaking - so we watched other kayakers and snorkelers. We talked to some folk who had snorkeled without kayaking out and said it was amazing.We could have gotten in the water, but we were all snorkeled out for the day.

Back at the hotel, DH worked out in the fitness room overlooking the ocean while I went for a massage at the spa. The spa is not fancy - it's almost as if it was an afterthought. The women's locker room is the size of a broom closet - no place to fix your hair, makeup or primp. From what I could see, no sauna, no steam room, no nuthin'. Basically you are there for your scheduled service and that's it. That said - my massage was wonderful. The masseur (Michelle) was lovely and it was extremely soothing and relaxing. I enjoyed it and since we were staying at the hotel, I could just pad up the room to get ready for dinner.

Dinner was at the Keei Cafe, which gets rave reviews in the guidebooks and is considered very reasonably priced for the quality of the food. The restaurant is really cute - and we were able to watch the sunset from your table. For our main course, I had the lamb and DH had the catch of the day with a thai red curry sauce on rice. The lamb was good (not the best I've ever had but good). Unfortunately, DH was really not impressed with the fish - it was only OK. We had the bread pudding with ice cream for dessert - DH liked it, I didn't - it reminded me of fruitcake.

After dinner, we went back to Alii Drive for one last stroll. We got a shaved ice at Scandinavian Shaved Ice - lychee and lillikoi with ice cream and topped with li-hing-mui powder - YUM. Sounds weird - but you must try it!

Day 6: Our last breakfast. We were so sad to go! Before heading to the airport we went to Bale again for some sandwiches for the plane - so glad we picked these up - they were SO good. The bread is baked fresh every morning and filled with fresh veggies (daikon, cilantro, carrot) and BBQ chicken in mine, BBQ pork for DH - one sniff, and you know you're in for a real treat.

Again, dropping the car off was easy. The airport is open air so it was hot in the waiting area. DH was pretty psyched to see a few fighter jets (M16?) flying around - we have no idea what they were doing - but it was pretty neat.

Well, that's the end of my report - thanks for letting me relive my vacation. I can't wait to go back!! Feel free to ask any questions!
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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 05:03 PM
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Thanks for posting such a great trip report!! I agree, there aren't a lot of details about some things on the Big Island and you have certainly covered lots of them.

We are also staying at the Sheraton later this month, glad to hear you enjoyed your stay. I've noticed quite a few mixed reviews on Trip Advisor, and have been keeping my fingers crossed...

What did you think about the pool? I read somewhere that it is only around 4 feet deep, do you notice that as a problem for adults swimming? I know you mentioned that you don't swim, but maybe your husband noticed if it was a problem?

Other than hanging out at the Crystal Bar area, are there other seating areas to just sit and relax around the property in the evening?

Any other details that come to mind about the Sheraton would be great!!


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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 05:16 PM
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Thanks for your trip report! We are leaving in four weeks to go to the BI and staying two nights at the Sheraton so it was good to hear you enjoyed your stay. Did you enjoy the pool? Did it feel heated? Nice views? Friendly staff? We are planning on eating at Wendy's too for lunch when we arrive.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 05:31 PM
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Hi Tasha and Ashley - are either of you travelling with kids? Because the pool at the Sheraton is perfect for children. At its deepest it is only about 4 feet. Most of the adults that I saw in the pool were there to keep an eye on their kids. It's a huge pool with a big slide. I think that adults by themselves would get bored pretty quickly - it's too shallow to really do laps or anything like that. The views from the pool area are beautiful - it's a great place to watch the sunset, and you have a nice view of the Keauhou Bay too.

Tasha - There are lots of places to lounge at the hotel. Inside, there's a lounge off the side of the lobby that's perfect for just hanging out with or without a drink, and there are other little areas within the hotel too (by the pool, near a little cafe area, etc).

The staff at the hotel were very friendly - no worries there. I would stay at the Sheraton again in a heartbeat - you guys are going to have a great time. I wish you could take me with you!
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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 05:52 PM
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Thanks alot for the info! We'll post a review of the FS when we return. We really have no right to spend this type of money on a vacation, but it's only for 3 nights. The other 3 is at Kilauea Lodge. Glad the Sheraton was decent. We thought about staying there too for free with Sheraton pts but decided to use them on Lanai instead at The Lodge.

Cheers,
Steve R
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 03:12 AM
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Great trip report! You did a lot of the same things we did on the BI, and we also stayed in the Keauhou area, but at the Keauhou Beach Resort, next to Kahalu'u Beach. I, too, am a non-swimmer snorkeler and always wear my flotation vest. Loved the snorkeling at Kahalu'u and at Place of Refuge.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 03:17 AM
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Wendy,
Yes, we have two "pre-teens" going with us. They are looking forward to the pool and slide; however, they would probably prefer it if the pool were deeper in some areas. I assume it must be where the slide drops?!

We will be spending time at the Maui Westin's pool prior to going to the Big Island, so I think they will get their pool time in ok!!

Did you use a snorkel vest or a standard life vest? I was wondering if we should bring some along for the kids...I was hoping maybe the rental places would carry the blow up snorkel type, but I'm not sure.

Your description of Mauna Kea sounds fantastic, we'll have to be sure to get there on time to get a space. Do you remember about how long it took you to get there from the Sheraton that morning? (Some of us will have to plan for breakfast since we have none included!!)
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 06:13 AM
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We are planning a visit to Big Island in February and enjoyed your report very much. Glad to hear you liked the beach at Mauna Kea. Our tentative plan is 4 nights in a $150 B&B, followed by 2 nights big splurge at one of the Kohala hotels. Leaning towards the Mauna Kea because of the beach. Was the water pretty calm??? I got caught in a riptide on Kauai a couple years ago, so am now VERY TIMID about ocean swimming (..which I love much more than pools)
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 07:35 AM
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Tasha, the snorkel equipment rental shops do have the flotation vests available. You can rent equipment from these shops by the week, vs by the hr/day from the beach vendors. Check out Snorkel Bob's.
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Old Jul 4th, 2005, 12:39 PM
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Hi Tasha and Barbara - About Mauna Kea, it was about 30 min from the Sheraton in Keauhou and the water was really calm the day that I went. I have read that the water CAN get rough - and the water might be different in February...luckily the snorkeling is really close to shore so I didn't have to go too far out. Also, I am sure that renting a vest will be no problem - I saw places that rent that kind of stuff everywhere.
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