Trip Report - NYC, San Francisco, & Sonoma/Napa in 13 days
Mar 23rd, 2009, 03:36 AM
#21
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Days 5-6 – Napa Valley
Our 5th day wasn’t too exciting, since mostly what we did was drive – We had to drop my son’s car off in Oakland for shipping back to Maryland, then cool our heels in San Francisco until my daughter and future son-in-law arrived that night about 8:00. One highlight, though, was checking into the Yountville Inn for a 2-night stay. This is a charming inn with multiple stone buildings on Washington Street in Yountville, walking distances to most places you’d want to go. Our room was very large, with a king bed, sofa, and small dining table with two chairs. We also had a large balcony with patio furniture. We got it through Priceline, but not with their bidding feature, just as a reservation. But their price was $137.50 per night on average, about $50 cheaper than the hotel’s online rates. Before leaving for Oakland, we had lunch at Pizzeria Tra Vigne in St. Helena, which is a great little spot for an inexpensive meal. Outstanding pizza with a crisp thin semolina crust.
The other highlight was picking up DD and FSIL, who had come out for DS1’s graduation. They were a little late getting in at SFO, and the plan was to get dinner in San Francisco before heading back up to St. Helena. They love mexican, and that’s what they wanted, so we went to a place called Regalito in the Mission district, on 18th Street. It was standard mexican restaurant fare, but very good, and everyone enjoyed it. The drive back was a killer. By the time we dropped them off in St. Helena and headed back to Yountville, we were bushed.
Our 2nd and last day in Napa Valley was the day of the graduation at CIA-Greystone in St. Helena. My son was elected to be the welcoming speaker by his class, and his opening speech was really impressive – we were so proud. The remaining speakers were all very good too, and it was a nice ceremony, and only lasted about an hour. The great thing is they followed the ceremony by a served luncheon in the Barrel Room and Greystone. They served a salad followed by grilled hanger steak with braised kale, bacon, and gnocci, with a red wine reduction. We also had sparkling wine at the beginning, and wines with the salad and main courses, followed by desserts served buffet style. All in all, it was the best graduation I’ve been to!
It was a gorgeous day, so the whole group went for tastings at Castello di Amorosa, and Sterling Vineyards, both of which have outstanding views of the valley. Plus Castello’s main building is a very faithful reproduction of a castle built with stone and brick, which is something to behold. Their wines aren’t bad either. Sterling’s buildings are on top of a hill in the middle of the valley, and you have to take a gondola to get up there. It also includes a pretty interesting and informative self guided tour through their facility.
Later we had dinner at Martini House in St. Helena, which was very good, albeit a little slow. Our reservation was for 8:00 and we didn’t leave the place until nearly 11. We didn’t mind the company, however, and the food was excellent. Only problem was, we had to deliver the young folks to a bar in Calistoga, then turn around and drive all the way back to Yountville before turning in. This trip was wearing me out!
Our 5th day wasn’t too exciting, since mostly what we did was drive – We had to drop my son’s car off in Oakland for shipping back to Maryland, then cool our heels in San Francisco until my daughter and future son-in-law arrived that night about 8:00. One highlight, though, was checking into the Yountville Inn for a 2-night stay. This is a charming inn with multiple stone buildings on Washington Street in Yountville, walking distances to most places you’d want to go. Our room was very large, with a king bed, sofa, and small dining table with two chairs. We also had a large balcony with patio furniture. We got it through Priceline, but not with their bidding feature, just as a reservation. But their price was $137.50 per night on average, about $50 cheaper than the hotel’s online rates. Before leaving for Oakland, we had lunch at Pizzeria Tra Vigne in St. Helena, which is a great little spot for an inexpensive meal. Outstanding pizza with a crisp thin semolina crust.
The other highlight was picking up DD and FSIL, who had come out for DS1’s graduation. They were a little late getting in at SFO, and the plan was to get dinner in San Francisco before heading back up to St. Helena. They love mexican, and that’s what they wanted, so we went to a place called Regalito in the Mission district, on 18th Street. It was standard mexican restaurant fare, but very good, and everyone enjoyed it. The drive back was a killer. By the time we dropped them off in St. Helena and headed back to Yountville, we were bushed.
Our 2nd and last day in Napa Valley was the day of the graduation at CIA-Greystone in St. Helena. My son was elected to be the welcoming speaker by his class, and his opening speech was really impressive – we were so proud. The remaining speakers were all very good too, and it was a nice ceremony, and only lasted about an hour. The great thing is they followed the ceremony by a served luncheon in the Barrel Room and Greystone. They served a salad followed by grilled hanger steak with braised kale, bacon, and gnocci, with a red wine reduction. We also had sparkling wine at the beginning, and wines with the salad and main courses, followed by desserts served buffet style. All in all, it was the best graduation I’ve been to!
It was a gorgeous day, so the whole group went for tastings at Castello di Amorosa, and Sterling Vineyards, both of which have outstanding views of the valley. Plus Castello’s main building is a very faithful reproduction of a castle built with stone and brick, which is something to behold. Their wines aren’t bad either. Sterling’s buildings are on top of a hill in the middle of the valley, and you have to take a gondola to get up there. It also includes a pretty interesting and informative self guided tour through their facility.
Later we had dinner at Martini House in St. Helena, which was very good, albeit a little slow. Our reservation was for 8:00 and we didn’t leave the place until nearly 11. We didn’t mind the company, however, and the food was excellent. Only problem was, we had to deliver the young folks to a bar in Calistoga, then turn around and drive all the way back to Yountville before turning in. This trip was wearing me out!
Mar 23rd, 2009, 04:04 AM
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smetz - graduation day sounds wonderful! Too bad ds2 couldn't be there. I'm exhausted from reading about all your driving though! We loved Castello when we were there last fall. Our tour guide gave great info about its construction and I'm still drinking their wines!
Mar 23rd, 2009, 04:18 AM
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Centralparkgirl - we didn't take the tour, just walked around. But I'll bet the tour was very interesting. Before I went there, I thought the building would be sort of a small scale replica or maybe just a facade with a regular building behind it. I was so surprised to find out that it's real, and so large!
Mar 23rd, 2009, 06:08 AM
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Since it was late Saturday night and there are quite a number of clubs in the area around Katz’s, there were plenty of drunk people roaming 2nd Avenue, screaming, urinating in the streets, and being generally obnoxious.
There is a movement in the neighborhood to limit or stop issuing liquor licenses for this very reason. Residets are afraid the area will turn into a Bourbon Street.
These kids are from either the boros or the brubs and think the streets are their bathroom.
There is a movement in the neighborhood to limit or stop issuing liquor licenses for this very reason. Residets are afraid the area will turn into a Bourbon Street.
These kids are from either the boros or the brubs and think the streets are their bathroom.
Mar 23rd, 2009, 06:53 AM
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smetz - the guide thought $40 million was spent on materials alone - much of it imported from Europe. The owner was a fanatic about authenticity. There was a great room inside with beautiful frescoes painted by European artisans (from Italy, I think). You may not have noticed, but there was a section outside done with smaller, more irregular stones. This was to resemble real castles that were built over centuries and during the hard times when materials and money were scarce, villagers were recruited to do the work. And it looked very different from the master stone mason's work. In my TR, I said it reminded me of the building of the cathedral in 'Pillars of the Earth.'
>
Adu - I have to disagree with you on this one. Some may be from the boros and burbs, but many are our own little city raised darlings. When you're drunk, why wait on line for the bathroom when you can pee in the street? In fact, the son of a very close friend got a citation for doing that exact same thing. And he was raised in genteel Carnegie Hill. (he happens to be a good kid, but he was 22 and intoxicated). And I don't blame the residents for being up in arms. If smetz was dining earlier, he would not have seen much of that. Next w/end, we're eating on Orchard St, but since we are so OLD and dining at 7:30, it will be quiet - just the way we like it!
>
Adu - I have to disagree with you on this one. Some may be from the boros and burbs, but many are our own little city raised darlings. When you're drunk, why wait on line for the bathroom when you can pee in the street? In fact, the son of a very close friend got a citation for doing that exact same thing. And he was raised in genteel Carnegie Hill. (he happens to be a good kid, but he was 22 and intoxicated). And I don't blame the residents for being up in arms. If smetz was dining earlier, he would not have seen much of that. Next w/end, we're eating on Orchard St, but since we are so OLD and dining at 7:30, it will be quiet - just the way we like it!
Mar 23rd, 2009, 07:12 AM
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Actually I made a mistake in the exact location - it was more along Houston than 2nd Ave - the guy I saw urinating did it right in a door entrance at the front of a Whole Foods Market! But I had no idea that the area was popular for clubs, and Centralparkgirl is right, if we had gone earlier I'm sure that we'd have a much different impression. I don't think this is a problem limited to New York - we have the same situation in Fells Point and other popular club locations in Baltimore.
Mar 23rd, 2009, 07:26 AM
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Please do not concern yourself with the exact location, Smetz. From Delancy to 14th Street the weekend starts on Thursday night and ends Sunday AM.
CentralParkGirl
If you are on Orchard try Inoteca for a meal on Rivington.
I am sure there are kids from the neighborhood and Manhattan but most are not and how do I know. They ask questions, the hunt in packs, and they just look and dress differently than kids from the neighborhood.
CentralParkGirl
If you are on Orchard try Inoteca for a meal on Rivington.
I am sure there are kids from the neighborhood and Manhattan but most are not and how do I know. They ask questions, the hunt in packs, and they just look and dress differently than kids from the neighborhood.
Mar 24th, 2009, 04:45 AM
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Last Day – Back to San Francisco
Saturday was the last day for our group in California, and since my FSIL had never been to San Francisco before, the plan was to see as much of the area as possible for him. We got a bit of a late start (parents’ fault, not the kids’), but soon headed down Route 29, then across 121 & 37 to 101 south – a route picked by DS1 for maximum scenic value, and it did not disappoint! Going through 121 & 37 in the Carneros area were struck by the rolling hills all covered with vines.
Our first stop was Muir Woods to have a walk through the redwoods. I’ve been here several times, but it’s always very impressive. Only problem was, they had a quiet zone in effect for the Cathedral Grove that day. I’m not sure why you would have a quiet zone for trees (I can certainly understand it in parts of a zoo, for instance), but a quiet zone is like a gauntlet thrown down at my wife and daughter, who proceeded to joke and laugh the whole way through in spite of some disapproving stares from a few of the other tree gazers. I’m just glad my wife’s sister wasn’t there, it would have been worse. Once we escaped from the trees without being sentenced to a Ewell Gibbons reeducation camp, we proceeded to Muir Beach to give FSIL a glimpse of the Pacific. The beach is quite nice, but there was a cold wind blowing off the water. DS1 announced that we could get great views from the top of a bluff that we could climb to on the south side of the beach. The ladies wisely said “Knock yourselves out!” – when I looked up it really didn’t look that far. Well, now I know I’m old. It used to be that when we would go on treks, I’d be setting the pace, with the kids whining and complaining in the back. Now I’m the one whining and complaining! DS1 and FSIL had to stop and wait for me three or four times, probably mortified that I might have a heart attack. For the record, earlier in the week I zipped up the hill on Hyde St in San Francisco from North Point up to Lombard Street without much difficulty. But this was STEEP – although I will say the views were quite something.
On the way into San Francisco we stopped at the park on the north side of the Golden Gate bridge for pictures, then proceeded into town, driving up then down the twisty part of Lombard Street from the west to give FSIL the full effect of those hills. My wife and I had been raving about El Taqueria all week, so DD and FSIL insisted on another trip to the Mission District. I didn’t think it would take too long, but then again I didn’t know about the St. Patrick’s Day parade that day, and the traffic was ridiculous. But we eventually got our last tacos & burritos, and everyone was thrilled. Then it was back to the Fisherman’s Wharf area for hotels, using Taylor Street for hair raising effect in the car. This time I noticed some slippage in the van’s transmission – we did, after all, have five adults in the car plus a ton of luggage since DS1 was essentially moving back to Maryland. In fact, a yellow transmission light came on in the dash, but I figured as long as it wasn’t red we were ok. Nevertheless, I avoided the hills after that.
DD and FSIL got basically the same Priceline deal at the Hyatt which we had gotten at the beginning of the week. DS1, DW and I got a two room suite at Columbus Motor Inn, about 3 blocks south on Columbus, for an average of $118 per night, with free parking. We’ve stayed here a number of times before and it’s not fancy, but they keep the place up very well, the location is tough to beat, and the free parking is worth quite a bit.
Once everyone was settled in we did a brief walking tour of San Francisco, starting up Columbus then across Filbert Street to Coit Tower. What great views, not just from the top of the tower, but from the base too! We then headed down the Filbert Street steps, which go through beautiful back yard gardens, down to Levi Strauss Plaza then out to The Embarcadero. We then walked around Embarcadero to Pier 39 so DD could see the seals. DS1 vehemently objected to walking through Pier 39 toward the former marina now taken over by seals, considering it to be the epitome of all that is wrong with commercialization. He’s right. But I wanted to get in from the wind, so on through the soulless valley of commerce we went, DS1 grumbling all the way. I tell you, my kids are nothing if not independent! It causes me some heartache at times when they don’t want to listen to me, but at the bottom of my gut I know it’s a good thing.
After seeing the seals, we headed over to Fisherman’s Wharf so FSIL could get a sense of the area, and we couldn’t help but stop to eat yet another crab! There were a number of things we didn’t get to see that day, eg Union Square, or ride a cable car, but all in all, FSIL got a pretty decent taste of San Francisco. That evening we headed up into North Beach to try and find a reasonable place to have dinner. DS1 recommended Tommasso's for pizza, and we tried there but the wait was an hour and a half. We also tried an old favorite, L’Osteria del Forno, but that place is so small we knew they’d never be able to seat a party of five without a long wait. We finally found a trattoria on Columbus Ave at about 9:00 that could give us a table without much wait. Honestly I can’t remember the name, but we all had pasta and it was very good, and not expensive at all. Their tiramisu wasn’t bad either, but due to their liquor license they couldn’t serve me a digestif of Sambuca. Ah well, a minor transgression.
What a great trip – how lucky we are to have such places in America. Now back to work to rest up!
Saturday was the last day for our group in California, and since my FSIL had never been to San Francisco before, the plan was to see as much of the area as possible for him. We got a bit of a late start (parents’ fault, not the kids’), but soon headed down Route 29, then across 121 & 37 to 101 south – a route picked by DS1 for maximum scenic value, and it did not disappoint! Going through 121 & 37 in the Carneros area were struck by the rolling hills all covered with vines.
Our first stop was Muir Woods to have a walk through the redwoods. I’ve been here several times, but it’s always very impressive. Only problem was, they had a quiet zone in effect for the Cathedral Grove that day. I’m not sure why you would have a quiet zone for trees (I can certainly understand it in parts of a zoo, for instance), but a quiet zone is like a gauntlet thrown down at my wife and daughter, who proceeded to joke and laugh the whole way through in spite of some disapproving stares from a few of the other tree gazers. I’m just glad my wife’s sister wasn’t there, it would have been worse. Once we escaped from the trees without being sentenced to a Ewell Gibbons reeducation camp, we proceeded to Muir Beach to give FSIL a glimpse of the Pacific. The beach is quite nice, but there was a cold wind blowing off the water. DS1 announced that we could get great views from the top of a bluff that we could climb to on the south side of the beach. The ladies wisely said “Knock yourselves out!” – when I looked up it really didn’t look that far. Well, now I know I’m old. It used to be that when we would go on treks, I’d be setting the pace, with the kids whining and complaining in the back. Now I’m the one whining and complaining! DS1 and FSIL had to stop and wait for me three or four times, probably mortified that I might have a heart attack. For the record, earlier in the week I zipped up the hill on Hyde St in San Francisco from North Point up to Lombard Street without much difficulty. But this was STEEP – although I will say the views were quite something.
On the way into San Francisco we stopped at the park on the north side of the Golden Gate bridge for pictures, then proceeded into town, driving up then down the twisty part of Lombard Street from the west to give FSIL the full effect of those hills. My wife and I had been raving about El Taqueria all week, so DD and FSIL insisted on another trip to the Mission District. I didn’t think it would take too long, but then again I didn’t know about the St. Patrick’s Day parade that day, and the traffic was ridiculous. But we eventually got our last tacos & burritos, and everyone was thrilled. Then it was back to the Fisherman’s Wharf area for hotels, using Taylor Street for hair raising effect in the car. This time I noticed some slippage in the van’s transmission – we did, after all, have five adults in the car plus a ton of luggage since DS1 was essentially moving back to Maryland. In fact, a yellow transmission light came on in the dash, but I figured as long as it wasn’t red we were ok. Nevertheless, I avoided the hills after that.
DD and FSIL got basically the same Priceline deal at the Hyatt which we had gotten at the beginning of the week. DS1, DW and I got a two room suite at Columbus Motor Inn, about 3 blocks south on Columbus, for an average of $118 per night, with free parking. We’ve stayed here a number of times before and it’s not fancy, but they keep the place up very well, the location is tough to beat, and the free parking is worth quite a bit.
Once everyone was settled in we did a brief walking tour of San Francisco, starting up Columbus then across Filbert Street to Coit Tower. What great views, not just from the top of the tower, but from the base too! We then headed down the Filbert Street steps, which go through beautiful back yard gardens, down to Levi Strauss Plaza then out to The Embarcadero. We then walked around Embarcadero to Pier 39 so DD could see the seals. DS1 vehemently objected to walking through Pier 39 toward the former marina now taken over by seals, considering it to be the epitome of all that is wrong with commercialization. He’s right. But I wanted to get in from the wind, so on through the soulless valley of commerce we went, DS1 grumbling all the way. I tell you, my kids are nothing if not independent! It causes me some heartache at times when they don’t want to listen to me, but at the bottom of my gut I know it’s a good thing.
After seeing the seals, we headed over to Fisherman’s Wharf so FSIL could get a sense of the area, and we couldn’t help but stop to eat yet another crab! There were a number of things we didn’t get to see that day, eg Union Square, or ride a cable car, but all in all, FSIL got a pretty decent taste of San Francisco. That evening we headed up into North Beach to try and find a reasonable place to have dinner. DS1 recommended Tommasso's for pizza, and we tried there but the wait was an hour and a half. We also tried an old favorite, L’Osteria del Forno, but that place is so small we knew they’d never be able to seat a party of five without a long wait. We finally found a trattoria on Columbus Ave at about 9:00 that could give us a table without much wait. Honestly I can’t remember the name, but we all had pasta and it was very good, and not expensive at all. Their tiramisu wasn’t bad either, but due to their liquor license they couldn’t serve me a digestif of Sambuca. Ah well, a minor transgression.
What a great trip – how lucky we are to have such places in America. Now back to work to rest up!
Mar 24th, 2009, 05:22 AM
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Smetz - There was a quiet zone in effect too a few weeks ago when I was there with ds. It is for the PEOPLE, not the trees! LOL. I know the exact climb you were talking about at Muir Beach - it nearly killed me and ds had to haul me up (I felt like I became my grandmother). We didn't go to the top because I was looking for Muir Overlook and realized that wasn't it.
Your TR was a delight to read. Do you find the occasions that you and your kids are together like this are less frequent and therefore more precious? I know I do.
Your TR was a delight to read. Do you find the occasions that you and your kids are together like this are less frequent and therefore more precious? I know I do.
Mar 24th, 2009, 05:52 AM
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"It is for the PEOPLE, not the trees! LOL."
Well, I guess that explains the disapproving stares.
But you are right about traveling with the kids. I do find it a little more difficult, mainly because I'm not always in charge anymore. But I have great respect for all of them, and it's so rewarding to see how they are as adults.
Well, I guess that explains the disapproving stares.
But you are right about traveling with the kids. I do find it a little more difficult, mainly because I'm not always in charge anymore. But I have great respect for all of them, and it's so rewarding to see how they are as adults.
Mar 24th, 2009, 08:02 AM
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Wow what a whirlwind! I am so glad you hit some of the places you did both in Napa, Healdsburg and SF. I have recommended Than Long on this board before and always recommend tasting dungeness crab in season here. I love the place you ate in Healdsburg. It has very good Mexican food and is not at all precious. It has been there for ages.
I agree with the posters who spoke to your son in NYC being lucky to have you as parents. And, we are heading back to NYC in the Fall to stay in the Village(we usually stay in Chelsea). Perhaps,we will check out Vinyl. Did you see any grey haired women there
We're headed to DC after NYC in the Fall and then back to NYC. We will look at Megabus as well as Tripper Bus. Thanks.
I agree with the posters who spoke to your son in NYC being lucky to have you as parents. And, we are heading back to NYC in the Fall to stay in the Village(we usually stay in Chelsea). Perhaps,we will check out Vinyl. Did you see any grey haired women there
We're headed to DC after NYC in the Fall and then back to NYC. We will look at Megabus as well as Tripper Bus. Thanks.
Mar 24th, 2009, 08:32 AM
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"Perhaps,we will check out Vinyl. Did you see any grey haired women there "
I wish I could remember for sure, but I think there was a couple in the booth behind us when we left!
As for the taquerias, we've decided to comb the growing hispanic neighborhoods in Baltimore to try to find something akin to what we were able to get in SF.
You know, another thing I can't seem to get around here is good felafel. Whenever we go to NY, that's one of my first lunch stops. This trip, we went to a place called Mamoun's on Astor Place in the East Village, which is right around the corner from my son's apartment. The felafel was great, though I think I've tasted better schwarma.
"I wish I could remember for sure, but I think there was a couple in the booth behind us when we left!
As for the taquerias, we've decided to comb the growing hispanic neighborhoods in Baltimore to try to find something akin to what we were able to get in SF.
You know, another thing I can't seem to get around here is good felafel. Whenever we go to NY, that's one of my first lunch stops. This trip, we went to a place called Mamoun's on Astor Place in the East Village, which is right around the corner from my son's apartment. The felafel was great, though I think I've tasted better schwarma.
Mar 24th, 2009, 09:24 AM
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Great trip report, smetz! I'm glad you had a nice time in my hometown. Your trip to the Bay Area sounded fantastic - I'll have to hit some of the spots you hit the next time I'm out there, especially Muir Woods.
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