Trip Report: New Orleans with Teens
Mar 18th, 2010 | 01:12 PM
#1
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Trip Report: New Orleans with Teens
Cast of Characters: Me, Husband, Son 19, Daughter 17, Daughter 14.
Day 1, March 13. We arrived in New Orleans at about 2 pm and dropped our luggage in our room at the Country Inn and Suites on Magazine. The hotel is in a nice location - close to the action but not too close, plenty of room for a family of 5 in their one bedroom suite. I got a deal that included valet parking (usually $27 a day) in the price. The furnishings were a bit dated but were okay; Son reported that the sofa sleeper was terrible. Housekeeping was spotty - they kept doing things like taking the opened soap and shampoo but not leaving new.
Anyway, we walked straight to Johnny's Po-Boys for lunch. No line because it was just shy of 3 pm by then. I had a great muffaletta, others had a sea food muffaletta and an Italian sub. Very tasty.
Next destination was St. Louis Cathedral but got sidetracked by a cool shop at which the girls each got dresses. Jackson Square was hopping when we got there - a group was just leaving a wedding at the church. We went inside, then toured the 1850 House (which was about ready to close). We walked around the park and saw another wedding taking place there. Afterwards, the wedding party and guests recessed behind a sax player, and pretty soon the whole gang of them was following a band with umbrellas and white hankies, just like in a movie.
Next stop was the take out line at Cafe Du Monde. A waiter came and took our order and brought it to us, so we had our beignets very quickly, even though the line was very long. The kids LOVED the beignets. We did a bit of shopping in the area, then walked around the French quarter admiring the buildings. By then it was dusk so we walked down Bourbon St. with the kids. Pretty wild, even at that early hour. Poor Son - to be a 19 year old guy with scantly clad young women beckoning from doorways - and to be with your mother!
Back to the hotel, then we went back to the quarter for dinner at Oceana Grill. We were worried at first because there was a long line and the guy from the restaurant didn't seem to care that we had reservations. But after about 10 mintues we got a table. The surprising thing was that there were loads of empty tables. The waitress said they were short a cook, so they weren't letting very many people inside. The food was delicious. I think it was everybody's favorite on the trip. Each daughter got a different kind of duck and both were yummy.
Back to the hotel - there was a pretty building courtyard across the street and we witnessed yet another wedding.
More later.
Day 1, March 13. We arrived in New Orleans at about 2 pm and dropped our luggage in our room at the Country Inn and Suites on Magazine. The hotel is in a nice location - close to the action but not too close, plenty of room for a family of 5 in their one bedroom suite. I got a deal that included valet parking (usually $27 a day) in the price. The furnishings were a bit dated but were okay; Son reported that the sofa sleeper was terrible. Housekeeping was spotty - they kept doing things like taking the opened soap and shampoo but not leaving new.
Anyway, we walked straight to Johnny's Po-Boys for lunch. No line because it was just shy of 3 pm by then. I had a great muffaletta, others had a sea food muffaletta and an Italian sub. Very tasty.
Next destination was St. Louis Cathedral but got sidetracked by a cool shop at which the girls each got dresses. Jackson Square was hopping when we got there - a group was just leaving a wedding at the church. We went inside, then toured the 1850 House (which was about ready to close). We walked around the park and saw another wedding taking place there. Afterwards, the wedding party and guests recessed behind a sax player, and pretty soon the whole gang of them was following a band with umbrellas and white hankies, just like in a movie.
Next stop was the take out line at Cafe Du Monde. A waiter came and took our order and brought it to us, so we had our beignets very quickly, even though the line was very long. The kids LOVED the beignets. We did a bit of shopping in the area, then walked around the French quarter admiring the buildings. By then it was dusk so we walked down Bourbon St. with the kids. Pretty wild, even at that early hour. Poor Son - to be a 19 year old guy with scantly clad young women beckoning from doorways - and to be with your mother!
Back to the hotel, then we went back to the quarter for dinner at Oceana Grill. We were worried at first because there was a long line and the guy from the restaurant didn't seem to care that we had reservations. But after about 10 mintues we got a table. The surprising thing was that there were loads of empty tables. The waitress said they were short a cook, so they weren't letting very many people inside. The food was delicious. I think it was everybody's favorite on the trip. Each daughter got a different kind of duck and both were yummy.
Back to the hotel - there was a pretty building courtyard across the street and we witnessed yet another wedding.
More later.
Mar 18th, 2010 | 04:18 PM
#2
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Looking forward to the rest of your report. New Orleans is one of my favorite cities, so I live vicariously through everyone who gets to go 
I loved the visual of your family walking down Bourbon. I can just picture a 19 year old there with his mom.
I loved the visual of your family walking down Bourbon. I can just picture a 19 year old there with his mom.
Mar 20th, 2010 | 06:36 AM
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Day 2, March 14. We had 10:30 am reservations at Mr. B's so everyone got to sleep in a bit. Brunch was great. I had the BBQ'd shrimp. It was messy as I'd been told and tasty, but I don't think I would ever order it again. D had the pecan crusted catfish and she was the one who raved about her entree the most. The live jazz trio started paying at 11 am.
After brunch we walked down to the aquarium - D14 loves all things animals. It was pretty crowded and I guess it's a good aquarium, although that's not really my thing. As we were leaving, Son mentioned that he really wanted to see one of the IMax movies and so I made a mental note to try to fit it in later.
The plan was to go back to the hotel, grab the car, and head to the New Orleans Museum of Art to catch the big Disney exhibit on its last day. After a few minutes, the valet called and asked us to come down. It seems that shortly after we left our car with them (almost 24 hours earlier) a tire went flat. They told the hotel front desk, and the front desk allegedly called us but didn't leave a message. (Everyone acted as if it was our fault for not being in our hotel room in New Orleans on a Saturday night.) Anyway, I'm sure you can see where this story is going. By the time the tire was changed and we got to the musuem, the line was out the door, they said the last admittance was 4 pm and we'd never get in.
Disappointed, we drove to the cemetary a few blocks away. We were nervous because it supposedly closed at 4 pm. We walked around quickly but didn't want to be locked in, so it was a short visit.
Then, of course, the family turned to Mom the Trip Planner, who is expected to have not only Plan A, but Plan B and Plan C in her back pocket. Of course, I did. We drove to the Garden District and had a nice walking tour of the neighborhood (from the Fodors book.) It was a beautiful day to be outside and the homes were really lovely.
Dinner was at Arnoud's Remolaude, which is Arnoud's more affordable sibling. The recommendation came not from this board but from the Fodors book. It was terrible - avoid it! Actually, the shrimp bisque was good. One D had pizza which everyone but me tried and pronounced inedible. I had the crawfish cakes which had to have been purchased frozen from some restaurant supply company. H had the stuffed crab which also had to have been purchased premade. You know your meal is going to be disppointing when your plate arrives and it's 2/3 full of COLD french fries.
After that, we had to redeem the evening by returning to Cafe du Monde. We sat at a table and wondered what "method" the harried waiters used to figure out who had been waited on and who hadn't. After waiting about 45 minutes without our order being taken, we determined there was no method. Lots of people came and went while we sat there. We finally talked to one of the waiters and eventually got our food. But of course, hot beignets heal all ills, so we left happy. (Note: the place starts to clear out and be sane at about 11 pm.)
After brunch we walked down to the aquarium - D14 loves all things animals. It was pretty crowded and I guess it's a good aquarium, although that's not really my thing. As we were leaving, Son mentioned that he really wanted to see one of the IMax movies and so I made a mental note to try to fit it in later.
The plan was to go back to the hotel, grab the car, and head to the New Orleans Museum of Art to catch the big Disney exhibit on its last day. After a few minutes, the valet called and asked us to come down. It seems that shortly after we left our car with them (almost 24 hours earlier) a tire went flat. They told the hotel front desk, and the front desk allegedly called us but didn't leave a message. (Everyone acted as if it was our fault for not being in our hotel room in New Orleans on a Saturday night.) Anyway, I'm sure you can see where this story is going. By the time the tire was changed and we got to the musuem, the line was out the door, they said the last admittance was 4 pm and we'd never get in.
Disappointed, we drove to the cemetary a few blocks away. We were nervous because it supposedly closed at 4 pm. We walked around quickly but didn't want to be locked in, so it was a short visit.
Then, of course, the family turned to Mom the Trip Planner, who is expected to have not only Plan A, but Plan B and Plan C in her back pocket. Of course, I did. We drove to the Garden District and had a nice walking tour of the neighborhood (from the Fodors book.) It was a beautiful day to be outside and the homes were really lovely.
Dinner was at Arnoud's Remolaude, which is Arnoud's more affordable sibling. The recommendation came not from this board but from the Fodors book. It was terrible - avoid it! Actually, the shrimp bisque was good. One D had pizza which everyone but me tried and pronounced inedible. I had the crawfish cakes which had to have been purchased frozen from some restaurant supply company. H had the stuffed crab which also had to have been purchased premade. You know your meal is going to be disppointing when your plate arrives and it's 2/3 full of COLD french fries.
After that, we had to redeem the evening by returning to Cafe du Monde. We sat at a table and wondered what "method" the harried waiters used to figure out who had been waited on and who hadn't. After waiting about 45 minutes without our order being taken, we determined there was no method. Lots of people came and went while we sat there. We finally talked to one of the waiters and eventually got our food. But of course, hot beignets heal all ills, so we left happy. (Note: the place starts to clear out and be sane at about 11 pm.)
Mar 22nd, 2010 | 05:14 AM
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Day 3, Monday, March 15. I get the idea that the fine residents of New Orleans want the tourists to leave on Sunday because virtually nothing is open on Mondays. We went to the WWII Museum, saw the first showing of the day of the IMax movie...quite crowded. The museum was interesting and well done. We stayed until after 2 pm - by then, the kids were museumed-out and we all were hungry.
We stopped at Mother's for lunch. It was only about 1/2 block from our hotel so we thought we'd do take out. We waited and waited and waited for our food. When we asked, we were told that the delay was cooking the chicken for the grilled chicken sandwich that one D ordered - they said (not when she ordered it, but when we asked later) that a chicken breast took half hour to cook. Mind you, that chicken breast was 1/4 inch thick, which takes about 4 minutes at home, but whatever. The guys had the ham and roast beef special and said it was good, I had the oyster po-boy and it was good; the girls hated their chicken and turkey sandwiches.
We had planned to go to the Mardi-Gras museum at the Presbytere but it was closed on Mondays so we decided to take the ferry to Algiers. We got there and the ferry was out, so we took the ferry over to the other place the ferry goes...just stayed on for the round trip. Pretty unattractive riverfront going upstream.
After that, the girls wanted to shop and the guys didn't, so we split up for a couple of hours. We went to a store called Wish on the road south of Decatur and pretty much bought out the store. The guys got a burger at Krystals and hung out in Jackson Square.
Dinner was at Pascal's Manale. Each girl had some kind of pasta with seafood which they each loved. I had the oyster loaf which they really should just sell as an appetizer and not an entree - too much rich sameness to have that be your meal.
We stopped at Mother's for lunch. It was only about 1/2 block from our hotel so we thought we'd do take out. We waited and waited and waited for our food. When we asked, we were told that the delay was cooking the chicken for the grilled chicken sandwich that one D ordered - they said (not when she ordered it, but when we asked later) that a chicken breast took half hour to cook. Mind you, that chicken breast was 1/4 inch thick, which takes about 4 minutes at home, but whatever. The guys had the ham and roast beef special and said it was good, I had the oyster po-boy and it was good; the girls hated their chicken and turkey sandwiches.
We had planned to go to the Mardi-Gras museum at the Presbytere but it was closed on Mondays so we decided to take the ferry to Algiers. We got there and the ferry was out, so we took the ferry over to the other place the ferry goes...just stayed on for the round trip. Pretty unattractive riverfront going upstream.
After that, the girls wanted to shop and the guys didn't, so we split up for a couple of hours. We went to a store called Wish on the road south of Decatur and pretty much bought out the store. The guys got a burger at Krystals and hung out in Jackson Square.
Dinner was at Pascal's Manale. Each girl had some kind of pasta with seafood which they each loved. I had the oyster loaf which they really should just sell as an appetizer and not an entree - too much rich sameness to have that be your meal.
Mar 22nd, 2010 | 05:50 AM
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Day 4, March 16. This morning we had reservations for the New Orleans School of Cooking. The room has about 8 tables for 8; you sit there and drink tea or water and watch the cook cook - she talks about the food, the difference between cajun and creole food, then you eat it. I think Son got a bit bored with the cooking part, but I found it entertaining and we all enjoyed the food.
From there we went to the Audubon Zoo. I kept my eye on my watch because there was a 5 pm showing of the IMax movie that Son wanted to see at the aquarium. We had several hours at the zoo. We left at 4 pm, but D14 wanted to stay until the 5 pm closing time. It took a long time to drive those few miles to the aquarium. We arrived breathlessley at the ticket line at 4:45 and were told that the 5 pm show was sold out. Son was so disappointed. Everything else was closed by then, so we went back to the room to rest.
I thought if we ate a late dinner (e.g. 8:30 or 9 pm) things would be less crowded. We went to our first choice - Yo Mamas - and found out that they do not admit people under 21. We went to our second choice - Acme Oyster Company - and even at that late hour the wait was in excess of 45 minutes. So we went to our third choice - Cafe Maspero. Pros: We thought the food was very good. H and I shared a fried seafood platter and there was more than enough for two of us. Cons: VERY rude waitress...the closest I've come to having food thrown on the table. Also, someone spotted a mouse. Another pro: We were pretty close to Cafe Du Monde, so even though we got wet in the rain, we had our last beinget fix. This time it was late enough that we were waited on right away and got our food quickly.
From there we went to the Audubon Zoo. I kept my eye on my watch because there was a 5 pm showing of the IMax movie that Son wanted to see at the aquarium. We had several hours at the zoo. We left at 4 pm, but D14 wanted to stay until the 5 pm closing time. It took a long time to drive those few miles to the aquarium. We arrived breathlessley at the ticket line at 4:45 and were told that the 5 pm show was sold out. Son was so disappointed. Everything else was closed by then, so we went back to the room to rest.
I thought if we ate a late dinner (e.g. 8:30 or 9 pm) things would be less crowded. We went to our first choice - Yo Mamas - and found out that they do not admit people under 21. We went to our second choice - Acme Oyster Company - and even at that late hour the wait was in excess of 45 minutes. So we went to our third choice - Cafe Maspero. Pros: We thought the food was very good. H and I shared a fried seafood platter and there was more than enough for two of us. Cons: VERY rude waitress...the closest I've come to having food thrown on the table. Also, someone spotted a mouse. Another pro: We were pretty close to Cafe Du Monde, so even though we got wet in the rain, we had our last beinget fix. This time it was late enough that we were waited on right away and got our food quickly.
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Mar 22nd, 2010 | 07:00 AM
#8
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Day 5, March 17. Today is our day to tour plantations, but before that we stopped at the rental car place at the airport (thank goodness it was on the way) to turn in that car and get a new one so we didn't have to drive on the little spare.
Our first stop was Laura Plantation. I learned a lot on that tour - how that particular plantation was their "office", like living above the store, not a grand place for entertaning or showing off wealth. I appreciated the honesty of the tour - describing the good and the bad and the really bad.
After that tour we stopped for a quick lunch at B&C Seafood. We really enjoyed everything we ate. They had a few items on the menu that the restaurants in NOLA didn't (e.g. fried green tomatoes, frog legs.) We actually enjoyed their bread pudding more than the bread pudding at Mr. B's.
After lunch we toured Oak Alley, which is what everyone thinks a plantation should look like. We drove home on the other side of the river, and drove by (but didn't tour) another plantation.
To the airport, then home.
Our first stop was Laura Plantation. I learned a lot on that tour - how that particular plantation was their "office", like living above the store, not a grand place for entertaning or showing off wealth. I appreciated the honesty of the tour - describing the good and the bad and the really bad.
After that tour we stopped for a quick lunch at B&C Seafood. We really enjoyed everything we ate. They had a few items on the menu that the restaurants in NOLA didn't (e.g. fried green tomatoes, frog legs.) We actually enjoyed their bread pudding more than the bread pudding at Mr. B's.
After lunch we toured Oak Alley, which is what everyone thinks a plantation should look like. We drove home on the other side of the river, and drove by (but didn't tour) another plantation.
To the airport, then home.
Mar 22nd, 2010 | 07:04 AM
#9
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Thoughts on New Orleans: It makes me sad that whatever way of life there used to be in the French Quarter no longer exists. It's such a Catch 22 - cities want tourist dollars, but all the tourists disrupt what was so cool there in the first place. Do residents ever spend the time/effort to eat at Cafe Du Monde or Acme Oyster Company?
As we were taking our walking tour of the Garden District, I felt sorry for folks whose homes made the guide book. The normal homeowners must think "please don't put my house on our tour; please don't put my house in your book." I'd hate to live with folks gawking from the sidewalk all the time.
Terrific food, pretty city, fairly abrupt restaurant service everywhere, too many tourists.
As we were taking our walking tour of the Garden District, I felt sorry for folks whose homes made the guide book. The normal homeowners must think "please don't put my house on our tour; please don't put my house in your book." I'd hate to live with folks gawking from the sidewalk all the time.
Terrific food, pretty city, fairly abrupt restaurant service everywhere, too many tourists.
Mar 22nd, 2010 | 01:23 PM
#12
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I'm not sure if you ever visited NOLA per-K, but the tourism there is still down significantly to what it was. So, if you think it is busy now, it used to be much busier. I've been there 3X since, & it in no way approaches Pre-K crowds. I go to Acme every time I visit(& walk right in & sit at the bar). It also helps @ Cafe Maspero if you chat up the oft-tattoed, slightly beligerent & overly pierced wait staff but I usually sit at the bar there as well (probably not a good idea w/kids as they may have their vocabulary expanded in ways that you would not approve). Glad you enjoyed it & nice report.
Mar 22nd, 2010 | 01:27 PM
#13
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Our waitress at Cafe Maspero seemed like a mom who had been working a 10 hour shift. It was after 9 pm when we arrived, so she probably had been working that long. We tried to be very sweet and polite but she really did just toss things on the table with no words or eye contact.
I visited NOLA a couple of times pre-K, but never during Spring Break week. Most of Texas is on spring break that week and who knows who else.
I visited NOLA a couple of times pre-K, but never during Spring Break week. Most of Texas is on spring break that week and who knows who else.
Mar 21st, 2011 | 03:41 PM
#16
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I love NOLA (was born there but left as a baby) and have been many times. I was actually there the week before you for Mardi Gras with DD, DH and Mom.
I've been several times when my kids were quite young and then as teenagers and always had a very good time. Although I can relate to the 19 yr old on Bourbon St. - been there, done that.
We really enjoy Blake Kern's Mardi Gras world. You can take the free Algiers ferry and a van will pick you up at the dock and take you to their warehouse. The tour is very informative and it's not something you can do anywhere else. We've been twice.
With kids, the Aquarium and Zoo are at the top of the list. But another idea is to take the street car from the FQ to Audubon Park and a river boat back or vice versa. The boat isn't cheap, but it's something a lot of people have never done.
With teenagers, I highly recommend a cemetery/voodoo tour. The one we did originated at Cafe Beignet and it was extremely interesting. It goes into St. Louis Cemetery #1 and a voodoo house or something. I learned a lot about all the history of the city, etc.
I've been several times when my kids were quite young and then as teenagers and always had a very good time. Although I can relate to the 19 yr old on Bourbon St. - been there, done that.
We really enjoy Blake Kern's Mardi Gras world. You can take the free Algiers ferry and a van will pick you up at the dock and take you to their warehouse. The tour is very informative and it's not something you can do anywhere else. We've been twice.
With kids, the Aquarium and Zoo are at the top of the list. But another idea is to take the street car from the FQ to Audubon Park and a river boat back or vice versa. The boat isn't cheap, but it's something a lot of people have never done.
With teenagers, I highly recommend a cemetery/voodoo tour. The one we did originated at Cafe Beignet and it was extremely interesting. It goes into St. Louis Cemetery #1 and a voodoo house or something. I learned a lot about all the history of the city, etc.
Mar 21st, 2011 | 06:45 PM
#17
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>
As former residents, frequent visitors (since my family is still there)-
Cafe Du Monde - yes, every time we're in the FQ with the boys.
Acme - no way! DH and boys prefer Felixs...just across the street, better food, no lines!
As former residents, frequent visitors (since my family is still there)-
Cafe Du Monde - yes, every time we're in the FQ with the boys.
Acme - no way! DH and boys prefer Felixs...just across the street, better food, no lines!
Mar 21st, 2011 | 07:03 PM
#18
Joined: Oct 2006
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missypie,
I was there during the same timeframe as you. We were at the Zoo on the 16th. We were also rushing to get back to the 5PM showing at the IMAX. Fortunately we had already purchased tickets. We got into the IMAX at 5:08PM but they were still doing previews for the other films (gotta love commercials).
I was there during the same timeframe as you. We were at the Zoo on the 16th. We were also rushing to get back to the 5PM showing at the IMAX. Fortunately we had already purchased tickets. We got into the IMAX at 5:08PM but they were still doing previews for the other films (gotta love commercials).
