There is a wealth of information about NY from New Yorkers and others, and I wouldn't presume to do anything more than add a couple of personal experiences and comments.

First, our hotel. We stayed at the Excelsior at 81st between Central Pk West and Columbus Ave., and I can't say enough about it, although $149. per night expands fast with taxes and surcharges -- doesn't quite qualify as a bargain. A lovely hotel in a quiet, residential neighborhood (next to the planetarium and natural hist. museum) with nice rooms, gorgeous "breakfast room" that is more like a salon-plus-library in an old NY mansion (breakfast is $14-$18, not included in room rate), and the location was -- for our needs -- perfect. The 81st St. stop on the A/C/E lines is 5 doors away from the hotel. With a little savvy about what are express and what are local trains, you can get just about anywhere downtown in 20-30 min. or less - theaters, Lincoln Ctr., Greenwich Village, etc. In addition, you can walk five blocks north to get the M86 bus that crosses the park and comes out right at the Met. Museum and 3 blks. south of the Guggenheim. (Just be aware that it actually emerges at about 84th St. eastbound but you have to walk up to 86th st. to catch it west bound to come home).

Another reason we liked the location was its proximity to some really nice restaurants and shops along Columbus and Amsterdam Aves. in that area. Although there are some very nice Thai, Italian, French, Spanish, etc. restaurants, one of our favorites was the Popover Café near 97th on Amsterdam -- very good salads and entrees, or brunch fare, plus enormous popovers with an array of butters or preserves. What could be better on a rainy, cold city evening than soup and a popover?

And it was, indeed, a cold, rainy, slushy, miserable weekend, weatherwise, and I was very glad I bought rubber-footed boots for me and spouse on the cheap the night before we left. As pretty as the snow must have been a few days ago, New Yorkers are now living with below-freezing salty water up to their ankles at each street corner, and mountains of garbage bags on many sidewalks uncollected because of the blizzard. Yet New York remains as friendly as it has become in the last few years, even before 9/11, the national stereotype notwithstanding.

We braved the Cloisters because in the many previous trips I'd never made it up there, and I thought that it would be especially pretty in the snow. It was very pretty, but rather treacherous if you chose to walk from the 190 st. subwat stop, and several of the cloisters/terraces were closed because of the snow. Oh, well. We decided to climb aboard the M4 bus to take us ALL the way back to the Metropolitan Museum. This is a very long trip (from 190th on the far west side to 84th on the east side -- or more than 10 miles) and this was probably the slowest way to get there short of walking. But we got to see a lot of New York for the $1.50 fee (got Metrocards, a great convenience). Loved seeing kids finding hilly places to slide down on saucers or sleds or even inflatable swimming toys.

So this is part 2 (don't look for another post):
We saw "Movin' Out." Even if you aren't a Billy Joel fan, it's amazing how well Twyla Tharp choreography works with it, and the producers have come up with a show of substance -- this is much, much more than do-wop and jitterbugging. We ate at the Firebird on the same street as many theaters. Ask to be seated in the Library and expect to be lured into paying too much if you have a taste for caviar. You'll pay a lot even if you avoid caviar, but the 3-course fixed price $38 is a really good value. If you have an 8 pm curtain, however, get there before 6 -- 5:30 is better.

About the new Matthew Barney exhibit at the Guggenheim -- no one not 100% hip to contemporary trends in art and not willing to be severely reverent in a European sort of way about experimentation and eros should enter the show without being warned that they will need a taste for Dali, Cirque du Soleil, pornography, Fellini, music videos, and highly cerebral eroticism. It consumes all of the spiral space of the museum and is an overwhelming Event. The single Pierre Huyghe (prize-winning) piece is, on the other hand, a modest miracle. That’ll be $.02 for my inexpert opinion.

We enjoyed the Met. Museum, as always, we enjoyed puttering around Soho and the Village, even in the driving rain. We took ourselves to Ground Zero -- be aware that taxi drivers seem to like to bring you to the east side and then ask you if you want to go around to the west side of the site where most people like to stand -- this maneuver nets them an extra $3.50 just to go “around” the site. It’s easy enough to take the subway to the Courtland St. stop or just tell the cabbie when you get into the cab to go to the Courtland St. side of ground zero. It is, indeed, where the memorials are located. Very moving, not less for freezing to death in 40 MPH wind and rain. Maybe more so.

Last, about getting to and from LaGuardia. The cab to/from the Excelsior was less than $20, plus bridge toll of $3.50 and tip. The hotel concierge would have liked us to reserve a town car for $35., but even in terrible weather, there is no shortage of cabs in that neighborhood. Why bother with a limo or town car?

PS -- Think I'm not clear about the Barney vs. the Huyghe exhibits at the Guggenheim: thought the Barney was obstreperous and at core far too impressed with itself; love the Huyghe. Here's the refund of your $.02.

Thank you Cassandra, loved your report

Really nice job, Cassandra. You must be a travel writer! Comments on cabs, etc. very helpful. However, one small quibble: I think the Popover place is actually at 86th or so, isn't it? My niece introducted us to it a few years ago, and she lives at 87th and West End, and I'm pretty sure we didn't have to walk 10 blks. to get there.

Cassandra:
I'm very glad you had a great time in my neighborhood. I live 1/2 block from The Excelsior.

The Popover Cafe is @ Amsterdam & 86/87th St.

I'm glad there's ANOTHER TOURIST opinion about taking a cab to/from LGA.
Especially with 2 or more people, cabbing it is the best and most cost EFFECTIVE means. Effective doesn't mean cheapest, but the method that works BEST. Especially in bad weather, why would you want to spend a vacation saving several $ slepping around luggage on the bus/subway?? I just don't understand that. You have a coffee & bagel breakfast for 2 mornings and you save enough money for cab transfers.

Anyway, I'm glad you had a great vacation, dispite the weather. For others considering the UWS, especially the Excelsior or the Lucerne Hotel, you can save money by having breakfast at several diners. Jackson Hole Restaurant @ Columbus Ave & 85th St. They have EXCELLENT breakfast specials for about $3-5; which include juice, coffee, and entree, like eggs, waffles, pancakes, french toast.

For a fancier breakfast but still a good value, brunch @ Time Cafe, Broadway & 85th St, has prix fixe for abour $13, with tons of food.

For those staying @ the Lucerne, the Manhattan Diner, @ Broadway & 77th St, offer similar breakfast specials.

These restaurants offer good
breakfasts for better values than more popular area places such as Sarabeths, which ALWAYS has long lines and expensive breakfasts.

Thanks to soccr and Anthony for correcting my typo reopover cafe. Too bad I didn't know you were there, Anthony! It's a lovely neighborhood, and since there's a good chance I'll stay at the Excelsior when I return to the city, I'll keep the breakfast alternatives in mind. (However, I'd still want to have at least 1 breakfast in that lovely room.) Actually, I tend to skip breakfasts when I travel, eat a heavier lunch and a lighter, early supper -- keeps me from being weighed down with food, spending too much.

But tell me about the Lucerne -- more upscale than the Excelsior? Where is it, for that matter?

Great report Cassandra. I just wanted to add for those traveling with kids that Popover's is a great family restaurant. They have a kids' menu although sometimes my child eats just a popover (with strawberry butter! yum!) and some of my entree or soup. And all of Anthony's suggestions are great with kids.

Topping for others asking for help w/NYC trip

Great report Cassandra! Makes me wish that I was back in NYC!

Excellent report - thanks for sharing!

I think it's great that you experienced the Upper West Side. Hopefully it will encourage other visitors to do the same and get away from the "touristy" areas. This gives you a better feeling of what is is like to live in NY and also gives you access to many great neighborhood restaurants - like Popover Cafe!
There seems to be something to see and do in any part of NYC and so where you choose to stay is NOT as important (as it may be in other cities).

The Guggenheim is wonderful in that it seems to have perfectly incorporated space and art and gives you the exact fill of art. Also, check out the newish Neue Galerie, which exhibits German and Austrian art. The Cafe Sabarksy is very New York (with NY prices!). We enjoyed decadent hot chocolate and desserts!