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Songdoc's Kauai Trip Report, Pix, and a WARNING!!! (Part 1 of 3)

Songdoc's Kauai Trip Report, Pix, and a WARNING!!! (Part 1 of 3)

Old Aug 18th, 2007, 01:02 PM
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Songdoc's Kauai Trip Report, Pix, and a WARNING!!! (Part 1 of 3)

Part I of III

I'm back from a WONDERFUL trip and now, I WANNA GO BAAACCCKKK!!!

First, the link to the pix. (You'll have to paste it in.)

My report actually begins a week before the actual trip … when “Duncan,” our precious British Blue Shorthair kitty got very sick. The diagnosis was kidney failure and the prognosis wasn’t good. It was a week of being on an emotional roller coaster, alternating between being certain he wouldn’t make it – and then, getting a glimmer of hope.

FYI, I gave this sweet kitty to my DP as a birthday gift 12 years ago and he’s been like our baby. Because of his breed he was very stocky – sort of like what a cat would look like if it were a football player. Sometimes, British Blues are referred to as the “bull dog” of the cat world.) He became skin and bones and it was heartbreaking. The cat was on an I.V. to flush his kidneys and re-hydrate him … and after almost a week, he seemed to be responding. But … he’d only eat for DP.

So … the decision was made. DP canceled his trip to Hawaii to stay home with the cat and give him subcutaneous injections of fluids every other day, along with nonstop love and attention. I had an obligation to be in Hawaii because I was slated to teach and perform at the Kauai Music Festival. We had prepaid for a condo in Princeville and the plan was to have a week’s vacation prior to my working at the festival.

So, I went to Hawaii -- sad and alone. The flights seemed like a new form of torture. I flew Nashville to Oakland on a completely full SW flight. Due to the layover and an unexplained delay, I spent an interminable five-and-a half hours in Oakland. I had a non-reclining exit row seat on the completely full ATA flight to Kauai and barely slept a wink—but at least I was finally en route.

I arrived, irritable and exhausted to find that the National Car Rental booth was closed. But wait … did I hear someone inside? I banged on the aluminum window and the disinterested teenager rolled it up. Two minutes later and she would have been on her way home. Not sure what I would have happened to my prepaid reservation!

Then, it was off to the North Shore. After a quick stop for essentials at Foodland in Kapaa (costing at least double what we pay on the mainland) I had a 45 minute trip on deserted roads to Princeville, arriving at midnight – 18 hours after I’d left home that morning! I had no trouble finding the SeaLodge condo complex; it couldn’t have been easier. The condo seemed fine and I collapsed.

I awoke to a view that surpassed my wildest expectations. The photos online hadn’t come close to doing it justice. I know there are many condos with beautiful views at this complex, but because of this unit’s exact location, the view of the coastline was exceptional. I would have been blissfully happy spending my entire vacation with my book, either sitting on the balcony or in the living room overlooking that view. From the comfy bed, all I could see was ocean.

FYI, the website for the condo (Kai Nani, Sealodge #G-2) is: www.nakearentals.com. I thought it was quite reasonably priced at $847/wk, or $137.50/nt for shorter stays. The owners were a pleasure to deal with and I have nothing but positive comments about the condo. (My only complaint was that I couldn’t get a WiFi signal after the first two days—but that actually felt like a blessing.) It felt like I’d found my little magic spot and I never wanted to leave.

The jet lag and long travel day hit hard on my first day, so I mostly took it easy, napping, reading, and basking in the views of that coastline with the Kilauea lighthouse in the distance. By the way, the views of the mountains from the parking lot were quite impressive, as well. From here on in, I won’t break the report into what I did each day, but will give you highlights.

At Kauai Orchids in Kilauea, I bought four lovely orchids that were shipped to my home. (A later stop at Orchid Alley in Kapa’a was pleasant, but the orchids were more a bit expensive and less impressive.) From there, I enjoyed the Kilauea Lighthouse – well, so much not the lighthouse itself, but the setting that juts out into the sea, providing marvelous views and a great vantage point to watch the birds swooping.

At the farmer’s market, at the parking lot next to the Kilauea Theater, about ten vendors sold produce from their cars and trucks. (I believe it’s held each Thursday, but you’ll have to check to be sure.) They began at precisely 4:00pm – refusing to sell one minute earlier. Except for the guy selling the organic lettuce (which was very good -- and reasonably priced) and the one person with flowers, everyone else seemed to have the same things: bananas, mangos, and papayas. I bought the best mangos I’d ever had in my life.

to be continued ...
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Old Aug 18th, 2007, 02:52 PM
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Part II of III

I continued on toward the falls … and it began to rain. In other words, the trail got slippery – and even without that, it was more challenging than the first two miles had been. There were several places where it was difficult to discern where the trail was and at one of those spots, I lost the trail. I’d been keeping relatively close to other hikers up to that point, but there I was, lost and alone on this slippery trail, facing a stream. I switched from my sneakers to water shoes and planned to walk through the water instead of trying to jump from one slippery rock to the next. But the bottom of the stream was like oil-slicked ice and down I went – slamming face first into a rock.

I’d recently finished extensive dental work and my first thought was that all my teeth must be broken--as well as my face. But there wasn’t any blood, so I carefully stood upright in the shallow water and continued across. The lump on my leg was the size of a baseball but amazingly, I seemed to be okay. But I’d really smacked my head into a rock and wasn’t sure if I’d gotten a concussion.

Luckily, I heard hikers in the distance and was able to yell for help. I wanted someone around until I could be sure that I was okay. I knew nothing was broken; I was just really shaken up. For some insane reason(s) – probably a combination of macho pride; determination; and just plain stupidity—I decided to continue, but stayed close to the other hikers. I was shaky and nervous and frankly – NOT enjoying it. The trail was grueling and it seemed I fell every time I had to cross a stream. I soon had matching blue baseballs and countless scrapes on both legs! Ironically, I never fell on the trail itself, despite it being VERY slippery in spots.

I made it to the waterfall and back. It was pouring by the time I reached the falls and I was exhausted and miserable. Several hikers swam in the pool and under the falls. I was in no mood. Under other circumstances, I would have found the falls impressive.

The ordeal ended when the trail brought me back to Ke’e beach. Immersing my aching, bruised body in that cool, refreshing surf had to be one of the best feelings of my life! It took me seven-and-a-half hours to hike those 8 miles. To give you an idea of how grueling this trail was, in comparison, I typically walk about 4 miles an hour at a local lake with some inclines, where I do my daily walk.

By the time I got back to my condo, the palms of my hands were blue and swollen and I realized they were the reason why my face and teeth were still intact. By the next day, every inch of my body ached. It was hard to even get in and out of bed. I realized that I had literally risked my life – and that is not my idea of “fun.” I can’t imagine how someone could possibly be retrieved from that trail if they had a serious injury, such as a broken limb (which must happen often).

Sadly, the trek to the waterfall is a hike I would not do again. Nor would I recommend it to anyone who is less than a SERIOUS, dedicated hiker. If it’s dry, I would definitely recommend the first two miles of the Kalalau trail to those in very good shape who are willing to deal with the steep inclines, slippery spots (even when it’s relatively dry) and the boulders. I’ve read posts about people doing it barefoot or in flip flops. To me, that’s INSANE and frankly, seems impossible. Most people were wearing sneakers – but many had hiking boots.

Now … there’s a theme about to develop and I might as well get this out of the way. I found myself in several situations where I felt I was putting myself in danger. Maybe I wouldn’t have felt it so strongly if I hadn’t already gotten injured hiking, but it seemed that in many instances, I found myself climbing down slippery, steep paths with jagged rocks, sharp, uneven lava, and exposed tree roots to get to beaches I’d read about in The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook: Kauai Revealed.

For instance … SeaLodge beach was pretty, with lots of tide pools filled with fish and crabs – although too shallow for swimming. There was plenty of shade, which was a bonus. The sign that said the path was “treacherous” was something I basically ignored, thinking “well, everyone goes there – it can’t really be dangerous.” I can’t imagine how some people carried beach chairs and coolers down that trail. I guess I didn’t get that mountain goat gene.

Maybe I’m turning into an old wussy wimp … but getting down the path to Queen’s Bath, as well as walking over the lava and jagged rocks, also seemed very dangerous to me. Queen’s Bath was beautiful. I loved the views and watched at least a dozen turtles battling the surf as I approached the swimming area. But … I kept thinking, “This is not Disneyland. There are no guard rails and this is REALLY dangerous.” I watched someone slip and get a scraped leg on the way back up—so it wasn’t just me.

I feel like I’m being a party poop. But Kauai is soooo beautiful, I don’t feel the need to endanger my life (or ruin a vacation) to go to “secret” or “off-the-beaten-path” places when there are so many breathtakingly beautiful places that can be easily and safely accessed. I just wanted to warn those who might ignore the “warning” signs that are good reasons for those signs.

So … what did I love? Ke’e beach is absolutely gorgeous; that’s my favorite beach. A few minutes from the parking lot, the views of the Na Pali cliffs, shrouded with passing clouds, was utterly magical—especially when I came upon two monk seals lounging on the beach. I enjoyed a refreshing swim in calm waters, but I’m not a snorkeler. However, I heard from others that the snorkeling was fantastic there.

No matter how many times I drove through Hanalei, those views blew me away. Hanalei pier and bay were exceptionally beautiful and I enjoyed joining those who gathered to watch the sunset paint its pictures from the pier.

When I reserved the “Na Pali Sunset catamaran cruise” with Captain Sundown, I was hoping for peaceful, relaxing sailing … but it was more of an adventure ride. It was fantastic and highly recommended. FYI, based on other postings, I took a sea sickness pill. I had a few brief periods of being queasy, but I never got sick, nor did anyone else onboard. But that little boat did some serious rockin’ and rolling.

I chose the afternoon sailing (as opposed to the morning “snorkel sail”) because I wasn’t interested in snorkeling – and because I’d heard the light is better on the cliffs in late afternoon, but I did know it was likely to be rougher sailing that time of day. The Capt. said we had exceptionally smooth seas. Lord, I wouldn’t have wanted a rough day!

Okay, I’ll admit it; to me swimming with fish is analogous to playing with cockroaches. I don’t want them near me--either on my plate or in the water and Bill’s report of baby hammerhead sharks swimming close to the water’s edge in Hanalei is my idea of HELL! I’m glad I didn’t read that before my trip – or I might not have even taken a shower, let alone gotten into the water!

The whole cruise was fun, but there were maybe ten or fifteen minutes of truly indescribable beauty as the sun cast its shadows on those magnificent cliffs. FYI, several people stretched out on something like a hammock, just above the water as we sailed back. They got an ultimate thrill ride, as well as getting drenched.

The Limahuli National Botanic Gardens were very pleasant and the setting is gorgeous. I thoroughly enjoyed a relaxing 90 minutes – but wouldn’t call it a “must-see.”

I also enjoyed the beach at the Princeville Hotel with its views of Hanalei bay and pier in the distance. The water was calm and I enjoyed floating and swimming—doing my best to ignore the little fishies.

I had a complete kitchen in the condo and was trying to be healthy. Plus, knew I’d be eating every meal in restaurants during the second part of my trip, so I didn’t eat out much on the North Shore. I did return to Neide’s, where I’d had an excellent meal last year – and I wasn’t disappointed in the Brazilian stuffed vegetable pancake. Yummm!!! I also enjoyed the laid back outdoor setting. Picked up take-out soup, salad bar items, and fruit at Papaya’s natural foods store one day.

Otherwise, I mostly ate on my balcony, joined by beautiful birds who have apparently learned that each new batch of tourists can be counted on to throw them tidbits. I bought a roast chicken at the market and a wonderful fresh baked loaf of bread at the Kilauea bakery. Got addicted to some delicious pastries stuffed with vegetables and cheese at the Kilauea bakery, along with the smoothies. I didn’t try the pizza, but it looked good. And oohhh, those fruit salads I made with mangos, pineapple, papaya and those little, sweet “apple bananas” were heaven with a dollop of yogurt.
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Old Aug 18th, 2007, 02:54 PM
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Part 3 of 3

My six days of bliss on the North Shore passed much too quickly and I truly grieved leaving my little slice of heaven. But it was time to move to the Hilton Kauai Beach Resort on the East Shore (between Lihue and Kapa’a) where I’d be teaching and performing at the annual Kauai Music Festival.

The KBR room was fine—but I had no view and I’d been spoiled. (FYI, there are ocean view rooms available at an additional fee, but they can’t compare with the views I’d had from Sealodge.) The hotel is fronted by a beautiful beach (although not safe for swimming) and has a very nice pool and several spas. Each evening at six, there were pleasant performances of traditional live music and hula dancers at the pool, during a torch lighting ceremony. Unfortunately, I had quite a few cockroaches and ants in my room. Other than that, no complaints – and no one else seemed to be having the problem.

I started each morning with a long walk along that beautiful stretch of beach and one morning I walked all the way to Lydgate Park. Round trip (with a ten minute swim to cool down) took about 2-1/2 hours and was a wonderful, relaxing way to spend the morning.

I’d been to Kauai previously and had already seen many of the sights – including the spectacular Waimea Canyon (a definite “must-see”), so I was content to take it easy and enjoy simply being in paradise, instead of feeling the need to cram in obligatory sights.

I was only teaching and performing a few hours a day, so I did lots of those blissful beach walks. I did enjoy return visits to Opaeka’a Falls (and walked across the road to admire the views of the Wailua River and the sacred areas nearby) and Wailua Falls. They were both close to the hotel and just as beautiful as I remembered.

A highlight of most mornings on the East Shore was breakfast at Kountry Kitchen in Kapa’a. Those massive banana and macadamia nut pancakes are simply the best-tasting things that have ever set foot in my mouth! OMG. I’d go for my long walks after breakfast in vain hopes of walking off those calories, but I’d have needed to swim to Australia to accomplish that ? Two pancakes left me stuffed (and I’m a big eater!). The luau omelet also comes highly recommended. Using the bypasses cut out the worst of the traffic in Kapa’a. Thank you Auntie!!!

Papaya’s natural foods store in Kapa’a has a few outdoor tables and I enjoyed the salad bar and selection of a few hot vegetarian entrees, hoping to offset the morning’s pancakes! Um, I guess stopping for ice cream at Cold Stone Creamery a few doors down afterwards sort of defeated the purpose ?. (Hey, I got the sugar free/fat free variety!)

The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook (which I highly recommend) became my guide to inexpensive “local” restaurants. My first visit to Waipouli Restaurant was good – but not spectacular. I had tasty kalua pork and cabbage. No atmosphere; in a strip mall … but a large menu and reasonable prices. My friend said her shrimp tempura was excellent. My second visit was only because I was stuck in traffic and had to return to teach. The restaurant was right next to me and I pulled in. This time I ordered the beef and broccoli, expecting the standard stringy strips of beef most Chinese restaurants serve …but was I ever wrong! It was incredible; the most succulent, tender roast beef in a heavenly gravy, along with broccoli and rice. WOW!

Based on many recommendations, I tried Kauai Pasta in Kapa’a and it was FANTASTIC. While there’s not much atmosphere, the house pasta and house salad, as well as the presentation were top notch. Yum!!!

After reading so many raves I was compelled to try Hamura’s in Lihue, but it was packed and I gave up, settling instead for the Lihue Barbecue Inn, a few doors down. It was fine – but I didn’t feel it deserved an “Ono” or a return visit. But not to be daunted, I returned another day to Hamura’s. This time, I found one of the last remaining counter seats. The patrons were almost all locals and luckily, those sitting next to me explained the “menu” (actually, just a few items listed on a board). It made no sense to me. I couldn’t tell if there were different varieties of saimon – or only different sizes.

I went for the “special” saimin and a couple of the chicken strips. It was good … but I didn’t see what the fuss was all about. To me, it was glorified wonton soup with noodles. I’m not saying I didn’t enjoy it, but it wasn’t anything special. However, the local couple sitting next to me were very special and we had a lovely conversation. When I left, the woman took my hands in hers and kissed my cheek. I thought that was so lovely – and thoroughly indicative of the warmth of the people who live there. I’m glad I had a chance to experience a unique local dish and restaurant … but again, I wouldn’t go out of my way to return. (I know I’m in the minority with this opinion.)

The Kauai Music Festival (the main purpose for my trip) was fantastic. It’s an amazing opportunity for aspiring songwriters and recording artists to study with and be mentored by top music industry pros. There were two concerts open to the public: one featured “Island Music” meaning music made by Hawaii residents, although not necessarily traditional Hawaiian music. The performers included many Grammy winners and I enjoyed all of them – but standouts were Sistah Robi, John Cruz, and Marty Dread. The “gala” concert presented performances by successful pop and country songwriters, and was a huge success.

My last day, after checking out of the hotel I decided to drive South. Stopped for cappuccino in Koloa and continued on to Spouting Horn. There wasn’t any sign, but I pulled over where I saw a crowd at the beach. I enjoyed seeing it, but wouldn’t drive far out of the way just for that. Continuing on through Poipu, I followed the directions to Maha’ulepu beaches, which the guidebook called “A Real Gem.”

Getting to that series of beaches required driving quite a distance (maybe ten or fifteen minutes) on a “dirt” road. It was REALLY bumpy with huge potholes. I went extra slowly, concerned about the rental car. When I finally reached the parking lot and went down the path to the beach I was underwhelmed. It seemed like a generic nice beach – but no better than many others I’d seen with easy access.

“You mean I just drove all this way on this horrible obstacle course for this?” Well, since I was there anyway, I decided to go for a walk. As I continued, the views got better and better and soon I was feeling as if I was seeing views that in their own way, were as beautiful as anything I’d ever seen! I absolutely LOVED it!!!

So what did I learn? Up till now, I’ve been a “North Shore snob.” I felt Poipu and the Eastern Shore were far inferior, offering more of a generic resort feel than true Hawaii. But this time I saw the unique beauty in each area – although I’ll definitely stay in that same condo in Princeville next summer.

For those who (like me) agonize over whether to stay on the “rainy” North Shore – the frequent, brief clouds and showers were not an issue. It rarely rained for more than 15 or 20 minutes and wasn’t a big deal. However, I am wrestling with whether to stay on the North Shore if I return during the rainy season.

I had no a/c at the condo – and didn’t need it as long as I used the fan. The breezes were heavenly and the temps were mostly in the low eighties. It was warmer on the East Shore (upper eighties) -- and there was never any rain until it poured for about thirty minutes on my last day – just as I arrived at beautiful Wailua Falls—which explains why there are no pix of the falls.) I had a/c at the KBR hotel—and needed it.

I also learned that I’m decidedly less adventurous and less willing to take risks now that I’ve hit the big “5 – 0” – and that I love Kauai even more than I thought … and that’s saying a lot!

DP’s $708 airline ticket on ATA was nonrefundable but with a $100 fee it can be used for another ticket to Hawaii. But it must be used by March. So, I have a feeling you’ll be reading another trip report before too long! Oh, goody-goody! I can hardly wait till next year’s festival.

I’ve learned so much from this site. I love it. So, “Mahalo” to all of those who’ve posted and responded to my questions. I hope my report will help some others, as well.

PS. Our precious kitty is sitting right next to me as I type this. I don’t know how long he’ll have left, but I know we’ll feel good knowing we did everything in our power to repay him for the love, companionship and devotion he’s given us.

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Old Aug 18th, 2007, 03:25 PM
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Songdoc, a great trip report! I am glad your cat is better....that is a lot of devotion to a pet!

I haven't been able to access your photos yet but will keep trying.

I really like what you said "Kauai is soooo beautiful, I don’t feel the need to endanger my life (or ruin a vacation) to go to “secret” or “off-the-beaten-path” places when there are so many breathtakingly beautiful places that can be easily and safely accessed."
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Old Aug 18th, 2007, 08:37 PM
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Again, a wonderful report. Great rally on the hiking path, not injuring yourself too bad. You are truly lucky to have black handprints rather then a severe brain injury.

Continue to inspire others about tourist safety in hawaii. As you now know first hand it is essential, and you never know when your words might remind another, and prevent tragedy.

How sad that DP had to stay home. I understand full well why, and hope you both get to share Kauai together. Best wishes to Duncan - funny name! I hope you weren't dunkin him in the drink!
Old Aug 18th, 2007, 09:16 PM
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I loved your report, but seem to be having problems viewing your photos. Are they still on Kodak Gallery? I pasted in the full link, but nothing came up.
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Old Aug 19th, 2007, 06:05 AM
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Thank you, Songdoc, for a fascinating report, and give the kitty a scratch for me! Our pets are our best friends, for sure.
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Old Aug 19th, 2007, 07:08 AM
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Just reread your report and I am glad that you ended up liking Maha'ulepu. The landscape there is unique. I think it is one of the truly special places on an island full of special places.
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Old Aug 19th, 2007, 09:00 AM
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I didn't "like" Maha'ulepu. I LOVED it. I thought it was extraordinarily beautiful -- and ironically the pictures I took there didn't turn out as well as ones I took many other places.

To me, that beach was so different and so unique; it didn't feel like Hawaii at all -- but I've added it to my "must-see" list.

Now ... speaking of pictures, I don't know why my link's not working. I'll work on it.
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Old Aug 19th, 2007, 12:57 PM
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Thank you for this report. I'm so glad Duncan is feeling better. I have a Russian Blue that is a family member to us, just like Duncan is to you. I do understand your connection.

And thank God you didn't get hurt any worse on that hiking trail! Our boat captain (who is also a paramedic on the island) told us scary tales about accidents on that trail.
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Old Aug 19th, 2007, 09:07 PM
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Thanks for a great trip report. There have been several lately & I'm enjoying reading them as a "lead in" to our trip in two weeks

Wishing Duncan a speedy recovery. Your DP is a saint for staying home with him. I have three cats and we would have done the same if need be, they are like children to us. We'll see what they think of a human child in a few months. LOL
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Old Aug 20th, 2007, 04:15 AM
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Fun times, Songdoc. Perhaps when you get your photos back online, you could give us a glimpse of Duncan?????
Old Aug 20th, 2007, 09:12 AM
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Enjoyed your trip report! It sounds like your hike to the falls was brutal (glad you are okay!). We did the 8 mile hike two weeks ago, and luckily we had completely dry conditions. I can't imagine doing it in the rain!! The falls seemed much farther than 2 miles from the 1st beach. Even though it was dry, there were several slippery parts and crossing the streams even seemed a little risky. We saw many, many adults and small children on the trails with flip flops and flimsy shoes. I was wearing hiking shoes and still was constantly turning my ankles on all of the rocks (ouch!) so I don't know how they managed. To be honest, I wouldn't even recommend sneakers. I was wearing an ankle brace from a previous ankle injury and was so wishing I had worn another on my good ankle for prevention purposes!

Your description of how much you dislike snorkeling made me chuckle
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Old Aug 21st, 2007, 05:36 AM
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The new and improved link to the photos (including a picture of "Duncan" -- by popular demand) is:


Thank you to all who have offered "get well" wishes to the kitty. We're trying everything possible -- but it's not looking good.
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