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Even Better the Second Time Around - Maggi's 2004 Oahu and Kauai Adventure

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Even Better the Second Time Around - Maggi's 2004 Oahu and Kauai Adventure

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Old Aug 16th, 2004, 03:51 AM
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Even Better the Second Time Around - Maggi's 2004 Oahu and Kauai Adventure

It was brought to my attention that my first post did not come up on a Hawaii search, so I am reposting it for the benefit of those searching Hawaii information in the future.

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Ever since our first trip to the islands two years ago, I have been dreaming, plotting and planning a way to return. We were somehow able to miraculously amass enough FF miles to add up to first class tickets from Detroit to Honolulu. We were further blessed by the company of our best friends of 24 years. She was attending the APA conference in Honolulu, thus our first week was on Oahu.

We had made arrangements for a rental house on Sunset Beach, called Sunset Hale. Some of you may recall that we had a near disaster with the Kahana Kai Estate in the Kahana Bay area which held our deposit since last August. In February a Fodors reader informed me that the estate seemed to be no longer available; phone numbers and website were inoperative. A day?s worth of long distance telephone sleuthing paid off and I was able to track down the owner. Her husband had died and she was living with her daughter. Eventually, we were able to get our deposit back from her. (She claimed she had tried to mail it, but it ?came back?.) At such a late date, I was lucky to obtain the above-mentioned rental, Sunset Hale.

Flying first class was a dream. It was so great to be greeted at your seat with a Mai Tai! Being able to recline the seat all the way and put your feet up made the 8 ? hour ride so much more bearable. The food was better than coach, although still not gourmet quality, by any means. But the service was excellent. I may use my FF miles exclusively to upgrade in the future.

The house exceeded all our expectations. The furnishings, location, and view were all better than depicted on the website. There was a 35? TV, VCR, CD player and state of the art kitchen appliances, matching dishes and silverware, good knives and quality linens. They had even had a billards table in the great room. The large sheltered front porch with wicker furniture and a brand new gas grill directly overlooked the ocean and we spent many a happy hour there. There were two bikes for our use. (There is a bike/walking path right behind the house that goes on for miles along the beaches.)


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Old Aug 16th, 2004, 03:52 AM
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Sunset Beach was calmer than in the winter and it was possible to swim there. Sunsets were spectacular! We spent quite a bit of time at Sharks Cove for snorkeling. It had been my wish to see a turtle, but I am a wuss when it comes to water, so I floated around in the shallow part while everybody else blithely swam around in the deep end. Imagine my surprise when a huge turtle swam right by me three times in the shallows. Laniakia Beach was also a great spot to see turtles sunning themselves in the sand. My delight was tinged with sadness because despite the Do not touch the turtles sign kids and people were crowding around them, touching them and poking them with sticks. I felt like the turtle police, telling them to back off.

We didn?t eat out much, preferring to grill on our porch. Foodland, a few miles away, carried everything we needed to make romantic candlelit dinners. We had to try the original Giovanni?s Shrimp everyone is always raving about. I don?t think I?ve every had so much garlic in my life. The shrimp are swimming in butter and garlic. They are greasy, salty and yes, they are really good. I got a kick out of all the graffiti on the truck. There?s not an inch of spare space to write your name on. We had a very good pizza from the joint across the street from our rental. And we went early to snag a chocolate haupia pie from Ted?s Bakery.

Our beach house was so nice, it was hard to drag ourselves away, but I had purchased tickets to the Polynesian Cultural Center, luau and evening show. We spent another blissful day wandering around Waimea Falls Park and swimming in the refreshing pool by the waterfall. Waimea Bay is so picturesque, my heart leapt each time we rounded the curve and caught sight of it. Haleiwa was fun too, but really crowded and congested with cars, especially around Matsumotos shave ice. I got a kick out of the stretch limos that were always parked out front. A circle tour of the island convinced us that we had dodged a bullet when our first rental didn?t work out. The Kahana Bay house looked rundown and the water on that part of the windward side was very choppy and not as inviting as our beach on the north shore.

While our friends spent a few nights in Honolulu for the conference my husband and I amused ourselves by visiting some of the resorts for comparison purposes. At Ko Olina we valet parked (by a very snooty valet who reminded us that if we were using the beach, we needed to have our ticket validated at the restaurant and we had to be back in two hours.) We got our expensive, watered down Mai Tais and headed down to the lagoon to swim. The water was not inviting, warmish and murky. We didn?t stay long enough to violate the two hour rule. Later I checked out the Turtle Bay resort as well. At least there they provide accessible public parking close to the beach, but again I found the water less appealing than in front of our own house. Back in the Honolulu area, we enjoyed several drinks at the La Mariana Sailing Club and I chatted with the owner, a charming elderly woman with a fascinating story.
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Old Aug 16th, 2004, 03:52 AM
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Our last night at Sunset Hale we were treated to a specially nice sunset as we polished off the last of the red wine we didn?t want to transport to Kauai the next day.

My husband and I fell in love with Kauai the first time around, two years ago. My friend Mary felt it the moment we began our drive from Lihue to the north shore. A feeling just washes over you that is tangible. The lushness and fragrance of the terrain holds promise that does not disappoint later. Anini Beach House was about a hour?s drive on the secluded part of Anini Beach that is past the public park and polo field almost to the end of the road. In his youth, Marlon Brando honeymooned at the house two doors down. Once again, we were astonished that the house exceeded all the photos on the website. The upscale furnishings, artwork and thoughtful touches were wonderful, but the kicker was the huge wrap-around deck with floor to ceiling windows that made you feel as if you were living outside. Kudos to my friend Joan who has recommended it often on this forum.

The turquoise water of Anini Beach was calm as glass, the calmest beach I had seen on our entire trip. It was great for snorkeling or just for floating on an air mattress with a Mai Tai and a good book. On the last day, the beach offered up a gift to my friend Mary: a huge, unbroken, perfect shell sitting in the shallow water right in front of our house. We found the best snorkeling to be at Ke?e Beach. Our husbands stayed on the beach while we hiked the first part of the Kalalau Trail. Two hours later, our appetites were only whetted to come back and do more. What an unforgettable experience! The cool and clear water at Ke?e was so inviting after the hot and dusty hike. Once again I found myself angry with the cluelessness of scores of people blithely walking all over the reef! There were so many doing that, it would have been futile to try to prevent it. We made a short visit to Tunnels Beach which was choppy and both my husband, my friend and her husband were injured when the waves pushed them up onto the coral. Lumihai Beach was so beautiful, but certainly not for going in the water. Not too long ago a couple were washed off the rocks to their deaths, while their 11 year old son was left on shore. As we left the beach area, we noticed a memorial in the sand made of rocks, sticks and shells, that read ?Mom? and ?Dad?. We made the hike to Hideaways Beach and were awed by the fearsome power of the water.

Later that week the four of us were celebrating important wedding anniversaries and we had reservations at Bali Hai Restaurant at Hanalei Bay Resort. Our front table faced the famous view and we were treated to the most spectacular sunset of our lives. Waiting for it was a little difficult, because it was hot and the sun shone directly in our eyes for over an hour beforehand. But the end result was worth every drop of sweat. Due to a tropical storm, Kauai, and all the islands in general, had experienced an unusual amount of sporadic rain, but the weather for our special evening was picture perfect. The food was very good and beautifully presently and we were very satisfied with our choice for the evening.



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Old Aug 16th, 2004, 03:53 AM
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The husbands took the Movie Tour van and had a lot of fun, while my friend did some horseback riding at CJM Stables. I played chauffeur and found myself with a couple hours on my hands. As I drove, I happened upon my favorite Kauai radio station, KKCR and just happened to catch Auntie Maria?s show (she often posts very good advice on this board and was very helpful to me personally.) Loved her mix of authentic Hawaiian music. Following my nose, I ended up on a nearly secluded beach with a small knot of people looking at something through binoculars. There was a mother monk seal with her four day old pup just a few hundred feet away. Reveling in the unexpected pleasure I wiled away much of the time observing the antics of the active pup as it circled around it?s mum.

We lunched at Brennecke?s Beach Broiler, enjoying the warm breeze through the open deck view of the water. Another place we can highly recommend was Coconuts. Loved the décor, the food (took Kal?s suggestion of lobster ravioli pupus) and the dessert (coconut flan) was to die for. The artwork by Kim McDonald is colorful and whimsical. I had seen her stuff in Hanalei earlier in the week. (I especially love her depiction of queen-sized nude women dancing with abandon on the beach. Ah, the magic of Kauai. It makes everyone feel beautiful.) Speaking of queen-sized, Lappert?s Ice Cream in Princeville has great ice cream (my favorite is Kauai Pie). Coconut/Guava sherbet is great too. Lappert?s is probably the most expensive ice cream you will ever eat, but IMO, oh so worth it.

One of our most memorable evenings was at Tahiti Nui on a rainy Friday evening. Like everywhere else in Hawaii, the shutters were wide open and the balmy rainy made it feel cozy to be inside. The small bar/restaurant was filled with a welcoming local crowd and the musical entertainment was remarkable. It was sort of a Hawaiian Cheers ?where everybody knows your name?kind of place. We met an interesting older couple who had moved to Hanalei 30 years ago and were active in the polo club and the Hanalei historical society. We heard all sorts of stories from them about Tahiti Nui and the people of Hanalei and Kauai. With reluctance, we tore ourselves away. If we lived there we would surely be there at least one night a week.

Our last day was spent lounging around our house and beach, trying to cram all our purchases into already full suitcases. We bought lots of coconut syrup, kukui nut lotions and chocolate covered macadamias, so we could share some of the aloha with our loved ones back home. Alas, real life has returned with a vengeance, but the gift of our two weeks in Hawaii will be with us always.




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Old Aug 16th, 2004, 10:03 AM
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Maggi

Thanks for a wonderful trip report. We are going in just 7 weeks ( I am counting the weeks nowj) Can you tell me where the Tahiti Nui restaurant is in Hanalie? We will be staying on the north shore for part of our Kauai trip?
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Old Aug 16th, 2004, 11:24 AM
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Counting the weeks? Soon you will be counting the days, then the minutes... You will be there at a perfect time of year. We were there mid-September two years ago and loved it. Hanalei is small, and although Tahiti Nui is small, you won't miss it. Driving in the direction of Ke'e Beach and Haena on Kuhio Highway (56) you will pass Princeville. Coming into Hanalei you will pass the fish market and some shops. Tahiti Nui will be on your right on the same side as the Ching Young shopping center. Have a memorable trip and remember, just hang loose and enjoy.
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Old Aug 16th, 2004, 05:13 PM
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Great report....thanks
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Old Aug 17th, 2004, 04:05 AM
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Maggi - what a great trip report. I got so excited reading it. We will be leaving for our "home away from home" in 49 sleeps. While we are returning to Maui and BI, this will be our first trip to Kauai. We plan on spending most of our five days there hiking.
Mahalo!
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Old Aug 17th, 2004, 05:18 AM
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Awesome! I know you will love Kauai and hiking is the best way to experience it. Are you doing the Kalalau trail? I can't wait to get back there to do more of it. We will await your trip report when you get back. Have a great time in paradise.
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Old Aug 17th, 2004, 09:13 AM
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Maggi
What a terrific report. I am so excited about our trip to Oahau the day after Xmas. Like you, I upgrades to first class with frequent flyer miles. I am so excited about flying first class and so are the kids. We are leaving from Detroit on NW Airlines.
I am so looking forward to exploring all of the places you talked about. We are staying in Kailua in a house right across the street from Kailua Beach. I have talked many times with Susie Bryson, the owner and feel confident we are going to love our house.
I hope to post as wonderful a report as you when I return to Michigan in January. Thanks again.
Karen
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Old Aug 17th, 2004, 11:24 AM
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OOh, Karen the kids are going to be spoiled for life once they fly first. It's really worth it for such a long distance (and from Detroit it's a looong way) to be able to put your feet up and really be able to sleep. I'm sure you will all have a great time. What lucky kids!
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Old Aug 17th, 2004, 03:52 PM
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great trip report, thanks,
I have to read it again, as I didnt have time to really read the whole thing, but what I did read was great.
my husband and I will be in Kauai for out first time in a few weeks, we are staying at the Princeville, where is Anini beach in respect to the Princeville?
it sounds like the water was gorgeous!

thanks
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Old Aug 17th, 2004, 05:27 PM
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From Princeville turn left onto the main drag (Kuhio Hwy) to Kahiliwai Road, turn left again. At the fork bear to the left and keep going. You will see Anini Beach Park on your right. (Note: there is another Kahiliwai Road later on closer to Kilauea. Make sure and take the first one you come to from Princeville.)

I wish you a great trip. Let us know how it went when you get back. Aloha.

Maggi
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Old Aug 21st, 2004, 08:38 AM
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Maggi:

Thanks for the trip report. We just booked the Anini Beach House for next June (based on all the great reviews on this site) and can't wait. Can you tell me any more about the house? The owner site doesn't have any pictures of the bedrooms. Also how far is the beach house from Haena and Tunnels and Ke'e Beach? We're looking forward to seeing both.

longtail
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Old Aug 21st, 2004, 08:57 AM
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Maggi, thanks for the great trip report, the details in the Kauai portion were so helpful for us since we'll staying in Princeville next week and can't wait to get to experience some of the fun myself!

You mentioned your husband enjoyed the movie tour, do you have any more info on that? I tried going to a site about it but there weren't really any specifics.

Only 7 more days
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Old Aug 21st, 2004, 09:21 AM
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Since Maggi hasn't answered yet...8-)

Drive time (non-stop) from `Anini to:
Makua ("Tunnels") -- approx 15 minutes
Haena Beach -- approx 17 minutes
Ke`e -- approx 20 minutes

The movie tour is fun. Because we live here and visitors ask us for info on the "tourist stuff", we took the all-day tour last year. Loved it -- especially the access to private property (Coco Palms Hotel, Kipu Kai Ranch) that is only given to tours like this.
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Old Aug 21st, 2004, 03:04 PM
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Thanks to auntie (our resident expert on Kauai). Hubby really enjoyed the movie tour. Not a surprise since he has the world's largest collection of DVD's. They did the 4x4 tour which is the one where you go to Kipu ranch and see where Harrison Ford swung into the water, etc. They really enjoyed all the history behind the Coco Palms Hotel. Their stories made me want to see "Blue Hawaii" again. The wedding scene was filmed there and was memorable to me as a young teenage girl.

Re the Anini Beach House, it was a bit of a drive to get anywhere, but that didn't matter to us since we were glad to be in such a private location (and the drive is gorgeous.) The decor was tasteful, good quality, good art. Books, TV, stereo, everything you needed to feel at home. We were especially impressed with the mood lighting inside and outside of the house. There are two good sized bedrooms with two master baths. One has a jacuzzi tub. The view from the bedroom windows was a lush green landscape, bird of paradise, heliconia. The landscaping is really nice, much more developed than the website shows (must be an older pic.) There are some photos on my Webshots page (click on Kauai 2004 - you can enlarge the pics by clicking on them):
http://community.webshots.com/user/maggiwun
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Old Aug 22nd, 2004, 03:50 PM
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Hey Maggi. Thanks for the information on the Anini Beach House. Sounds like you really enjoyed it. Question: If you were to return to Kauai, would you choose to stay at the Beach House again? That always seems to be a good indicator of how much you liked the place. It sounds perfect for us. We like the idea of being secluded and off the beaten track and don't mind having to drive 15-20 minutes to dinner or the beaches. Your pictures were great! My husband looked at one the shots of the beach house that you took (compared to the same shot on the owner's site) and couldn't believe it was the same place. The place really does look amazing. I'm sure I'll have more questions about Kauai as we get closer to planning our activities. Right now, we're looking forward to a horseback riding excursion at Princeville, a boat excursion of the Napali Cost, touring the botanical gardens and the waterfalls, and checking our Tunnels and Ke'e Beach. So much to do. I've also enjoyed reading everyone's reports on Kauai and input from you, Auntie Marie and everyone else , and have picked up some great tips.

Thanks.
Longtail
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Old Aug 22nd, 2004, 06:32 PM
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We'd go back to the Anini Beach House in a heartbeat (and probably will). Heck, if I could afford it, I'd buy the place. If you stay there, I predict you will have a hard time tearing yourself away to do all your planned activities. I couldn't do justice to the indoor shots because you just couldn't capture the interior and exterior views in one photo. Either the outside was too light or the inside too dark. I loved being able to see blue sky and sea from the kitchen and living room and the wrap-around deck.

How long are you planning to be on Kauai? Don't overplan. Allow yourself some time to just relax and feel the aloha.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2004, 04:44 PM
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ggrtist, FYI, I just noticed on their website that Hawaii Movie Tours no longer include Kipu Ranch as part of their program. I wonder why?
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