Part 3 of 3

My six days of bliss on the North Shore passed much too quickly and I truly grieved leaving my little slice of heaven. But it was time to move to the Hilton Kauai Beach Resort on the East Shore (between Lihue and Kapa’a) where I’d be teaching and performing at the annual Kauai Music Festival.

The KBR room was fine—but I had no view and I’d been spoiled. (FYI, there are ocean view rooms available at an additional fee, but they can’t compare with the views I’d had from Sealodge.) The hotel is fronted by a beautiful beach (although not safe for swimming) and has a very nice pool and several spas. Each evening at six, there were pleasant performances of traditional live music and hula dancers at the pool, during a torch lighting ceremony. Unfortunately, I had quite a few cockroaches and ants in my room. Other than that, no complaints – and no one else seemed to be having the problem.

I started each morning with a long walk along that beautiful stretch of beach and one morning I walked all the way to Lydgate Park. Round trip (with a ten minute swim to cool down) took about 2-1/2 hours and was a wonderful, relaxing way to spend the morning.

I’d been to Kauai previously and had already seen many of the sights – including the spectacular Waimea Canyon (a definite “must-see”), so I was content to take it easy and enjoy simply being in paradise, instead of feeling the need to cram in obligatory sights.

I was only teaching and performing a few hours a day, so I did lots of those blissful beach walks. I did enjoy return visits to Opaeka’a Falls (and walked across the road to admire the views of the Wailua River and the sacred areas nearby) and Wailua Falls. They were both close to the hotel and just as beautiful as I remembered.

A highlight of most mornings on the East Shore was breakfast at Kountry Kitchen in Kapa’a. Those massive banana and macadamia nut pancakes are simply the best-tasting things that have ever set foot in my mouth! OMG. I’d go for my long walks after breakfast in vain hopes of walking off those calories, but I’d have needed to swim to Australia to accomplish that ? Two pancakes left me stuffed (and I’m a big eater!). The luau omelet also comes highly recommended. Using the bypasses cut out the worst of the traffic in Kapa’a. Thank you Auntie!!!

Papaya’s natural foods store in Kapa’a has a few outdoor tables and I enjoyed the salad bar and selection of a few hot vegetarian entrees, hoping to offset the morning’s pancakes! Um, I guess stopping for ice cream at Cold Stone Creamery a few doors down afterwards sort of defeated the purpose ?. (Hey, I got the sugar free/fat free variety!)

The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook (which I highly recommend) became my guide to inexpensive “local” restaurants. My first visit to Waipouli Restaurant was good – but not spectacular. I had tasty kalua pork and cabbage. No atmosphere; in a strip mall … but a large menu and reasonable prices. My friend said her shrimp tempura was excellent. My second visit was only because I was stuck in traffic and had to return to teach. The restaurant was right next to me and I pulled in. This time I ordered the beef and broccoli, expecting the standard stringy strips of beef most Chinese restaurants serve …but was I ever wrong! It was incredible; the most succulent, tender roast beef in a heavenly gravy, along with broccoli and rice. WOW!

Based on many recommendations, I tried Kauai Pasta in Kapa’a and it was FANTASTIC. While there’s not much atmosphere, the house pasta and house salad, as well as the presentation were top notch. Yum!!!

After reading so many raves I was compelled to try Hamura’s in Lihue, but it was packed and I gave up, settling instead for the Lihue Barbecue Inn, a few doors down. It was fine – but I didn’t feel it deserved an “Ono” or a return visit. But not to be daunted, I returned another day to Hamura’s. This time, I found one of the last remaining counter seats. The patrons were almost all locals and luckily, those sitting next to me explained the “menu” (actually, just a few items listed on a board). It made no sense to me. I couldn’t tell if there were different varieties of saimon – or only different sizes.

I went for the “special” saimin and a couple of the chicken strips. It was good … but I didn’t see what the fuss was all about. To me, it was glorified wonton soup with noodles. I’m not saying I didn’t enjoy it, but it wasn’t anything special. However, the local couple sitting next to me were very special and we had a lovely conversation. When I left, the woman took my hands in hers and kissed my cheek. I thought that was so lovely – and thoroughly indicative of the warmth of the people who live there. I’m glad I had a chance to experience a unique local dish and restaurant … but again, I wouldn’t go out of my way to return. (I know I’m in the minority with this opinion.)

The Kauai Music Festival (the main purpose for my trip) was fantastic. It’s an amazing opportunity for aspiring songwriters and recording artists to study with and be mentored by top music industry pros. There were two concerts open to the public: one featured “Island Music” meaning music made by Hawaii residents, although not necessarily traditional Hawaiian music. The performers included many Grammy winners and I enjoyed all of them – but standouts were Sistah Robi, John Cruz, and Marty Dread. The “gala” concert presented performances by successful pop and country songwriters, and was a huge success.

My last day, after checking out of the hotel I decided to drive South. Stopped for cappuccino in Koloa and continued on to Spouting Horn. There wasn’t any sign, but I pulled over where I saw a crowd at the beach. I enjoyed seeing it, but wouldn’t drive far out of the way just for that. Continuing on through Poipu, I followed the directions to Maha’ulepu beaches, which the guidebook called “A Real Gem.”

Getting to that series of beaches required driving quite a distance (maybe ten or fifteen minutes) on a “dirt” road. It was REALLY bumpy with huge potholes. I went extra slowly, concerned about the rental car. When I finally reached the parking lot and went down the path to the beach I was underwhelmed. It seemed like a generic nice beach – but no better than many others I’d seen with easy access.

“You mean I just drove all this way on this horrible obstacle course for this?” Well, since I was there anyway, I decided to go for a walk. As I continued, the views got better and better and soon I was feeling as if I was seeing views that in their own way, were as beautiful as anything I’d ever seen! I absolutely LOVED it!!!

So what did I learn? Up till now, I’ve been a “North Shore snob.” I felt Poipu and the Eastern Shore were far inferior, offering more of a generic resort feel than true Hawaii. But this time I saw the unique beauty in each area – although I’ll definitely stay in that same condo in Princeville next summer.

For those who (like me) agonize over whether to stay on the “rainy” North Shore – the frequent, brief clouds and showers were not an issue. It rarely rained for more than 15 or 20 minutes and wasn’t a big deal. However, I am wrestling with whether to stay on the North Shore if I return during the rainy season.

I had no a/c at the condo – and didn’t need it as long as I used the fan. The breezes were heavenly and the temps were mostly in the low eighties. It was warmer on the East Shore (upper eighties) -- and there was never any rain until it poured for about thirty minutes on my last day – just as I arrived at beautiful Wailua Falls—which explains why there are no pix of the falls.) I had a/c at the KBR hotel—and needed it.

I also learned that I’m decidedly less adventurous and less willing to take risks now that I’ve hit the big “5 – 0” – and that I love Kauai even more than I thought … and that’s saying a lot!

DP’s $708 airline ticket on ATA was nonrefundable but with a $100 fee it can be used for another ticket to Hawaii. But it must be used by March. So, I have a feeling you’ll be reading another trip report before too long! Oh, goody-goody! I can hardly wait till next year’s festival.

I’ve learned so much from this site. I love it. So, “Mahalo” to all of those who’ve posted and responded to my questions. I hope my report will help some others, as well.

PS. Our precious kitty is sitting right next to me as I type this. I don’t know how long he’ll have left, but I know we’ll feel good knowing we did everything in our power to repay him for the love, companionship and devotion he’s given us.

Post all of your parts on the same thread or they'll get lost. Just reply to your part 1 of 1 and copy and paste part 2, etc.

Sounds like a great trip!

Songdoc, I enjoyed reading your report and am curious to know what you teach and perform. Song....doc....hmmmmm.

DH and I stayed at the Princeville Resort and loved the beach there, too. So sorry about your fall! Glad you weren't seriously injured.

Our kitty was diagnosed with renal failure at 15--we gave her sub-q fluids for about a year a half thereafter and she lived to be 17--you just never know. We cancelled a trip to Italy in order to stay home and care for her so I understand where you're coming from. Wishing you all the best.

The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook (which I highly recommend)

Just want to add that we also think this book (and the Maui version)are excellent resources.

Glad to hear your kitty is ok (our's had a similar problem and didn't make it, at age 13).

Sorry to hear about your fall to the waterfall. We did that hike in 2005 and thank god it was not raining. On the way back Martin slipped on the trail and went sliding down a hill for about 6 feet. He sprained is wrist and banged up his knee pretty good. People underestimate the difficulty of that hike. You're absolutely right, Kaua'i is not an amusement park.

The baby hammerheads were cute!

Glad your kitty is better.

As suggested, I've added parts 2 & 3 as responses to part 1. Thanks. Apparently, I'm still brain-dead.

Bill, so sorry to learn about Martin's fall. I guess it underscores how dangerous some of those trails can be.

"Songdoc" teaches ... SONGWRITING I'm soooo lucky; I get to teach in some extraordinary places. I return to Kauai and Ireland every year, as well as a Caribbean songwriting cruise, Los Angeles, and Lake Tahoe. I've also taught in Bermuda, Norway, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, and more mainland U.S. cities than I can count.

Life is tough ;-)

Thanks to those who commented about the cat and shared your own experiences -- good and sad. I'm accepting that it's touch and go -- and I'm grateful to have whatever "bonus" time we get, and to have done whatever we could.

good report. glad everything turned out and you made it home in one piece. i use hiking boots and my ol' trusty-rusty ski pole on most trails. there was this lady hiking, had an asthma attack (what she was doing on the trail was beyond me). i told her friend to go ahead get close to town and call paramedics. long story short, it took us five hours to go back down (same people passed us 2x on the trail - hanakapai and back) with paramedics waiting. two had already hiked in to us. she was so grateful and wanted to do something for me, at the time i was just glad she was on flat land. hmmm, now that i think of it, i should’ve asked for gas money!