Savannah-short & sweet

Old Jun 21st, 2004, 08:56 PM
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Savannah-short & sweet


I will try to keep this short and sweet, impressions and information rather than a step by step trip report..

Jax Fl is 140 miles from Savannah, we made the trip in about 2 hours. It helps to have a mad Yankee behind the wheel and no traffic.

We stayed at the Hyatt Regency, on Bay St & River St.
We got a B&B package, a little expensive, but so are the rest of the B&Bs and hotels in town.
The location was excellent, the rooms were a wee bit tired but we lucked out with a Bay St view on the corner which also gave us a river view. Ask for that room!
It was incredibly hot and humid..I know it is the Deep South, but this was even making the locals sweat! Happily , as you walk from square to square, there are more than enough cafes, tea rooms, bookstores and galleries to go into and take breaks from the heat and do some fun shopping or at least browsing.
I managed to do both.

River St is both fun and tacky, plenty of tee shirt shops and restaurants as well as a couple of artist shops that were fun..
That is where you will find the freshly made pralines..... so sweet and tasty! I managed to eat just one chocolate covered praline, I think that might be a record for me.

We thought we might take a horse and carriage tour or a Trolley tour, but since it was so hot, we ended up doing our own walking and exploring. They were hosing the horses down in City Market trying to keep them cool, how could I ask one to pull me around town!?

We walked from the Hotel on Bay St to Forsythe Park..stopping at E.Shavers bookstore (Thank you Olive Oyl) ..taking photos of every statue, most of the houses and a lot of the flowers. ( dln- I took many garden photos!)
And a photo of the old guy carrying a big sign that said They Plan To Murder Us.
I did not ask him who They were.

There were so many galleries ( Gallery 440 on Bull St ) is very nice. City Market with all the artist spaces .and tea rooms, the Gryphon ( high tea) is appealing, and churches and historic houses, waaay too much to try to see in two days.

But we did see All the squares and we went to the Telfair Museum, a welcome respite from the heat and walking and a peaceful lovely small museum.
The little girl statue from Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil was in the museum as well as a really nice painting of Kahlil Gibran as a young man. And there was a very touching and powerful painting called The Black Prince of Crecy- (the 16 year old Prince of Wales standing over the body of an old blind knight who has fallen in battle during the 100 Years War..) It is worth a stop when visiting Savannah.

And now for the Food Part!

Restaurants! So many, how and which to choose!?
We had a late lunch at The River House on River Street.. very fresh and tasty!
Dinner...Garibaldi's on Congress Street. Downstairs, dark and quiet, upstairs (where we ate) a wonderful Ballroom! Huge windows, huge mirrors with gilt frames and huge chandeliers overhead. It would have made a great apartment!
I had a whole scored Flounder (whole,head and bones) and the Yankee had Duck and risotto..both excellent. Dessert : Fruit sorbet and chocolate tart..
Half a bottle of Pinot Noir brought the total for the two of us (with appetizers) to $100-
Saturday lunch was a small cafe on a side street near the Telfair and we had lemonade and cinnamon scones. Home made and delicious.
Saturday dinner: The Olde Pink House...the most haunted and photographed house in Savannah according to our waiter-Kevin.
A perfect waiter btw.
I had roast portabello mushroom with grilled tomotoes, and seared Halibut with potato au gratin and dessert was flourless chocolate tort..(of course)
The Yankee had artichoke fritters stuffed with goat cheese and Grouper stuffed with blue crab with a twice baked potato..dessert was sorbet.
Glasses of wine and the bill came to $110-

We never found out why, but as we came into our hotel room after dinner Saturday night, they had a fireworks show on the river, which we were able to watch from our room. It was a perfect ending to an almost perfect weekend.

We will probably go back in the fall and see all the Historical Houses that we missed. It is a lovely town, the people were without exception, polite and friendly and helpful.
I think I could live there if I had really super air conditioning in my home ~

Thanks to all who gave me advice and helped me plan this trip..
Scarlett
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Old Jun 21st, 2004, 09:17 PM
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bonniebroad
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So glad you enjoyed Savannah and the Hyatt and the River House, Miz Scarlett! I've never had a bad meal at The River House...........
 
Old Jun 21st, 2004, 10:11 PM
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Excellent report, Scarlett. It's nice that you are so close -- easy to go for a weekend. I've never been to Savannah, but have wanted to visit since I read "the book."
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Old Jun 21st, 2004, 10:12 PM
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Scarlett! Your trip report reminded me of all the good places we've visited on our many trips to Savannah. I like River Street, which as you pointed out, does have its tacky bits but also has those throngs of people and hustle and bustle. It IS fun to wander around down there. I like sitting with a nice cool drink and watching the freighters go by. My children, when they were young, liked to play in the fountain and in that sandbox that's shaped like a row boat.

I had forgotten about the booksellers--that was good of Olive Oyl to tell you about that. Isn't it an interesting shop?

Any favorite squares? Monterey is mine. I'm not surprised you mentioned the heat. I don't think anything is hotter than a coastal town in the summer, whether it's Savannah, Charleston, or New Orleans (yes, I've done them ALL in the summer...!)
 
Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 05:05 AM
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Welcome home. Glad you had a nice time. Thanks for the report.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 05:25 AM
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Hi Scarlett! Great report! Nice balance of history, culture and yummy eats. Makes me hungry for another trip to the sultry south!
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Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 06:19 AM
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Did you encounter any of those "noseeums" (small biting flies) while you were there? I recently posted asking about this.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 06:24 AM
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Hi! Thank you all

Craig, we saw no insects, mosquitos or no seeums..it might have been too hot for them I have dealt with those little buggars before-in St Martin and Jamaica, there was no problem this weekend in Savannah.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 07:04 AM
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Scarlett, did Pup have a good time while you were away? I gather he didn't make the trip with you.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 07:08 AM
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Well, too bad the trip was so brief. Don't toss the ideas you were sent. A return visit makes sense.
 
Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 07:12 AM
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Pup stayed here with a sitter and was spoiled rotten.
Yesterday was his birthday so we had a party and he forgave us for leaving him. He would have been a miserable pup in that heat ((&))

I am definitely saving all the lists that everyone was so kind to give me..when our son visits, we will try to spend a few days in Savannah, hopefully, in cooler weather.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 09:08 AM
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H'lo darlin'

Glad you "did" the Olde Pink House -- they seem to specialize in great waitstaff, as well as history and good food. Did you happen to see the bar in the basement? Straight out of "Midnight" for gracious plus decadent.

When we came back from our first visit, we ran out to rent and re-watch "Midnight" movie, despite my feeling that the locals in the tackier shops kind of beat that movie to death.

Did you see any of the gardens in bloom ? --it's a bit late for the spring spectacular but the crepe myrtles (crape?) should have been lovely, and I love Spanish moss wherever it is.
 
Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 09:24 AM
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... for future reference: Sapphire Grill downstairs, where it's cooler and the service is better, as indictade. It's quiet, so not to worry. The upstairs is warm, and when there's humidity, it's uncomfortable up there.
 
Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 09:29 AM
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Short and sweet report, also a cheery one to brightemn this grey dreary day as we wait for MORE rain.
Belated birthday wishes from Misha to pup.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 09:30 AM
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We did wait for a minute for our table, downstairs in the Pink House bar. Dark and crowded with someone playing a piano. I was too warm and cranky to appreciate it, I wanted a table in front of an a/c..
The wait staff in all of the restaurants were great, this one guy, Kevin, was just so amiable and spoke of his love for Savannah, where he was born and raised.
There is an art gallery in the City Market that is owned and run by 3 women artists. One of them was Chinese and painted the most wonderful watercolors of poppies and birds.
The gardens were full of hydrangeas, big ones! Pink and white flowers were in the trees too. Crepe Myrtles are still in bloom, as they are here in Jax..what a pretty tree!
Did you know that once a year, the city of Jax gives away 2 crepe myrtles to any and all residents?
All I remember about the movie was Kevin Spacy and I think Jude Law?
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Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 09:31 AM
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Merci, cigale!
Pup wishes Misha and you a dry sunny day!
At least there is no drought in Boston
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Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 09:40 AM
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Scarlett, when you go back to Savannah in cooler weather, you will REALLY, REALLY enjoy the place. Maybe it's just me, but if I visit a place for the first time, and I'm melting and sweltering every time I step outside, I just can't appreciate it as I want to! I tell people to visit Savannah and Charleston in Spring or Fall for the first time......... But it's always lovely, just sometimes too steaming for me! (As is Raleigh, and I live here!)
 
Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 09:50 AM
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I love Savannah any time of year but the weather this weekend was horrendous.

When I ran Friday morning, the heat index was already at 92 degrees at 8AM.

Glad you had such a good time!
 
Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 09:53 AM
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Movie: Kevin Spacey and John Cusack, directed by Clint Eastwood (w/daughter in movie as un-needed love interest). Excellent for atmosphere, fun to see scenes where you've walked, and who could forget the Lady Chablis?
 
Old Jun 22nd, 2004, 10:22 AM
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Miss Scarlett, a friend and I are tentatively planning on going to either Savannah or New Orleans; I think I may opt for Savannah! (although the thought of running into Anne Rice in a local café in New Orleans does sound enticing ? but never any guarantee, no cherie?).

Loved the resto report. Thank you, chica! Glad the mad Yankee was able to get you there and back in a mad dash with no injuries!!

What guide books did you use? Did you find it necessary to have a good map or did you just wander & meander? I only ask because DLN mentions fave squares and I?m hoping a good map will have them named.

I really enjoyed your report!!



I so love hydrangeas!!!!!
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