Santa Fe Trip Report
Aug 16th, 2004, 12:24 PM
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Santa Fe Trip Report
Just back from a four day trip to Santa Fe.
- Stayed at La Tienda, a pleasant B&B five blocks west of the Plaza. Only complaint was early evening street noise (our room faced the street). Streets weren't busy but some folks there have loud cars! Book early, we had a tough time finding a B&B room under $200/nt for early August and we booked in April.
- We really enjoyed all the old adobe churches in Santa Fe and elsewhere
- Shopping in Santa Fe was unbelievable, must be more shop/gallery space per capita than anywhere else in U.S. Galleries seemed overpriced to us for the quality of art displayed. Canyon Road prices were astronomical. Some stores, especially jewelry stores, were advertising big sales (inventory liquidation!!!, 75% off!!!, etc) but on inspection these stores had grossly inflated list prices and then marked them down in their "sales" - very annoying to us - caveat emptor. Don't miss the native American market at the Palace of the Governors.
Visited O'Keefe Museum - interesting but suprisingly small museum.
Santa Fe is a walker's town - leave your car in place where it's parked while in town.
- Side trips
1) Taos - full day R/T from SF, more laid back than Santa Fe and of course smaller. Still charming. Don't miss Taos Pueblo - wonderful setting and site and fascinating native American market. We also liked Rancho de Taos - old adobe shop buildings surrounding adobe church, and bridge over Rio Grande gorge (we walked over bridge, not for those afraid of heights - fabulous view). Returned via "high road" to Santa Fe. Pretty drive but not well marked, we missed Chimayo which we wanted to see.
2) "Jemez Trail" - NM rt 4; and unexpected treat, beautiful all day loop drive. Don't miss Bandelier Nat. Mon. - ancient Anasazi cliff dwellings, other great sights along the way - White Rock overlook, Valles Grande caldera, Jemez Falls, Springs, Pueblo, Red Rocks and the Soda Dam.
The main road north of Santa Fe (US 285/84) is undergoing substantial construction so allow extra time going north, even to the Opera House. Speed is restricted and the road is heavily patrolled. In fact all NM roads seemed heavily patrolled.
Restaurants we liked:
Coyote Cafe (rooftop cantina - sit on the edge and see the sunset and street goings on)
O'Keefes - delightful outdoor patio
Il Piatto - wonderful Italian al fresco dining - pumpkin ravioli with sage butter awesome - service though slow but with a good bottle of wine and great weather who cared
Doc Martin's (Taos) - more al fresco dining; chile rellenos in blue corn tortila batter the size of bananas - terrific
Laughing Lizard Cafe - (Jemez Springs) tasty buffalo burritos
Tulips - elegant dining in a restored adobe house, terrific food but slow service and high priced wine list
Restaurant we didn't like:
Cafe Paris - mediocre all around
My wife is not a big chile pepper fan so we didn't eat at the popular SW/NMex cuisine places like Pasquals, SantaCafe, Shed , etc.
Also enjoyed the Dragon Bar for late afternoon respite - really funky, and spanish music entertainment in El Dorado Lobby Bar.
Santa Fe and northern New Mexico surprised us with how much Spanish and native American culture is intermingled with "Anglo" culture - especially in the small towns. The landscape is surreal, mix of high mountains, desert, mesas and big blue sky.
A final note, be prepared to pay money in Native American pueblos to enter, take pictures, etc. The fees can really add up. Also there are prohibitions regarding photography of the interior of some churches and of pueblo residents without their permission.
Overall a fun and fascinating trip. Your questions are welcome.
- Stayed at La Tienda, a pleasant B&B five blocks west of the Plaza. Only complaint was early evening street noise (our room faced the street). Streets weren't busy but some folks there have loud cars! Book early, we had a tough time finding a B&B room under $200/nt for early August and we booked in April.
- We really enjoyed all the old adobe churches in Santa Fe and elsewhere
- Shopping in Santa Fe was unbelievable, must be more shop/gallery space per capita than anywhere else in U.S. Galleries seemed overpriced to us for the quality of art displayed. Canyon Road prices were astronomical. Some stores, especially jewelry stores, were advertising big sales (inventory liquidation!!!, 75% off!!!, etc) but on inspection these stores had grossly inflated list prices and then marked them down in their "sales" - very annoying to us - caveat emptor. Don't miss the native American market at the Palace of the Governors.
Visited O'Keefe Museum - interesting but suprisingly small museum.
Santa Fe is a walker's town - leave your car in place where it's parked while in town.
- Side trips
1) Taos - full day R/T from SF, more laid back than Santa Fe and of course smaller. Still charming. Don't miss Taos Pueblo - wonderful setting and site and fascinating native American market. We also liked Rancho de Taos - old adobe shop buildings surrounding adobe church, and bridge over Rio Grande gorge (we walked over bridge, not for those afraid of heights - fabulous view). Returned via "high road" to Santa Fe. Pretty drive but not well marked, we missed Chimayo which we wanted to see.
2) "Jemez Trail" - NM rt 4; and unexpected treat, beautiful all day loop drive. Don't miss Bandelier Nat. Mon. - ancient Anasazi cliff dwellings, other great sights along the way - White Rock overlook, Valles Grande caldera, Jemez Falls, Springs, Pueblo, Red Rocks and the Soda Dam.
The main road north of Santa Fe (US 285/84) is undergoing substantial construction so allow extra time going north, even to the Opera House. Speed is restricted and the road is heavily patrolled. In fact all NM roads seemed heavily patrolled.
Restaurants we liked:
Coyote Cafe (rooftop cantina - sit on the edge and see the sunset and street goings on)
O'Keefes - delightful outdoor patio
Il Piatto - wonderful Italian al fresco dining - pumpkin ravioli with sage butter awesome - service though slow but with a good bottle of wine and great weather who cared
Doc Martin's (Taos) - more al fresco dining; chile rellenos in blue corn tortila batter the size of bananas - terrific
Laughing Lizard Cafe - (Jemez Springs) tasty buffalo burritos
Tulips - elegant dining in a restored adobe house, terrific food but slow service and high priced wine list
Restaurant we didn't like:
Cafe Paris - mediocre all around
My wife is not a big chile pepper fan so we didn't eat at the popular SW/NMex cuisine places like Pasquals, SantaCafe, Shed , etc.
Also enjoyed the Dragon Bar for late afternoon respite - really funky, and spanish music entertainment in El Dorado Lobby Bar.
Santa Fe and northern New Mexico surprised us with how much Spanish and native American culture is intermingled with "Anglo" culture - especially in the small towns. The landscape is surreal, mix of high mountains, desert, mesas and big blue sky.
A final note, be prepared to pay money in Native American pueblos to enter, take pictures, etc. The fees can really add up. Also there are prohibitions regarding photography of the interior of some churches and of pueblo residents without their permission.
Overall a fun and fascinating trip. Your questions are welcome.
Aug 16th, 2004, 06:37 PM
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Dano, thanks for a timely report - I'm off to Santa Fe, Taos and Albuquerque in a couple of weeks.
I would be interested in your opinion as to just how scary the High Road to/from Taos is. I have noticed varying opinions and I'm still trying to determine if I want to give it a try. If it's extremely narrow, along the edge of a cliff where it's easy to drive off, then it is definitely not for me.
Also, is Chimayo not visible from the High Road? I thought the road went through there and several other towns but it sounds like you have to watch for a turn off.
I would be interested in your opinion as to just how scary the High Road to/from Taos is. I have noticed varying opinions and I'm still trying to determine if I want to give it a try. If it's extremely narrow, along the edge of a cliff where it's easy to drive off, then it is definitely not for me.
Also, is Chimayo not visible from the High Road? I thought the road went through there and several other towns but it sounds like you have to watch for a turn off.
Aug 16th, 2004, 07:56 PM
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Spring:
The high road drive is not bad but the I like mountain roads, the "best" or "worst" part is the western half, a few hairpins there but no real precipitous dropoffs - hardest part is keeping eye on the road due to the astounding views. Somehow we took a wrong turn before Chimayo, then probably drove past it without realizing it and since it was getting late in the day we decided just to keep on going.
Have fun!
Dano
The high road drive is not bad but the I like mountain roads, the "best" or "worst" part is the western half, a few hairpins there but no real precipitous dropoffs - hardest part is keeping eye on the road due to the astounding views. Somehow we took a wrong turn before Chimayo, then probably drove past it without realizing it and since it was getting late in the day we decided just to keep on going.
Have fun!
Dano
Jan 25th, 2005, 05:51 PM
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Anyone know which rooms to get/avoid at La Tienda or Duran House? I'm trying to tell from the drawing on their website if the Romero or Mascarell rooms in the Territorial House might have been where Dano was, so adobe addition to old store OK? An addition it seems, not an historical building. Looks like Rosa's and Maria's rooms in Duran House face streets?
