rkkwan's "short" AMTRAK Coast Starlight adventure
Jan 27th, 2010 | 08:15 PM
#1
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rkkwan's "short" AMTRAK Coast Starlight adventure
I want to (not need to) get to San Francisco from LA last Thursday. There was no cheap air-ticket for the northbound (coming back on Sat I could get relatively cheap air). And I didn't want to drive or ride Greyhound, so I decided to try AMTRAK.
From LA to San Francisco, there are two ways to do AMTRAK. One can ride a AMTRAK bus from LA Union Station to Bakersfield, then take the San Joaquin to Emeryville, and then connect to another bus to SF. It's $54 and takes about 9 hours. Or one can take the daily Coast Starlight from LA Union Station to Oakland, and then connect to a bus. It's $52 and takes about 12 hours.
To save $2, I chose the latter method. No, just kidding. I want to get the most train-travel experience, to see the coast, and I have plenty of time. That's the reason I take the Coast Starlight. Here's a short trip report of what happened.
9:45a
Arrive at LA Union Station by subway Red Line, went up to a Quik-trak machine in the main concourse to print my tickets (train and bus). Bought a muffin and coffee and headed to Track 10 where the Coast Starlight was already boarding. Track 10 is on the east end of the station, opposite the main concourse, so AMTRAK has a couple of electric carts to take those who don't want to walk.
[There was a line in the main hall for those taking the Pacific Surfliner to San Diego - apparently, to get seat assignments. For the Coast Starlight, that's not necessary - just go straight to the train.]
9:55a
Found the train on Track 10. It consists of (from North to South) 2 locomotives, baggage car, 3 sleeper cars, parlor car (for sleeper passengers only), dining car, lounge car, and 3 coach cars. The conductor at the first coach asked where I was going, and told me to go to the second car.
I asked the conductor at the 2nd coach for a seat on the left-hand (ocean) side, and he gave me Seat 5. The train is less than half-full in coach, so basically every single traveler gets 2 seats. Bathrooms (a couple fairly large) are on the lower level, along with an arcade room (with 1980's arcade machines) on my car. On the 1st and 3rd, there are lower-level seats in place of the arcade room. There's another difference which I'll find out later on.
While I have taken AMTRAK quite a few times in the Washington-NY-Boston corridor - I even have a AMTRAK Guest Reward account already - this was my first time to ride AMTRAK in the west, and first time on the bi-level Superliner equipment. The seats are much more spacious than on the East Coast trains. Pitch and width is similar to international business class seats on airplanes, though the recline is much more limited. However, there are still legrests and footrests (all manual), so it's still very very nice. Windows are aligned properly, so great view from each seat.
From LA to San Francisco, there are two ways to do AMTRAK. One can ride a AMTRAK bus from LA Union Station to Bakersfield, then take the San Joaquin to Emeryville, and then connect to another bus to SF. It's $54 and takes about 9 hours. Or one can take the daily Coast Starlight from LA Union Station to Oakland, and then connect to a bus. It's $52 and takes about 12 hours.
To save $2, I chose the latter method. No, just kidding. I want to get the most train-travel experience, to see the coast, and I have plenty of time. That's the reason I take the Coast Starlight. Here's a short trip report of what happened.
9:45a
Arrive at LA Union Station by subway Red Line, went up to a Quik-trak machine in the main concourse to print my tickets (train and bus). Bought a muffin and coffee and headed to Track 10 where the Coast Starlight was already boarding. Track 10 is on the east end of the station, opposite the main concourse, so AMTRAK has a couple of electric carts to take those who don't want to walk.
[There was a line in the main hall for those taking the Pacific Surfliner to San Diego - apparently, to get seat assignments. For the Coast Starlight, that's not necessary - just go straight to the train.]
9:55a
Found the train on Track 10. It consists of (from North to South) 2 locomotives, baggage car, 3 sleeper cars, parlor car (for sleeper passengers only), dining car, lounge car, and 3 coach cars. The conductor at the first coach asked where I was going, and told me to go to the second car.
I asked the conductor at the 2nd coach for a seat on the left-hand (ocean) side, and he gave me Seat 5. The train is less than half-full in coach, so basically every single traveler gets 2 seats. Bathrooms (a couple fairly large) are on the lower level, along with an arcade room (with 1980's arcade machines) on my car. On the 1st and 3rd, there are lower-level seats in place of the arcade room. There's another difference which I'll find out later on.
While I have taken AMTRAK quite a few times in the Washington-NY-Boston corridor - I even have a AMTRAK Guest Reward account already - this was my first time to ride AMTRAK in the west, and first time on the bi-level Superliner equipment. The seats are much more spacious than on the East Coast trains. Pitch and width is similar to international business class seats on airplanes, though the recline is much more limited. However, there are still legrests and footrests (all manual), so it's still very very nice. Windows are aligned properly, so great view from each seat.
Jan 27th, 2010 | 08:55 PM
#2
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10:15a
Train departs right on time, slowly heading north from LA Union Station. The early part of the trip was very slow as we had to stop several times to meet the southbound Metrolink commuter and AMTRAK Pacific Surfliner trains. The conductor came on frequently to update what's going on. He also mentioned that there could be some delays due to the heavy rain, as Union Pacific (which owns most of the tracks) would be doing some track inspection to make sure it was safe for us to pass through.
The conductor came quickly to take our tickets and put a slip under my seat number that says "OAK" for Oakland. From then on, one can move around the train and even move to other seats taking along that seat assignment slip. Quite a few people moved away from my car to either the 1st or 3rd, as it turned out those cars have 110v AC power.
I decided to stay in my seat as both my phone and my netbook were fully charged, and I had reading material as well. My car became even less crowded and very quiet. In fact, the train was very quiet - no noise-isolating/canceling headphones required.
Soon, the dining car attendant announced the lunch menu and then came through the train to take reservations for lunch. Seven seatings were available in 15-minute intervals between 11:30a to 1:00p. I asked for a 1:00p reservations. Those traveling in sleeper can also choose to dine at the parlor car at other times, and there's a snack bar in the lower level of the lounge car for everybody with sandwiches, chips, drinks, etc.
12:04p
Departed Oxnard (67 miles from LAUS), after brief stops at Van Nuys and Simi Valley. 9 minutes late at this time.
12:58p
Arrived at Santa Barbara, the first longer stop, where they let people go down for a smoke (or photos or whatever). I didn't get off as they just called me over to have lunch at the dining car. Departed Santa Barbara at 1:08p, 20 minutes late.
They seat 4 people together in a table in the dining car. One couldn't ask for his/her own table even though our train was very emtpy. For our 1:00p seating, there were 2 tables (8 total). I sat with a single lady going to a funeral, and a mother-and-son pair coming back all the way from NYC to San Luis Obispo - though in sleeper.
Choices include cheeseburger, a grilled chicken salad, and a pork stew over rice. I had the pork, which also comes with a side salad and drink. $9, tax included! Not bad. I left a $1.50 tip for $10.50. Because we were the last seating, they didn't hurry to kick us out, so we sat in the dining car and chat for a while.
The sections before and after Santa Barbara are some of the most beautiful along the route, and some people left their coach seats to sit in the lounge car with tall windows. No purchase necessary. Just grab any empty seat.
Our progress started to really slow down. 1st, not far from Santa Barbara, we stopped while waiting for Union Pacific to inspect the tracks. 2nd, we stopped again when UP had a computer crash and had to reboot the signal system. 3rd, our train lost power at one time, slowly rolling to a stop before they restarted the engines. Finally, at about 4:20p, we stopped just short of the San Luis Obispo station, apparently waiting for the southbound Coast Starlight to clear the station before we could pull in. We were about an hour late at that time.
Train departs right on time, slowly heading north from LA Union Station. The early part of the trip was very slow as we had to stop several times to meet the southbound Metrolink commuter and AMTRAK Pacific Surfliner trains. The conductor came on frequently to update what's going on. He also mentioned that there could be some delays due to the heavy rain, as Union Pacific (which owns most of the tracks) would be doing some track inspection to make sure it was safe for us to pass through.
The conductor came quickly to take our tickets and put a slip under my seat number that says "OAK" for Oakland. From then on, one can move around the train and even move to other seats taking along that seat assignment slip. Quite a few people moved away from my car to either the 1st or 3rd, as it turned out those cars have 110v AC power.
I decided to stay in my seat as both my phone and my netbook were fully charged, and I had reading material as well. My car became even less crowded and very quiet. In fact, the train was very quiet - no noise-isolating/canceling headphones required.
Soon, the dining car attendant announced the lunch menu and then came through the train to take reservations for lunch. Seven seatings were available in 15-minute intervals between 11:30a to 1:00p. I asked for a 1:00p reservations. Those traveling in sleeper can also choose to dine at the parlor car at other times, and there's a snack bar in the lower level of the lounge car for everybody with sandwiches, chips, drinks, etc.
12:04p
Departed Oxnard (67 miles from LAUS), after brief stops at Van Nuys and Simi Valley. 9 minutes late at this time.
12:58p
Arrived at Santa Barbara, the first longer stop, where they let people go down for a smoke (or photos or whatever). I didn't get off as they just called me over to have lunch at the dining car. Departed Santa Barbara at 1:08p, 20 minutes late.
They seat 4 people together in a table in the dining car. One couldn't ask for his/her own table even though our train was very emtpy. For our 1:00p seating, there were 2 tables (8 total). I sat with a single lady going to a funeral, and a mother-and-son pair coming back all the way from NYC to San Luis Obispo - though in sleeper.
Choices include cheeseburger, a grilled chicken salad, and a pork stew over rice. I had the pork, which also comes with a side salad and drink. $9, tax included! Not bad. I left a $1.50 tip for $10.50. Because we were the last seating, they didn't hurry to kick us out, so we sat in the dining car and chat for a while.
The sections before and after Santa Barbara are some of the most beautiful along the route, and some people left their coach seats to sit in the lounge car with tall windows. No purchase necessary. Just grab any empty seat.
Our progress started to really slow down. 1st, not far from Santa Barbara, we stopped while waiting for Union Pacific to inspect the tracks. 2nd, we stopped again when UP had a computer crash and had to reboot the signal system. 3rd, our train lost power at one time, slowly rolling to a stop before they restarted the engines. Finally, at about 4:20p, we stopped just short of the San Luis Obispo station, apparently waiting for the southbound Coast Starlight to clear the station before we could pull in. We were about an hour late at that time.
Jan 27th, 2010 | 09:50 PM
#3
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Before going on, I forgot that between Santa Barbara and SLO, there were two activities announced. First was a wine tasting. $5 for those in the sleeper, and $10 for coach. I don't drink, so I didn't go. Then they showed a Harry Potter movie at the theater in the parlor car for the sleeper passengers. But that was during the most beautiful part of the joruney.
Around 4:40p
We were about to leave San Luis Obispo at this time when the announcement came that the train whistle/horn was not functioning, and there would be a "short delay" to get it fix. A little while later, I saw a ladder going up the side of the front locomotive. Then they said we'd need to wait for a mechanic to come by. It starts to get dark by then.
At around 5:40p, they said they have to pull the whistle/horn relay from the 2nd locomotive and switch it to the leading unit. I was about to go to the lounge car to get some snacks (I've decided to wait until getting to SF to have dinner instead of having it on the train) when they disconnected power to the trains for about 15 minutes.
I wanted to post on my FB about my delay, so I started up my netbook. Very luckily, there's an unsecured wi-fi connection available! Probably from some business adjacent to the SLO train depot.
Meanwhile, dinner was continuously served to those who'd made reservations at the dining car (seatings from 5 to 7:30p)
Some of my fellow passengers going to San Francisco worried that the connecting bus wouldn't wait for us, but I already know we'll be okay. The conductor told them, even if we were 8 hours late, the bus would still be waiting.
6:54p
Finally, the whistle was fixed and we could get going again. We departed SLO 3:11 late, and then Paso Robles at 8:05p, 3:20 late. They showed "Julie and Julia" in the parlor car for the sleeper passengers. The train rolled at its top speed of 69MPH through the flat Salinas valley (I was checking my GPS), but we still departed Salinas 3:18 late, at 9:54p. They stopped making announcement after 10p so they wouldn't disturb those wanting to sleep.
But then things start improving. There were no more delays, and probably because at that time most commuter train traffic has ceased around San Jose, we picked up almost half an hour, and departed San Jose at 11:24p, 2:45 late.
12:20a
Finally, we pulled into Oakland Jack London Square 2:48 late. The bus was indeed waiting for the around 25 of us heading to San Francisco, and we left at 12:29a, 2:44 behind schedule.
Now, I was super lucky. This bus makes several stop in SF, and my stop - 4th & Market - was supposed to be 2nd to last, and would take 55 minutes. But after we crossed the Bay Bridge, the ramp to Embarcadero was closed due to construction, and the bus had to use the next exit. So, instead of being 2nd-to-last stop, 4th & Market became the first stop. I got off the bus at 12:48a, only 2:08 late. Total travel time: 14:33, about the same as flying time from Los Angeles to Hong Kong.
So, that was my adventure. The seat on the train was indeed very comfortable, the view very nice, and all the attendants/conductors very friendly. Even the dining car was not overpriced. If one's not in a hurry, and is fine to arrive whenever, it's a pretty nice way to travel.
Around 4:40p
We were about to leave San Luis Obispo at this time when the announcement came that the train whistle/horn was not functioning, and there would be a "short delay" to get it fix. A little while later, I saw a ladder going up the side of the front locomotive. Then they said we'd need to wait for a mechanic to come by. It starts to get dark by then.
At around 5:40p, they said they have to pull the whistle/horn relay from the 2nd locomotive and switch it to the leading unit. I was about to go to the lounge car to get some snacks (I've decided to wait until getting to SF to have dinner instead of having it on the train) when they disconnected power to the trains for about 15 minutes.
I wanted to post on my FB about my delay, so I started up my netbook. Very luckily, there's an unsecured wi-fi connection available! Probably from some business adjacent to the SLO train depot.
Meanwhile, dinner was continuously served to those who'd made reservations at the dining car (seatings from 5 to 7:30p)
Some of my fellow passengers going to San Francisco worried that the connecting bus wouldn't wait for us, but I already know we'll be okay. The conductor told them, even if we were 8 hours late, the bus would still be waiting.
6:54p
Finally, the whistle was fixed and we could get going again. We departed SLO 3:11 late, and then Paso Robles at 8:05p, 3:20 late. They showed "Julie and Julia" in the parlor car for the sleeper passengers. The train rolled at its top speed of 69MPH through the flat Salinas valley (I was checking my GPS), but we still departed Salinas 3:18 late, at 9:54p. They stopped making announcement after 10p so they wouldn't disturb those wanting to sleep.
But then things start improving. There were no more delays, and probably because at that time most commuter train traffic has ceased around San Jose, we picked up almost half an hour, and departed San Jose at 11:24p, 2:45 late.
12:20a
Finally, we pulled into Oakland Jack London Square 2:48 late. The bus was indeed waiting for the around 25 of us heading to San Francisco, and we left at 12:29a, 2:44 behind schedule.
Now, I was super lucky. This bus makes several stop in SF, and my stop - 4th & Market - was supposed to be 2nd to last, and would take 55 minutes. But after we crossed the Bay Bridge, the ramp to Embarcadero was closed due to construction, and the bus had to use the next exit. So, instead of being 2nd-to-last stop, 4th & Market became the first stop. I got off the bus at 12:48a, only 2:08 late. Total travel time: 14:33, about the same as flying time from Los Angeles to Hong Kong.
So, that was my adventure. The seat on the train was indeed very comfortable, the view very nice, and all the attendants/conductors very friendly. Even the dining car was not overpriced. If one's not in a hurry, and is fine to arrive whenever, it's a pretty nice way to travel.
Jan 27th, 2010 | 09:58 PM
#4
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Oh, just want to add that the rail distance from Los Angeles Union Station to Oakland Jack London Square is 464mi. If the train had been on-time, it'd have taken 11:17, for an average of 41MPH.
With the delay, my train took 14:05, for an average of 33MPH.
On my way back, my flight from SFO to LAX took 54 minutes.
With the delay, my train took 14:05, for an average of 33MPH.
On my way back, my flight from SFO to LAX took 54 minutes.
Jan 28th, 2010 | 02:47 AM
#6
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,912
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Great report! I love trains, too, and am impressed by the amenities on the West Coast. Harry Potter? Wine tasting?? Amtrak??? ;-) At times, it felt as though you were going nowhere fast but, still, sounds like an experience I would have enjoyed. Delays on trains don't bother me as they do on planes--at least on trains you are free to move about the cabin, etc., and the seats are far more comfortable.
So how was the scenery?
So how was the scenery?
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Jan 28th, 2010 | 06:21 AM
#8
Joined: Jul 2003
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I've done that trip, but it was years ago for me. I have travelled from the midwest to the west coast on bi-level trains several times. It's a pleasant (though s-l-o-w compared to flying) and I would do it again in a heartbeat if the opportunity should arise. Thanks for your report.
Jan 28th, 2010 | 07:20 AM
#11
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Thanks guys for reading.
Let me make one more comment. While traveling on coach is basic transport, they do try to please those who travel in sleeper - with all the activities. In fact, it is like a resort train "lite". Now, we all know these trains lose tonnes of money, so the question is why are we taxpayers subsidizing those "resort" travelers? Or put it another way, for those with the time, it's foolish NOT to go on the AMTRAK sleeper trains. You've already paid for them in taxes.
As for how much you see the coast on my trip, it's not that long. From Ventura to Santa Barbara is parallel US101, which I have traveled a few times myself in the car and I've seen the Coast Starlight on this route. North of Santa Barbara, the first 25 miles is still along US101 on the coast. But then US101 turns inland towards Solvang, while the Coast Starlight remains on the coast for another 50 miles. That part can only been seen from the train. So, that's about 100 miles total on the coast.
The early part of the trip through Simi Valley was also beautiful, once we left the San Fernando Valley. The latter part is beautiful too (I've traveled US101 by car), but because of the delay, it was all dark for me north of SLO.
DebitNM - I have thousands of pictures to be processed - with trips to Colorado, Big Island, Yosemite and China - before this trip!
Let me make one more comment. While traveling on coach is basic transport, they do try to please those who travel in sleeper - with all the activities. In fact, it is like a resort train "lite". Now, we all know these trains lose tonnes of money, so the question is why are we taxpayers subsidizing those "resort" travelers? Or put it another way, for those with the time, it's foolish NOT to go on the AMTRAK sleeper trains. You've already paid for them in taxes.
As for how much you see the coast on my trip, it's not that long. From Ventura to Santa Barbara is parallel US101, which I have traveled a few times myself in the car and I've seen the Coast Starlight on this route. North of Santa Barbara, the first 25 miles is still along US101 on the coast. But then US101 turns inland towards Solvang, while the Coast Starlight remains on the coast for another 50 miles. That part can only been seen from the train. So, that's about 100 miles total on the coast.
The early part of the trip through Simi Valley was also beautiful, once we left the San Fernando Valley. The latter part is beautiful too (I've traveled US101 by car), but because of the delay, it was all dark for me north of SLO.
DebitNM - I have thousands of pictures to be processed - with trips to Colorado, Big Island, Yosemite and China - before this trip!
Jan 28th, 2010 | 08:27 AM
#12
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,659
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I've enjoyed the Canadian, the Empire Builder and the California Zephyr; taking the Coast Starlight is still on my to-do-one-day list. Thanks for sharing your experience rkkwan. Those delays actually don't look so bad given what they can be... especially if the scenery was lovely...
Best wishes, Daniel
Best wishes, Daniel
Jan 28th, 2010 | 09:12 AM
#16
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SeaUrchin - I was thinking about room service at the Grand Hyatt, but turned out it's not 24-hours. So I went to the Lori's Diner - the one on Mason - for some unnamed greasy food that my doctors wouldn't approve of.
Jan 28th, 2010 | 10:09 AM
#18
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Jan 28th, 2010 | 12:05 PM
#19
Joined: Feb 2009
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RK, I've done both: San Joaquin and Starlight, and the coast ride is very much better. San Joaquin is mostly boring, don't take it unless you have to.
So your train was late, that was expected
"he gave me Seat 5" - what??? are the seats assigned now? Whenever we took coach, we just took any available seat!
So your train was late, that was expected
"he gave me Seat 5" - what??? are the seats assigned now? Whenever we took coach, we just took any available seat!
