Presidents Houses in Virginia
#1
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Joined: Feb 2008
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Presidents Houses in Virginia
In a fit of enthusiasm DH and I decided to drive from Annapolis (our home) early on a Sunday morning in February to see Monticello, Montpelier, and Ash Lawn, have a nice dinner and stay in a nice hotel, drive to Richmond Monday morning, see the Richmond Museum of Art and then return to Annapolis.
I started the research after the decision, and then started to worry. Figuring we'd be willing to set out at the crack of dawn, will doing everything in about 38 hours work? And in what driving order would the three houses be most efficient? And is there a really neat place to sleep and eat Sunday night traveling from Charlottesville toward Richmond and not away?
We'd be willing to adjust, but it would be nice if our plan could work. Thanks for any help. Forum responders are always so generous.
I started the research after the decision, and then started to worry. Figuring we'd be willing to set out at the crack of dawn, will doing everything in about 38 hours work? And in what driving order would the three houses be most efficient? And is there a really neat place to sleep and eat Sunday night traveling from Charlottesville toward Richmond and not away?
We'd be willing to adjust, but it would be nice if our plan could work. Thanks for any help. Forum responders are always so generous.
#2
Joined: Dec 2005
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Yes, I think you can do it. I personally don't know of a place to stay between Charlottesville and Richmond, though I am sure there are somee. I would stay overnight in C'ville (you will need a rest!) and go on to Richmond next morning so you will avoid rush hour.
Montpelier is low key but very interesting because they are consciously removing most of the later work done to the house after it became a horse farm for wealthy owners, so you see a number of different historic layers. It is a pretty drive to Monticello, which is a somewhat structured experience. Even off season, you will be given a tour time and ride a minibus to the house. The great thing at Monticello is that each docent gets to write her or his own tour, so every time you go, you learn different things. This is a huge advantage to somebody (me) who takes a lot of visitors there. I have not been to Ash Lawn but will go this spring.
We are huge fans of the VMFA and maintain a membership even though it is free and we live elsewhere for most of the year. The new American wing is spectacular, the equal except in size of the new American wing at the MFA in Boston. The collection is wonderfully hung with artifacts from the same period, and as you round a corner you are pulled in to the next work in a most engaging way. They have had terrific displays of African art -- art, not ethnography -- and there is both a casual cafe on the ground floor and a superior fine dining restaurant upstairs, great for a lunch treat.
The VMFA has a lot of legacy art that I am not interested in -- Paul Mellon's English sporting paintings and Faberge eggs -- but you really should find and see in the European Renaissance/Baroque area a killer painting by Artemisia Gentilleschi, a very rare Italian woman painter who became famous through a novel, I think after they had bought the painting. There are a couple of good Medici busts right near it.
If you have a hard time tearing yourself away from the VMFA (and the Museum of the Confederacy, two doors down), you could have an early dinner at Buzz and Ned's Barbecue on the same street out toward the interstate and hit Washington on I-95 or suburban MD on 301 after rush hour.
Montpelier is low key but very interesting because they are consciously removing most of the later work done to the house after it became a horse farm for wealthy owners, so you see a number of different historic layers. It is a pretty drive to Monticello, which is a somewhat structured experience. Even off season, you will be given a tour time and ride a minibus to the house. The great thing at Monticello is that each docent gets to write her or his own tour, so every time you go, you learn different things. This is a huge advantage to somebody (me) who takes a lot of visitors there. I have not been to Ash Lawn but will go this spring.
We are huge fans of the VMFA and maintain a membership even though it is free and we live elsewhere for most of the year. The new American wing is spectacular, the equal except in size of the new American wing at the MFA in Boston. The collection is wonderfully hung with artifacts from the same period, and as you round a corner you are pulled in to the next work in a most engaging way. They have had terrific displays of African art -- art, not ethnography -- and there is both a casual cafe on the ground floor and a superior fine dining restaurant upstairs, great for a lunch treat.
The VMFA has a lot of legacy art that I am not interested in -- Paul Mellon's English sporting paintings and Faberge eggs -- but you really should find and see in the European Renaissance/Baroque area a killer painting by Artemisia Gentilleschi, a very rare Italian woman painter who became famous through a novel, I think after they had bought the painting. There are a couple of good Medici busts right near it.
If you have a hard time tearing yourself away from the VMFA (and the Museum of the Confederacy, two doors down), you could have an early dinner at Buzz and Ned's Barbecue on the same street out toward the interstate and hit Washington on I-95 or suburban MD on 301 after rush hour.
#3
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2008
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Thank you. you have been encouraging!
Would you suggest visiting the museums in the order you mention -- Montpelier, Monticello, Ash Lawn? Thanks for the suggestion of Buzz and Ned's. Any suggestions for hotels/restaurants in Charlottesville. Appreciate your expertise.
Would you suggest visiting the museums in the order you mention -- Montpelier, Monticello, Ash Lawn? Thanks for the suggestion of Buzz and Ned's. Any suggestions for hotels/restaurants in Charlottesville. Appreciate your expertise.
#4

Joined: Apr 2003
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It sounds like a fun trip! Look at Keswick Hall outside of Charlottesville.
http://www.keswick.com/web/okes/keswick_hall.jsp
Fossetts, the restaurant at the hall is very well-regarded but DH and I like the casual atmosphere at Palmers in the golf club.
We love Duners in Ivy but that may be on the wrong side of Charlottesville for you.
http://www.dunersrestaurant.com/
http://www.keswick.com/web/okes/keswick_hall.jsp
Fossetts, the restaurant at the hall is very well-regarded but DH and I like the casual atmosphere at Palmers in the golf club.
We love Duners in Ivy but that may be on the wrong side of Charlottesville for you.
http://www.dunersrestaurant.com/
#5
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,169
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I think my order, given where you are coming from, works pretty well, though you want to check opening times. I think the reason I haven't gotten to Ash Lawn is that I am usually pretty whipped by the time we have gotten our visitors to Monticello from Richmond, then to lunch in town, then a walk around the Lawn, that I am ready to head back to Richmond.
There are often school groups at Monticello very early and gone by noon, so there is no premium for rushing there.
Keswick is serious bucks but apparently lovely. My son took his wife there for an anniversary. I just drive back to Richmond and crash!
There are often school groups at Monticello very early and gone by noon, so there is no premium for rushing there.
Keswick is serious bucks but apparently lovely. My son took his wife there for an anniversary. I just drive back to Richmond and crash!
#6

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,377
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As you've described it, I think it's a stretch to do all three places in one day. You've got shortened daylight hours in February (and maybe inclement weather) as well as the timing issues with touring the house at Monticello. I'd be over saturated with our forefathers and their homes before I got half way through the third place. I'd do Montpelier first (closest off of I95 from Annapolis) and then Monticello. However you arrange it, allow the most and freshest time for Monticello over the other two.
Keswick Hall is gorgeous. Bring your extra bucket of cash. I agree with Birdie and love Duners -- great food and wine and a very relaxed atmosphere. If you do decide to stay in the C'ville area (and I would) I'd throw the Boarshead Inn into the mix. It's not nearly the same level as Keswick but it's very pleasant, has spa facilities and is a relative stone's throw to Duners. You can have a pretty leisurely trip to Richmond post rush hour on Monday morning. I also agree with glowing comments about the VMFA. The Secrets of the Tomb exhibit is a hoot. And although I not particularly an Elvis fan I loved the Elvis at 21 photography exhibit when I saw it at the Portrait Gallery in DC last year.
Sounds like a nice adventure -- enjoy!
Keswick Hall is gorgeous. Bring your extra bucket of cash. I agree with Birdie and love Duners -- great food and wine and a very relaxed atmosphere. If you do decide to stay in the C'ville area (and I would) I'd throw the Boarshead Inn into the mix. It's not nearly the same level as Keswick but it's very pleasant, has spa facilities and is a relative stone's throw to Duners. You can have a pretty leisurely trip to Richmond post rush hour on Monday morning. I also agree with glowing comments about the VMFA. The Secrets of the Tomb exhibit is a hoot. And although I not particularly an Elvis fan I loved the Elvis at 21 photography exhibit when I saw it at the Portrait Gallery in DC last year.
Sounds like a nice adventure -- enjoy!
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#8
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Joined: Feb 2008
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I am grateful for the responses which gave me great suggestions and web sites to look at. Since then, I have stepped off a curb on a rainy day and broken a bone in my foot. Ugh! I am in a boot and hoping that if I'm good and follow instructions, it will be gone in six weeks and my foot will be good as new. Right now there's the nagging ache and we'll take each day as it comes. We're certainly looking forward to the trip even if it's postponed until the Spring. Thank you for taking the time to respond.
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