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Patrick's18 days in NYC

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Old May 6th, 2004, 01:35 PM
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Patrick's18 days in NYC

So here I sit at JFK with a couple hours to spare before our flight to London. Who'd have guessed the bus from Port Authority would get here in rush hour in less than an hour, and we'd get checked through in about 4 minutes? And who'd have guessed almost a year ago when I booked that we'd be over the Atlantic when the final FRIENDS episode would be airing?

So here is an attempt at a rundown for our 18 day stay in the CITY.

Lodging: lucky to have friends in Naples with their apartment empty in New York -- on 45th between 8th and 9th, right across from WONDERFUL TOWN at the Hirschfield. Not a gorgeous apartment, but hey, who's complaining?

Transportation: We are walkers. Would you believe in all that time we only used a taxi once (from Laguardia), and subways three times on single tickets, plus twice did one day metro passes. Otherwise we walked.

The rundown:
Day l: Arrival in the afternoon after flying from Ft. Lauderdale (first class as this was part of our free FF business class tickets to London with a return in July from Paris).
Time to unpack and then walk up to Lincoln Center for pre-theatre dinner at Fiorello's (outside -- it was a gorgeous day), then the final performance of KING LEAR. My concerns about the critics' negativity were unfounded. It was not a brilliant or creative production, but a simple and classic one with a fantastic performance by Christopher Plummer. I don't know why others said they couldn't hear all the actors. We were sort of to the side in the third row and heard and understood every word. Really enjoyed the production. Walked back and to bed!

Day 2: A theatre friend from Naples was in town, but spent the night at a sister's in New Jersey. We were to meet up in the city for the day, but due to the train accident at Penn Station, we spent half the day sitting by the phone getting messages on his progress to get into the city. Sushi/bento box lunches at Kodama, downstairs and next door to our apartment. He arrived and we spend most of the afternoon walking Central Park. He had a theatre ticket, we didn't, but all had inexpensive but good dinner at Julian's on Ninth. Then we went to see the movie Ladykiller's, and met up for drinks after he saw his show.

Day 3: Lunch at Ollie's Noodle Shop. Later, watched Lee eat Cold Stone Ice Cream from the shop on 42nd (after standing in line about 20 minutes). Saw JUMPERS tonight, fun and interesting show, but too bizarre for most of the audience. Dinner after at Joe Allen's. On one side of us was a group of six including Al Pacino and Sean Penn. On the other side was Richard Dreyfus and Rene Auberjunoise (sp?). And at yet another table was the other star of Sly Fox -- duh, forget his name.

Day 4: Really turned cold today so we headed to the Metropolitan Museum for the day, spending most of our time in the Green and Roman areas, and in the musical intrument section. Lunch there at the Petrie Court which was surprisingly good. Later in the afternoon headed to Payard on Lexington for pastries and cappucino. (actually for those of you who know I am now diabetic, no I passed on the pastry). Shopping for cheeses to stock the refrig (along with juice and milk) at the Amish Market. Then the show I AM MY OWN WIFE, which didn't seem like much of a story or play, but a great solo performance. Dinner afterwards at Virgil's.

Day 5: Started the day with the extra lemon poundcake we bought at Payard. Nice day so took off walking, got to Houston street and saw that the Italian film I'M NOT SCARED was playing and time to start so did it -- beautiful and touching film. Lunch after at Mercer Kitchen, then walked it off by heading all the way back to our apartment. Showered in time to head over to the Monkey Bar for drinks, followed by THE STENDAHL SYNDROME -- again, interesting but not great. Dinner afterwards at Tao, which proved to be one of our most disappointing meals. We kept saying it was like a glorified PF Changs, only the food wasn't nearly as good here.

Day6: Headed to Maison for a regular breakfast, but has horrified to find they no longer have the wonderful duck confit hash I had before with poached eggs. Oh well, other good options. Walked most of the day, upper east side, across thepark, then worked our way down Columbus Ave. We ended up at Lincoln Center and although I had called and found the Met backstage tours were all booked for our entire stay, we tryed to go "standby" and got on a tour. Very interesting and very complete -- right down to talking with a woman making wigs, and our group of 14 all squeezing into a diva's dressing room. Dinner at Taboon on 10th, a rather new middle eastern place named for the wood oven in which they cook wonderful food. We loved this place! Then saw MY BIG GAY ITALIAN WEDDING, which made Tony and Tina's Wedding look like high art, but at least it was very, very funny.

TO BE CONTINUED.

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Old May 6th, 2004, 02:00 PM
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Day 7: A brief walk this morning over to the Hudson along with everyone else to see the Queen Mary and the QE2 side by side. A great lunch at Divane on 8th, a newish modern Turkish place. Matinee of CAROLINE OR CHANGE. Loved the show, but I suspect it will not be a big hit. Evening performance of WONDERFUL TOWN, and am still marveling at the incredible performance by Donna Murphy. Dinner afterwards right down the street at Jezebel. Great fried chicken, collard greens, etc. A really neat place, and we couldn't believe we had never been there, considering we stayed less that a block from there last fall for a whole month.

Day 8: Sunday NY Times and lattes at The Coffee Pot on Ninth, then walked up to the northwest corner of Central Park. Arts and Crafts fair by museum of Natural History, and brunch at Gabriela's (Mexican). That evening saw the new Pop opera BARE, which seemed to have a far better cast and production than the show deserves. Not much of a show -- so trite and seemingly dated, but a wonderful cast. Blue cheese hamburgers afterwards at JR's.

Day 9: Spent most of the morning at Easy Internet on 42nd, getting caught up on email and some business things. Mercury Bar and Grill for lunch -- 1 1/4 pound lobster, baked potato, and corn on the cob for $13.95, with a draft beer -- this was a sensational lunch! Went to see the movie, Man on Fire in the afternoon. Dinner tonight at Brasserie 8 1/2, with a $50 off of $100 food coupon. Great dinner in every way -- fantastic cheese tray.
Pouring rain going and coming home, but we walked anyway!

Day10: As if I didn't get enough cheese last night, we had booked a lunch reservation at Artisinal today. Wow! Loved this place, the best side of macaroni and cheese in the world! That night saw MATCH, which I thoroughly loved. Frank Langella was amazing. Dinner afterwards at Angus McIndoe.

Day 11: Lee wasn't feeling too well today and didn't want to do much, but after lunch at St. Andrews, I went to TKTS and picked up a half price single for A RAISIN IN THE SUN. This was really a fantastic production with the exception of PDIDDYPUGGSEANCOMBS or whatever his name is this week. He was OK, but surrounded by true greatness in what really is one of the finest American plays written (in my humble opinion). That evening saw WICKED. Lee became very ill near the end of ACT I, thinking it was something he ate, and he sat in the lobby for Act II, but I loved the show -- particularly Kristin Chenowith. Funny incident. One of the two beds failed to come on stage, and the "bad witch" says to Glinda, "where's your bed", to which she replied, "I have no idea". They then proceeded to adlib and walked to the wings to search for the bed. Finally, Glinda said, "I'll just share yours". Then the bed finally started very slowly rolling on. Glinda hopped on the bed and tried to "swim" it into position. Both girls got totally cracked up, and the audience was roaring and applauding by the time the whole mess got cleared up. Lee headed home after the show, and I had solo dinner of great spaghetti puttanesca at the little Trattoria Daniela on 8th.

Day 12: Took the train to Millburn, New Jerset today for the Papermill Playhouse production of BABY, which I loved. Many of the older matinee ladies around me mentioned they didn't think it was much of a show. So simple and small, but outstanding cast and production, and a show I've always liked, but never seen performed before.
Had lunch at a little neighborhood restaurant before the show. Headed back to the city by train. (This is really an easy 40 minute train trip, and only costs $8.50 each roundtrip.) I plan to do this trip again, depending on what's playing there. Had no plans for the evening but got back in plenty of time, so I got a single TCKTS seat for PRYMATE, a very interesting show that it is both spoken and signed (I couldn't begin to explain the show here!) Lee met me after the show, and we had dinner at The Delta Grill -- good cajun food on 9th.

Still more to come:
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Old May 6th, 2004, 02:12 PM
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I'm loving this, keep posting Patrick!!
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Old May 6th, 2004, 02:33 PM
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Day13: Today we did day Metro passes. Did a little work today (drat!) at the D&D building on Third. Then we headed down to the meatpacking district planning lunch at Pastis. When we got a block away, we noticed Spice Market (where I had called and called about dinner reservations with no luck). We decided to see about lunch there, and no problem, they could seat us. (We did get there just a little after noon, so it was good timing). WOW! This was probably the best food of our entire stay. Every bite of the four dishes we tried was fantastic. Love this place!! Headed over to Christopher Street to get tickets for a show, then took the subway to Bowling Green, walked along the waterfront and ended up seeing Tribute Gallery, which was OK, but hardly worth the $7 admission. Seemed more like just a gallery that should be free, frankly. Back to our apartment, then later subway to the Tribeca Grand for drinks (would you believe the bartender argued with me that the sweet robroy he brought me when I asked for a "dry robroy" was right. He insisted that all robroys are made with sweet vermouth, and if I wanted dry vermouth, I should have ordered a "Scotch martini". Where did he get his training?
Saw MRS. FARNSWORTH at the Flea Theatre. What a great evening of theatre. Sigorny Weaver and John Lithgow were simply outstanding. She was amazingly funny!! Dinner afterwards at The Harrison about 10 blocks away. Who should walk in for dinner at the next table but John Lithgow. I waved my program at him and thanked him for a great evening. This may have been my favorite day of the stay -- it was all so wonderful.

Day 14: Saturday brunch at Julian's. How can these places offer a great brunch menu at $8.95 and include a super bloody mary for free? My journal is blank for the afternoon -- I guess we just did a lot of walking. Drinks at the Paramount bar, then SLY FOX that night. Very funny show, but somehow, didn't seem quite so well done as I had expected. Dinner afterwards at Marseille, which was excellent as always.

Day 15: (Sunday) Since we hadn't made it to Pastis the other day, we walked all the way there today for Sunday brunch, arriving about 12:30 to be told it was about an hour wait -- what a zoo! Instead we headed a couple blocks away to Barbuto, Johnathan Waxman's new place -- a sort of cement floor, garage like space with a great wood oven. I think I had the best roasted chicken ever! Lee equally happy with his wood roasted sea scallops with fave beans. Loved the place, and it couldn't be any less pretentious! Matinee of ENGAGED, a period farce by W.S. Gilber (of Gilbert and Sullivan), not unlike The Importance of Being Earnest. This is my type of show, and I loved it. Afterwards walked through Soho and Tribeca, gallery hopping, and finally ended up in Little Italy where we had dinner in the garden of DaNico. Great food! Walked all the way back to our apartment! (This was one of those days when we finished we could hardly believe we had walked the whole thing).

Day 16: Pouring rain today. Got metro passes -- no major walking today! Planned to go to Miss Maude's Spoonbread Too in Harlem for lunch, but after sitting on the subway for almost an hour -- major delays -- and only getting to 110th Street where we sat on the stopped train for another 15 minutes, we got off and decided we could do the partner restaurant Miss Mamie's on 110th instead -- since we were practically there. Good lunch! Then walked in the rain to the Museo de Barrio, oops, closed on Monday, why didn't I think of that? Took a subway back to the apartment. Then in the evening headed down to Houston to see the most bizarre movie ever made THE SADDEST MUSIC EVER WRITTEN. From there, pouring rain to the subway stop, then to Union Square and dinner at Steak Frites. Despite friends often raving about this place, we found it good, but couldn't figure out what all the hoopla is. Average sort of steak, and rather mediocre frites, but the atmosphere is great and authentic.

Day 17: Walking today. To the East River and along the promenade there. Then ended up at PJ Clark's for lunch. Walked home. Drinks at Sardi's before seeing GYPSY. Oh my, I expected Bernadette Peters to be good, but she is really sensational. Her "Rose's Turn" really gave me goosebumps. Dinner afterwards at Virgil's, the only place we ate twice this trip. Sometimes, that downhome barbeque just can't be beat.

Day 18: Actually went shopping today. I wanted a long sleeve v-neck for London, where I'm now expecting more cold and rainly weather -- and I've mainly packed for warm Italy. Why was this such a difficult search? Everything short sleeves or heavy sweater. Anyway, good luck finally at Brooks Brothers, why didn't I think of them first? Lunch of Indian buffet at UTSAV, which is a must-do every trip. Really excellent and so reasonable $13.95. Also, it's a great place for novices at Indian because every dish has a full written description of the ingredients and indication of spiciness level as well as origin of the dish. Tonight was CANDIDE in concert with Kristin Chenowith, Patti Lupone, and a wonderfully talented cast, chorus, and Julliard workshops players with the New York Philharmonic. This may have been the theatrical highlight of our stay. It was simply great. CANDIDE never seems to work as a play, but this very funny concert version was perfect -- even making fun of its own weaknesses.
Dinner afterwards at Picholine -- our biggest splurge of the stay. Fantastic food and service, and cheeses to make me weep!! We drank a great Brunello by the glass (at $20 a glass, it should be great, and it was!) after my dry robroy which was the best one of my whole stay. A great ending to the trip. It had poured rain during the performance, but fortunately was done, and when we finished dinner about midnight, walked back through the crisp air on the wet pavement.

Today (Thursday, May6): Exciting day of cleaning the apartment, and heading to the laundramat to do the sheets, towels, and all our clothes for our next stop in London. Mexican lunch at Rosa's Place, walk to Rockefeller Center for the best shoeshine in the city at Eddie's. Decided to roll our luggage the short three blocks to Port Authority and take the JFK bus for $13 each, which actually took slightly under an hour, even with a stop at Grand Central. The lowest price I could get quoted from the car services was $42 (after 3 PM), so we felt the savings of $16 was worth it. Besides, no fear of the car not showing up, which seems to be a frequent problem.

So here we sit waiting for our flight to London. For my next report, you'll have to move to the Europe board.



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Old May 6th, 2004, 04:06 PM
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Loved your report Patrick. Great resources for those planning NYC trips. Bon Voyage.
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Old May 6th, 2004, 04:08 PM
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Absolutely superb report. Many thanks....
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Old May 6th, 2004, 04:16 PM
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Egads, Patrick, you saw more in 16 days than this New Yorker sees in a year. Glad you again enjoyed and took full advantage of our fair city.
We, too, saw Candide last night, and my wife and I agree that it was an exciting, electrifying experience.
We also agree with your comments about Bernadette Peters and Gypsy, as well as your rave review of Brasserie 8 1/2.
(On the other end of the spectrum, you comments about Prymate was about the best comment I've heard of read. The critics roasted it, one calling the show the worst thing he's seen in 29 years of reviewing!)
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Old May 6th, 2004, 04:26 PM
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I'm loving reading this Patrick. It's better than Friend's, which Jeff is watching in the background. I'll print this out and let him read it during the 2-million-dollar commercials! LOL
My best to you both. Glad you are having so much fun. Tell Lee hello for us...
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Old May 6th, 2004, 04:28 PM
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I'm so happy to read that you liked Match; we see it on the 28th. Thanks for a great posting.
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Old May 6th, 2004, 04:46 PM
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Lovely. Can I please go with you next time ? Although I doubt I would have the energy.
Poor Lee, glad it didn't last long.
Enjoy the next phase of your trips, I hope we get to hear from you, you are missed!
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Old May 7th, 2004, 05:51 AM
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Wow, what a good job at keeping busy. I'm exhausted just reading about it. How long will you be in London for?
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Old May 7th, 2004, 06:22 AM
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Totally impressed! Patrick, you really live. (must be all that walking!)
Have a fabulous rest of the trip. Looking forward to every word.
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Old May 7th, 2004, 06:26 AM
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I hope Patrick doesn't mind my reply on his behalf, but according to his post back in December, he'll be in London for 2 weeks. If you look in the Europe forum and do a search under "what are your travel plans for 2004?" you can read his entire FIVE MONTH itinerary. It's certainly one to be envied. I hate to wish the years away, but early retirement seems alright with me.
 
Old May 7th, 2004, 06:37 AM
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Great, great, great report Patrick. I was sitting on pins & needles worrying about Lee. Hope he's fine now.
Thanks for reminding me about Kodama. Next time you're in town, try a shoe shine at Jim's shoe repair on 58th betw Mad & Park. Curious to know how it stacks up to your guy. How was PJ Clark's? Did you see/eat in the new upstairs dining room?
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Old May 7th, 2004, 06:42 AM
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Wow, Patrick, there's enough information in here for me to plan my next five weekends in NYC. Although by the time I get that many in, the plays will have closed and the restaurants gone downhill.

I hope you will post equal detail about shows and restaurants in London, where I will be spending four nights in July.
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Old May 27th, 2004, 07:22 AM
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Wow Patrick!

I hope you are having a great time in London!
 
Old May 27th, 2004, 07:32 AM
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I missed this the first time around. Fabulous report, Patrick! I'll look forward to your London trip report.
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Old Jun 9th, 2004, 09:42 PM
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Patrick -

WOW! What a post! What a trip! Will you marry me?! Or at least let me travel with you!?
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Old Jun 15th, 2004, 11:05 AM
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Hey Patrick, thanks for reminding me how lucky I am to live in NYC -- you hit almost all my favortie places -- but next time you MUST try Hell's Kitchen on 9th Avenue and 46th
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