One Traveler's Opinion: Tea at the Ritz
Dec 27th, 1999, 08:42 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
One Traveler's Opinion: Tea at the Ritz
There is probably no more civilized anachronism on the planet than afternoon tea, no better place in this country to partake of it than the Ritz Carlton in Boston, and no finer day on which to do so than Christmas Eve. Herewith, a report.
First, let me say that formal tea is an acquired taste. To the casual observer, it can be seen as just a dull way to stiffly pass an hour (and worse yet, an hour while the stock market is open). But, if you’re in the right spirit, high tea is a respite from the real world; an alternate reality in which time moves at a more gracious pace.
Tea at the Ritz-Carlton in Boston is conducted in a small alcove across from the hotel’s Dining Room. There, amid a set of Gilded Age portraits are tables seating perhaps 30. The tables – each graced with a fresh white rose - are already set with Wedgwood cups, the chairs are pleasantly overstuffed, and the space between tables ample for private conversation. A harpist, resplendent in long gown, is already playing “Greensleeves.” Promptly at 3 p.m., a formally attired waiter begins seating parties. Names are checked off of a list; a reservation-less couple hoping for a table are gently turned away.
The Ritz-Carlton serves five levels of tea. For $2.50, you can have tea only and, in theory, occupy a table for an indefinite period with endless cups of one of the fifteen different teas described in the menu. At the other end of the afternoon’s possibilities is Tea Royale for $27.50. Tea Royale starts with a glass of Champagne, moves on to finger sandwiches, scones, tea cakes, petit fours and, of course, tea. In between are tea with sandwiches, tea with cakes, etc.
It being Christmas Eve, we opted for Tea Royale. The Champagne came first, was well chilled, and we were allowed to finish our glasses at our leisure before anything else was brought to the table. Next came the came the caddy with tiers of finger sandwiches (cucumber and salmon), scones, tea cakes (lemon poppy seed and chocolate orange), and petit fours (a chocolate-dipped strawberry and numerous assorted tiny pastries). The condiments, including clotted cream and various preserves, were put in place. Finally came the tea -- in Wedgwood pots to match the cups – sterling silver tea strainer and caddy. The service throughout was splendid: prompt, friendly, and never, never rushed.
There is an extra special pleasure of going to tea at Christmas time. There are little girls in velvet dresses and little boys in unfamiliar coats and ties, and all are on their best behavior. The guests are mostly families out for a special occasion (rather than shopping-bag-laden Ladies Who Lunch). Familiar Christmas carols sound less relentless when played on a harp. The Ritz adds a well-decorated tree with artfully wrapped boxes underneath it.
An hour and fifteen minutes after we were seated, we said farewell to tea at the Ritz and went out into the fading afternoon to window shop Newberry Street and walk the Public Garden. It was just a 75-minute respite, but a welcome change from the everyday, and one I can highly recommend. If business or pleasure takes you to Boston, take time for tea.
Notes: The Ritz serves tea seven days a week; weekday reservations generally require just a few days; weekends may need to be booked two weeks in advance. I made Christmas Eve reservations the Monday after Thanksgiving and had the choice of 3 p.m. or 4:30 p.m. A credit card was required to hold the table.
First, let me say that formal tea is an acquired taste. To the casual observer, it can be seen as just a dull way to stiffly pass an hour (and worse yet, an hour while the stock market is open). But, if you’re in the right spirit, high tea is a respite from the real world; an alternate reality in which time moves at a more gracious pace.
Tea at the Ritz-Carlton in Boston is conducted in a small alcove across from the hotel’s Dining Room. There, amid a set of Gilded Age portraits are tables seating perhaps 30. The tables – each graced with a fresh white rose - are already set with Wedgwood cups, the chairs are pleasantly overstuffed, and the space between tables ample for private conversation. A harpist, resplendent in long gown, is already playing “Greensleeves.” Promptly at 3 p.m., a formally attired waiter begins seating parties. Names are checked off of a list; a reservation-less couple hoping for a table are gently turned away.
The Ritz-Carlton serves five levels of tea. For $2.50, you can have tea only and, in theory, occupy a table for an indefinite period with endless cups of one of the fifteen different teas described in the menu. At the other end of the afternoon’s possibilities is Tea Royale for $27.50. Tea Royale starts with a glass of Champagne, moves on to finger sandwiches, scones, tea cakes, petit fours and, of course, tea. In between are tea with sandwiches, tea with cakes, etc.
It being Christmas Eve, we opted for Tea Royale. The Champagne came first, was well chilled, and we were allowed to finish our glasses at our leisure before anything else was brought to the table. Next came the came the caddy with tiers of finger sandwiches (cucumber and salmon), scones, tea cakes (lemon poppy seed and chocolate orange), and petit fours (a chocolate-dipped strawberry and numerous assorted tiny pastries). The condiments, including clotted cream and various preserves, were put in place. Finally came the tea -- in Wedgwood pots to match the cups – sterling silver tea strainer and caddy. The service throughout was splendid: prompt, friendly, and never, never rushed.
There is an extra special pleasure of going to tea at Christmas time. There are little girls in velvet dresses and little boys in unfamiliar coats and ties, and all are on their best behavior. The guests are mostly families out for a special occasion (rather than shopping-bag-laden Ladies Who Lunch). Familiar Christmas carols sound less relentless when played on a harp. The Ritz adds a well-decorated tree with artfully wrapped boxes underneath it.
An hour and fifteen minutes after we were seated, we said farewell to tea at the Ritz and went out into the fading afternoon to window shop Newberry Street and walk the Public Garden. It was just a 75-minute respite, but a welcome change from the everyday, and one I can highly recommend. If business or pleasure takes you to Boston, take time for tea.
Notes: The Ritz serves tea seven days a week; weekday reservations generally require just a few days; weekends may need to be booked two weeks in advance. I made Christmas Eve reservations the Monday after Thanksgiving and had the choice of 3 p.m. or 4:30 p.m. A credit card was required to hold the table.
Dec 29th, 1999, 10:06 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks, as always, Neal. I'd just like to add that the Ritz Carlton Huntington in Pasadena does exactly the same tea as you describe. Beautiful old restored hotel with great views, and in California, the stock market will be closed by the time it's time for tea!! We used to go on Easter and/or Mother's Day.
