Delta Airlines foolishly slashed ticket prices over the Fourth of July weekend and one of the cities to which you could fly very inexpensively was Cincinnati, Ohio. So, on a lark, and with no other itinerary other than to see a well-reviewed exhibit at the Cincinnati Art Museum, we went. Herewith a report.

Cincinnati is one of those places of which people are vaguely aware. It's in Ohio, along with a bunch of other cities that start with "C," and either Sammy Sosa or Mark McGuire plays for their baseball team. Before this weekend, I had never set foot there and, as it turns out, I've been missing something. It's a beautiful city amid hilly terrain with a picturesque river as a near-constant companion. I've just one question.... Where are all of the people?

Our standing-room-only flight was the last time we saw a crowd while we were in town. We zipped into the city on an empty freeway, got the lay of the land, and headed for Mount Adams, the neighborhood just east of downtown that is recommended as the city's liveliest. There wasn't a soul on the street. "Well," we thought, "it's still early." So we took in the vista of Cincinnati and the Ohio River from atop the hill, made a note of some shops we hoped to explore later, and headed for the Cincinnati Art Museum in nearby Eden Park.

That ours' was the only car in the parking lot at 9:45 was a little unnerving, but when CAM opened its doors at 10 a.m. and we were still the only car; well, that was spooky. We had come to see an exhibit of the works of John Twachtman, a Cincinnati-born artist who was a major artist working in America and Europe at the end of the 19th century. He was a leader of the American Impressionist movement and an organizer of The Ten, a group of artists that influenced contemporary art tastes for more than 20 years. The exhibition was everything we could have hoped for; intelligently organized, drawn from dozens of sources, and well annotated. And we had the place to ourselves. Oh, there were guards and someone manning the gift shop desk, but from 10 a.m. until 11:00, we didn't see another soul. Between 11 and 11:30, perhaps five people came in to see Mr. Twachtman's work.

CAM also has several galleries full of European and American impressionist art. There are two great Sargents that would have fit in very nicely with the exhibition currently in Boston, but the real pleasure was of seeing other first-rate works by lesser-known artists that we knew only through reproductions in books. CAM also has a small, but excellent display of Egyptian, Greek, and Etruscan antiquities. By 1 p.m., we were ready for lunch. And after the empty rooms of CAM, we were ready for a crowd.

We had noted four restaurants in Mt. Adams that had good reviews, three of them on St. Gregory Street. Our first choice was the Vienna Café and we found a parking spot in front of the restaurant. Unfortunately, the weeds growing up through the sidewalk and the dark windows told us that those good reviews had done the restaurant no good. Our second choice was the Rookwood Pottery Restaurant, which is housed in a former pottery factory and perched on a hillside overlooking Cincinnati. But no outdoor dining was offered, and we left after seeing that a) we were the restaurant's only prospective patrons and b) the menu was limited to bar items like hamburgers, and c) there was no Rookwood pottery on display. Our third choice was Longworth's, where we got our outdoor dining, a fairly good menu selection, and live music from a pianist who crooned through a selection of Don Henley's greatest hits. Two other couples shared this musical reverie. Where ever the Cincinnatians were, it wasn't in Mount Adams.

There was another recommended exhibition on the other side of town, this one at the Cincinnati Museum Center. The Center is housed in an old art deco railroad station and incorporates eight or so different museums. What we were interested in was the Treasure of Egypt, which was organized by the Canadian Royal Museum in Ottawa. It purported to offer more than 300 objects from pre-dynastic times through the New Kingdom. Unfortunately, 90% of what was displayed were reproductions, many of them cheesy to the point of being comic. We know something of Egyptian history; this exhibit muddied that civilization's history to the point of ridiculousness (and all the time, we were subjected to some Cecil B. DeMille-inspired ersatz version of ancient Egyptian music). The average visitor to this exhibit would have some stereotypes reinforced, but would have learned little. The Canadians should be ashamed of themselves.

We spent the rest of our time in Cincinnati exploring the Ohio River. A number of scenic roadways parallel it, offering great vistas off of winding roads that were empty of traffic. We had an opportunity to appreciate what a great area this is, and how attractive the region is. We left feeling like we had just made a good, new friend.

Now, if there were just some people around to share it with...

Neal, it sounds like our beautiful queen city of the west left you cold! or hot! as the day one one of our hottest this year. Many were enjoying the Sunlight Pool at Coney Island - long a holiday favorite place to spend the day, and end the celebration enjoying a wonderful symphony concert on Saturday and Sunday evenings. I know there were festivities planned on our Riverfront (Sawyer's Point) scheduled for all day Saturday - culminating with a fireworks display in the evening,did you miss seing them? If you followed the brick walkway to the river itself, you were there! The Cincinnati Reds were in town for the entire holiday weekend and regained, lost then regained first place in their division from Houston. Many people cheered them on all four days/nights. What about Kings Island (amusement park) that was packed as well. Were you able to visit there? That too is worth a visit. So are many of our beautiful neighborhood parks. What a treat - and a haven for many pickners. Cincinnati's seven hills provide many and varied activities and parades (like when we were kids) during the 4th of July celebrations. Kentucky neighborhoods do the same. I hope you were able to enjoy one or more of them too. Downtown Cincinnati is not an active neighborhood. Few people live in downtown Cincinnati, preferring one of the surrounding "hills". I hope you visit again. Sounds like you just didn't have the right info for this particular trip. Next time - and I hope you do return - you'll need to plan a visit to Findlay Market - which rivals some of the European markets I've seen. Even visit our zoo. It is amazing and so easy to navigate. I hope you stayed at one of the beautiful B&Bs on the Kentucky side of the river. The view from there of our skyline is a memory in the making. Cincinnatians are very friendly people. I'm sorry you didn't know where to find us. July 4th is a BIG event here.

I attended a conference in Cincinnati a few years ago, and liked the city very much, especially the people. I went to a fun restaurant on the river--the name escapes me--and had ribs for the first time (my colleagues couldn't believe it).

Kathy, it sounds to me as though he did enjoy it--he just wondered why he didn't see other people enjoying it too.
I suspect many right-thinking Cincinnatans were one a special mission to NYC, where they celebrated Independence Day by freeing the Plaza One, thus bringing a midwestern can-do spirit to ease the plight of wronged towels.

Kathy, it sounds to me as though he did enjoy it--he just wondered why he didn't see other people enjoying it too.
I suspect many right-thinking Cincinnatans were on a special mission to NYC, where they celebrated Independence Day by freeing the Plaza One, thus bringing a midwestern can-do spirit to ease the plight of wronged towels.

Kathy, I did indeed enjoy Cincinnati as I tried to make clear (well, except for the Egypt exhibit). As Martha points out, the problem was that everyone in Cincinnati was apparently somewhere else.

My fervent hope is that someone will read the review above and follow in my footsteps. When we think of getaways, too many people think "big cities" and hop planes for Chicago, New York, and Washington. I think Cincinnati was a great place to explore, even for a day, and very "manageable." (Delta's giveaway fare would have doubled if I stayed over Saturday night; the exact reverse of most such fares, but entirely in keeping with Delta's buck-the-trend reservations philosophy. As a result, our outbound flight was at 6 a.m.; the return at 7:30 pm., and no, I don't recommend that schedule to others!)

I'm sure the Cincinnati Reds have lots of great players, but none of them are Sammy Sosa (Chicago Cubs) or Mark McGuire (St. Louis Cardinals). I will have to keep in mind that the 4th of July weekend is apparently a good one to beat the crowds at museums, but usually I'm too busy then enjoying a family BBQ or outdoor activities like sailing etc. before heading to the fireworks somewhere. Parade-watching is also on my list for that weekend.

Neal,

Glad you enjoyed the exhibit. I responded to your earlier questions about Cincy.

I would have to agree on your assessment of some of those restaurants in Mt Adams. We had been in Cin for 2 years when we decided to try Rookwood. I rememeber that I had a pasta Special of the Day, and if I had drained off all the extra Olive Oil, I could have half refilled my container here at home. I was "lubricated" quite nicely for several weeks. You're correct, the menu is made up of a lot of burgers that one could get anywhere in the 'burbs. I think they try to get by on the novelty of eating in one of the "furnaces". We won't go again !!

If I remember right, there are a couple of pieces of pottery on display in the left-side dining room (as you enter the front door), but certainly nothing to get excited about. (I don't care for most of the pottery anyhow.)

There are 2 restaurants in Mt A that we will regularly patronize. Petersons (which I think is pretty good, my wife is neutral on however), and Teak Thai. I'm sure Teak could get a run for it's money from Thai restaurants in other cities, but it has offered good, consistant quality each and every visit.

I must agree with Kathy. This past weekend was brutal here (from a weather standpoint). I, for one, was either in the pool, or on the computer. When we did venture out onto the roads, which wasn't much, we even commented on the lack of traffic. I think everyone else in town was hibernating also !!!

Visit us again in the fall or spring !!

Neal: for a man who often lets other people know that they have said something untrue, or ignorant, or espoused unworthy opinions, I was disappointed that you did not know that Mark McGuire plays for the St. Louis Cardinals and that Sammy Sosa plays for the Chicago Cubs. The may play in Cincinnati's Riverfront Stdium, but not (so far) in a Red's uniform.
Having lived near Cincy for 4 years, I concur in your other opinions.

Bob, apart from one scurrilous comment about Athens, Georgia, I don't recall ever having "often let other people know that they have said something untrue, or ignorant, or espoused unworthy opinions." Not my style.

My confusing Cincinnati with St. Louis and Chicago was entirely intentional, and meant to display my cavalier lack of knowledge about the city (all midwestern cities are essentially alike to east coast effetes) before going there. If you didn't get the joke, that's my fault for telling it poorly!

And I'm sorry I said those nasty things about Athens. Is the Varsity still there?

Is it true that Cincinnatians have a great craving for chili and that the city is known for its chili parlors? I wonder just how they make chili there and how it compares with the products from other parts of the USA.

Al,

Yes it's true. Now, you've got to understand, "this is not your mother's chili", nor is it southwest or texmex chili, nor is it anything like you've ever seen or tasted in any of a million chili cook-offs around the country.

There are several "ways" to order Cincinnati chili: 3-way, 4-way, 5-way. The most popular, I believe, is 3-way, which is chili, with grated cheese, all ON a bed of spaghetti noodles, usually served in an oval dish(bowl). 4-way adds onion. 5-way adds beans. There may be variations of this formula, so don't string me up if I'm a little off.

Now the flavor. In it's basic form, Cincy Chili is NOT spicy, i.e. hot, like texmex. (there usually is some form of pepper sauce on the table to add.) The standard recipe includes the usual ingredients (beef, onion, tomato paste, etc) but it also adds extras, like cinnamon, allspice, and unsweetened COCOA. The taste does actually lean toward the sweet, rather than the usual chili flavor. I would say it's "ok", and I have not yet developed a craving. I actualy think the chili is actually much better on a coney type chili dog.

I have heard that there are close to 200 chili parlors in Cincy, and you really cannot drive more than a mile on a major road without seeing one. The major players are Skyline, and Gold Star.

In answer to your question, yes, people here have a craving for it, as is evidenced by the lunch crowds. The best I can say is it is "unique".

Neal, next time you are in Cincinnati, eat at "The BoatHouse" along the river or at "The Montgomery Inn" in Montgomery for the best ribs ever! As far as the Cincinnati Chili--they can have it! Been here 28 years and none of our family will eat it--JMHO though.

Glad to see someone suggest Montgomery Inn and Cincinnati Chili. As a native Cincinnatian, mmmmmmmm to both! The chili is really a greek recipe and there are many small, neighborhood greek restaurants all over our town. There is always chili and coney islands listed on their menu. Coneys begin with a hot dog in a bun, topped with chili, then onion, and finally finely shredded cheese. Most natives love skylines (as we call them); most of the others learn to like them too. On the other hand, you either love 'em or leave 'em. No in-between here.

Neal, I'm sorry I didn't see your original post about our town. Been spending far to much time on the Europe Forum.

Dave , I was watching the Simpsons the other night when Homer went to the annual chili festival and attempted to eat Ned Flanders' 5-alarm chili...he eventually confessed it was only 3 alarm chili.

Is this something to do with the strength of the product or the 'ways' in which it is served?

The Boathouse! That's where I had the first ribs of my life! Mmmmmmmmmm.

Tony,

I know I'm the wrong Dave, but I'm bored, so I'll answer anyway.

"Five-alarm" refers to how hot it is. A five-alarm fire is one where 5 different fire-fighting departments all get called to the scene, in other words a catastrophic, out-of-control blaze. So "Five-alarm" = very spicy food.

(Not bad for an engineer who barely knows what "etymology" means, eh?)

PS: I worked in Cincy one summer, and it's one of my favorite American cities.

Tony,

In Cincy, believe me, "5 Way" chili IS NOT 5 alarm chili. It is not hot in any way (unless you add your own heat in the form of pepper sauce).

I enjoyed reading this thread because I lived in Dayton, Ohio a couple of decades ago, and when things got too exciting and out of control there, we would go to Cincinnati to cool off. Sounds like it would still serve that purpose. Don't suppose Hudepohl beer still exists, tho.

Re Tony's question, we used to rate the spiciness of chilis, not by alarms, but by the number of beers it would take to quench the burning in our mouths, throats and stomachs. Very hard to get beyond a 4 beer chili.

But the real point of my posting is Neal's reference to something called the Canadian Royal Museum in Ottawa. There is no such museum. I can only think of two museums in Canada that have Royal in their name, the Royal Tyrrell in Alberta, which is about dinosaurs and the Royal Ontario in Toronto, which does have an Egyptian wing. It would surprise me that the ROM would organize such a tacky exhibition, but if it is indeed the culprit, perhaps only the 3 million residents of Canada's self-proclaimed world class city need to be ashamed of themselves, letting the other 27 million of us off the hook?

I'm Canadian and I am ashamed.