Nantucket 08 Trip Report

Our annual trek to Nantucket never disappoints. We stay at the Nantucket Boat Basin and eat our way through the island, occasionally doing something else

Our first night tradition, after arrival and getting settled, is we stroll a bit, shop a bit and eat at Cioppino’s in the garden - we’ve never had a disappointing meal - I stick to the ravioli or beef; my husband always seems to go with their seafood special and the blt wedge - we usually finish with key lime pie and the dessert of the night - we always enjoy friendly and attentive service, great food, and the ambiance of eating outside and enjoying a nice wine. We stroll home going in and out of the little side streets and down Main Street to the wharf. It doesn’t get better than this in the summer.

Day One: we head out early and pick up our rental jeep at Youngs: we have company with us who have never been to the island so in some ways we do some repeats we might not otherwise have done, but that is okay, repeats are always good in Nantucket. We take them on our version of the island tour: hydrangeas, Old grist mill, hydrangeas, favorite homes and gardens and along the way hit the beaches like Dionis, Madaket, Surfside, the beaches along the island -some stop and walk - and then head to Toppers at the Wauwinet for lunch outside on the deck -

www.wauwinet.com

we haven’t done this in a long time, and probably won’t do lunch for another few years : my preference is dinner: the place is magnificent, the food is delicious and the service excellent: I just think it is extraordinarily over priced for lunch and considering the portions. I’d gone back and forth too many times over lunch or dinner and in retrospect , especially for our company, should probably done the launch and dinner which is what I would recommend for a fabulous evening: their launch, the Wauwinet Lady, leaves from Straight Wharf at the end of Main Street, for a cruise that takes about an hour to the restaurant and arriving by water is gorgeous and I think dinner, although
also expensive, is more worth it than lunch - plus for lunch I prefer to be more casual and more ‘outside’ than you are even on their deck with is tucked in to the side of the building and you aren’t really on the beach. Even if you have a boat, doing their launch dinner is lovely - I think it also runs for lunch, but that you could check on.

We take the jeep out on the beach along the Coatue Wildlife Refuge and as far along
towards Great Point Light as you can - walk and enjoy that side and watching tons of seals swimming along very close to shore - at first we thought they were a few large black labs ! - then back along toward the Wauwinet along the inland water side. Beautiful birds, views, seagrasses, and that fresh salt air.

We keep cruising the island, head back, still feel no desire to eat, so we opt for a wine, cheeses and interesting olives and bread night and do with that for dinner and strolling the streets and shops along the wharf and for ice cream for dessert.




Day Two: Breakfast at Provisions for a quick egg/cheese/bagel and hot hot coffee and more jeep touring and we end up in Siasconset and lunch at the Summer House - I am disappointed they do not have pizza today b/c that was in my head but I quickly get over it and enjoy my 2nd favorite burger and a cold beer. I love eating outside here and the beach.
www.thesummerhouse.com

We cruise around to some other spots and land at Jettie’s beach, grab a few rental chairs and a cold drink and sit on the beach and read and sleep for a few hours.

Evening: to Galley on Cliffside Beach, one of my all time favorite restaurants anywhere, hands down. Tonight is a tad different, b/c it is the July 4 prix fix evening - and one of the best seats for the island fireworks -
(sometimes for regular dining, they will move your table to the sand but there are other delights tonight anyway) They recently finished a renovation that gave it a facelift it needed.

We start with fun summer cocktails with the bar set up on the beach , alongside wicker and cushioned couches, chairs, loungers and soak up the early evening air and walk along the ocean and soon it is time to begin the dining experience - starting with Henriot, Brut, Champagne, NV -

The food is spectacular, including choices like brandied lobster bisque, scallop ceviche,
butter roasted filet, organic king salmon, - vegetarian, fish , meat choices on the prix fix - their July 4 strawberry/blueberry parfait, strawberry coulis, pound cake -

the wines they chose for the evening were Rodney Strong - a Chalk Hill Chardonnay 07 and a Russian River Pinot Noir 06 and of course, you could order whatever you wanted from the bar

We just about finished our after dinner drinks and headed to the beach , grabbed some chairs and settled in for the fireworks which were spectacular - had one more drink inside and headed back, returned the jeep to the back lot at Young’s, and walked home from there -


Day Three: We all head for breakfast at Fog Island. www.fogisland.com
I am certain I am the Number One Fan in the world of the ultimate home fries:
smothered in bacon, cheddar, sour cream and scallions. Someone has to force me to stop eating them......and I love so many of the omelette or egg combos..... I am good and only eat here once.

We stroll, starting at the top of Main St, and there is light rain - a sure sign it is a shopping day - the guys want to head back - there are sports on the tv - even better, we can really shop without feeling anyone is slowing us down !

We hit the usuals:

So we do, we shop all day and eat ice cream in between.

Evening: We eat at Cinco www.cinco5.com
We enjoy this place - we love the bar and having a drink in the inside lounge and eating outside - we share a ton of things - but mostly I love the olives, serrano ham, squash blossom and lamb chops - others also adore the soft shell crabs - it is always fun here to try a new wine and it is a fine ending to a great vacation -

Departure Day: Up early and that final run to one last store, sandwiches for the trip home from Provisions and we are off until next year -

We love this island which is why we return every year, there is never enough time to eat everywhere we enjoy - we’d have to stay three weeks straight to eat in all of them -
but I would never miss Galley - and Cioppino’s b/c it is tradition now after too many years to think about for our first night - but I am ready to start alternating Cinco and Toppers again to rotate in some others again !

I csnnot tell you how thoroughly depressed your fantastic trip report made me. Weeping now! For a year I have been planning on packing up the hound to return to the boat basin this September. Not sure when their season ends, but it ends early autumn, and this time of year we get fantastic rates midweek.

We rent our jeep at the airport and just love exploring all the nooks and crannies of glorious Nantucket, and the fantastic dining always blows us away.

But, sniffle sniffle...family obligation requires me to spend my expensive 3 night island tour in Bermuda. Sure I will have a scooter, and likely some impressive whether and surf. But mrlou and the hound won't be with me....and I have been dreaming about Nantucket!

Time to hit the lottery so I can do both

Signed
The spoiled littly whiney brat.

Thanks for the report - really does the heart good to just imagine the sounds of the basin, the wind, the rigging, the surf.......ah that ocean air.........

Note to self : Does Ackislander need a house sitter for a few days this autumn? hahahahaha!

gyppielou: I remember - my word association is gyppielou-dog-boat basin...

but hey, we switched this year - I was supposed to go to Bermuda and that got changed and we ended up being able to have our annual in nantucket after all -

must be a reason.....for every season......

and Bermuda? nah, you can't complain too much -

I am trying to find the time to go to Nantucket for the fisrt time. Your trip report makes me want to go even more. When do you think the best time of year is to go? (I hate crowds)

You're my favorite Fodorite, Escargot. I mentioned that the other day on a political thread, but please, let's not go there....

Escargot - the report of your annual visit to Nantucket! It never disappoints. I enjoy your reports and your way with describing all your activities and food experiences. Next year, try 56 Union for a change. We had a wonderful dinner there a few weeks ago. Interesting menu, great ambiance and wine list. We've driven by so many times and finally stopped in. We also lunched poolside at the Summer House and had a tasty (but expensive!) lobster roll. They did have the pizza that day which also looked good. And the seals this year! What entertainment - we also went out to Great Point where we saw the seals poaching fish from the guys surf casting. They took the fish, along with the lure, bait and a lot of line! To LHG - it's not to late to plan a trip to the island. The fall is a lovely time to visit (and many people prefer a fall visit to avoid the summer crowds).

nantucketislandresorts.com offers some great autumn specials.

Just go an email today. sigh.....

LHG: Thanks I needed that tonight !

I love Nantucket in all seasons - I would say it depends on your interests - clearly, if you want to be on the beach in the heat of summer that is the time for you -

but if you enjoy the beaches, lighthouses, even on a crisp fall day with a sweatshirt - anytime from now until end of November would work - if you hate crowds, stay away from their 'event weekends' - like Christmas stroll or Daffodil weekend, that type of thing - because it is crowded then-

We have been for Christmas stroll and love that too, but if you don't like crowds -

go before that even in December -

There is nothing like sitting in front of a warm roaring fire with a good book in an historic Nantucket Inn after a walk down cobblestone covered Main Street or a brisk beach walk -

Nantucket is an island rich in history, great areas to walk and beautiful scenery - enjoy it anytime !!


MARIEF: thanks -
I looked at 56 Union online and it looks fabulous - I will add it to our list for next visit- the menu/decor/all looked great !

LHG, if I were planning a trip to Nantucket for next year, I would aim for the last two weeks in August and any time thereafter up to Columbus Day. There is still plenty of time this year, but read on.

Things are much less busy after college students and families with children in public school leave.

Labor Day week is terrific as is the next week because most people have had to go home. We have lots of daytrippers, but they don't eat out at night. Much easier to get reservations. I wonder how far in advance escargot had to book to get the Galley on July 4?

But there is a weather risk. We are going to have two perfect beach days today and tomorrow, followed by a rainy Hanna weekend. It will then be coolish next week. Worst is that we are going to have to pull our little sailboat owing to the expectation of high winds, and it is too much work to put it back in.

We get a period like this every year, but as escargot says, if you don't mind a sweatshirt and a good book or three from one of our TWO wonderful independent bookstores (shameless plug) you will have a great time. Then it will warm up again, and we will go through the same thing two or three times before it gets cool for real.

So, as a Boston car dealer says, "Come on down!", though he goes to the Vineyard.

Ackislander - LOVE the book stores - did you see this article last week in the Globe about Mitchell's ? good to know that will remain as is -

http://preview.tinyurl.com/5ft3es

Our reservations for the Galley are made about 4 weeks out - usually as soon as they open - actually this year I had to leave a message, don't pin me to it, but somewhere around the last week of May and he faxed me the form around the first week of June - this is the only reservation I make ahead that requires a deposit, etc due to the nature of the evening - the popularity, being a prix fix, etc -

Cioppino's I always do around then also, b/c it is our traditional first night dinner - so I tend to do the others then also - but ones like Cinco, Toppers, I can do on opentable.com

Enjoyed your report escargot. We had a fabulous time this year with our family in Nantucket also. Who knew you could have a perfect, relaxing vacation with a ton family members, all in the same place. Only in Nantucket! We were here to celebrate our parents' 50th wedding anniversary. They loved, loved, loved Nantucket Island. We stayed at The Century House on Cliff Road, http://www.centuryhouse.com. We had rented the entire floor. It's a beautiful renovated inn, very charming, wonderful staff and great breakfast.

We loved the beaches: Madaket, Dionis, Sconset and Stepps. Surfside was so packed. We found spots where there weren't as many people but you really have to look. They provided towels at the inn, so it was nice, but we were there morning - late afternoon. We didn't do lunch at Wauwinet or dinner at Ciopinno's but we did loved the Galley (http://www.fodors.com/world/north-am...ew-200820.html). Oh what a wonderful meal! The icecream is heavenly on Nantucket. And we also found that little place that has fresh fruit smoothies ( a must!) by the wharf. And you can't forget the sandwiches at Something Natural - http://www.somethingnatural.com -we had a feast! Perfect for the beach.

There's something about Nantucket Island that just changes your heart and makes you quiet down and enjoy the nature. Strolling down the cobblestone streets under the night sky, seeing the sunset, or just spending time with my family on the porch are memories I will cherish forever.
We hope to come back here for a vacation just my husband and I.

So happy that you had a wonderful family vacation and to know thtta you enjoyed the Century House.

There is just enough to do to keep busy and not so much that it stresses you out trying to hit the high spots. People love to come and just sit on our front porch.

We are about 6 minutes from Main Street for a slow walker, and you would never know that we are even in town. People can't believe -- except maybe for Surfside Beach -- that there are 40,000 people on island in August because you could find a beach to walk on where you might meet four other people in half an hour.

I am away from the island for much of the winter this year, and it makes me homesick to read your wonderful report.

escargot! how did i miss this post when you first posted it! I loved every delicious word about my favorite place. Thank you!

My wife and I love the Galley as well. We ate there twice last summer on our visit to Nantucket.

I'm glad you didn't waste your time at Chanticleer as it's not even close to being the restaurant from the previous owners.

Well it was nice to see this pop up again - thanks emcash and tay5 - nice to remember sunny days while it is pouring buckets on the east coast as we get ready to head into NYC for some fun days -

(Andrew8 I still have on my list to get those trip notes up from our time in Napa/CA coast - it was fabulous and your notes were so helpful: I have to get that done before the holidays get any closer!)

We just returned from Christmas Stroll 2008. The island is also beautiful this time of year. The downtown streets are aglow with the lights of many Christmas trees, the dory in the Easy Street basin has its little Christmas tree and Christmas cheer is abundant. Sadly, we've closed down our house but it will be waiting for our return at Daffodil weekend. Reading these posts again also makes me nostalgic for the Grey Lady. I am happy so many others enjoy the beauty of Nantucket!

escargot, we will be in NYC this weekend too. The rain is supposed to stop, I hope! can't wait to see the tree with my DD. we've taken her every year, but this year (she is 3) i think she will get it! have a great weekend.