Owen O'Neill

It was a short trip but fun - arrived Thurs afternoon and left Sunday. We intentionally arrived after Mardi Gras and appreciated the light tourist traffic at this time of year. Stayed at the Dive-Inn - an okay for the money guesthouse but too far from downtown for convenient stops back to the room to change, rest etc. Next trip I will stay much closer in (we were near Napeoleon and St. Charles - about a 25 minute streetcar ride or $10 w/tip by cab to downtown). Antoine's for dinner - dissapointing and overpriced. My date enjoyed it (she chose it) but I was very unimpressed. I was also unimpressed with the cafe au lait at Cafe du Monde. I'm a fan of good espresso drinks and cafe con leche but theirs didn't hit the mark. The only good coffee I had was at a CC location (City Coffee) and it was excellent. We had great oysters and mediocre gumbo at Acme Oyster House, a fantastic Friday lunch at Olivier's (everything but the coffee was first rate). Went to the "Late Night Catechism" show on Friday night - very funny especially if you're Catholic or attended Catholic school. Had a late night Oyster Po'boy and a huge tub of steamed crawfish at the French Market Cafe (on Decatur near the Market). It was casual with very reasonable prices. We did the Honey Island swamp tour on sat morning and can recommend it highly but due to cool temps there was little to be seen in terms of active wildlife. Our guide "Captain Ben" was extremely knowledgeable and has a real passion for the history and ecosystem of the swamp. Saturdcay night was dinner at Lemongrass in the International House Hotel. It's supposed to be Vietnamese but could more accurately be described as fusion with Viet influences. Very cool decor and good food but IMHO overpriced. We then went to Rock 'n Bowl, where locals hang on weekends. It's a bowling alley with live music - a bit run down but fun and casual. The band was a modern rock band (we were hoping for Zydeco but that's on a different night). We did spot a Thai restaurant in the same shopping plaza and want to check it out next time. It's called Bangkok Thai and was absolutely packed with locals (apparently has a reputation as the best Thai in NO). Back to downtown after bowling and had a very good dessert at NOLA as no one else seemed to be serving late (other than the Bourbon Street bars and we wanted something more subdued). I went with no specific ideas about what to expect but had some good food, a relaxing weekend and found the local folks to be very friendly and helpful. Next trip will be better planned with accomdoations closer to downtown and a rental car so we can get out to some outlying areas to explore. Can't comment on the club or bar scene but it certainly looked to be lively enough.

Susan

Owen, thanks so much for the trip report. I'm doing a similar short stay this coming weekend and I appreciate your "thumbs up" and "thumbs downs." We'll check out Olivier's. You mentioned it was chilly, did you need a warm coat in the evenings? How did you get to the Rock n Bowl? I'm under the impression it's not in the FQ. Any other recommendations on shops, souvenirs, restaurants or music clubs would be appreciated. We're staying closer in to the Quarter and not planning on getting a car. Thanks!

Owen O'Neill

Rock 'n Bowl is about a $12 - 13 cab ride (w/tip) from FQ. It was fun but definitely check ahead for what type of music is playing. We arrived at 8PM and waited about 45 minutes for a lane - I think you may be able to reserve lanes for earlier in the evening but when we left at 10 PM there were no lanes available until after midnight. I'd be more inclined to check Tipitina's or the Maple Leaf for musical experiences. I can't comment on souvenir shops as I visited none, nor did I stop in any bars. I did find a very cool stand at the French Market's 'flea market' section. They had unusual tin lunch boxes and other items. Found a great "Bone Daddy" t-shirt (it's a character from the fertile but wacky mind of filmmaker Tim Burton). There were lots of interesting antique shops in FQ but we happened by them at night when they were closed. There's a really cool pharmacy museum on Chartres near Jackson Square - it's the actual preserved contents of a working pharmacy from 1803. We missed it this time but my friend saw it on a previous trip and said it was truly worthwhile. We had planned to eat at Mr. B's Bistro and I'm sorry our schedule changes prevented it - we stopped in late to get dessert but they were already closed - smelled fantastic. Olivier's was very good and prices were reasonable. I suppose everyone has to at least visit Cafe du Monde when they go to NO but it was nothing special by my standards. I kept thinking that beignets must be some very special treat but discovered that they're just fried dough with powdered sugar. Not my thing but many love them. Wish I could be of more help but our time there was limited. I did have the good fortune of stoppin in the airport gift shop on my way out and FINALLY finding a bag of yellow grits to take home. I had them once on a southern trip but none of my southern friends knew where to buy them (no... they are not cheese grits). It turns out to be a brand of grits that leaves the germ of the corn in the grits, creating a yellowish color and allowing a flavor that is lacking in regular white grits. Can't wait to cook some up this weekend!

Owen O'Neill

Susan - forgot to mention... days were warm but with a breeze - shirt sleeves were okay but evenings were cool - I brought a jacket and wore it but could probably have gotten away with a thick long sleeved shirt. Women should plan on having a jacket or wrap for evening and men should have a light jacket or heavy long sleeved shirt. The food at Antoine's was okay but at $115 for two entrees, two soups, two desserts and one side dish (everything is a la carte)... I expected more. I've had far better meals for far less $$ in NYC and elsewhere.

Susan

Owen, we're skipping Antoine's and I already have reservations for the jazz brunch at Mr. B's Bistro. Thanks for the extra info - the weather sounds much preferable to visiting in July!

offended

" I kept thinking that beignets must be some very special treat but discovered that they're just fried dough with powdered sugar."

Oh God, I KNOW you're a Northerner now.

"Just fried Dough"!!! and Jumbalaya is "Just a rice dish" and Crawfish Etoufee is "Just a seafood dish". I kind of pity you in a way.

Owen O'Neill

You are welcome to pity me although it's unwarranted (BTW... yes i am a "Northerner"). I had some fantastic Gumbo during my visit and I have tried Jambalaya on many occasions - also tried boiled crawfish and although it was tasty it was a bit too much mess and work for my liking. that's not a criticism of boiled crawfish - it's a recognition of my own viewpoint and idiosyncrasies (I feel much the same way about Maryland crab boils although I do try to eat one at least once every year or two). Gumbo and Jambalaya certainly not "just another rice dish" any more than Paella is. My intent was to offer an observation - sorry if you were offended. Here in the Northeast at fairs, carnivals etc. there is a very popular dish sold as "fried dough" or "pizza frites". It's deep fried dough with powdered sugar on it. In Italian areas or at Italian cultural fests and church festivals, an identical dish is served (albeit in a slightly different shape) that is called "zeppoli's" (spelling?). Are you implying or stating that beignet's are different in more than just name? Is there something in them other than fried dough and powdered sugar topping? By the way... the fact that I don't care for fried dough i any style does not explicitly or even implicitly imply that I lack respect or appreciation for the culture and cuisine of the South in general or New Orleans in specific. I was simply surprised that they were the simple dish that they are. Friends who visited NO previously spoke of them in such reverential tones that I assumed it was something very different than anything I'd tried before. If you detect some sort of offensive or critical tone in my post that I'm missing, please clarify. We had a few very good meals and some that were just okay but it was a first visit and I'll do more advance research before the next visit (yes, I enjoyed NO enough that I intend to return). Frankly, I'm puzzled by folks who resent it when some of us post our frank and candid impressions of places we visit, warts and all. I live adjacent to NYC and enjoy spending a great deal of time there but when I read negative comments from some NYC visitors I easily recognize that it's a matter of their own perspective as well as the places they visited, stayed at or ate in. I also recognize that there are typically some fundamental truths in their comments. Thanks goodness we're all so different from one another - makes life more interesting, doesn't it? One of the reasons I read this forum is to see the experiences and perspectives offered by other travelers who post all their observations - positive, negative and neutral.

bennie

Offended - beignets are just fried dough - maybe the ones in New Orleans are better prepared than that which we get up here in the north but it sure tasted like the stuff you get at every carnival in the northeast. Call it fried dough, call it beaver tails, make it big, make it small, cover it with powdered sugar or maple syrup - however you slice it -its still fried dough.

yes

Oh, I suppose you're right Bennie. I mean Paris is just a city, the Pyramids are just some ricks in the desert, and the Grand Canyon is just a hole in the ground.

I guess they do taste just like every piece of fried dough that you get in any carnival in the northeast. Umm, Carnival Fried Dough!! Dipped in oil (lard) that has not been changed since Nixon was in office. My what a satisfying life you must lead! I guess after a hard days work there's nothing like relaxing with a succulent Quarter Pounder (with cheese), and sipping a vintage coca-cola (or is it Diet Coke? I know you have to watch the wasteline!)

I think what you are trying to say is that you are a jaded individual uhappy with his/her life. That's fine, but I pity you.

And Owen, while I respect your POV (even I'll admit that NO has its share of problems) I still must pity you. There are some things that you just don't understand. Much like AMericans who occasionaly visit Paris, you may learn to appreaciate NO, but you will never live it. And that's ehy it's a little sad.

xxx

Ok - everybody has an opinion and a right to speak it. Let's quit "dogging" somebody just because we don't agree with them and let it go. Calling down on them because of regional differences just isn't right especially if you haven't seen, eaten or have any other knowledge of what they are referring to from their part of the country/world.

KenCT

Pity me, too.

I love New Orleans and visit as often as I can. I love the seediness of Baywater and the elegance of the Garden District. I love the multicultual jumble of the people, the food, the music, the lifestyles. I love pretentious restaurants with mediocre food and sleazy dives with amazing meals.

But I don't like beignets - they're bland, greasy and the powdered sugar gets all over everything. Get me to Croissant 'Or for a fruit tart, though, or to Angelo Brocato for spumoni, and I'm in love.

KenCT

Bywater

bennie

To Yes, you are right:

"I think what you are trying to say is that you are a jaded individual uhappy with his/her life. That's fine, but I pity you."

Yes you are right - how did you know? You are amazing. I can't believe that you have seen so deeply into my soul just based on my comments about beignets. You are so right I'm jaded, hard to please, mean, selfish, I knock over old ladies crossing the street, I steal candy from little children, I jay walk. Oh how my sins have been revealed by your insight! I will repent and change my life from this moment forward. I will worship beignets from now on. Never again shall I be misled by my own tastebuds. Thank you! Thank you for showing me the light.