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Museums of DC - not too shabby

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Museums of DC - not too shabby

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Old Nov 2nd, 1999, 07:17 AM
  #1  
Martha
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Museums of DC - not too shabby

I'd like to pick up and extend the thread begun in another general request for info on DC and focus on the museums -- best, worst, insider ideas, little-known gems.

It seems to me that museums in DC serve a slightly different purpose from all those art-vault museums of Europe and other major American cities. They are there to reflect some aspects of culture that are specifically American (including, I suppose, "borrowing" the cache of great world art).

One of my own favorties is the National Portrait Gallery, which offers a lot more than just a bunch of old dead presidents sitting in antique chairs and looking forbidding. There are figures in our history that were painted with surprising immediacy, giving us a great picture of certain moments and places as well as "real" people. It's never crowded.

Other comments?
 
Old Nov 2nd, 1999, 08:32 AM
  #2  
edie
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I vote for National Museum of Women in the arts.
 
Old Nov 2nd, 1999, 09:27 AM
  #3  
Bob Brown
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The mineral collection at the Museum of Natural History is quite good and extensive. I do find that the paleontology side of the house needs improvement. But there is limited space. The aerospace exhibits across the Mall, however, are one of a kind.

The National Gallery, to me, at least the original building, is a beautiful structure, and the collection is steadily improving. Unfortunately art is very expensive and acquring a new piece of fame takes a considerable budget. In terms of education, I think the National Gallery does a good job, but one that could be improved upon.
I find it difficult to compare DC museums with the ones in a a city like Paris because, relatively speaking, American museums got a very late start. And we did not have an emperor or king looting art from every where in Europe and Africa to stock our museums!!
 
Old Nov 2nd, 1999, 09:33 AM
  #4  
Neal Sanders
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I, too, chuckled at the idea that it was “hilarious” to compare Washington’s museums to those of Europe. With the exception of western European art prior to AD1000 and the civilizations of ancient Greece, Rome, and Egypt, Washington museums probably provide the best survey of the world’s culture of any city on the face of the earth. (The absence of Greek, Roman and Egyptian artifacts in Washington is due to the museum politics of the time when those sites were being actively explored, not a lack of interest in collecting.)

Washington’s – and by extension, America’s – advantage in establishing collections owes a great deal to our multicultural heritage. The fabulous Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam is a wonderful repository of Dutch and Flemish art and ceramics. The Prado is a celebration of Iberian creativity. But you’ll find no Chinese porcelain, African fetishes or pre-Columbian pots in those museums. You can see all three – plus the finest holdings of Dutch art outside of the Netherlands and the best Spanish art outside of Spain – in the U.S. Washington’s rise to prominence as a center for art is a 20th century phenomenon, but the National Gallery’s and the Smithsonian’s ability to attract collections is now legendary. The art that will descent upon Washington from the estate of Paul Mellon alone would populate a world-class institution.

That said, what are the “hidden gems”? I would get myself to the National Portrait Gallery before it closes at the end of the year (for two years we are told). I would add to that the Freer Gallery, the Phillips Collection, and the Library of Congress. A few words on each:

The NPG should not be confused with its namesake in London; the one with people (as Martha puts it) “in antique chairs and looking forbidding.” Rather, the Smithsonian’s National Portrait Galllery tends to organize exhibits around themes. One that I believe it still open is “Ben Franklin’s Circle,” which starts with the Franklin portrait, but then moves on to the people with whom Franklin corresponded or met, and then illustrates those people with artifacts. There’s a portrait of Dewitt Clinton, and it is a fine portrait, but it is overwhelmed by the map that made Mr. Clinton famous; the first cartographic survey of New York, in glorious hand coloring. Multiply Dewitt Clinton by 50 and you get the contents of one exhibit at NPG. Multiply that by five or six, and you have an idea of what is going on at any given time at the National Portrait Gallery.

The Freer is a “vanity” museum in that Mr. Freer (a genuine robber baron) gave his collection to the country provided that a museum be built for it. The government caved in, but what a collection it is… Japanese, Korean, and other “Oriental” art. Beautifully displayed and explained, its lone equal in this country is the Asian Art Museum in San Francisco. But there’s more: Freer kept company with a group of American artists who were heavily influenced by Japan, and their works are scattered throughout the museum. But one room in particular is not to be missed. It’s the Peacock Room, the inspired madness of James Whistler. An Englishman made the mistake of leaving Whistler alone in a house for a few months, and the result was a room unlike any other I have ever seen. When the Englishman refused to pay Whistler, the artist added a few flourishes that will be apparent to any viewer. Mr. Freer acquired the room, shipped it to America, and it is now restored to its glory inside the museum.

The Phillips Collection is a private museum meaning you – gasp! – have to pay to get in ($8). It was Washington’s first “modern” art museum, and Mr. Phillips collected avidly. The gem of the collection is Renoir’s “Luncheon of the Boating Party” but that’s just a starting point. The French impressionists and post-impressionists are very well represented, as are American artists of the first few decades of the 20th century. The Phillips would shine in any city; amazingly, with everything else going on in Washington, this museum gets lost in the shuffle. It’s just west of Dupont Circle in Northwest Washington.

And, the Library of Congress, which is an architectural gem as well as a collection of things that have to be seen to be appreciated. What’s fascinating is that the LofC has no “permanent” installations. Rather, the curators haul out stuff entrusted to their care and arrange it in fascinating ways. There’s the room where George Gershwin composed, for example. Or a history of the printed English-language Bible. There’s also what I call, “America’s Greatest Hits,” a revolving compendium of original documents that shaped American and world history. All very well explained, all beautifully displayed. The Library of Congress is just east of the Capitol building.

(Edie, I have tried very hard to appreciate the National Museum of Women in the Arts – enough so that I gave them money for several years. They occasionally put on an interesting exhibit, and there are two gorgeous Lila Cabot Perry portraits up on the top floor, but the museum’s permanent collection tends too much toward tutus dipped in plaster of Paris.)
 
Old Nov 2nd, 1999, 10:24 AM
  #5  
Cheryl
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I posted on this topic on the other thread, and Neal just said essentially what I did about the breadth of the collection at the National Gallery (however, he said it much better than I did). One other thing that the National Gallery does better than any other art museum I have been to is educate the viewer about the art. In most rooms (not all, I've always wondered if it were money or interest the museum ran out of first), there is a large laminated card that goes into great depth (in several languages)about many of the works of art in the room. I usually buy the guidebook at museums, and I have the one for the National Gallery, but the card in the room has even more information than the book. To my mind, this makes the museum one of the most informative and interesting to which I have ever been.

Neal-

In all my trips to the DC museums, I have yet to visit the Freer (I know very little about Asian art), but thanks to your post of several months ago, we have incorporated a trip to this museum into our next visit to DC. We also saw the Egyptian exhibit in NYC recently due to your review. It's still not my thing, but I learned a lot in the 2 hours we spent there. Thanks.

Bob-

You didn't mention the anthropology exhibits at the Museum of Natural History. Does anyone know if these have been redone lately? The last time I was there, they looked like something out of the 1950's; the PC movement seems to have swept right by this museum, and I found some of these tableaus bordering on offensive, and certainly dated and misleading.

I don't have any little known gems to add, but I would like to say that the American History museum still presents some of the most thought-provoking exhibits I've ever seen. Even with the controversy that inevitably accompanies these exhibits, they invariably manage to be informative and honest.
 
Old Nov 2nd, 1999, 10:50 AM
  #6  
ellen
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Scanning through the lengthy responses thus far, I'm seeing no mention of the Corcoran Gallery - surely one of the finest collection of American painting in the U.S. We are fairly crazed museum goers and count this among our very favorite.
 
Old Nov 2nd, 1999, 11:07 AM
  #7  
lisa
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Another big fan of DC museums here!!

I caught the Annie Liebovitz photography exhibit "Women" at the Corcoran Gallery this weekend with my mom and we both really enjoyed it. The cost was $5.00 apiece and although the museum recommended buying tickets in advance through a phone ticket service, we were able to walk right in in the middle of a Saturday afternoon with no problem -- it wasn't sold out -- and thereby avoided the exhorbitant service charges you get if you order tickets by phone. I think it's there until January or February. There are about 80 (very large) photographs and it took us about 80 minutes to see the whole exhibit. Some of the photos are stunners and some I was less crazy about, but there's definitely something there for everyone. The museum also has a very nice gift shop (I always find the nicest holiday and birthday gifts at museum gift shops).

For a city of its size, Washington DC has an incredibly large number of museums, both public and private.

I do absolutely love the National Museum of Women in the Arts -- a gorgeous building and they get some wonderful exhibits.

Speaking of buildings, how about the National Building Museum (or as a pint-sized friend of mine likes to call it, the "Building building").

I also really like the outdoor sculpture garden at the Hirschorn.

Visiting children generally seem to like the Air & Space museum best. It's not my personal favorite but I do like the IMAX theatre there a lot, and now I can't wait to catch the "Galapagos" 3-D IMAX movie at the Natural History Museum.

One great thing about all of the Smithsonian museums in DC (Air & Space, National Gallery, Natural History, etc.) is that they are FREE to all. It makes me feel good to know that anyone of any means can bring their family to a museum here for a day (or to the National Zoo -- which we also went to this weekend -- the baby Siberian tigers are adorable!).
I remember having sticker shock at some of the museums in Europe.

My favorite private museum in Washington is definitely the Phillips collection. I've been there so many times and just love it.
 
Old Nov 2nd, 1999, 11:10 AM
  #8  
KT
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A few often-overlooked specialist museums that come to mind:

The Textile Museum--Very interesting special exhibitions if you're interested in rugs, weavings, etc., from all over the world.

The Renwick Gallery--Part of the Smithsonian, but often ignored because it's not on the Mall; excellent special exhibitions of contemporary and historic decorative arts and crafts, including glass, quilts, furniture, metalwork, you name it.

Dumbarton Oaks--Owned by Harvard. Definitely a specialist collection -- pre-Columbian and Byzantine -- but worth a visit even for the nonspecialist because of its atmosphere at a former grand estate in Georgetown with beautiful gardens.

There are many others. Those are just a few, and reflect my personal bias towards the arts.

As to the original dismissive statement (in another thread) about DC's museums being laughable compared to Europe's: I think that the comments in this thread have been much more objective than that original put-down. For what it's worth, I was an art history major and studied at an American liberal arts college with a well-respected art history program and at a major British university. My classes at both of those places frequently made reference to art in American collections. I also have known many Europeans who are well-schooled in the arts and history and well-travelled in Europe who have absolutely loved museums in DC and elsewhere in the US (and elsewhere in the world, for that matter).

I have been to many European museums, and I love visiting them. But I don't think Americans should be so blinded by the big names like the Louvre that we overlook the truly wonderful things available in the US as well. There is no limit to the number of things worth seeing in museums all over the world (not just in art museums, but in museums of history, science, anthropology, etc.). There's no need to set up this arbitrary us-versus-them thing.
 
Old Nov 2nd, 1999, 12:39 PM
  #9  
larry
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Can't believe nobody added the Holocaust Museum yet. Very powerful.

 
Old Nov 2nd, 1999, 01:26 PM
  #10  
Bob Brown
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I was happy to see that somebody mentioned the Phillips Gallery, the Renwick Gallery, and the museum at Dumbarton Oaks. I was fortunate enough to catch a special exhibit of Impressionist paintings there about 4 years ago, but it slipped my mind!!
(Age has its drawbacks!!)
It has been about 2 years since I visited the anthropological exhibits in the Museum of Natural History. So, I am not current on the exhibit. But the last time I was there, it did need updating.
For Neal: what will happen at the National Gallery now that the Mellon paintings are coming? I am not up to date there either.
 
Old Nov 2nd, 1999, 02:06 PM
  #11  
Beth
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For a real hidden gem, and of a very particular interest, there is the Dayton Miller Flute Collection at the Library of Congress. The flutes aren't on public display, you have to arrange for a special tour to see them. But what an amazing collection of a wide variety of materials, nationalities. Most of them are not currently playable, but a few are. And when I toured with my flute choir some years ago we are allowed to actually play some. Its a very cool think for a flutist. They also keep the Stradivarius instruments in the same room, so we saw these as well. I suspect there are other little known, hidden collections like this. Anybody know any others?
 
Old Nov 3rd, 1999, 04:04 AM
  #12  
Neal Sanders
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Another "hidden gem" is Hillwood, the Marjorie Meriweather Post home off Rock Creek Park in Northwest Washington. Hillwood, which has been closed for the past year for renovation, houses Mrs. Post's remarkable collection of Russian objets d'art, which she and her husband acquired when he was ambassador to the Soviet Union in the 1930s. Strapped for cash, Stalin sold off mountains of objects by the barrel lot, mostly seized from churches and private collections. Hillwood is expected to re-open early in 2000 and will require an appointment for a tour. The docents who conduct the tours truly know and love the collection.

Bob, the Mellon bequest was made at the time of his death last January. At that time, the plan was to devote a room in the East Wing (which houses mostly temporary exhibits) while a more permanent solution was found. Perhaps someone with better access can answer this question.
 
Old Nov 3rd, 1999, 10:28 AM
  #13  
lisa
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Larry: I agree -- the most powerful museum-going experience I ever had was my first trip to the Holocaust Museum. I have been back twice since then and it is still incredibly moving. The best part of the museum, to me, is the film at the end in which the survivors tell their stories. People who don't allow time at the end to watch that are really missing something. I know some people who have not yet visited the museum because they are afraid it is going to be too depressing. Obviously it is very sad, but some of it is also incredibly uplifting -- not just the stories of the survivors, but also those of people who risked their lives to save others. I never leave it feeling depressed, but rather, hopeful.
 
Old Nov 3rd, 1999, 11:01 AM
  #14  
Diane
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I have always considered the Renwick to be a perfect place to meet someone...there is an extraordinary public lounge on the second floor. I've seen some fabulous exhibits of glass and Shaker furniture. Whatever the current exhibit, it is the perfect size to visit if you have a limited amount of time! I am also a lover of modern art and sculpture, and the Hirshhorn is amazing. While both the Freer and the Hirshhorn predominantly display one man's (in the case of Hirshhorn --and I always spell it wrong so don't fuss out if I have here-- one couple's) collection, they often feature special exhibits not in "the collection."
 
Old Nov 3rd, 1999, 03:55 PM
  #15  
Bob Brown
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Thanks Neal. I have friends who live in Dc, but health problems have curtailed their former active involvement in the National Gallery. I had relied on them to keep me up to speed.

I can honestly say, that the National Gallery, and others in the DC area, have done an exceptional job with educating the public. When I lived in Dc, I tried to attend as many lectures as I could.
And the number of special exhibits there have been fabulous. I remember a special assemblage of El Greco paintings, objects of art from the Treasure Houses of Britain, the Edo Art of Japan, art of the plains Indians from our own West, and many, many others.
To me the original building is one of the most beautiful in the world.
 
Old Nov 3rd, 1999, 05:20 PM
  #16  
Martha
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I'm enjoying the posts and it all serves to give me a quiet sense of patriotic pride -- of which there is rather little lately.

A quick re-take on Dumbarton Oaks -- I recommend the gardens there for those who appreciate the formal gardens of Europe, but for a moment of architectural joy, step inside the graceful glass pavillion housing the pre-Columbian art. They could display street-sweepings there and I'd still love the small building.
 
Old Nov 3rd, 1999, 06:59 PM
  #17  
Bob Brown
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This has the potential to be quite interesting. I hope others contribute.
I learn from these types of exchanges.
So I hope some more well informed comments come rolling in.
 
Old Nov 3rd, 1999, 10:27 PM
  #18  
Donna
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I would definitely agree that the National Portrait Gallery is a gem! An unexpected, charming, surprise. Particularly the whimsical portrait of Hubert Humphrey and the Norman Rockwell of Nixon that Nixon "hated" but I found utterly representative of his character (no pun intended)! Having visited dozens of European museums, those in DC are not only beyond compare - they are FREE (well, sort of - but our taxes are considerably lower than those in countries with the "finest"). Even more amazing, most are located in a very central spot (around the Mall) and could not be more convenient to visit. The breadth and depth of everything imaginable offered could not be more appealing or comprehensive. Any seasoned "world traveler" who has not visited the treasures of our nation's capital first, in my opinion, has no measure of comparison! The collections are astounding and quite astonishing.
 
Old Nov 4th, 1999, 06:47 AM
  #19  
lola
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Lisa- As to your mention of the moving film at the end of the visit to the Holocaust museum, I can provide a footnote. (This may be tough to hear for some.) About 20 years ago I worked on an autobiography for/with one of the six people, Cecile. She tells the story of her mother, and how she had to make a Sophie's Choice-type decision, taking her grandchild away from her daughter as they were leaving the boxcars, having just overheard secretly that otherwise her daughter (Cecile's sister) would be killed--and knowing that she herself and her grandchild were about to die, with no chance. Cecile's sister indeed survived. The book was never published, but through this great museum, countless people have heard Cecile's tribute to her mother's bravery and love. I agree that it is unfortunate that many people do not leave the time (about an hour) to see that film, and it is, in many ways, the most moving part of the museum experience. (While we were writing this story, Cecile called and told me to look at The New Times Magazine--there was an article on Raul Wallenberg, the brave Scandinavian hero who helped Jews escape the Nazis. There was a picture of a group of Jews leaving the trains on their way into Aushwitz. "See the woman in the center of the picture," said Cecile. "That is my mother." Sure enough, the woman, wearing a head shawl and carrying Cecile's nephew to their immediate doom was the same woman whose photos Cecile had shown me in happier times. The picture is also on the wall of the Holocaust museum, and I have seen it in the NY Jewish museum as well.)
 
Old Nov 4th, 1999, 10:23 AM
  #20  
lisa
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Lola -- what an amazing story. It makes me want to go back and watch the film again.
 


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