(Part 1) Aloha, my Fodor bruddahs and sistahs! We just flew back from Kauai and boy are our arms tired!!! Hey, whaddya want from me, I'm exhausted!!! Anyway, let me get right to the point - the trip was absolutely fabulous, and our emotional bond with Kauai just continues to grow stronger and stronger. As a reminder, although we've been to Kauai many times since our first trip in '89, this was the first in the summertime, and there are certainly contrasts to be drawn. First of all, the weather is much more reliable this time of year, and we especially appreciated the sunshine and calm waters on the north shore, a marked departure from what we're used to in the winter, when so often we have to drive south or west to find the sunshine. The biggest shock for me was Hanalei Bay, where the water was as calm as a lake and the sandbars (no, not THAT kind of bar!) went out as far as the eye could see. And, even though there still are almost daily sprinkles there, they pass through quickly enough and the conditions were dry enough that we were able to do the first 2 miles of the Kalalau trail for the first time in 8 years - it's always too sloppy when we're normally there in February. The one thing we did miss by being there in the summer was the whales, which are generally peak in their presence from December to March. This also marked the first time that I didn't see a single monk seal at Poipu Beach, not sure why...

As for activities, this time we did relatively few organized activities through tour companies, and those included Kipu Backcountry Adventures ATV tour, which was supposed to take us to a waterfall but the conditions were too dangerous that day, but still was great fun, and on our big anniversary, when my husband had surprised me by chartering a fishing boat to take us out all day for a ride along the NaPali coast, a sight that never ceases to take my breath away. I can't recommend highly enough taking one of the boatrides that go along the NaPali, as well as a helicopter tour, of course. One thing of note is the fact that we learned that some of the bigger boat companies are getting even bigger by buying out some of the smaller ones, i.e. HoloHolo Tours has bought Blue Water Sailing, and Captain Andy's has bought NaPali Eco Adventures, which was an outfit we used to enjoy going with. I'm a little concerned about this and will probably look to patronize the smaller companies on future trips. Otherwise, we scheduled our daily activities based on what side of the island we were staying on, so the first week when we were staying in Poipu, we did Waimea Canyon and attempted to hike one of the smaller Kokee trails, but gave up when we couldn't find the trail's starting point:-? - please folks, don't let this happen to you!!!

Part 2

OK, so where was I??? Well, let me go on to giving you the synopsis of each week's highlights and recommendations:

Week 1: Stayed on the Poipu side, and aside from the ATV tour, the boat ride, and Waimea Canyon, my husband played a couple of rounds of golf, one at Poipu Bay and the other at the new Puakea public course in Lihue, right behind the Kukui Grove shopping center. If I remember correctly, Kal, you used to play here when it was called the Grove, or something like this, no? In any event, my husband liked this course a lot, much moreso than the Wailua public course. On those days he golfed, I usually parked myself at Poipu Bay, looking for and not finding monk seals, but that beach was really too crowded for my tastes. We did go to secluded and gorgeous Mahaulepu Beach one day, which I highly recommend, and also went to Kekaha Beach on the west side for a great sunset. As for restaurants, we went to and can recommend Brick Oven Pizza, Keoki's, Beach House on our anniversary , and Kintaro.

On the north side, I spent a great deal of time at Hanalei Bay, which is always my favorite beach, but even moreso now while the waters are so swimmable and friendly! As mentioned earlier, we did the first 2 miles of the Kalalau Trail to Hanakapiai Beach and back. We decided not to go the extra 2 miles onto the falls because given the fact that my husband had mjor surgery on his neck and vertabrae last fall, we didn't want to press our luck and risk his falling and injuring himself on that part of the hike - it was amazing that he was able to do as well as he did, all things considered!. Restaurants on our 2nd week were the not-to-be-missed Friday night seafood buffet at the Princeville Resort, Hanalei Dolphin, Postcards, Pacific Cafe, and, last but not least --- Taco Tuesdays at Duke's!!! (fish tacos are $2/each, draft beers $2.50). I can assure you all that this will now be a new tradion on future trips! Question for Kal - what's your personal record for scarfing down those babies???

Well, I think my brain is totally mush at this point, so I'll close now. What more can I say - Kauai is just the best, the ultimate paradise, and the aloha spirit remains as strong as ever there. It was the perfect way to celebrate our 25th anniversary. I'll try to figure out a way to post pictures and I'll let you know when I've done that - there will be a lot of them! If anyone has any questions, please feel free to e-mail me at [email protected]. In the meantime, mahalo nui loa, sorry this has gone on so long, but that's just the way it goes...

Oh, and one more thing - thanks to all of you for your suggestions for hiking gear - the shoes were great (Merrell high tops), and the tip on getting the hydration backpacks was a terrific one - that's defintely the way to go! Thanks again, everyone - you really helped!

Margot, I've been following your posts for weeks...My hubby and I leave in 9 days for 3 weeks in Hawaii (4 islands) ending in Kauai. We're taking our golf clubs and are looking for the most scenic (ocean views, waterfalls, etc), not the most difficult golf courses to play - we are not considered "low" handicappers and often take mulligans when we "vacation golf" (not if the course is crowded). We're staying at the Kauai Marriott and understand there is a course associated w/ the hotel there (which means we get a bit of a discount). Do you or your husband recommend the course..if not, what is the most scenic and memorable (not most difficult) golf course there? (We are also spending 6 days on Maui, 5 on the big island and 4 on Oahu in case you have any similar golf suggestions for those). Thanks for all your info - it has helped us to plan our trip!

Welcome back Margot
Now I must take a nap, as reading this, especially the flying part, has exhausted me~

To dolciani, funny you should ask about the golf course at the Marriott, becuase my husband remarked that that one is his favorite of the "big 3" on Kauai (the other 2 being the Poipu Bay and the Prince Course). You can do what he does each year and buy the "Kauai Challenge" package, which allows you to play all 3 for a steep discount. However, in any event, you'll love the course at the Marriott - very scenic, albeit often windy. Have a great time, let us know what you think.

P.S. on restaurants - I forgot to mention Coconuts, where we had a very nice meal, as we had last year when we first tried it. Also - Ono Burger is better than Bubba's, IMHO, although I'm only comparing the veggie burgers between 'em...

BTW, the new countdown starts today, and that is(drum roll)...211 more days until we return to Kauai.

Mahalo,
The Wacky Wahine

Margot,
Thanks for this report--just by reading it, I had some questions answered (for myself) that I had wondered about regarding Kauai in the summer. It all sounds wonderful!!

Margot,
Welcome back. Sounds like you had a great vacation. I am on countdown of 7 days till we leave next Friday for Kauai. Actually, at this time I'll be somewhere over the Pacific. We always go in the Summer and spending hours on Hanalei Beach on a lounge chair is my favorite pastime. We usually sit in the middle of the crescent, then walk to the North end of the beach across the sand bars and then back to the chairs till we decide to head south to the pier. I just love swimming out a hundred yards or so, lying on my back and looking back at the beach with the mountains behind it.

I agree with your husband, love the new PuaKea Golf course, which was Grove Farm, but The Kiele Course at the Marriott does have some lovely views and is always in great shape.

If I'm not mistaken, I heard that the Monk seals are more around toward Kiluea at this time of the year. We saw 1 once at the lighthouse a few summers ago.

well, better go start packing, I wrote more than you.

Anyone interested in talking about Kauai can email me also.

Margot~Welcome back and happy anniversary. Now begins the task of processing your vacation with clients!
And, I thought of you when I read this: go to www.google.com,type in weapons of mass destruction but do not hit enter. Hit the I'm feeling lucky bar. You will get a site that vaguely suggests the web page cannot be displayed. Read carefully. I think you'll get a laugh!

that weapons of mass destuction thing is hysterical. Thanks for the laugh.

Loved the trip report also. Someday I'll get to Hawaii.....

Thanks for that google tip, Pam - VERY funny!!! And thanks for your nice anniversary wishes, as well - it really was very special. Rich, you may be right about the monk seals parking themselves elsewhere at this time of year, because the one monk seal we saw was on our NaPali boat ride, where there was one lying on a deserted beach. In any case, have a blast, and give Hanalei Bay as special "aloha" for me - I miss it already!

Pam,
Just thought I would chime in. the weapons of mass destruction was so funny!

Aloha again - now that I'm back on New Jersey time and the jet lag has worn off, I re-read my report and wanted to add a couple more things. Forgot to mention we ate at La Playita Azul for lunch one day, and although they didn't start out very well with us (15 min. late in opening because "we haven't cooked the rice yet"), and then once they did open, said they were out of chicken and guacamole (we offered to run into the Safeway in the same plaza to get them some avocados, but later on they mysteriously snagged some ripe avocados and, voila...guacamole! However, things settled down and we each ordered burritos, which come in huge portions. By the end of the meal, we were quite satisfied and will definitely return. Also wanted to highly recommend going to the Hanalei Bay Resort for late afternoon cocktails at their Happy Talk lounge - it's a beautiful setting, makes me feel great every time we're there, and, while I'm sure others will respectfully disagree, both my husband and I agree they make the best Mai Tai on the island! And then, there's this beer news - Keoki's serves a new Kona Brewing Company offering called "Lavaman" on draught, and it's super - Keoki's was the only place we saw this being served, and it doesn't appear to be sold in the retail stores, either. One sad closing to report is Bourbon Street, in the Princeville Center - they used to have really good breakfasts there. (However, Ono restaurant in Kapaa still has great breakfasts). Well, that's the latest. If I have anything else to add, you know I will!!! Mahalo!

"Hanalei Bay Resort for late afternoon cocktails at their Happy Talk lounge "

Margot, yes that's a good place to stop but if you do it before 5pm (I think) they won't serve snacks, pretty snotty about it in fact. Their tiger prawn pupu is wonderful, we made a meal of them one evening (they will bring a plate of just them altho' it's not on the menu).

Actually, pspercy, we were at Happy Talk lounge up thru sunset, which is currently 7:15-ish, and they still are serving "pupus" then - we had the buffalo wings. Maybe they've had a change of heart since you were there...

Welcome back, welcome back, welcome back

What a glorious time you all had. So, I see from your new countdown it is only 200 or so days away now..and when is that...I haven't started the countdown as we haven't decided if it will be February or March...there's this one little problem called work!!
Glad to hear your LaPlayita Azul experience turned out ok....that was our favorite place. I read somewhere that they serve cocktails now...is that so?
So what was your absolute favorite thing this trip??

Aloha iceeu2!!! And mahalo for that musical "welcome home"!!! In answer to your question, the countdown translates into a departure date of 2/27. (That fact is singularly responsible for my not needing antidepressants at this juncture of my re-entry back into normal mainland life!) Favorite thing about the trip? Well, for one thing, flying 1st class on the non-stops from Newark to Honolulu was pretty darn nice (except for the continuing silly policy of using plastic knives with the other steel utensils, but then including a double edged razor in the little grooming pack they give everyone in 1st class - go figure!!!). Other than that, I would have to say the Kalalau hike for me was probably the most exhilarating part of the trip, combining two of my favorite things of exercise and beautiful scenery, and the surprise anniversary boat trip around the NaPali was right up there with that experience. But...I think you understand if I say that just being there is enough for me these days! BTW, yes, Playita Azul does serve liquor now, although we did not partake on that occasion. Where will you be staying when you return to Kauai in Feb. or March?

Excellent trip report... and very timely as we recently booked northshore accommodations for next August. We have spent the last 11 Januarys in the Poipu area (with the exception of two recent Big Island December and March trips) but decided to try the lovely Northshore in the summer. (This decision was much applauded by our kids' teachers who really didn't appreciate our pulling our kids out of school for 3 weeks right after Christmas break!) We are thrilled at the thought of doing some hiking on trails that don't look like slick red slippery slides and the thought of sand bars in Hanalei Bay- oh la la! Now the only trick is how to get through a damp grey Pacific Northwest winter without our mid-winter Kauai fix.
Thanks again for a fun report.

Thanks so much for all of your info to everyone. We are going to Kauai the last week of January and have been searching for information. Any tips as to what tours etc we should do with 2 boys aged 11 and 7? Plus we have bookeda condo in Southern Poipu at Manualoha, any comments? Obviously you can tell this is our first time!

Kip, I can relate to the "getting through the winter" problem of waiting 'til summer for Kauai, as that is exactly what we had to do this year, with the Mother of all Bad Winters in the Northeast! Anyhow, you'll appreciate the difference, as we did going in the summer - different perspective, totally. Good luck, hope your winter isn't too hard on you! Imaz, I'm not familiar with the place you're staying, although somehow it, or something that sounds like it, seems familiar...for tours, I'd suggest doing a search of previous topics along these lines, although perhaps Hawaii Movie Tours and/or any of the ATV tours, where they can take a whole family in a huge 4x4 type vehicle through the backroads of Kauai might be a good place to start. Sorry I can't be of more help in answering your questions, but I know you'll fall in love with Kauai as much as the rest of us have!