Mad about Philadelphia

Old Aug 27th, 2000, 10:26 AM
  #1  
Daniel Williams
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Mad about Philadelphia

Hi all!

I just took a day trip to Philadelphia from Baltimore. I've been wanting to go again for quite some time now, to see if I would even consider relocating there. There had been a number of negative postings here in the past, plus when I visited there about a year and a half ago (on a nice December day), I had not been impressed, found the city kind of deserted. I remember thinking I would probably cross it OFF my list, but I just wanted to check again to be sure.

Well boy was I in for a surprise. Philly knocked my socks off. The public transportation seemed excellent (I don't really like driving; by the way, with an Amtrak ticket stub SEPTA is free from 30th St. Station to Suburban Station or Convention Center), the city is so ultimately walkable (one of my biggest pleasures is exploring cities by walking) and very diverse (great people-watching). Also, the biggest shock to me was how VIBRANT the city was...I asked a clerk at a bookstore if the city had become more vibrant the past few years and she said that people had been saying that.

I lived in Montreal for 5 years (94-99) and Europe as a child, and living in Baltimore now, I find that I really miss living in a city that pulsates, where people not only work in the city center, but play there, savouring the diversity and people-energy that only an urban center can bring. Of the cities I'd visited in the United States, only Boston, New York and to a lesser extent DC have this energy I love (in its defence, Baltimore does try with some success) But those cities are very expensive to live in. Philly I discovered has a sense of the energy I love, but with not quite the hefty cost of living price tag of the other cities.

So what did I enjoy doing? I went to the Reading Terminal Market and bought a home-made pretzel from an Amish (maybe Mennonite?) stand. I was blown away by the vast variety of selections at the market. I really appreciated that the Market did not appear to be invaded by major fast-food chains, but seemed more family-run.

I went to Old City and soaked in the American History at Carpenter's Hall and the 2nd US Bank. I went to Penn's Landing and browsed through an African American Cultural expo (pleasant view of the Delaware River from the Landing). Then I walked back along Market St., up to Chinatown on 9th (which seemed to have a decent selection of restaurants/stores), dropped in a store to get a bean curd delicacy that I love and can't find in Baltimore. Then I went down 12th St. to Pine, dropped in a bar, had a Corona and grabbed the train back to Bal'more. (Unlike some cities there were taxis everywhere that one could hail.)

While walking I saw such a wide variety of restaurants (Afghan-Dim Sum-Brazilian (w/ dancing), etc, etc). I felt that if I were to live in Philly, I could explore for years and still find new places to go.

One more thing I really appreciated about Philly was that the city seemed to exude tolerance of others. While there, I saw a wide range of styles/ fashions/ races/ religions/ (open) sexual orientations and from reading the papers I picked up, it appeared that people APPRECIATED this diversity.

Anyhow I hope more people believe the "Ugly Philly" posting than mine, because I don't want rental prices to skyrocket in the city if I decide to move there.

Anyhow I highly recommend Philly for anyone to visit, and a must as a day trip for those living from NY-Washington.

Dan.

 
Old Aug 28th, 2000, 07:00 AM
  #2  
Daniel williams
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Oh yeah I forgot to mention that the 30th St. Station is gorgeous. Worth going to see even if you don't plan on taking the train.
 
Old Aug 28th, 2000, 07:33 AM
  #3  
Joanne
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You're on to our secret! I work in Philly and live in South Jersey suburbs. Everyone in my office of 20 or so lives in Philly- South, Center City West, Northern Liberties, Old City except me and one other person. I'm working on my husband to move into the city when the kids go off to college. Let's hope the prices stay reasonable for another 8 years!
 
Old Aug 28th, 2000, 08:41 AM
  #4  
Daniel Williams
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Hi Joanne--

Yeah I'm onto the secret! You know I was almost hesitant to post this e-mail, not wanting to give away what seems to me like the city I've been searching for all these years.

I'm curious though...Philly seemed like it had gone through a remarkable transformation since I visited last (not even 2 years ago!). Has the city indeed changed to become livelier? Or do you think it's more because when I visited last it was a Sunday in December (although it was a sunny day in the 40s)?

Honestly when I came before it seemed like a sleepy city. THIS trip I felt like I was in a smaller, affordable version of New York, but with enough of the amenities, diversity, liveliness, funky-ness and diversions of big city life to keep me happy. Not to mention the excellent public transit (I don't particularly like to drive), which seemed to be running very regularly on a SATURDAY! Impressive.

Anyhow I had a great time and look forward to taking many more day trips up to the City of Brotherly Love. You're truly blessed to live so close to such a cosmopolitan, fascinating city.

Dan.




 
Old Aug 28th, 2000, 08:41 AM
  #5  
Daniel Williams
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Hi Joanne--

Yeah I'm onto the secret! You know I was almost hesitant to post this e-mail, not wanting to give away what seems to me like the city I've been searching for all these years.

I'm curious though...Philly seemed like it had gone through a remarkable transformation since I visited last (not even 2 years ago!). Has the city indeed changed to become livelier? Or do you think it's more because when I visited last it was a Sunday in December (although it was a sunny day in the 40s)?

Honestly when I came before it seemed like a sleepy city. THIS trip I felt like I was in a smaller, affordable version of New York, but with enough of the amenities, diversity, liveliness, funky-ness and diversions of big city life to keep me happy. Not to mention the excellent public transit (I don't particularly like to drive), which seemed to be running very regularly on a SATURDAY! Impressive.

Anyhow I had a great time and look forward to taking many more day trips up to the City of Brotherly Love. You're truly blessed to live so close to such a cosmopolitan, fascinating city.

Dan.




 
Old Aug 29th, 2000, 12:02 PM
  #6  
Joanne
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To respond to your question about the vibrancy of the city- I do think it has improved a lot in the last few years. Thanks largely to former Mayor Ed Rendell, the city's biggest , I think people who lived there realized what a great place it was and stopped listening to the WC Fields types. Although I do think visiting in the Winter does make a difference- far fewer people out and about.
Like me, you're a walker. That's one of the best things about Philly- it's a very walkable city. I even made it up to the Art Museum (from south border of Center City) on a lunch hour. It was azalea time. If you ever get to Philly in May be sure to visit the azalea garden behind the museum. Glad you had a good visit!
 
Old Aug 30th, 2000, 11:12 AM
  #7  
Daniel Williams
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Thanks Joanne for all your thoughts on your city. Your enthusiasm is contagious and increases my desire to move there. I'm glad at very least that I've discovered another fabulous place to day trip from Baltimore.

Given the "Ugly Philly" thread that ran through here at the time of the convention and the mention of Philly a number of times in "Worst of the Worst", I really wanted to share my genuinely positive experience there. I always say "to each his own" but now I do believe that the nay-sayers are really missing out.

All the best,

Dan.
 
Old Aug 30th, 2000, 11:34 AM
  #8  
tweedy
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I have been going to Philly for years to shop, and let me leave you with just one hint "Franklin Mills" a mile long outlet mecca, (lol) Paul got a beautiful leather jacket originally priced for $360 and we paid $55!!!

There is a Bed Bath and Beyond, Marshalls, Burlington Coat Factory and more than I can list here.

Franklin Mills is just North of Philly.
When you get there buy a discount coupon book. I think it is $3.00 and you will have more than that on just your first purchase.

A few years ago I bought a fur coat (ok I know and I won't buy one again) but the price was $500 and here in NY the same coat was $4,000. That is another example of the price discounts you can find there.

A new addition we found the last time we were there a month or so ago was a new Rainforest Cafe.

Oh yes Philly is a fun city, and worth a look see on alot of levels.
 
Old Aug 31st, 2000, 06:15 AM
  #9  
Daniel Williams
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Tweedy--

So this mall is something special, eh?

I feel like there are many more areas of Philly to explore. One of my co-workers thought I should check out Manayunk, a funky neighborhood north of Phila.

BTW it's interesting to see your comments on another destination; I'm used to seeing you on Bahamas forums (I look forward to staying at the Orange Hill Beach Inn this Xmas/New Years..it's getting closer now.)

All the best, Dan.
 
Old Aug 31st, 2000, 07:10 AM
  #10  
topper
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.
 
Old Sep 1st, 2000, 04:03 PM
  #11  
Lisa
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Hi Daniel,
You must check out Manayunk! I visit my friend quite often and we manage to find a different bar/restaurant every time we go out! Mostly everything to see is right on Main St. There are little shops (a couple big retail stores)and the people are very friendly. Also along the river by Kelly Dr. people rollerblade and jog. Very fun to people watch and get a little exercise!
I live and work in the Philly suburbs and don't get downtown as much as I would like but I have a blast everytime I do get there! I'm glad you had a wonderful time! Come back and enjoy again soon!
 
Old Sep 3rd, 2000, 07:02 PM
  #12  
kiwisparkle
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manayunk is soo fun, always something to do there... philly and its surrounding areas have definitely become a lot more enjoyable recently. we've really gotten our act together recently. i think picking up a copy of the city paper and just paging thru will give you an idea of what to expect-it really is a wonderful place to live, work, play, visit...
 
Old Sep 5th, 2000, 08:37 AM
  #13  
Daniel Williams
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Thanks for your thoughts on Manayunk, Kiwisparkle and Lisa. Main St. Manayunk sounds like somewhere I'll definitely want to check out at some point. You mentioned that there are a lot of small stores there; I like that. I find too many neighborhoods (particularly suburban ones) today have too much of a generic feel about them. Same stores, big name brands. Those small stores with individual touches give places character.

I actually did manage to pick up a City Paper while I was in Philly and definitely saw more things I wanted to do while in town. Italian Market, Rodin Museum, Art Museum; I even saw a few shows I'd like to catch. I'm definitely glad that Philly is as accessible from Baltimore as it is.

Yes, Philly's definitely looking better and better. I know this isn't a relocation forum (hi BJ) but out of curiosity what's the low end in price for a DECENT studio/1 BR apartment in the city (or at least near subway stop 20 minute commute from the city)?
 
Old Sep 5th, 2000, 06:51 PM
  #14  
arjay
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Fun to see this thread..Our own Philly experience is a little irrelevant now, butback somehwere in the 80s, on our first visit there (or mine, the spouse was at the Truman bravura convention performance there in 48!), we found it to be a "find" of a city...even tho it was the first place I'd encountered so many homeless (hadn't been in NYC for a while and the phenomenon hadn't made its way to Chicago yet). Still, we enjoyed the amount of things to be seen, the Frnaklin Museum (? right name?), and walkability. If it declined in the intervening years, sure glad to know it's making its way back....And Daniel..? BUY NOW! Nothing ever goes down!
 
Old Sep 6th, 2000, 02:49 PM
  #15  
Daniel Williams
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Hi Arjay

Glad you're enjoying this thread. I've also been quite pleased with the response and the suggestions people have had. I plan on making a return trip or two this fall on a pleasant day outside.

As for buying now, my top choices of next city to live in are Philadelphia and Montreal... I finish my fellowship here (Baltimore) in a year's time...we'll see how condo prices look at the time.



 
Old Sep 7th, 2000, 03:40 AM
  #16  
Donna
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Just a comment on the post about Franklin Mills Mall. Technically it's not "north of Philly." I live in that area, and we are indeed within the city limits. It's a big city. Franklin Mills is in what's called the "Far Northeast" or the "Great Northeast."

In the 70s, about a block from where FM Mall is now, our former Mayor Rizzo stopped to get gas. As it was being pumped, he rolled down the window, looked around, and said, "Hey, this is nice up here...what's this area called?" The gas pumper had to laugh and respond, "Philadelphia, Mr. Mayor."

If you want all the action that Dan is talking about, you want downtown, which we call "Center City" in Philly.
 
Old Sep 7th, 2000, 04:16 AM
  #17  
elaine
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As a lifelong native, I am enjoying this thread. However, when discussing Philadelphia, I would never, ever mention Franklin Mills as a 'destination' if one is visiting our historic city, filled with art museums, gardens, historic areas, fantastic restaurants, etc. I would perhaps encourage visitors to explore Longwood Gardens, Bucks County, the Main Line area, even the charming village of Skippack. A trip to the Barnes Foundation is worthy a mention. I agree with Donna and Joanne's comments. Just needed to clarify the dreadful Franklin Mills mention.
 
Old Sep 7th, 2000, 06:01 PM
  #18  
Pat
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Although I have been to he sites mentioned above, I admit to also liking the Franklin Mills Mall. But I live in the area, don't think I would go on a visit. However,my sister was in the area for a week while her husband took a class and she and her family visited the King of Prussia Mall at least 3 times. Hey, whatever floats your boat!
 
Old Sep 7th, 2000, 10:02 PM
  #19  
xxxx
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Franklin Mills Mall, no question!
 
Old Sep 14th, 2000, 11:21 AM
  #20  
Kenneth
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Hi Dan,

I agree with all you said. I flew across there in July with my son. We stayed in South Philly, and we both loved it. We spent a lot of time in City Central, and loved The gallery, City Hall and Ben Franklin Museum. The Zoo was something else too - nothing short of brilliant. That is my 2nd visit to Philly, I live in Edinburgh Scotland, and we have nothing to meet the Grandeur of good ole Philadelphia. Your text brought back lovely thoughts, memories and emotions. Thanks Dan

ken

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