LLindaC

0 days in wine country, 4th time in 4 years : Lodi, Healdsburg (Sonoma Valley) Mendocino and Calistoga (Napa Valley) to sip wine, hike, dine and relax,visit old friends, discover new ones. This part of the report covers the trip, I'll review the wineries and wines in a separate report.
Day 1: Arrive in Sacramento, great airport! Drive to Lodi about 4pm, only enough time to visit the new Vino Piazza, a place where small independant wineries can bottle and market their own wines. Housed in an old winery, this place is amazing! Concrete rooms which once held wine are now transformed into tasting rooms with art galleries, gift shops, etc. There are courtyards and a Thai restaurant as well as a room where comedy shows are performed. There are no pictures on the Internet to do this place justice, but it's a must do on weekends! We stayed at the Holiday Inn Express, nice basic hotel beside the interstate and used points for a free night. Dined at Taste of Thai- a hole in the wall place filled with locals and delicious food. Corkage fee $5, we brought 2002 Dasarte Blend from local Pasos Vineyards.
Day 2reakfast (to die for) the next morning at the fun Michael David winery. You have to do big breakfasts for serious wine tasting days! Following a tasting, we visited Van Ruiten, then Borra where I was shopping for art. We bought some great chocolate sauce here. Next, Harmony Wynelands to visit the Hartzells, enjoy his theatre organ "concert" and play a few tunes on the piano. Incredible place.We then were directed to Berghold and their magbnificent tasting room. The walls are huge wooden facades from the 1800's Penn-Dutch country. There is a fireplace and a concert grand piano on an Oriental rug in the center of the room. Antiques, art pieces are displayed and there are great gifts to purchase as well. I kept looking around asking myself if we truly were in Lodi! The Berghold's were so friendly and treated us to a tour, a bottle of Cab from his library collection and I ended up playing and singing a duet with their son's girlfriend, Julia, who is classically trained. You MUST see this place. We then went for a private tasting at Klinker Brick, which makes our fav Zin. Loads of fun, owner Steve Felten never stops smiling. Luckily we got to try and buy some Old Ghost, and he threw the rest of our bottle in as part of the deal! Yum! We drove to Healdsburg later, but stopped in Sonoma for an encore dinner at the Ledson Hotel. They no longer serve the tapas-style menu, but our dinner was fabulous and Simon at the piano was amazing. Imagine a restaurant where diners applaud after every number!
Day 3: Healdsburg, stay at Best Western Dry Creek. Basic hotel, very good price. Walk a mile to town, breakfast at Center St Cafe, funky place with 50's decor and great breakfast. We want to visit Alexander Valley today, as we ran out of time last year. Start at Sausal, very nice. Next, we drive the rocky road to Johnson's . A big concrete barn with the only other theatre organ of it's kind besides Harmony's. It's played by a computer program and is a hoot. June was pouring, we loved her stories. Across the road, we stopped at Alexander Valley Vineyards to purchase some 2002 Cyrus for sharing in the hot tub later in trip. Tradition. Next was Hanna, where Jean treated us to a lovely tasting in a gorgeous room. By now, it was pretty wet and we couldn't enjoy sitting under the arbors or picnic spots. The weather had been bad since January, and they weren't happy about it. Many mud slides on the roads and lots of vines under water, what a mess! We still managed to see Fieldstone- a cool place built in the hill where affable Nancy gave us a great tasting and we talked horses. Next was White Oak- a lovely winery with nice grounds. On to Robert Young (not the actor) a pretty place with a colonial mansion. Robert's family farmed prunes in the 1800's- he is strong at 87, but daughter Joann was working that day. Jeff Noel poured for us- he's a doll! Next, Murphy-Goode where Eva welcomed us.
Dinner tonight was 3rd trip to Willi's Seafood in Healdsburg, always fun, tapas-style dining was superb.
Day 4: We get a pass from hotel to work out at Healdsburg Health club, cause it's too rainy to walk. Great place and free to hotel guests. Grab a tuna sandwich at Oakville Grocery- it's yummy as always. We have to eat in car, though. Today, tasting rooms on the square.First stop Rosenblum, an eternal favorite. Jean was fun, we had a great time here. Next, Camellia Cellars where Allison was so sweet. She worked for Herb Alpert once, we enjoyed talking about music.We stayed at their B&B one time and were sad to hear that Del had died the week before. Our condolences to the family. Next door was Sapphire Hill where owner, Tim, wowed us with some great wine and then took us for a barrel sample. So good, we bought futures. Wilson Winery is winning all sorts of awards and this was a second visit. Owner Diane was present, so we really enjoyed a great tasting. Down the road is a small complex with several wineries. First, Papapietro-Perry where Bruce Perry proved to us that he deserves the good press! Amphora, for a second visit to infamous Rick Hutchison, who we enjoyed on our first trip 4 years ago. He is as much fun as ever and we were thrilled to see him doing so well and producing such great wine. We ordered futures back then and did so again. Last stop was Dutcher Crossing, a rather new winery but recommended by Diane Wilson, and it was great.
Time to pack it up and head for Mendocino. I'm tired of hotels and am looking forward to some luxury! We stop in the Anderson Valley in the tiny town of Philo to eat at Libby's- authentic Mexican family run restaurant that is packed with locals and is always excellent.
Day 5: Mendocino, we are in the Barn Studio at the MacCallum House. Recently renovated, it's incredible. Huge beams, fireplace, hot tub on deck, sauna. I got this property on luxurylink.com and it was a great deal. After a terrific breakfast in the lovely Inn, we walk the Headlands Park and town. Not much has changed here, except that we now can use our cell phones! The coffee shop has changed hands and is now Moody's. They still have Internet access here, but you must pay a small fee. Later, we stroll the town- oh yes, we have a rainbow and sunshine! We make a stop at Mendo Wine Co. which used to be Fetzer. We remember Bob, where we enjoy a lively tasting that turns into a spill fest. Funny. Later, we drive to the incredible Pacific Star Winery north of Ft Bragg. We got to meet Sally, the owner and winemaker and sat on her gorgeous cliff side property spotting whales in the distance, having brie on crackers and enjoying the sun. We had dinner that night at the Inn, where I had a rather disappointing veggie lasagna and my husband had a filet. At three in the morning , he woke up not feeling great.
Day 6: Went to breakfast, but Rick had pancakes cause his stomach is a little queasy. My breakfast was great, again. After a short walk through town in the sunshine, we go back to our room, where Rick is now having pain and chills. No hiking today.The next 7 hours we spend at Ft Bragg Hospital in the ER where he's diagnosed with food poisoning. Nice staff! He's on liquid diet and we get home close to 7 pm, exhausted. I walk across to Mendo Cafe and have a great Thai burrito with shrimp. Poor Rick.
Day 7: I avoid breakfast and we walk through town doing a bit of shopping. We check out of this wonderful place and drive to Calistoga through Anderson Valley. First, Rick has soup at Mendo Cafe and I have Bean Burrito- yum! Liquid diet on back burner, we stop to taste at Claudia Springs. Dave is a great host- they also sample Harmonique's wines.We had a second visit at Handley Cellars with Rainbow. We MUST stop at Lazy Creek- it's a simple barn tasting of some great Pinot. Hard to find, difficult driveway but owner Josh poured for us and another couple and it was a blast. Last stop Navarro. We've done most wineries around here, this was one that needed a repeat visit. Kevin gave us a good tasting. On to Napa Valley, we decide to stop in Geyserville for soup, but find Hoffman House is closed for dinner. That leaves Santi, and it's crowded with guests from Francis Coppola's birthday party. We are seated at the bar and Rick's diet's out the window. We feast on great food and winemaker Joe Ramazzotti is pouring his blend for guests and we have way too much fun. We get to Calistoga's Foothill House late and it's pouring ! The room (Evergreen Suite) is heavenly and owner Darla is charming.
Day 8: Darla brings breakfast to our room-it's fantastic! We have a fireplace, a deck with waterfall, a canopy bed. Each night we get cookies and sherry. Her happy hour is a yummy spread and a few wines. She gave us many tips about the area. We aren't huge Napa fans (crowds, traffic) but Calistoga still has charm and we manbage to find many small places and great wines. Rick's tummy is still not great, but we go tasting anyway.Rombauer is our first stop, cause their Zin's one of our favorite. It's a zoo in there, a limo with a tipsy bachelorette party and a large crowd, but John Rosa takes time with us and we have a great tasting. Frank Family is next, also crowded, but had a great red tasting with Rick in the back. Dutch Henry is next- a barn with wild man Dennis. The two Airedales are great hosts, and we laughed a lot but learned a lot here. Cuvaison Estate had a small room on hillside where Brady wowed us with the Zin. Clos Pegase beckoned with it's Joan Miro statue in the front, but one stop inside made us turn around. Too Disney! Crowds, limos, etc. It was pretty though and the art was spectacular. Twomey was next out of curiosity. They do only Merlot, and they are quite high. Good, but worth it? Your call. Bennett Lane next where Rob the winemaker joined us. The Maximus made us cry, we later had it for dinner.Vincent Arroyo was next, where the Black Lab chases tennis balls over the barrels. Really fun! Petite Syrahs rock here. Dinner tonight was at Stomp (Calistoga), which was quite good. Great service, small portions of good food as it should be! We had fish prepared perfectly. Rick's belly is still tense, but he's doing better.
Day 9: Darla's French Toast ramekin and berries soaked in Grand Marnier on the side. She is killing me. Today, we start at Calistoga Cellars where Pat hit us with huge reds and we met another KY native and had some laughs. Summers was next and we got a great half price Cab. Next stop was a great one- Zahlita where owner Laura was pouring great wines and where her dog Zoe was trying to be the perfect hostess. She understood what we liked and made good choices for our final stops. Cliff Lede was a fun stop where avid cyclist Paul impressed us with great wines. Next, William Harrison, a winery with great history and affable Bruce told us all the stories about the family and shared pictures, books and history. They have a huge stuffed bear here and 2 wild boars on the wall! Baldacci Family Vineyards was empty and host Annie took us out to the vines and explained the budding process. On to Steltzner where Eric poured some great Claret. Last (finally!) was Regusci where Linda Jean was terrific and the Stags Leap district Cabs had a great price.
Day 10- beautiful drive from Napa to SAC on 128, enjoying scenery and avoiding mud slides. Darla brought us coffee at the crack of dawn, plus a few danish, juice and fruit. She helped us arrange shipping on 2 cases of wine as well. Great lady, great place to stay!

Total: 48 tasting rooms, one Emergency room. No hiking, a lot of rain, a few good walks, a lot of great food and wonderful people. Wine snobs, pretentious people? Not on this trip, none at all. Oh, and Southwest is a great airline and a joy to fly. Bye CA, hope you get some sun soon!
Winery Reports: We drink reds and only sipped a few whites. We often shared tastes and learned how to sip and pour! Of course, some things are too darn good to waste.

Good, Very Good, EXC
LODI

(1-5 at at Vino Piazza
1.Mokelumne Oaks- Cuvee
2. Stama- Gus, Greek winemaker. Great prices. Best were Zin and Shiraz
3. Boitano- reds were too sweet. Petite Syrah and Sangiovese good
4. Old Lockeford- 2004 Nebbiolo very good $16, 2004 Zin good , same price
5.Pasos- Zin and Cab good, 2002 Dastarte ($40) EXC

6. Michael David- 2001 Cab $18 Good, 2003 Earthquake Cab $ 28VG , 2004 Earthquake Zin EXC, 2004 Earthquake Petite $28 VG
2003 6th Sense Syrah $17 EXC
7. Van Ruiten- 2003 Petite Syrah $18 EXC, 2002 Old Vine Zin $18, VG
8. Borra- 2004 Chardonnay $16 VG, 2003 Merlot $16 VG, 2003 Fusion $16 VG, Fusion Chocolte Sauce-$8, but priceless!
9 .Harmony Wynelands- ALL EXC ratings.2002 Pinot Noir $28, 2003 and 2004 Old Vine Zin $18, 2005 Zinsation ,2004 Alicante Bouchet $25 EXC PLUS
10. Klinker Brick- Syrah, VG, 2004 Zin EXC, 2003 Old Ghost Zin $35 EXC PLUS! You can't buy a lot of this and you can't find it many places, but it's oh so good.
11. Berghold- my husband lost his notes. Very beautiful winery and exquisite wines. This place is awesome and the wines are all estate grown and divine. DO NOT miss this stop!

Sonoma

1. Sausal- 2003 FCentury Vines Zin $ 30 EXC, 2002 Estate Cab $30 VG, 2004 Sangiovese VG $20
2. Johnson's Family Winery- 2003 zin EXC Plus $35, 2003 Cab EXC Plus $40
3. Alexander Valley Vineyards- 2001 Cyrus VG, 2002 Cyrus EXC
4. Hanna Winery- 2003 Cab $30 EXC, 2001 Reserve Zin VG $42, 2002 Bismark Ranch Zin $51 EXC plus wowowowo
5. Fieldstone Winery- 2001 Sangiovese- $18 plus 25 % off. EXC PLUS!, 2002 Merlot VG
6. White Oak Vineyard- 2002 Merlot EXC PLUS $ 24, 2002 Cab Napa $26 EXC, 2003 Syrah EXC PLUS$25 Wow, what a stop!GREAT wines
7. Robert Young Estate-my husband lost the notes. DRAT. They havev GREAT WINE
8. Murphy-Goode - 2003 Snake Eyes Zin $35 EXC, 2003 ALL In Blend $45 EXC, 2002 Ellis ranch Cab $ 35 EXC
9. Rosenblum- 2003 Lyon's Reserve Zin $40 EXC, 2004 Richard Sauret Zin $22 EXC, 2004 SF Appelation Zin $ 18 Good, 2004 Pickett Rd. Syrah $28 EXC, Desiree dessert wine (with chocolate) EXC PLUS
10. Camellia Cellars- 2004 Sangiovse$ 25,VG, 2004 San $25EXC, 2003 Diamo Grazie $ 44 EXC, 2002 Petite Syrah Rafenelli 3001 $30 VG, 2001 VG $32, 2004 Syrah $32 EXC
11. Sapphire Hill- 2002 Old Vine Zin $25 V G, 2003 OV Winberrie Russian River $31, EXC, 2003 and 2002 Sapphire Hille Pinot Russian River $38 EXC, 2003 Estate Syrah $28 EXC PLUS
12. Wilson- 2000 Cab Sydney $32 VG, 200019 Merlot Sydney $ 19 VG, 2001 Syrah Dorothy's $28 VG, 2002 Zin Carl's $ 25 EXC, 2002 Zin Sawyers $25 exc, 2002 AND 2003 $38 EXC PLUS. These are such incredible wines!!
13. Papapietro- Perry- 2204 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast $49 EXC, 2004 Pinot Russian River Valley $ 45 EXC, 2004 same as above, Elsbbree Vineyards EXC this winery makes kick a@@ Pinots!
14. Amphora- 2003 Syrah $30 EXC so is the 2003 Cab Jacob's Ridge $45. Barrel tasting was EXC on Dry Creek Valley Block 4 $65 and 2005 Petite Sirah Dry Creek $ 33
15. Dutcher Crossing- 2004 Maple Zin $34 EXC, 2003 Proprietor's Reserve Cab 425 EXC, 2003 Nevins Cab Reserve $ 34 EXC



Mendociono

16. Mendo Wine Co.- not as good as Fetzer. Only standout was the Coro 2002 and 2003 blends.
17. Pacific Star- still beautiful and incredible. 2003 Reserve Zin EXC, Dad's Daily Red. GREAT! We lost our tasting notes, but joined the wine club! They are that good. My vote for the most beautiful winery in the WORLD.
18. Claudia Springs- best looking male working in a tasting room. ( Dave) Great 2003 Vassar Zin.
19. Handley Cellars- 2003 Pinot Noir. EXC
20.Lazy Creek- a GREAT stop! Anderson Vsllet Pinot ( new release) $18 VG. 2004 Pinot $ 40 EXC Plus GET IT NOW!
21. Navarro 2003 Pinot Noir Deep End $44 EXC, 2003 Petite Villages $16 EXC, 2003 Zin Old Vine $25

Napa

22. Rombauer- 2002 Merlot Select $70 EXC, 2003 Zin Napa $28 EXC, 2002 Zin Napa $40 EXC PLUS almost gone
23. Frank Family 2004 Zin Napa $35 EXC, 2001 Cab Napa $40 EXC (91 in Wine Spectator), 2004 Pinot Reserve $55 EXC
24. Dutch Henry- Chardonnay 2003 Los Carneros $26 VG, 2005 Pinot VG, 2001 Cab Napa Estate $44 EXC, 2000 Cab Napa Reserve $58 EXC PLUS
25. Cuvaison- 2003 Chardonnay $35 EXC, 2004 Pinot Noir Estate $48 EXC, 2003 Syrah Carneros $28 VG, 2001 Zin Larkmead Ln $28 EXC PLUS, 2002 Cab Mt. Veeder $ 45 EXC
26. Clos Pegase- great art, too crowded to taste - avoid "Disney" wineries
27. Twomey- 2002 Merlot Napa $65 EXC, 2000 Merlot Napa $75 EXC..nice place, only do Merlot but too high!
28. Bennett Lane- 2003 Maximus $28 EXC, 2002 Maximus $32 EXC PLUS (Wine Spectator rated #1 top value Cab in Napa 05), 2002 Cab $55 EXC
29. Vincent Arroyo- 2004 Petite Syrah $32 EXC, 2003 Petite Reserve $45 EXC, 2004 Petite Rattlesnake $50 EXC PLUS (sold out)
30. Calistoga Cellars 2002 Zin $30 EXC, 2003 Zin $22 EXC, 2003 Merlot $26, EXC, 2002 Cab $30 EXC. Met a wine store owner here who was blown away by the wines.
31. Summers 2002 Zin Russian River $20 VG, 2003 Merlot Russian River $24 VG, 2002 Cab Napa $46 on sale for half VG
32. Zahlita- 2003 Zin Dry Creek $20 VG, 2002 Cab Conn Valley $33 EXC, 2002 Cab Beckstoffer $48 EXC PLUS
33. Cliff Lede- 2003 Chardonnay $28 VG, 2003 Claret Stag's Leap $35 EXC, 2003 Syrah Napa $28 VG, 2003 Petite Syrah $28 EXC, 2003 Cab Dr Crane $48 EXC PLUS
34. Wm. Harrison2002 Cab Franc $40 EXC, 2002Cab Estate $45 EXC, 2002 Cab Reserve 475 EXC PLUS.
35 Baldacci- 2004 Pinot Noir Carneros $27 EXC, 2001 Cab Stag's Leap $44 EXC, 2002 Cab Stag's Leap EXC PLUS
36.Steltzner- 2003 Claret $18 EXC, 2002 Merlot Stag's Leap $26 Good, 2003 Cab Stag's Leap $36 EXC
37. Regusci- 2004 Chardonnay Yountville $28 Good, 2002 Merlot Stag's Leap $40, 2003 Cab Stag's Leap $48 EXC PLUS, 2002 Cab Stag's Leap $22 VG

Little_Man

thanks for all this work! My, I never would have survived all that wine !

If I might make a small suggestion for next time, indenting and or doublespacing between paragraphs would make your info much easier to digest!

Thank you.

LLindaC

Frankie, I DID have help, lol! Sorry about the format, cut and paste from Notepad doesn't do too well.

bat

Linda:
Thanks so much. I will be printing this and studying it for a fothcoming trip.

What days of the week were you in Napa? I am wondering if it has gotten that bad even on weekdays in April.

LLindaC

Unfortunately we were in Napa on the weekend. Sunday wasn't as bad as Saturday which was pretty bad even well off-season. Saturday attracts lots of folks who drive a couple hours to spend the day. I always prefer to go Mon-Th, but we had to use our auction room at that time. I have 3 other trip reports on wine trips from the past; I think I need a web page dedicated to all of them. Many of our favorites are in the Dry Creek and Russian River Valleys, but we only revisited a few places.

bat

Thanks for the info. We will be in Napa on weekdays--but in June so who knows. Any wineries from past trips that now in hindsight you wish that you had included?

Austin

Great report. Perfect for this "WINO"! (woman in need of sauvignon...)

LLindaC

Austin, mine might read Sangiovese instead! Bat, we did the whole tourist thing first trip. Luckily, first week in April, no crowds 4 yrs ago. We meandered along 128 and popped in every place...had some good wines, but attitudes. When we went to Sonoma we discovered heaven. The next trips were only to Sonoma and other wine areas. This trip, we decided to revisit Calistoga and do small wineries in Napa. Good call. It's expensive and hard to be tiny in Sonoma. If you've owned the land and sell lots of grapes, you have an advantage. But no, I don't regret learning the hard way, but you will waste a great experience by visiting the huge, touristy wineries. What a zoo! The people who pour there are not passionate about their wines. You need to seek out small family and estate wineries who do limited productions. You won't hear about them as you would Beringer, Sutter Home or Coppola, etc and for good reason. Why do people visit wine country and go to the touristy places when they can get a real feel and authentic experience by driving a few miles and doing a bit more research? I don't know. I guess these are the same people who think that Daytona is Florida and Disney World is a dream vacation.

Austin

Linda, we loved Sonoma too - especially those smaller wineries. We can't wait to return!

Austin

Linda, next time you visit Sonoma, you might try our favorite place to stay on the Russian river www.springhillcabin.com Simply amazing place.

jet519

Thank you LLindaC, perfect timing. I am going to visit one of my dearest friends who lives in Placerville. We are both musicians/ pianists/ music teachers and we were planning to go to Lodi for the first time because she has been hearing so many good things about it. We always do El Dorado and Amador when I go there as well. We are also going to spend a couple of days and nights in Sonoma and I already have reservations at the Best Western.

I copied your whole trip report into a word file so I can take it for reference. Thank you very much for all of the details.

LLindaC

Jet, make sure you play at both those places I mentioned! Harmony has a piano and a theatre organ. By the way, we were searching for the Thai restaurant we first went to close to our shopping center. It has moved to the Vino Piazza, so you might want to make reservations. But do not miss Michael David's in the morning. The breakfasts are amazing! Austin, that place looks fabulous. We've rented cabins often and love it. I have it earmarked for next year! Here's one of our favorite in Mendocino: http://www.oceanfrontmagic.com/cc.lasso

LLindaC

topping for the people on the Niebaum thread

bat

thanks linda

beanweb24

selfishly topping

LLindaC

topping for keli

LLindaC

topping

razzledazzle

ttt for ghostdog!

razzledazzle

sorry, I meant ttt for crashdog1

R5

LLindaC

topping for winehelp