Weke - I am the same age as your husband and still work out - but can't come close to getting in the shape and haveing the speed/reflexes I had when I was an active Martial Artist (Karate, Judo/Jijitsu) in my 40's, nor would I attack a skiing downhill course at 60 mph like we used to do in our 30's. And don't even talk about what it took to play college athletics.

And I have body surfed in some fairly good size waves - both in Hawaii and California - but for board surfing the really big waves - and since you want some surfing knowledge - here it is.

Over the years - I have met a few big wave surfers - and any number of wannabes. Really - mostly wanabes. And I truly admire the guys who conquer those 40 foot plus monsters - but still think there comes a time when you hang it up.

This includes my saying hello years ago at a party - to a couple of guys who had successfully challenged the huge surf at Waimea on Oahu (where a friend of mine has lived for 40 years) - and also hearing many big wave stories, going all the way back to the former San Diegan/La Jollan - Butch Van Artsdalen - who died trying to rescue somebody off the North Shore. http://files.legendarysurfers.com/su...ds/lsc214.html and a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9Dyc5e8bJs

About 8 years ago - also met a local on Maui - who had successfully surfed big waves at Jaws - both paddling in and later - using a jet ski. He wasn't a big guy either - not a Laird Hamilton type by any means - and he said each time he came back - he kissed the sand and swore it would be his last time going out.

He was getting into his late 30's - I seem to remember 37? - and said he didn't go out as much any more - or in as big of a surf - but he still wanted that last - super exhilarating ride. He even said if he didn't make it back - so be it - that's the way he wanted to go.

Here in California - knew a couple guys who had surfed both Todos Santos - off Ensenada - (pics - http://tinyurl.com/b6p9sqz ) where they get big surf - and also at Mavericks - up by Santa Cruz. They were also little guys - and said they trained carrying rocks under water to extend their breathing capacity.

They too thought they were coming toward the end of their big surf time - and were not much over 40, if that. Part of the reason was they said they really had to train hard if they were going to challenge the big stuff, and as you get older - you lose some of that desire to train.

FYI - here are some other Big Wave spots in the world. http://www.extremehorizon.com/surf-shop/big_waves.html

Actually - Todos Santos is closer to Cabo. There is another place off Ensenada that gets pretty big surf, but not like Todos Santos.

Once in as while - Swamis here in San Diego gets 20 plus footers - but nothing like the other big wave places.

My double bad. Todos Santos is just down the coast off Ensenada. There is another fairly big wave place down by Cabo.

Oh Lord.

RESPECT!!!!!!!!

I posted a beautiful eulogy written by a fellow surfer to a great waterman who caught his last wave. He was not out trying to catch the 90ft wave. He was out catching a good wave on an average day, when the surf was up.

RESPECT.....

It was a nice eulogy - but the surf was not averaqe:

"KFD’s Air 1 was dispatched and spotted the body about 200 yards off shore, at roughly 6:30 p.m. Lifeguards recovered the body via Jet Ski and returned the victim to shore, where he was pronounced dead. Kaua‘i’s north and west facing shores were in a high surf warning at the time the drowning took place."

And from the eulogy:

"However his passing on Saturday Feb. 9, while surfing deep Hanalei in some of the most treacherous and yet rewarding winter waves brought him closer to where he belonged. Forever. I will miss the quiet laughter in his voice."

o. m. g.

More on Rick

http://thegardenisland.com/news/loca...9bb2963f4.html

and ocean safety concerns:

http://thegardenisland.com/news/loca...9bb2963f4.html

we spoke a couple days before his passing about his healing arm from his dog and his love of his religion. he lived a few doors down from my home. although i'm not a jehovahs witness, it was always my great privilege to speak with Rick and his friend as they walked through our neighborhood in Kilauea... ...he was such a sweet man...lived a glorious life...ALWAYS pleasant in the lineup and he Charged!he had just purchased a few new channel island boards from hanalei surf to try and upgrade his quiver(no dis to papa sau)... The day he passed was nothing unusual for us all, although big... chris the life guard on the jet ski had called it a day. usually, Pico comes in and snags us when we eat crap on a set and takes us to our boards for paddle back out. Rick may have had a chance had the lifeguards witnessed his hold down. Paddle out at 4:30 tomorrow tuesday feb 20 in his honor... come and join if on island. although he is forever surfing the best waves in the spiritual realm, it tears us up that such a nice man should pass even though doing what he absolutely loved...a hui ho Rick

He sounds like a great guy. What a loss for the community and his family.

tomsd, do you ever read the Ocean Magazine? You probably have but if not you might want to pick up a copy (I get them at El Pescador in La Jolla) or check out online. They do a lot of stories on surfing legends and surfing history.

http://www.theoceanmag.com/The_Ocean_Magazine.html

nana: Like Ocean magazine and read it when I can. Also a big fan of Surfing mag - and the latest edition (April?) - had a great story on the history of surfing the North Shore of Oahu. Actually - believe it's called The North Shore Issue. http://www.oceanmagazine.org/ and http://www.surfingmagazine.com/

Always wanted to see the Pipe in full curl - or the huge surf at Waimea - but so far - have only been lucky enough to see nicely formed 8 to 10 footers at Sunset (measured Hawaiian style - back of the wave) - and the locals were ripping 'em.

Here's the actual cover of April Surfing:

http://www.surfingmagazine.com/magaz...fing-magazine/

super, and thanks tom.
I'll have to get that Surfing Issue. My brother lived and surfed on the North Shore back in the 70's and lived across the street from Pipeline. He remembers Eddie Akau and a lot of the legends from back then. He now lives and still surfs in Australia (on the Gold Coast). I'm sure the article will bring back lots of memories.

Tom, Just checked out the Ocean magazine you posted. that is a different one. The one I am refering to is published locally in Encinitas I believe.

nana and tom, could you take this conversation to a new thread please

kstyle, hoping to catch the paddle out here on the east coast via hanalei webcam, will you be there? Toss a blossom for me please.

seriously lookin glass?

yes, very seriously

it appears there is a memorial going on at the pier as I type, before the paddle out.

this thread is about ocean safety in kauai

my point is you don't need to be rude