Jubilada's weekend escape to outer Cape Cod
May 1st, 2011, 11:35 AM
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Jubilada's weekend escape to outer Cape Cod
Needing to see the sea and to check out the rental we found online for our upcomming September two weeks in Truro, we set out for a brief , much needed weekend jaunt, about a 4 hour trip for us. We were spurred on by finding a real deal at TopMast, a motel ( we got an efficiency room) right on the beach in north Truro for $158 for two nights on this their opening weekend of the season. The room is very basic with a very comfortable bed, sliders opening directly onto the beach with views of Provincetown Harbor and use of the very nice indoor pool and fitness center ( which is open to the public year round for a fee).
We arrived friday afternoon to a glorious day, ate a lobster roll and walked the beach. It was glorious. We also read aloud to each other from Mark Kurlansky's "Cod", which is a fascinating history of cod and its place in several cultures, the Basque and the Pilgrims in particular. It was a great setting for this book, as , of course, Cape Cod figures prominently in it.
We went out to dinner in Provincertown at Napi's, a favorite from many years ago which has had a recent resurgence. We had great meals, mine Santa Fe style shrimp and my partner scallops provencale. We had planned on boulliabaise, but were taken with these dishes and were pleased with our choices. After dinner we went for a swim and hot tub, more reading, peering at the ocean and early to bed.
Saturday we indulged our new favorite cape breakfast: cafe au lait andcroissants and brioche form the excellent PB Boulangerie , taken out and eaten on White Crest, an ocean beach in Wellfleet. We ate , watched young men parasailing and generally adored the ocean. Sated, we went to check out the house in Truro. For those of you who know this area, it overlooks Mill Pond, a tidal Pond one block from Pamet Harbour, my absolutely most favorite spot on the cape and . The house seems gorgeous from what we could see peering in the windows, so we are pleased with our choice and the location is perfect for us. We hung around watching boats and birds before heading back to our beach to while away the day walking, reading, walking reading.
Mid afternoon we looked out over the bay and could see a pod of five or six whales swimming and blowing. WOW!
We met friend for an early dinner at the new hotspot in Provincetown, Ten Tables, sister to a restaurant in Cambridge. It is a farm to table place, quite beautiful. A couple of the dishes were wonderful, particularly a spring onion soup of vidalias and ramps and the chef's signature dish of shrimp and grits with chorizo and a poached egg, but generally we were way underwhelmed. Some of the food was cold, they were condescending about our saying so, and my ricotta cavatelli with spring veggies was tiny and and jamon serrano was very small and not that great, though it was wonderful to have fresh english peas. I will not return.
After dinner we went to Herring Cove to watch the sunset, which was spectacular, and there were more whales, the blowing against the orange, pink and purple sky! What a huge treat to see. Another early night, breakfast ( at which we had vouchers from our hotel) and after another swim we began heading home . we felt like we had been gone a long time ( in a good way), and it was much Springier at home when we came back than 48 hours before when we left.
We arrived friday afternoon to a glorious day, ate a lobster roll and walked the beach. It was glorious. We also read aloud to each other from Mark Kurlansky's "Cod", which is a fascinating history of cod and its place in several cultures, the Basque and the Pilgrims in particular. It was a great setting for this book, as , of course, Cape Cod figures prominently in it.
We went out to dinner in Provincertown at Napi's, a favorite from many years ago which has had a recent resurgence. We had great meals, mine Santa Fe style shrimp and my partner scallops provencale. We had planned on boulliabaise, but were taken with these dishes and were pleased with our choices. After dinner we went for a swim and hot tub, more reading, peering at the ocean and early to bed.
Saturday we indulged our new favorite cape breakfast: cafe au lait andcroissants and brioche form the excellent PB Boulangerie , taken out and eaten on White Crest, an ocean beach in Wellfleet. We ate , watched young men parasailing and generally adored the ocean. Sated, we went to check out the house in Truro. For those of you who know this area, it overlooks Mill Pond, a tidal Pond one block from Pamet Harbour, my absolutely most favorite spot on the cape and . The house seems gorgeous from what we could see peering in the windows, so we are pleased with our choice and the location is perfect for us. We hung around watching boats and birds before heading back to our beach to while away the day walking, reading, walking reading.
Mid afternoon we looked out over the bay and could see a pod of five or six whales swimming and blowing. WOW!
We met friend for an early dinner at the new hotspot in Provincetown, Ten Tables, sister to a restaurant in Cambridge. It is a farm to table place, quite beautiful. A couple of the dishes were wonderful, particularly a spring onion soup of vidalias and ramps and the chef's signature dish of shrimp and grits with chorizo and a poached egg, but generally we were way underwhelmed. Some of the food was cold, they were condescending about our saying so, and my ricotta cavatelli with spring veggies was tiny and and jamon serrano was very small and not that great, though it was wonderful to have fresh english peas. I will not return.
After dinner we went to Herring Cove to watch the sunset, which was spectacular, and there were more whales, the blowing against the orange, pink and purple sky! What a huge treat to see. Another early night, breakfast ( at which we had vouchers from our hotel) and after another swim we began heading home . we felt like we had been gone a long time ( in a good way), and it was much Springier at home when we came back than 48 hours before when we left.
May 1st, 2011, 12:56 PM
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Sounds delightful, jubilada!
I love the Cape - all of it. We used to have a house in South Harwich - sold it a long time ago and began to use the saved money to travel at least twice a year to Europe. I miss the Cape so we go once or twice a year for a long weekend.
I love the Cape - all of it. We used to have a house in South Harwich - sold it a long time ago and began to use the saved money to travel at least twice a year to Europe. I miss the Cape so we go once or twice a year for a long weekend.
May 1st, 2011, 01:16 PM
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Someday we'll get to the cape, which seems very foreign to me. I grew up in delaware and pennsyvania and the beach was rehoboth beach and the jersey shore, respectively. I think lewes del may be a cheap guy's cape cod.
May 1st, 2011, 01:24 PM
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jubilada,
You were right down the street from my cottage. Wish we were down there this weekend, it sounds perfect.
Give us a shout when you come up in Sept., there's a group of us Fodorites who GTG on Cape once and awhile.
Heard similar reviews from my foodie friends about Ten Tables. It's right next to Bubalas - no?
You were right down the street from my cottage. Wish we were down there this weekend, it sounds perfect.
Give us a shout when you come up in Sept., there's a group of us Fodorites who GTG on Cape once and awhile.
Heard similar reviews from my foodie friends about Ten Tables. It's right next to Bubalas - no?
May 1st, 2011, 02:01 PM
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Hi Jubilada,
The right whales have been in Cape Cod Bay for the last few weeks, and they are magnificent!
Glad you found PB;s- get there for dinner, but realize you must make a reservation maybe two weeks in advance!
This past week they're opening the deck, if you order a luncheon sandwich or pastry, and you can eat there, -and brunch is on Sundays/.
Try Front Street, and the Mews when you're here during the summer. And come up to Wellfleet Saturday evenings, to wander the art galleries, with their wine and goodies!
I think ten tables just opened, and are having a few problems. Too many good restaurants, and hopefuly they'll iron out the kinks.
The right whales have been in Cape Cod Bay for the last few weeks, and they are magnificent!
Glad you found PB;s- get there for dinner, but realize you must make a reservation maybe two weeks in advance!
This past week they're opening the deck, if you order a luncheon sandwich or pastry, and you can eat there, -and brunch is on Sundays/.
Try Front Street, and the Mews when you're here during the summer. And come up to Wellfleet Saturday evenings, to wander the art galleries, with their wine and goodies!
I think ten tables just opened, and are having a few problems. Too many good restaurants, and hopefuly they'll iron out the kinks.
May 1st, 2011, 02:40 PM
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cybor: no, Ten Tables is on Bradford Street near Standish.
Capecodshanty: was very unimpressed with PB's lunch last year so am not inclined for dinner. Is it actually good? They had tables open last night.The attitude is way too much for me, even sometimes at the bakery. I like Front Street and the Mews, but we stay away from the cape in summer, first it is wonderful at home then and hate the crowds. We reappear mid sept. Have spent many hours wandering the wellfleet galleries happily,used to go to Wellfleet every summer and stay near Indian Neck, and also eating at Mac's Shack, one of my two favorite eateries. , along with Blackfish in Truro.
Santamonica: Lewes is quite different than the cape. There is something about the configuration of the land, especially on the outer cape, and the light is so amazing, why so many artists have lived in Provincetwon for a long time now. Do check it out ( I love the Jersey Shore too. I love most beachy places if they are not filled with highrises!
Capecodshanty: was very unimpressed with PB's lunch last year so am not inclined for dinner. Is it actually good? They had tables open last night.The attitude is way too much for me, even sometimes at the bakery. I like Front Street and the Mews, but we stay away from the cape in summer, first it is wonderful at home then and hate the crowds. We reappear mid sept. Have spent many hours wandering the wellfleet galleries happily,used to go to Wellfleet every summer and stay near Indian Neck, and also eating at Mac's Shack, one of my two favorite eateries. , along with Blackfish in Truro.
Santamonica: Lewes is quite different than the cape. There is something about the configuration of the land, especially on the outer cape, and the light is so amazing, why so many artists have lived in Provincetwon for a long time now. Do check it out ( I love the Jersey Shore too. I love most beachy places if they are not filled with highrises!
May 1st, 2011, 02:54 PM
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Sounds great, looking forward to spending more time on the Cape in the near future. I love the PB Bakery, haven't eaten in the restaurant, but the bakery is wonderful. It makes you wonder why more people don't come and open up bakeries like the ones you find on every street corner in Paris and that are light years better than anything you can find locally.
And whales in the bay and at Herring Cove Beach! Now I want to get in the car and drive there tonight.
And whales in the bay and at Herring Cove Beach! Now I want to get in the car and drive there tonight.
May 1st, 2011, 06:36 PM
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jubilada, great report about our favourite place on earth. For years, we stayed at the Top Mast and then moved on to the Crow's Nest up the road. Even though we now have our cottage in Eastham - Truro remains our true love.
Great to hear that Napi's is back to its old self. It has been lack luster lately so we will try it again. For PB Boulangerie: get the Pain au Fromage. The lines and the lack of queue are annoying but very worth it if you get the cheezy bread. Not sure if you've gone to the Flying Fish Cafe in Wellfleet but it's very good for breakfast-lunch-dinner - casual, small menu but fresh ingredients.
Santimonica, we just spent a weekend at our friends' beach house in Rehoboth and whilst its definitely different than the Outer Cape, it is still beautiful. We're also lucky to have friends with beach houses in LBI and Cape May. For us it's "not the Cape" just as being on the Cape wouldn't be "their place" but we've been able to see different birds, topography, shells, waves, etc. Just being close to the water is what matters.
We'll be on the Cape on Thursday so hopefully some of the right whales will still be hanging around. And, hopefully we'll make it to a Cape GTG soon.
Great to hear that Napi's is back to its old self. It has been lack luster lately so we will try it again. For PB Boulangerie: get the Pain au Fromage. The lines and the lack of queue are annoying but very worth it if you get the cheezy bread. Not sure if you've gone to the Flying Fish Cafe in Wellfleet but it's very good for breakfast-lunch-dinner - casual, small menu but fresh ingredients.
Santimonica, we just spent a weekend at our friends' beach house in Rehoboth and whilst its definitely different than the Outer Cape, it is still beautiful. We're also lucky to have friends with beach houses in LBI and Cape May. For us it's "not the Cape" just as being on the Cape wouldn't be "their place" but we've been able to see different birds, topography, shells, waves, etc. Just being close to the water is what matters.
We'll be on the Cape on Thursday so hopefully some of the right whales will still be hanging around. And, hopefully we'll make it to a Cape GTG soon.
May 2nd, 2011, 02:15 AM
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Sounds like a perfect weekend with a bonus of seeing the whales. Spring is The Best time in New England! I'm going to check into that book, I think it's one on my state library downloadable books wish list.
May 2nd, 2011, 05:02 AM
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yk: the weather was perfect. Friday when we arrived it was 70 and then in the 60's Sat and about 60 Sunday. Sunny, breezy, capey! Thursday it had been pouring and 50 mile an hour winds, so we lucked out.
mvor: we love the pain au fromage, none when we were there. we did bring home a walnut raisin bread ( well, almost home. we ate most of it in the car.; ) we often think about crows nest for weekends, but this deal was too good to pass up. when we have two weeks we rent a cottage.
I used to love flying Fish, lat time not great. Maybe just an off day??
dfrostnh: I don't know if you have any interest in the Basques; if you do Kurlansky's book"A Basque History of the World" is really amazing.
Spring is second best time for me, fall is the winner. water is warm then!
mvor: we love the pain au fromage, none when we were there. we did bring home a walnut raisin bread ( well, almost home. we ate most of it in the car.; ) we often think about crows nest for weekends, but this deal was too good to pass up. when we have two weeks we rent a cottage.
I used to love flying Fish, lat time not great. Maybe just an off day??
dfrostnh: I don't know if you have any interest in the Basques; if you do Kurlansky's book"A Basque History of the World" is really amazing.
Spring is second best time for me, fall is the winner. water is warm then!
May 2nd, 2011, 11:30 AM
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jubilada, after years of going to Truro we just "found" F-Fish this year at the end of their season (Oct.). I'm not sure if they have a new owner - heard conflicting stories - but we've enjoyed it. Service was a little scattered the closer to the end of the season but I find that common on the Cape.
One good thing about the Crow's Nest is that it doesn't seem to have as many children staying there which isn't really an issue in the off-season. Your cottage is in a terrific location - enjoy!
Thanks for the tip on the right whales - we're keeping our fingers crossed that some will still be there on TR.
One good thing about the Crow's Nest is that it doesn't seem to have as many children staying there which isn't really an issue in the off-season. Your cottage is in a terrific location - enjoy!
Thanks for the tip on the right whales - we're keeping our fingers crossed that some will still be there on TR.
May 4th, 2011, 07:22 AM
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The Cape Cod National Seashore is celebrating its 50 anniversary this year. If the feds had not bought up most of the land on the ocean side in the late 50's and 60's, the outer cape would surely have lost the charm and serenity that make it so special. Imagine hotels, condos and large private developments up and down the eastern shore where the dunes and glorious beaches are open to us all. What a shame that would have been! Even our favorite place, the Fort Hill Area in Eastham, was subdivided into housing lots....saved in the nick of time by the National Seahsore!
