Hiking to the bottom of the Grand Canyon,

Old Oct 26th, 2002, 01:11 PM
  #21  
ALF
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We have hiked the S. Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails several times (in addition to less well-maintained trails). As mentioned above, the S. Kaibab Trail is shorter, steeper, and has no water. The Bright Angel is longer, gentler, and has water at Indian Gardens. There is a connecting Tonto Trail between these two trails along the top edge of the lower canyon (meeting the Bright Angel near Indian Gardens). Both South Rim trails meet near the Colorado River, near Phantom Ranch.

You might want to consider descending the Kaibab to the Tonto Platform, crossing over to the Bright Angel, then ascending back to the Rim. A shorter hike would be to descend the Bright Angel to Indian Gardens, then return back up the same way. Even in April, it will be hot down there. One option is to head down before sunrise, then reach Indian Gardens before noon. Relax, have lunch, read a book and take a nap, then begin the ascent in the late afternoon as temperatures start to drop. You won't reach the Rim 'till late in the evening, but you will have experienced a spectacular sunrise and sunset along the way, and missed out on hiking in the heat. We have done this, going all the way to the bottom, but it is about 17 miles round trip, and I wouldn't suggest trying that with a 10-year old, unless he is 'super-hiker'!

I will also tell you that my wife and I once planned to take the Kaibab-Tonto-Bright Angel route, but when we got to the turnoff, I convinced her to go on down to the bottom, then climb all the way out. She didn't speak to me for the next 3 days, and hasn't really forgivem me, even though it is now 20 years ago!
 
Old Oct 26th, 2002, 01:14 PM
  #22  
nina
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Yes OO, great minds thin alike! We went 2 weekends ago, when it was very, very soggy. Monsoon weather the whole weekend. Still loved the Ocean Drive and having drinks at the Cliff House (or Lodge), anyway it was the place you recommended for lunch, with a nice fire going. There was also some sort of costume party going on at the time which was quite a hoot.

It was too wet to do the cliff walk, but we toured a couple of mansion tours, The Breakers and Rosecliff. I'm going back nest week with my mom and the boys since they sounded so interested in the mansions and the kids have a few days off of school. If it's nice we'll try the cliff walk again.
 
Old Oct 26th, 2002, 01:14 PM
  #23  
nina
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Yes OO, great minds think alike! We went 2 weekends ago, when it was very, very soggy. Monsoon weather the whole weekend. Still loved the Ocean Drive and having drinks at the Cliff House (or Lodge), anyway it was the place you recommended for lunch, with a nice fire going. There was also some sort of costume party going on at the time which was quite a hoot.

It was too wet to do the cliff walk, but we toured a couple of mansion tours, The Breakers and Rosecliff. I'm going back nest week with my mom and the boys since they sounded so interested in the mansions and the kids have a few days off of school. If it's nice we'll try the cliff walk again.
 
Old Oct 26th, 2002, 01:56 PM
  #24  
OO
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Alf--that sounds like a great trip, doing the loop. Now you all have me re-thinking Thanksgiving. We hadn't planned on doing the canyon again, and have based ourselves in a cabin in Flagstaff for 4 days doing day hikes around there, but...but... I'd hoped to do Canyon de Chelly, but it now appears as if it might be too far from Flagstaff. The Kaibab/Bright Angel loop sure sounds inviting! If I only understood what our son's problem was. I tried to convince him to see a dr after he got home, but you know how that goes. He was OK in Zion and Bryce last year. Wish I'd been with you when you talked your wife into going to the bottom, Alf!! Question about heading in before sunrise: did you go with flashlights or wasn't it pitch black?

Nina...I was worried that it rained on you. Too bad! Your Mom will love it so it's nice that you get to go back. Glad you got to Castle Hill. After we talked, I thought I'd send the GM an email telling about our two great luncheon experiences there, and what nice memories they had made (it was that special). So much of the time the only feedback they get is negative. Anyway, I heard nothing back but wasn't expecting to at all, then about 4 days later we received a snail mail letter on nice stationery, thanking me for the email and asking me to contact him directly to handle our reservations should we return to the area. I was so impressed with an honest-to-goodness paper letter, and my husband too....so now he's decided it's something he'll do more of as well. It really made an impression. gt; I'll keep my fingers crossed for better weather for you (and one of my friends who is doing the NY marathon next weekend).

I'm not even going to ask you about the hotel! It *was* walking distance though, wasn't it.

I apologize for the personal side of this all. Too bad we can't post email addresses.

Do a trip report when you return from this Grand Canyon trip, OK? I'll be interested in hearing what you did..if you hiked or rode etc, and which trails.
 
Old Oct 26th, 2002, 03:00 PM
  #25  
nina
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Oh right, It was Castle Hill! Loved that place. When we go back we'll stay there.

The hotel was, well it wasn't one of the flagship properties, but it was free, so I'm not complaining (faster free nights you know). The Stanhope we stayed at in Manhattan last month was fabulous though.

We're close enough to Newport to do a daytrip - 2 and a half hours, so if the weather doesn't cooperate, we'll just reschedule. Anyway as always, you gave great advice, so I know your tips on the GC will be right on the money as well. Thanks, and I will post a report, but it will be sometime coming (April is a long way off).
 
Old Oct 27th, 2002, 12:29 PM
  #26  
ALF
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When we did the Kaibab-Tonto-Bright Angel route, we did take flashlights, but we didn't need them going down. Coming back out, we did use flashlights near the Rim. I would certainly be on the safe side and have them with you. If nothing else, it will prevent you from stepping into a pile of mulesh*t or a puddle of mulep*ss. I swear, every mule in the line relieves itself in exactly the same spot.

Just one more thing; this route isn't exactly a loop. The S. Kaibab and Bright Angel trailheads are separated by several miles on the Rim. You will need to take a shuttlebus or hitch a ride to get back to your car.
 
Old Oct 27th, 2002, 01:00 PM
  #27  
xxx
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Nina, I know you've already gotten a lot of good advice so I'll just add this. I hiked the Bright Angel Trail several years ago and it was brutal. I am in pretty good shape (I teach aerobics, run, and lift weights) and it was tough for me. Good luck and have fun!
 
Old Oct 27th, 2002, 03:25 PM
  #28  
OO
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xxx, how far down did you go and back in a day?

This is not written to put anyone down, nor to build anyone up. I simply don't want people to rule this hike out for fear they can't do it. It is too wonderful an experience. You do not have to be in outstanding condition, IMHO, to do a portion of it with ease, and the most difficult portion is the upper section.

Our daugther runs when it isn't too hot (Phoenix, so you know how much running time that leaves), and does yoga, but otherwise, does not train. Our s-i-l does nothing. They are both 30 and are comfortable with the hike in and out, 2 days, with packs.

My husband and I have only been as far down as Indian Gardens, 4.5 miles 1 way, going down and back in 6 about hrs at a pace that was enjoyable. My husband runs about 10 miles a week, Saturday and Sunday and otherwise does nothing. I run 24 miles a week (4 days), do step aerobics and body pump--choreographed weight classes. My description of Bright Angel would be, "nice hike", but not difficult. I posed the question to him just now and his response was "moderate", BUT, we are both less than 6 months shy of our 60th birthdays!

I wouldn't want to mislead people into attempting a hike beyond their capabilities, but neither would I want to discourage people from considering a nice long hike into the canyon and out on the same day, or down one day and out the next.

Sometimes I think there's another factor in play here...our son for instance, who did have trouble--young, in pretty good shape, but only weight training, yet truly had a problem. Then we saw others carrying too much weight (and I'm not talking about packs) who seemed to have little difficulty.

I'd hate for people to go beyond their comfort range because of anything I said, but I'd also hate to see people miss out on a terrific experience for fear they just weren't conditioned enough to be able to handle it. After all, despite what my husband and I do to stay in shape, we border on being considered, "old folk"!

 
Old Oct 27th, 2002, 04:11 PM
  #29  
xxx
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OO, we did it in two days. We hiked to the bottom the first day, camped, then hiked out the next day.
 
Old Oct 27th, 2002, 06:22 PM
  #30  
OO
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xxx, Was it summer or extremely hot? That could be the difference. Our hike was in November, probably in the 50's, but as a runner in FL, I know there's a huge difference in the perceived exertion in a humid 90 degree run and one where it's 70, or even 80, with little or no humidity.
 
Old Oct 28th, 2002, 08:11 AM
  #31  
xxx
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OO, it was in August and extremely hot (the sun bouncing off the canyon walls made it 100+ degrees). We also had about 40 pounds of gear each. Going down wasn't nearly as bad as coming back up.
 
Old Oct 28th, 2002, 10:29 AM
  #32  
plummie
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We hiked the canyon 19 years ago with a 10 year old and a 13 year old. We (parents) were 44 years old and not in particularly good shape. Hiked down S. Kaibab, stayed overnight at Phantom Ranch and hiked up Bright Angel the next day. Bright Angel was a piece of cake compared to S. Kaibab. Did it in August and it was pretty warm on Kaibab, but the kids loved it and still talk about it. The adults were pretty worn out, but it certainly was a memorable experience. Is there a waiting list for Phantom Ranch? That would certainly be easier.
 
Old Oct 28th, 2002, 10:54 AM
  #33  
nina
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No waiting lists, which reminds me, it's time for my daily call to Xanterra to see if anyone cancelled!
 
Old Oct 28th, 2002, 10:56 AM
  #34  
nina
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Plummie, since your children were the same ages ours are now, what other things were memorable or enjoyable for the kids during your trip? Thanks.
 
Old Oct 28th, 2002, 01:50 PM
  #35  
plummie
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Nina - I think they really liked the challenge of the hike as much as the scenery, although I think they were fairly impressed (or as impressed as kids that age ever are) by the wonderful views. My daughter was 13, son was 10. They decided the mule riders were sissies, incapable of doing the canyon on foot. My son was fascinated by the suspension bridge over the river. We had tried to get them to read about the Powell expedition before the trip - not sure how much they finished. They enjoyed a campfire ranger talk the night before we hiked down. We saw a herd of deer near Phantom Ranch as we were leaving to start the climb back up, and they were impressed by that. Be sure to carry plenty of water. My husband was the main water carrier-had 3 quarts per person, but at least it got lighter as we drank. We did the hike in August so April should be easier. No water available on the way down on Kaibab. Coming back up Bright Angel, plenty of water at Indian Gardens and water and shade at a couple of other spots above there. You may want to check and see if that is still the case. The only tough part of Bright Angel is at the top, where the trail switches back and forth and the altitude starts to hit you. My kids saw a lot that summer. We "did" the Southwest for about a month. Carlsbad Caverns, Juarez bullfight, Durango-Silverton train, Mesa Verde, Canyon de Chelle, Petrified Forest, Disneyland, Zion and Arches, etc. but the Grand Canyon experience seemed to stick with them. In the Canyon area, we also visited Sunset Crater and Wupatki National Monuments, and I recall they were interested in both places. If you wind up camping but want to eat any meals at Phantom Ranch, be sure to reserve. There is a snack bar open to everyone, but some French campers tried to get coffee in the ranch's dining room and were turned away. The snack bar wasn't open yet.
Have a great trip!
 
Old Oct 28th, 2002, 03:15 PM
  #36  
suzanne
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Nina - Sunset Crater and the Wupatki National Monument were the lava field and the Indian ruins I mentioned I had visited in the other thread you started. These are on the way from Phoenix to the G.C. Your kids with think these are pretty cool!
 
Old Oct 28th, 2002, 03:41 PM
  #37  
nina
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Thanks for all the great info everyone. I'm taking notes...
 
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