Hawaii (finally)

Old Jan 20th, 2012, 07:45 AM
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Hawaii (finally)

This is a delayed trip report on Hawaii, delayed because immediately on our return we sold a house and moved across the country. But I am prompted to go ahead having just read the book and seen the film "The Descendants" plus a book entitled "Unfamiliar Fishes" where author Sarah Vowell relates history and U. S. involvment in the Sandwich Islands. In particular she is critical of missionaries imposing their views but also realizes changes were bound to happen with naval exploration and whaling. There is an issue of preserving culture in Hawaii today amidst big changes.

Anyway, our trip was an Road Scholar/Elderhostel program "Tropical Splendor: Exploring the Hawaiian Islands." Emphasis was on geology, volcanoes, history. This was in Spring of 2010, our first time in the Islands. We got to four islands by means of Pride of America cruise ship (only such sailing under the American flag)...and another reason for this report is to affirm the safety and comfort of the cruise ship...safety drill immediately after boarding and settling in. But arriving from the U. S. with old friends we first stayed Hawai'i Prince Hotel for two nights. By the way, we also faxed house sale contract papers!

First stop Bishop Museum built 1890 for a royal residence. We had a first person talk. King Kalakaus made an impression as he traveled around the world. At his death the monarch was overthrown and then came annexation by the U. S. still disputed by some islanders. Journalist Vowell remarks that we should mark 1898 as a time of American imperialism. Next climbing Puowaina Dr. to Punch Bowl to see the Nat'l Memorial Cemetery. Time for a little shopping at Ala Moana and stroll around Waikiki including dining.

Afternoon trip to the other side of Oahu, greener because of rainfall. Went to the Polynesian Cultural Center with various demonstrations of cultures from Tahiti, Tonga, Marquesian etc. and a canoe pageantry. Topped off with a luau in a large open dining area, then an evening show Breath of Life. This is a Mormon project, well done. Bus ride home on the winding roads along coast. We notice of course the multi cultural/racial mix in Hawaii, also many Japanese tourists. Debate whether tourism or military is main industry, agriculture a third.

DW had a birthday and got a shell necklace from program director. Morning lecture on volcanoes responsible for creating the island chain. Checked out of hotel and then a bus to Pearl Harbor and a launch out to the USS Arizona submerged below...movingly somber indeed. Then time to board the cruise ship. As we dined the ship set sail and we passed the skyline of Honolulu.

We were off Maui at sunrise. A beautiful day viewing the blue waves and mountains. Morning class on Hawaiian history from early settlements to later developments.
We were bussed to Iao Valley State Park with guide noting the many plants and trees in the valley with a river running down a ravine. This was the location of a fierce battle with the forces of King Kamehamela overcoming the Maui warriors. Nearby is Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens, a section of the park. Well ready for bed.

Early departure next day for Haleakala National Park to the south. The road was winding going up and up above the clouds to a visitors center at 9740 ft. I took a photo of the unusual sliversword in this barren landscape. This is the site of an active shield volcano. The road continued through the only remaining cane field and then higher through a ranch. At the peak we needed our jackets. Beautiful scenery landscape of black lava fields. Lunch was at Kula Sandalwoods, BBQ pork sandwich & salad. Back on the ship we had a evening show by comedy troupe.
(continued)
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Old Jan 20th, 2012, 10:08 AM
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On this day we are at Hilo on the Big Island and our guide is a volcanologist. Setting forth our bus goes up in a gradual climb through some farms and then a walk through the fascinating Thurston Lava Tube and rain forest. Brief stop at some roadside steam vents where you can feel the warm earth. At Halemaumau Crater overlook we noted the steamclouds rising. Jaggar Museum is a center for volcanic study with measuring devices to monitor ground activity. Then continued a drive around the rim to Kilauea Iki Crater and Puu Puai, site of a 1959 eruption. This was a short walk on a lava surface called Devestation Trail. At this overlook you can see that only bare ohia trees remain and now also some small flowers coming back.

Lunch along the way at Crater Rim Cafe and then a stop at Akatsuka orchid nursery that has over 1000 blooming orchids on display. I was fascinated by one valued at $20,000. Most were for sale in the $40 to $60 range. www.akatsukaorchid.com. Back on board prime roast beef for dinner and then piano bar music. We sailed past the active lava flow of Kilauea Crater with passengers on deck observing the bright orange flow. Overnight cruise to Kailua Kona.

Taking boat tenders ashore we were bused to Kaloko Cloud Forest. Here a professor and family have established a unique growth of all sorts of trees and plants, a real advocate for reforestation. There we enjoyed a sandwich lunch. Seems like a lack of moisture but actually there is a mist from clouds drifting from the sea. Down Palami Road and along the coast but high up to Pu'uhonua O Honaunau (Place of Refuge) National Historic Park. Once upon a time people might flee if breaking kapu (strict laws) to this place. Vowell's book describes these. So this was a safe haven. We walked a pathway and saw turtles. Also in this area Capt. Cook and his crew landed then later were killed. Going back along the route through Kealakekua and Honalo overlooking the Pacific. Here is an area noted for raising Kona coffee and we stopped for samples and gifts. Ship departed at dinnertime for Kauai.

In the morning after a good sleep we looked out at a mountain in Nawiliwili Harbor. This is the oldest and some have said most beautiful island. In "The Descendants" this is featured as a more pristine place. www.kauaigov.org Free day to explore Lihu'e and relax. We went to a museum...this island is where Capt. Cook first landed. Authentic Hawaiian arts and crafts in a gallery. Lunch at Dukes in Marriott overlooking the beach.

Early morning departure for Waimea Canyon, the spectacular canyon reminding one of the Grand Canyon though different. We studied Kauai's natural history. Once this island produced sugar but no more. We saw coffee farms, some corn fields. Up higher koa and eucalyptis trees. A stop at Koke Museum and visiting rain forest area of Kokee park. Quite an overlook coming down the mountain. Ship set sail about 2 p.m. as we were eating lunch. We began packing. Late afternoon cruised along Kauai's coastline and viewed the stunning cliffs, Kauai Na Pali. Also saw some whales. Farewell dinner ending with flan. And an evening of Hawaiian songs.

That's about it. Long flight home with our departure at 1:25. So in this trip we enjoyed these beautiful and lush volcanic islands. And would recommend a cruise ship as the best way to see several islands. As I saw "The Descendants" along with the story I revisited the lovely coastlines and beaches. Although the drama of this movie is about family relations it touches on the theme of how can we preserve natural beauty without erecting high rises and golf courses. Would love to discuss this but maybe it fits better in the Forum.
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Old Jan 20th, 2012, 04:04 PM
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What a good trip you had, learning so much. A friend recommended Elderhostel to me some years ago before the name change. She and her husband made several trips with them and just loved them. Hawaii is one of my favorite places. Glad you enjoyed it, too, and the movie, as I did.
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Old Jan 21st, 2012, 05:39 AM
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Thanks, carolyn...yes we did learn alot which is what Elderhostel now called Road Scholar is about. We've been on 35 such programs. But of course Hawaii is to just be enjoyed for scenic beauty. What have you especially liked about Hawaii? Favorite places anyone else?
Bill in Boston
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Old Jan 21st, 2012, 08:44 AM
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Thanks for the report. Sounds like a wonderful trip. (I loved Akatsuka Orchids -- and it seems no one ever mentions it.)

My favorite things in Hawaii are on Kauai: the Kalalau Lookout in Koke'e State Park; Waimea Canyon's "Canyon Trail"; Lumahai Beach; Hanalei Bay; the walking path past Kealia Beach ... Wait a minute. I'm there right now. It's time to enjoy these things -- not write about them!
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Old Jan 21st, 2012, 11:14 AM
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So you are there...but where? Fantastic places...and we didn't get to the beaches much.
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Old Jan 21st, 2012, 03:47 PM
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Someone else asked me what I like best about Hawaii, and I am hard put to answer. The scenery bowls me over, but I have a very tender spot for it because I lived there for a year when my young husband was transferred to Schofield from Korea after the war was over. Our daughter was born there. Of course, no one had any money so we spent our weekends at the beach with the other enlisted men and their wives.

I have been to the other three of the four major islands twice each, but my heart is in Oahu. I love walking toward the beach at Waikiki and seeing first the palm trees, then the beach, and then the ocean coming into view. I love driving around the island, up to Punchbowl Cemetery, over the Pali, hiking up Diamond Head, Iolani Palace, the King Kamehaha Statue, walking through the Moana and Royal Hawaiian Hotels (and wishing I had the money to stay there), and, not least, eating shave ice!
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Old Jan 21st, 2012, 03:50 PM
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Kamehameha Statue
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Old Jan 21st, 2012, 10:06 PM
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I'm on the island of bliss ... aka Kauai's North Shore ;-). Paradise.
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