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Old May 26th, 2008, 03:26 AM
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go_laura's New Mexico trip report

Part I

Author: go_laura
Date: 05/26/2008, 12:33 am

Many, many thanks to all of you who helped me with advice for this trip, which was absolutely wonderful.

I'll post it in pieces since it will be long, and I may or may not post all the pieces tonight...

We flew into Albuquerque last Saturday afternoon. Stayed at the Homewood Suites which was fine once we were there but we got awfully lost getting there...we were right there but didn't know which road the driveway was off of, so we took a guess, guessed wrong, and then it took a half hour to find our way back. The woman at the desk said that happened to people often and people come in very angry yelling at her...you would think this might lead them to post better directions on their website! Anyway, we didn't blame her, and the chocolate chip cookies upon arrival didn't hurt either

We went to the Isotopes game in the evening, lovely park and the Isotopes won big, tho' I must admit I was a bit too tired to completely appreciate.

Sunday morning breakfast was included at the hotel, and I thought it was pretty good for what it was. Then, thank you to those who posted answers for me about my need to find good walking sandals first thing! We went to Shoes on a Shoestring, and I got a pair of Teva's that are very comfy and worked just fine for the trip and are on my feet as I type. Since that delayed our starting out on the Turquoise Trail a bit, we decided to just stop any old place for lunch, and tho' I forgot to write down the name of it, we went to a fast food-ish type Mexican place not far from the shoe store. It was surprisingly good, much better than a Taco Bell type place, with fresh cilantro to put in my burrito, etc.

Then we headed for the Turquoise Trail...I wasn't really sure what to expect, didn't know if it would be all built up and touristy, and was pleased to discover it is mostly just very beautiful scenery. And we enjoyed stopping in Madrid with all of its galleries and leftover hippies...we talked to some friendly folks, and sat outside (very hot day, upper 80s!)cooling ourselves off with a lemonade.

Arrived in Santa Fe and found our way to our home for the week at the Campanilla Compound. I don't recall who recommended that one but it was perfect for our stay. For $175 a night (because it was before Memorial Day) we had a two story place with a large patio on the second floor, kiva fireplaces both in the living room and bedroom, a fully equipped kitchen, washer/dryer, two bathrooms (the one off the bedroom very large), and just a ten minute walk to the Plaza! Given the prices I'd seen of some of the hotels and inns near the Plaza, I felt very grateful we'd been led to this place. Not one complaint...well, maybe very small ones, my husband thought the bed could have been a little harder (I thought it was fine) and the nighttable by the bed was a little musty smelling. But those are barely worth mentioning, the place was so great.

After settling in, we walked over to the Plaza, by this time it was around 8PM, and the Ore House had samples out of their salsas and chips, and we were lured in by the charred tomato salsa. We thought dinner there was ok, not great. The service was fine.

On to the next day...
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Old May 26th, 2008, 03:27 AM
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Part II

Author: go_laura
Date: 05/26/2008, 12:44 am

I can't believe I'm only up to Monday, I better start leaving out some of the detail!

Lounged around at our place til late morning, and then went for breakfast at Pasquales...ok, I can't resist including detail after all! I never would have thought to put together the ingredients that were in my dish, but it sure worked...eggs over easy with peas, feta cheese, green chile, and sauteed bananas, over a tortilla...boy was that good!! DH wasn't as excited by his dish, forget what he had, he said it was fine but not extraordinary.

We then needed to do some grocery shopping for some fruit, coffee and tea (I sure wish our supermarkets here sold loose black tea like the one in Santa Fe!) and the few breakfasts we wouldn't have out. This being vacation, after shopping we once again spent some time just lounging around our place, and then I had just enough time to go down to the Plaza area to find a bookstore and pick up a couple reads for the week, before heading to Ten Thousand Waves for our appointment there with a hot tub and for a couples massage. Wow, that place is something! What a great way to start off our week...and on the way back to our place, we saw a beautiful sunset. Then we went to dinner at La Boca...I'll not list out what we had there unless someone wants me to, but both DH and I loved every single dish we had. The whole day basically felt like a wonderfully decadent embarrassment of riches.
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Old May 26th, 2008, 03:28 AM
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Part III

Author: go_laura
Date: 05/26/2008, 01:03 am

Tuesday we had breakfast at "home," then went into town to do the Santa Fe Historic Walking Tour. It was only ok, some interesting info, but I was disappointed that it didn't even take us into the Cathedral (which we did later on our own) and I didn't think our guide was all that knowledgeable...maybe she just didn't want to get into politics too much not knowing people's views, but a couple questions people asked really needed more political context...anyway, I could have done without this tour, but maybe it's different depending who you get as your guide.

We had lunch at The Shed, and had the famous mocha cake for dessert, worth every rave word anyone has ever uttered about it, imho. Thank goodness we got one to share though...that is one intense cake! On to some shopping at the portal of the Palace of the Governors, where I bought a bracelet, a hair barrette, and a bookmark.

While DH went to the library to check his emails and sports scores, I browsed some galleries. I was very taken with the Alan Houser (sp?) pieces and wished I'd known how much I enjoyed his work when we were on the Turqouise Trail, where there apparently is an outdoor sculpture gallery just off the Trail...ah well, 20/20 hindsight.

Coming out of gallery browsing, I followed my ears to some live music in the center of the Plaza, where I listened a while and danced a bit to an all female mariachi band who were heading to Europe in July to be in a competition...I wish them well!

Rested at home a bit, and then headed to a a very family oriented restaurant called Castro's that definitely had the biggest and best sopapillas of the whole trip, and the rest of the food was all good too, and we left with a bill for just $25 including two large entrees, a side dish, a beer, tax and tip!

We went back to town to amble a bit after all that food, listened out the door of La Fonda a bit to some jazz but the drums that night were a little too loud for my mood; instead we ended up hearing an acoustic guitar player/singer at El Paseo, right where our car was parked...we think it was a gay bar, but there weren't enough people to be sure! Certainly gay friendly, if not a gay bar, but then again, mabye that's any bar in Santa Fe? Whatever...the music was mellow and friendly, but I was tired, so we only stayed about a half hour before heading "home."

Wednesday was Tent Rocks day....more on that and the rest of the trip, tomorrow!
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Old May 26th, 2008, 03:29 AM
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Part IV

Author: go_laura
Date: 05/26/2008, 07:06 am

(I saw the response about cutting and pasting these all into one place, Cal, but when I tried to do it, it didn't let me cut. Sorry!)

So Wednesday we ate breakfast at "home" and went to Tent Rocks...I am so very grateful to all who posted about that being the highlight of their trips, as it certainly was one of ours as well, and we would have never known about it if not for folks here.

We did both trails...there were a couple parts of the one in the high trail that I found challenging, but do-able, and oh so worth it...the views were spectacular. But even for those who don't go up, just entering the beginning of that trail and being right in amongst those rock formations of millions of years - words seem inadequate.

One thing to add tho' for those who haven't been and are planning to go...if for any reason you don't plan to go up the higher trail, I highly recommend going into the beginning part of it rather than just doing the other trail. I'd been ill recently so wasn't sure if I'd be up to the higher trail, and had thought that if I didn't want to do that, I'd just do the lower one. I would have missed so much - I didn't realize that the views from the beginning of the higher trail (where it does not yet begin to climb) are much more spectacular. It's not a loop, so you'd just turn back at whatever point you feel the need.

At the top, we met a couple who were from a town less than a half hour away from ours in Delaware County, PA....go figure!

We took it very slowly and also took lots of pictures (unlike us, actually, but it was irresistible there)...so for us, this took more of the day than many who posted. I think we left Santa Fe about 9:30AM, and returned about 3:30.

We rested a while, then went to Bobcat Bites for burgers for dinner, and Harry's Roadhouse for pie for dessert. I'm not a big burger person so the former was more for DH, but I enjoyed sitting and chatting with people on the porch as we waited our turn for a table (I didn't realize how tiny the place would be, it was so cute! And the wait wasn't bad at all) and our waitress was very nice, and I look forward to trying a book recommendation of hers!

We shared two pieces of pie at Harry's...the chocolate cream was ok, but the strawberry rhubarb was the one that imho was really special.

Ok, it's a little embarrassing to keep reporting on this much eating, but delicious meals (and desserts when we have them) are definitely part of what we enjoy when traveling.

After all the food we once again needed to walk a bit, and this time headed to Canyon Road for that. We knew the galleries would be closed at that time, but we figured it would be fun to just look in windows and soak up the ambience, and it was.

I think I'll finish this in one more piece, a little later...had no idea I'd end up writing so much, but I guess those who are not into trip reports can skip right over
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Old May 26th, 2008, 10:01 AM
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Thank you, J62, for helping me out instead of just complaining about my doing it wrong. I've never posted a trip report before and really was mostly doing it as a way of thanking all those who helped me with great advice. I figured only people who frequent the New Mexico board would read it, and completely forgot that it would automatically get posted in the overall U.S. board too. Fwiw, this is a trip report of Santa Fe and surrounding area only, not the whole state of New Mexico, as we had a week but didn't want to pack that much in and do that much driving.

Anyway, on to the last part or two...

Thursday we had breakfast at Tecolete, and we both agreed that if we were staying any longer at all, we'd be back there, as our meals were fabulous. Afterward since Jackalope was right down the road we checked that out, but I wasn't in a shopping mood I guess and didn't feel taken with the place so we left pretty quickly. We thought we'd drive back to Artist/Hyde Park Rd. just past our place, where we'd seen such a beautiful sunset on Monday...and happened upon Fort Marcy Park, with its great views. The day was cold, windy, and drizzly tho', so although we'd been planning to go back to some Canyon Rd. galleries, especially the outdoor sculpture garden ones, we headed back home instead. Just in time...a big thunderstorm rolled in soon after we closed the door behind us. Time for that kiva fireplace instead, and I was actually glad for just the right time to use it.

By the time the weather improved, it was too late for most of what we'd thought to do, so we just did a little more walking around and then went to dinner at the Plaza Cafe - enjoyed our meals just fine. As we left we heard music starting up above us, so we went upstairs to the balcony of the Ore House to have a drink and listen to the music. Enjoyed the music and camaraderie, tho' the drink was quite weak for the price.

Friday we woke to more dark clouds and rain, and weren't sure if we should go ahead with our Taos plan, or not. We waited til the rain had mostly stopped and decided to start out on the high road to Chimayo and decide from there what to do. I was very moved at the Sanctuario there, by the depth of people's faith who left their canes and crutches behind...and wondered about how things went for them after.

We went to Leona's right there for burritos for lunch, and then to Ortega's where I enjoyed seeing the big looms and all the handwoven goods, found a couple presents for people there. We decided to head on the high road to Taos, tho' were a little disappointed that with the weather-caused late start to the day, we'd have to keep ourselves from making lots of little stops along the way to chat with people and look around.

Ah, again, what stunning views on this ride. Disappointment faded as we just enjoyed taking it in. When we arrived we headed right to Taos Pueblo, which I wrote about in my answer to someone's question about pueblos, last night. Gorgeous and a deep sense of history, very worth it imho despite the touristy aspects.

From there we drove to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge...how many times can I keep using the words amazing, stunning, gorgeous, beautiful....

We then briefly walked around the Taos Plaza even tho' all the shops were closed, just to see it...I didn't feel we'd missed much, was very glad we'd prioritized the pueblo and bridge, with our limited time.

And then, for the final evening of our trip, on the low road heading out of Taos, I looked in my rear view mirror and saw the clearest, biggest rainbow I've ever seen...I pulled over, we got out of the car, to discover it was actually a double rainbow. Just after we pulled over and got out, many others started doing the same....tears came to my eyes, at the sheer beauty, and also the beauty of so many people taking the time to stop and enjoy the gift that was before us.

Anticlimatic now to say where we had dinner, but it was at the Cowgirl back in Santa Fe. Way more food than I could eat, but yummy...and it gave us a chance to briefly see the Railyard area. I'd been to Santa Fe just once before, briefly and work related, in 2001, and had walked over to that area for the farmer's market, which at the time was there on Saturday morning. I did not remember there being galleries, shops and restaurants there then, so I don't know if I just forgot, or if it's changed dramatically since then.

The next day we had to leave...very happy with our trip and looking forward to exploring other parts of the southwest in the future.

As anyone who read my posts before the trip can tell, we took a good amount of advice from many of you - on lodging, dining, and activities, so thanks again. The trip was just the combo of relaxation, seeing beautiful views of nature, and exploring new areas, that we'd wanted.

THE END!
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Old May 26th, 2008, 10:09 AM
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So glad J62 did what I wanted to do. But I felt that since I wasn't part of her travel plans, I'd leave it up to someone else. Well done!

What a wonderful trip report go_laura! Thank you so much for sharing. Now that it has been condenced, I am sure it will help fellow travelers with their own plans.
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Old May 27th, 2008, 07:03 AM
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golaura, glad you had a great trip! I'm laughing with you on the food comments as we're the same -- all about the next meal! And by the way, at Pasquals, that was huevos motulenos with eggs over easy, peas, feta, chile verde and banana. Husband orders it every time. We make it at home now, too.

Sorry we didn't warn you about Ore House food. We like it for the patio with charred tomato salsa and 'rita only. Hopefully, Ten Thousand Waves made up for that. Fabulous place. And La Boca is a favorite. Always has been great food and atmosphere.

Really enjoyed reading your report.

BeachGirl
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Old May 27th, 2008, 05:47 PM
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Thanks for posting - it sounds like y'all had a wonderful trip!

Lee Ann
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Old May 29th, 2008, 05:07 PM
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Beachgirl, thanks for the specifics on that great breakfast, maybe I'll try to make it too! And I think you *had* actually said what you went to Ore House for, we were just tired and let ourselves be lured...no biggie, since we had so many other great meals. And we got some of the salsa to have back at our place all week long
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Old May 29th, 2008, 05:26 PM
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Really enjoyed your report, Laura. Somehow I feel full after reading it.
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